TwinOaks

Welcome to Leatherworker.net! You have found the best site on the entire internet! With the limited tools you did just fine. There are areas that can use improvement, but for a first project-- Nice! Have you decided on a color for it yet? If not (due to project funding), you can get a fabulous look on it with things you have around the house. One of the most attractive finishes is just plain ol' sunshine! You can use sand paper to round the edges and an old pair of jeans to burnish the edges. Using Olive Oil (personally, I like EVO) and a paper towel, give it two LIGHT coats of oil, then let it sit out in the sun for most of a day. The result is a nice golden tan. You can seal the leather with Mop-n-glo.

Oh, that. Sharper needle, or dampen the back side of the leather. That flesh side looks like it has been pasted (glued) to make a nicer looking back. You might try lightly spraying the back to soften up the glue before sewing. Also, if you aren't doing so, be sure to use a leather point needle (I'm not familiar with the needles on your machine- I use 794) so the needle slices through the leather instead of punching a hole in it.

Clean the hide with deglazer or alcohol, then spray on either spirit dye or oil dye. A lot will also depend on the tanning method for the bird. If it's actually "raw" ostrich skin, you are likely going to have a smelly mess on your hands. If it's chrome tanned or tawed, then you may not be able to dye it.

Part of it looks like a tension adjustment issue, part of it like needle deflection (the weaving around part). Double check your needle/thread compatibility, that's an awfully large hole on the top. Also check the seating of the needle to make sure it properly forms the loop. When the needle begins to lift, the thread should make a small loop for the hook to grab. If your hole is the wrong size or the needle is seated wrong, it can alter the loop size. If the loop is too small and is not grabbed by the hook, you get skipped stitches. If it's too large, then there's extra thread that the take up arm has to deal with before it ever starts properly tensioning the lock stitch. That can result in the bottom thread not being pulled into the hole all the way.

Marahaba, Fundi, welcome to Leatherworker.net!

If you are making holsters as part of your income, then NO, don't give away the design. If they want one of your holsters, you can give them a discount as forum members, though. If you make a good quality product, don't be afraid to ask people to pay for it. If the guy tells you that you have to do it, or that it's 'only right'......well, tell him how much leather, thread, and hardware you used. Then ask what he's contributed to "open source". I'm afraid that to say much more about it would violate LW's 'no politics' policy. You're idea of a DIY kit is a pretty good one, and worth pursuing. I recently had the manager of a FedEx ask if he could buy leather from me to make a Nook cover. I asked some questions and returned with ~2 sq. ft. of 4oz veg tan, uncut and in a roll. I priced it at a little above retail and had to restrain myself when he asked me where the sewing holes were, why it wasn't cut out in a pattern, and why it wasn't colored and finished. With that in mind, you'll probably want to include VERY SPECIFIC instructions.

Hi John and welcome to Leatherworker.net,and thanks for letting us know a little about you. Don't feel bad about computer skill levels, there's more than a few folks like you who are better with leather than a keyboard. We have a section on computer help (click me) that explains how to do most of the things you'll need/want on this forum. Or, you can just ask questions and we'll do our best to help you solve them. Re: signature line....... The signature line is the little bit of text at the end of the posts. On my posts, after the text block where all this is written there's a little section of gray text below it that reads: Mike D. Esse Quam Videri (Be rather than Seem) "Lazy spider lets dinner guest wreck home" "Teach what you know......Learn what you don't." That's my signature line, and the "edit signature line" button allows you to add your own "signature". That signature line shows up on every post you make.

Measurement from the snap to the fold should match the belt. Remember to add the thickness of the belt to the measurement. Just to allow for the leather thickness and the fold, belt thickness, and odd variables (like the belt not being an exact 1.5, or 2 inches) I usually add an extra 1/4 inch. When folded, that extra 1/8th inch isn't noticable and may save the loop strap from the scrap bin.

I think TomSwede did something like that with a bracer as well...might check his posts for related info.

Leather stretches. Or, instead of trying to account for the extra leather on the front, just subtract some from the back. When the edges line up, it'll curve.

I make up a 2 quart jar at a time, and wipe it on with a paper towel. You don't have to totally submerge it. Remember, it's a chemical reaction, so the strength of the 'roon is the determining factor.

