TwinOaks

I really don't know what the fascination with a "BONE" folder is....it's a boning, creasing, and folding tool.....boning meaning molding to bring out details. You can make them out of pretty much anything that you can get a smooth finish and as fine a point as you want to use. The cheap plastic ones are just that- cheap. I made mine out of cocobola and included a tapered groove at the back end for slicking and burnishing. Before you start looking at trying to shape and treat leg bones from a cow, take a look at the tool and it's uses. I'm not so sure that using porous bone would do a good job without scratching the finish.. Bone may work fine on paper crafts, but leather tends to mar pretty easily. Maybe the idea of a "BONE" folder developed like this: Boning, creasing and folding tool Boning/folding tool Boning/folder bone/folder "Bone" folder Eric, thanks for posting the vids. I missed them, but video instruction is as close to 'classroom instruction' as a lot of new members can get. I'm sure they appreciated it. Looking forward to more opportunities like this.

You're here. Browse the "how do I do that" section, do a search for topics, and look at the pinned threads. Also, look specifically for "tutorial". We've got a lot of them, and most are pretty well presented.

Adding to what the top guys are telling you: You don't have to have multiple machines....but you'll WANT to. It's not about the machines' capabilities to penetrate leather, so much as it's about the machines' maximum thread sizes and the best match to the machines' designed functions. The big Cobra machines can certainly handle sewing small thin garment leather, but if it's set up for sewing harnesses, you'll have to change thread, needles, bobbin thread, tensions, and probably the speed to do garment work at anything resembling efficient. Likewise, you wouldn't expect singer 211 that's set up as a garment machine to perform well in the saddle skirt arena. That's why you'll want multiple machines- so you can set up the machine for an appropriate type of work and leave it there until needed. Also, go ahead and plan on getting a patching machine.....if you're gonna run a leather shop, you'll want it.

After 3 years, my batch decided that gray was all it was gonna do. I added a little vinegar and it seemed to refresh, but then it puttered out again. So, I just made a new batch for black things, and I'm using the old batch for gray. Incidentally, if you put some in a small jar for portability and leave a zinc coated dauber (the one's that come in a box w/ fiebings dye) the 'roon WILL eat the zinc and make the whole batch produce a sickly gray green color.

Try starting here: http://leatherworker...dex.php?act=idx You can also look at some other of Tom's bags as he made some improvements on the initial design. search function [ "Indy Bag" ], or look up the posts by Carr52. The bag may not be exactly what you're after, but it should give you an idea or two for construction techniques.

Outstanding work, Dave. Your work is an inspiration to a lot of members, and I gotta tell ya...you set the bar pretty high.

Some while ago, I picked up an aluminum "tool" briefcase from Harbor Freight to carry the bulk of my tools/equipment. I was working at a friend's shop on the weekend and had to transport basically everything. I still use it, too. It's got elastic holders over pouches, and a sizable main compartment. When you do get a large selection of tools, you may want to make your own toolbox.

Ditto what Tim said. Those ought to really please the customer.

Welcome to Leatherworker.net, from an Eagle! Some of the things you might use for projects other than the oven covers (which will require a lot of leather) are some watch straps (you add riveted loop on each side of the watch face and use a plain strap with snaps) , folder covers for patrol rosters (made like the book covers we used to make from grocery sacks), along with the things you've mentioned. If you've got a Tandy nearby, go and talk with the manager and see if he'll donate or discount material/supplies for the summer camp program. He knows that he'll probably see future sales from it, so at least go ask. The worst he can do is say 'No'. There's a really good picture tutorial for the 4 strand round braid (dog leash) at this website: http://myriam.dakotabraiding.com/Tutorials/Tutorials.html. Be sure to check out our "getting started" section, and the Paul Burnett School of Leather ornamentation that we have here.

For padding in cuffs and such, I get the foam "craft sheets" from Hobby Lobby. It's maaaaaybe 1/8th thick and pretty dense, but light. 3M adhesive spray holds it in place until it's stitched around...then it's pretty much not gonna move. It's sold in ~12x12 inch sheets, so it's not big enough to do the whole thing, but it's a good place to start when searching for a type of foam for padding. You could probably find it in rolls with a little bit of a search. I like it because it's firm enough to hold shape, but not too stiff. And, with the relatively thinness of it, there's really no problem just sewing right at the edge of it without having a big 'hump' in the leather.

