TwinOaks

Looks pretty good from what I can see in the pics, and the 'little things' only come with practice. The biggest thing I see is that the holster comes up a little high on the trigger guard. When you have the gun in the holster, you should be able to get a full firing grip on the weapon. If you don't, you'll end up having to adjust your grip after the draw or have a poor firing grip. This is an inconvenience in practice sessions or at the range, but could be catastrophic if you ever needed to draw for protection.

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=28291&st=0&p=177541&hl=thumb&fromsearch=1entry177541 And welcome to leatherworker.net.

I'm a Gemini, and we really aren't sure if it effects us or not.

I don't have the book, so I can't reference it, but I've learned that when tying a TH around anything, the key is to work with more cord / strap than you need and build the knot loosely. Leave plenty of slack in it to make sure everything lays "just so" then when you've finished the pattern, go back and start tightening it, chasing the slack out as you go. A little rubber cement on the covered object will also help keep things from rolling around.

A Project!!!! woo hoo! I'm low on things to do since I finished the Christmas orders and haven't been in to the shop to take new ones, so this is a welcome idea. I'll be designing for now and will build and post over the weekend.

Acrylics are most commonly used to paint the leather. You should thin it and slowly build it up in layers. If it's very thick, it WILL start cracking. Dye before painting or you'll change the color of the paint or possibly dissolve it. You can finish it with any of the acrylic finishes, but should consider spraying the finish on to avoid disturbing the paint.

If you really don't want it, send it to me! Unless it's really spongy/soft. If it's got those marks, and is still pretty firm, I'd be happy to take that. Before you decide that it's garbage because of the appearance, take a look at Kevin King's tute on wallet making and see what some UGLY hide can become.

....Or.....you could get a few bottles of Mop-n-glo, add water (1:4 water:mng) and dip it, then hang to dry. I really like the acrylics on the inside of the holster because the help keep moisture IN the leather, not on the gun, but I prefer other finishes for the outside of the holster. YMMV.

It's kinda strange that Hidepounder graciously asks for comments and critiques, yet only gets praise. Well, I finally found something to offer on the critique side of things!!!!! Bob, one of the stitches looks a little fat. Yep, a single stitch looks a little different from all the others....you're gonna have to pick up the slack. Either that, or it's just a perspective issue in the photo.......<shrug> Fantastic job as always, and your work really gives great examples of how good leather can look.

Another factor for consideration is the eventual nerve damage caused by LOTS of vibration. It tends to desensitize one's hands.....which is why there's always a market for "better" tools. For the tool in question, I could see it useful for a lot of beveling in straight runs, or perhaps a really large amount of backgrounding.....and that's about it. So much of what we do is in the details that speed is only acquired through practice. Now, something like a spring punch would, I think, be useful for single handed stamping.

As a 'thank you' for a friend in the horse business, I made a Christmas ornament by just rubbing in her horse's portrait on a scrap and cutting it into a circle. Then I got some more leather, made a few more things, found LW.net, joined up and have been hooked ever since. Learning as I go, I've absorbed as much knowledge as I can from other here willing to share. In return, I've shared what I know with those willing to listen. And always, always, try new things.

The spray on version is just a little easier to mis-apply. I snagged a couple of cans of the aerosol, and just spray directly onto a rag to rub in to the leather. When I use it for edges, I spray into a small portion cup and apply with brush or q-tip.

I haven't tried that specific product, but if it's anything like "edge-kote", just save the money and put it towards something else. I will note that the product does work, and that it makes a nice edge, but it doesn't last. It appears to be lacquer based and makes a hard shell of an edge......that unfortunately cracks and chips when flexed. For the best results, follow Hidepounder's tutorial, and do the job right the first time.

Be sure to set your computer to allow scripts and cookies. Occasionally your AV programs may stop the site from running scripts. At one point, due to some "false reporting" or some other goof-up, this site showed up as an "attack site" to FF, and Google. Just go into your options for the AV (windows defender?) and allow everything from this site.

Osborne, Gomph-Hackbarth, King, Dixon.....they're all good. Heed the words of experience and purchase a few less tools for a little more money. It's a lot easier than learning the wrong way because you're having to work against the tool. Things like non-repeatable impressions from geometric stamps just shouldn't happen. I've got a good handful of Craftools (outsourced models) that I'm ready to scrap or trade in for one or two good tools. Looking back....I could have purchased a few good ones up front and saved myself the headache of learning that the stamp(s) doesn't run straight.....but then I couldn't claim to have gained wisdom. Do a little more research on here and then spend towards the upper limit of your tool budget to get some QUALITY tools. It will make life much easier in the long run.

Fiebing's and Angelus are pretty much the two main names in spirit dyes.....at least, those are the ones that are the most available, and spoken of frequently on this forum. AFAIK, Peter uses spirit dyes and dilutes/thins them to get the shading he wants. The 'drying out' of the leather can and should be addressed in the conditioning phase of finishing the leather.

I picked up the little HF compressor that's made for the AB. It won't run tools, but it is VERY handy for transportation and using when you don't want the noise of a regular compressor. Just to help spread the knowledge, most name brand airbrushes have replaceable needles and nozzle tips. If you buy something like the Paasche VL kit, you get three which allows for a large range of spray patterns.