Wyowally

Thanks again, DonInReno! It is working really well. I replaced the driver's seat cover I made from Cordura a few years back. Machine and knee lifter all worked great on that. Now on to a couple other projects.

It has helped me several times to grab a good little LED light, tilt the head back with bobbin cover open, and actually watch what it does with needle, thread, material, timing, etc. If the hook point doesn't have the right size little loop of upper thread to go into, you're needing to adjust something.

My problems are solved, I did start another thread. I learned a lot here. The check spring range of motion and tension allow for some leeway, but can be fine tuned. For me anyway, if the check spring does not cycle smoothly without jerks and hopping up and down, then there is something wrong underneath causing those. Whatever it is creates a false increase in lower tension as well. There are variations in hooks and bobbin cases, for sure they are not all the same and must be compensated for. The last thing I learned before - this forum and the people here are the best!

It is working perfectly now! I followed the advice on the check spring thread and totally re-timed as advised, particularly in Uwe's excellent Consew 225 video. Timing is advanced the slightest amount over spec. I removed all four grubscrews that hold the hook driven and drive gears on, They were all flat-tipped, so I carefully ground a convex point on two of them, to go into the slots on the shafts. The screw that holds the needle bar setting had the slot buggered out so much that it was difficult to tighten. I ground a screwdriver to fit well enough and got it tight. The bar wasn't loose, but it had been getting pushed up a slight amount over time and just enough to mess things up. Particularly if the raised presser feet were so high that the needle bar would strike them when turning the handwheel! The stitches are the best I've gotten on 2-3 layers of upholstery vinyl. The checkspring isn't jerky anymore - timing had to be spot on, and the case opener had to let the thrread flow by easily when it came off the hook. Tension adjusting works consistently, either top or bottom - when I make a change now I see the results I expected. I had to tighten up the lower tension because of the previous wonky check spring action, snagging or whatever had made me loosen it up to compensate while I was having problems. I'm a little disappointed now I don't get to sew test seams on scraps anymore. Joking aside, this site and forum are the best and I appreciate all the help offered!!

Not finding the set screw, might have to put a point on mine....

I've posted a number of questions looking for training and advice as I have worked with this machine since April. The big guns here, and others, have kindly responded numerous times. I am grateful!! This 1956 year machine was in good shape mechanically as far as wear goes, but it has seen a lot of use, and from the slight buggering of the slots on most of the adjustment screws, several visits to shops or techs with ill- fitting screwdrivers have happened. I did get it sewing satisfactorily, yet was bothered by one issue - the upper thread check spring action was jerky, and actually appeared to have one semi-snag in the stitch cycle right when the upper thread was getting pulled past the gib plate. About then I posted a number of times on a thread focused on check spring action. Last night, I started from scratch with the hook removed and began the installation and timing process once more. I noted a couple things - my needle bar has no timing marks, and the slot on the needle bar screw was wallered out from many screwdrivers. Also, even though the two screws on the hook gear were different externally, one sort of rounded and the other flat on top, both were flat inside. I believe one should be pointed to stay in the groove on the hook shaft. I carefully went through the process. Last step was adjusting the case opener to allow the thread loop to pass as soon as it was pulled up to the opener finger. It stitched beautifully, smoother and quieter than ever, great top and bottom tension, check spring behaving like it should! Then, after about 18 inches of seam in two layer vinyl, it all went south. Something has moved or come slightly loose. First indicator was the top thread skipping a couple stitches. I ran out of time to investigate, but am confident I can pin it down. Those things I mentioned earlier are all suspect. Think I'll engrave my own timing marks on the needle bar, and pull the needle bar screw and work it over or replace it. I don't think it has decent bite. I want a pointed screw on the hook shaft gear also. The hook saddle clamps down fine. Need to make sure the big gear on the main shaft has proper screws and stays put as well. I have a new needle clamp and screw to install anyway. So knowing how it can do now, I'm hopeful I will get it back to that. To be continued.......

Apologies for kinda hijacking this thread. Think I'll start a new one.....

Constabulary, thanks for the effort and the idea. If I understood Witz and Uwe correctly, advancing the timing just a little might accomplish similar to a shorter rail. My hook looks identical to your right hand sample. Tip of the rail is involved here somehow, I believe.Wondering if bottom thread wants a gap between that tip and the squared end of the gib plate.

I'm continuing this thread because I'm trying to cure check spring bounce. Thinking I've narrowed it down to problemIs with the hook. In the bottom side pic, is the thread supposed to get under here where it could catch on that gib screw tip? The thread is hanging up on the corner of the gib plate (red arrow, other picture). Yellow line representing hung up thread. That opening at the corner is not quite as exposed as it is in the picture with it timed the way it is. Something seems to be holding the loop back so the thread goes to that corner, instead of moving freely. How/when do you decide the hook shaft bushing is worn? It can be adjusted up and down. Don't know if that's a factor in my problem or not. Thanks.