Not as cheap as ordering from Angelus, but if you have a lot of gray to do, you might consider some exterior gray deck stain. I've got a set of boots that was recolored 10 years ago by over spray and they're STILL some gray left on them.

Also, when you upload pics, please use the 'standard email view' size of 800x600. For members using a workstation and a cable modem the large size is fine, but for us poor folks, who are using a 6 year old laptop and DSL, they're a bit oversized for the screen and take a few minutes to load. It's worse for folks using dial up.

Getting the stitch line a little closer to the outline of the gun would look better, and keep the gun in the exact position better. You'll find that with time, the leather will stretch a bit and allow some wiggle room to develop. The right side (first pic) drops lower than the left, which makes it look a little odd. For your corners, get something with a fixed radius, like a cup. Measure 'x' from the corner down each side and lay the round thing to where both marks are covered. Use that same measurement (and same round thing) on all corners and you'll have the same radius on each. The thread looks a bit thin for this application, but I'll presume you're working with what you've got. If you don't have access to some 277 or 207 (or thicker) pick up some waxed linen from Hobby Lobby or Michael's. I've tried the stuff from wally world, but the last two times I tried it, it was dry and brittle.....so I've stuck with HL and had no problems. It looks pretty good at 6 spi, and is sufficiently strong for IWB holsters.

Hey, I'm just happy that they've finally got a website. I've wanted to see the used machines for a long time, but am never able to call during normal business hours. Now I can see what's available, and determine if I wanna "abuse" the company's phone policy. Well....I'll be happier when the website is complete and we can see the available machines. But I can't complain, I haven't completed mine yet either.

Since you got it from a shoe leather supplier, most likely that is not veg-tan. It's probably chrome tan, or perhaps even oil tan leather. It would be good for pretty much anything that will see a lot of flexing, like a wallet back, or the like. It probably won't mold very well, either, so keep that in mind when you plan your project. ( i.e. not the best leather if you want to make a sheath or holster)

It could be that this is a holiday weekend, in the US, and people are spending time with friends and family, have gone on vacation, are enjoying the weather, tending to chores, or sleeping late after a long shift. It's pretty arrogant of you to think that ANYONE in this community owes you an immediate response. You posted this thread about disappointment a little over 13 hours after the initial post. Give it some time, as not all the members check this site every few hours.

Ray, when you posted "don't open if easily offended", I was expecting something like leather G-strings.....for men. You're right, the language certainly does change- with time and locale. Several of the titles you have may sort of make sense in British English, but are completely inane in American English......even more so in Southernese. I do have to ask, though, where, oh where, is your copy of "Justine......"?

Acetate. It's available, online, at several of out sponsors listed at the top of the page. http://springfieldleather.com/store/product/4487/Acetate/

Hi and welcome to Leatherworker.net!! We're glad you found us, and look forward to your posts.

I can't think of anything that Mike hasn't covered. hmmm....ah. Instead of neatsfoot oil, I rub in a coat of Aussie leather conditioner, and finish off with a dab of sno-seal (picked up @ Academy sports). The finish is absolutely black- the kind of black you find in patent leather items...the deep, hard to see the 'surface' kind of black. I use the Aussie conditioner instead of neatsfoot only on preference. On a side note: I found the shelf life of vinegaroon. Apparently after 4 years of sitting under the sink, it only turns stuff gray. The new batch has brewed for two weeks and performs as expected.

If you're cutting from hide, you just need to decide on the belt width.....if you don't have a side to cut from, call up Springfield and order a stirrup strap. Call them because on the phone you can tell them you want a really nice back on it. I've done this and got a 12-14oz strap with a back that was pretty much suede. If you want it lined....call them and tell them you want two. And split both of them to half the desired overall thickness... case, tool, dye, antique, seal, stitch, finish, and you're done.

DEEEEEP tooling on sole bends?