Glue the pieces of leather together with the flesh sides facing each other before you form/mold the holster. You can do this easily by working up your pattern and just reversing it to the "other" side.

A CNC machine would be great, but I think most folks are using files and sanders and drills (okay, maybe a drill PRESS). Major manufactures, like Craftool, tend to have molds and cast the heads of the stamps, then braze on the handle, then chrome plate the whole thing. For the all stainless steel tools, a LOT of the work is done by hand.....which is why they cost upwards of $75 each. If you're talking about the maker's stamps, the Delrin rod stamps are typically designed on computer then laser cut. Some metal stamps may either be cast or milled.

Don't worry about "being new to this"....it just means that you don't have any bad habits to break!!!! You can buy a premade interior, but be aware that they tend to be a bit larger than what you're looking for (I think). I've used some Saderra lining leather from Springfield for interiors, but Calf in 2-3oz might be a better choice, as it's softer. For the exterior, I suggest using 2-3oz Calf, or at most 4oz 'regular' vegtan. Considering that it's a wallet and won't be seeing a lot of stress or be in a situation where strength is an issue, you could probably get away with the belly of a hide. Belly leather tends to be a small bit stretchier than say a shoulder or back. That would probably do well for the flexing the wallet will see. Call Springfield leather and tell them what you want to do- they are REALLY good about helping customers get the leather they need.

Thanks for the pics Monica, I was a little curious about whether the press would get a good roll or if it would split the tube. Your pic answers my question very well. I also agree that the setter tools are not always "top shelf", and the setter is more to blame than technique. Overall, it looks like a fantastic idea and a great use of ingenuity. Thanks for posting the idea.

Nice pictorial.....show the results?

Or design one of your own. Work up a paper or file folder mock up so you get your sizes right.

They're pretty good for multiple uses. Keep in mind that the design of the 'keeper' means you need to cover the prongs on back for a neat appearance, or risk those prongs scratching something. I pick mine up in smaller quantities from Hobby Lobby so I can get a variety of finishes on them. They're pretty strong for what they are, but the strength doesn't really compare to a quality snap. Like you said, they're good for keeping a light flap in place like on a cell phone holster or a purse/wallet.

One of the things I like to use is a keyring full of keys, and repeatedly slap the snot out of the strap to give it some "battle scars". I don't mean completely deface it, but a set of keys will give you a variety of dents, scrapes, dings, and divots that you'd find on a well used strap and do so in a random pattern. Shoot your dye with an airbrush so you can vary the intensity of the dyeing, antique it, finish it and Voila!

Loop and lanyard knot

A 'thank you' to the "heavies" who chimed in.

What kind of retail price are figuring for the belts?

ANY machine will make a tight consistent stitch if it's set up properly. You didn't specify that you wanted to avoid a Chinese machine, nor that you wanted to avoid "used". That really limits your options, but hey, if you've got several thousand dollars for an Adler, go for it. It will certainly do all that your asking....once set up for it. The 618 by Artisan, the Cobra class 18, Techsew 111, Sailrite 111, Consew 206, et al. are newer versions of the Singer 111.....and mostly made in Japan or China. As far as American made.....The only one I can think of that you can get as "new" is gonna be the Luberto's Classic. ...I called a while back and they're 7 grand. You *might* find a Tippmann Aerostitch in almost new condition, but I think they're out of production. I think it's time to call in some of the experts on machines.... Art.....Wiz......Ronnie.....Steve, y'all need to chime in here.

Though I didn't know the source (or that someone else had done it before) I stumbled across this idea myself a year or three ago. I've used this design for several pistols and the results were pretty good. The 'built-in' sight channel idea works better if you include a welt the thickness of the sight.

It looks like you might be setting the punch over your marks a little 'off kilter'. If that's the case, you can mark half the width of the punch on either side of the scribed center line so your edges line up. Or...you can try to find a set of self centering punches- they have a little spring loaded point in the center so you can line up exactly on the mark. These are also very useful for punching out washers. Or....get one of these: http://springfieldleather.com/store/product/5603/Punch%2CRotary%2CStitching-5-sizes/