I think this might have some sort of aftermarket Brand X hook. It has no markings from Simanco or anyone else. I'm trying to figure out where the entire upper thread is at each stage after the hook catches the loop at the needle.

I can lower them. Think I was going for maximum lift, which I don't need. Thinking the 3/32" is priority over manual lift height.

Wiz and Uwe, I'll try those ideas. Might be able to get a picture today. Thanks again. Still wonder if that 3/32" rise from bdc should make the needle bar bump into the presser feet when they are raised. Mine does that, so I can't manually turn the wheel with the feet up!

Uwe, thanks again. Mine is snagging a little right at 2:25 in your video, like it is catching on the gib plate or something related.

Thanks Wiz! I'll try what you suggest about timing. With mine although I think I've done it all correctly, the needle bar/needle clamp will bump against the the presser feet when lifted manually. When I think I've got the needle 3/32" above bottom it does this. One other oddball thing - with the hook I've got, just about the time I get the checkspring jerk, the opening in the bobbin case hits the gap in the shuttle/hook and there's a little jump there, too. Don't know it they/re related. I'll keep playing and studying Uwe's videos.

Not sure if this is related, if not, apologies! My Singer 111w155 has a check spring that bounces twice while the arm is on the upstroke. First bounce is just a blip, then the second is more pronounced, right when the arm is close to finishing going up, check spring is pulled about max, and the upper thread has cleared the case opener finger. I have cleaned and checked the bobbin case tab, the opening for the tab in the needle plate, and the thread opening in the feed dogs. It is like something is snagging or adding tension to the upper thread. From my description, is there a check spring adjustment that may be out of whack?

People have been really helpful answering questions - thanks! Been practicing my backstitching - I am wondering at what point in the needle travel and the lift arm travel does the thread release best for back-stitching on most machines? On mine the arm is short of reaching top travel and the needle has just started down. Not sure that's correct. I've adjusted and maybe mal-adjusted everything and it really does work well. It also seems like changing needles and threads from 138/21 to 92/18 or 16 I have to adjust hook/needle clearance to get things just right.

Since I'm into backtacking w/o reverse, there's going to be a lot more foot lifting going on!

I've been working on my Singer, trying to make the knee lifter work more smoothly with less effort. I've seen some other brands which have some design and mechanical components that work really well. Friend has a Chandler that works beautifully. Mine came with a rod attached to the bellcrank at the top, but nothing at the bottom. I see being sold a part #508210 "rod roller which has a female threaded attachment. Did some of these machines have that attached? The lifter itself has a flat oval plate designed to push the machine's lifter rod up, but provide separation when tilting the machine head back. I'm thinking the roller was attached to lessen the friction between the two, as the tip of the machine rod needs to move on that plate slightly. Willing to try anything.

Wondering did this get resolved? Thread pulling out of the bobbin case properly sounds good. Different things happen when under power. Curious if stitching looks identical when turning the wheel by hand. Something is pulling that upper thread too much or making it turn loose. During the cycle, does the foot coming up against the presser foot spring, causing the spring to bend - also disengage the upper tension? If the upper tension mechanism is set so that it is touchy that could be kicking the discs loose. This is a pretty far out there possibility, but can happen.

Beautiful work, Elizabeth! Curious what paint and other products you used. I used Duplicolor wheel paint, satin. Constabulary - decals or not is a personal thing. I like to have minimal decals and don't care if they are perfect matches for what the factory did. I'm not doing a museum restore. Looks like this is Singer restore week here Constabulary, you're probably aware, but here we have people doing "de-badging" - removing all the bling, badges, extra anything on the exterior of their vehicles.

Decals on....

Don, I've been priming, painting, and decal setting. I didn't have the plugs, but have lot's of foam in different densities. That's what I used and it was easy to stuff in the holes. Almost done, a few things to go.

Don - the screws came out using my custom ground screwdriver tip - after soaking with my mixture of chemicals. The wheel also came off easily, tapping near the hub with a plastic body hammer. All I wanted to do was paint the inside of the wheel! I have used all the methods you outlined except the impact jack hammer you illustrated. One thing I use not mentioned is called an embossing heat gun. They are just a miniature heat gun, sort of like the hot air version of a mini torch and handy for small places. Thanks for following up. I'm getting ready to paint it. Trying to decide whether to go shiny black with decals or industrial wrinkley.

Uwe - the old parts book copy from Superior SM Co.. I'll try to attach it here. One of the military manuals also explains that models for a number of years are like mine and the adjustable eccentric was standard. The eccentrics are still sold and available. Then later Singer changed to the banana slot. Mine isn't a special version, just older than what what you've seen. The parts book illustration shows the unit pretty well. I'm still researching. Parts book is too big, won't attach.https://www.supsew.com/download/Singer/Singer 111W155.pdf

Singer part number 240744 as in this illustration from the Singer parts book: