Wyowally

I know, but the truth is you are becoming an expert on your machine in particular! Just so you know, in case you didn't, there are about 5 military manuals floating around with various editions. A couple of them are better than others. I built a redneck knee lifting apparatus that works great, but don't recommend it. Bob, Wiz, or someone recommended one on here quite a while ago. It was advertised for a Juki I believe, but worked out good. I do suggest getting rid of (if yours has it) the lifter piece that goes down from the machine that has a little flat oval at the tip. One way or another, a system with a roller right at that point works smoother with less effort.

I'm enjoying following your experience with the 111W155 because it is very much like my own last year. Won't overload you or the forum with details, as most of them were posted here anyway. Just want to say I love the machine, it has been really worth it, and more than meets my needs. I even repainted it and installed new decals, because it is not leaving here. My most perplexing questions involved the internal feed lifting eccentric - to the point I bought a new one (not needed!) just so I could understand what it does and how it is supposed to work. Have fun!

I only learned recently that one of the advantages of brushless motors is they make considerably more low rpm torque than the brushed ones. Even so, the brushed servo I have on my 111w155 with 45mm pulley works well enough for me in terms of power and low speed running. I'm not sure what my machine pulley size is compared to yours, but it looks similar. My parts stores had the size and series belt like Wiz mentioned to you. I felt like I was the resident current expert also after going through my machine, but I am not. There are a couple of them here who are lightyears beyond me. I only need to run my servo on the 3rd setting on the dial to get what I want. I have pondered a reducer but the good ones cost more than my servo!

Clockwise it must go. I had all my timings and relationships out of whack, probably 180 degrees or half of a cycle. Thought I was stuck in reverse when I knew I had no reverse! Hope you get it figured out.

If they started a forum for "first time attempts" yours would be one the better ones. I'm not sharing mine......

I had to learn about the timing adjustments underneath on the right side. On my back with extra lights to shine up in there. If I recall there is a pinch screw to loosen, then a screwdriver through an access hole on the back right side to rotate the screw freed up by the pinch screw. Our resident patcher expert ought to show up soon. Arrow 1 points to the pinch screw. Arrow 2 points at the nut that needs loosened. Then the screw can be turned from the back. Kind of an eccentric positioner if I remember right.

Almost every service manual I have shows very precise measurements for these settings. Some of the manufacturers made up some special tools and spacers, and they don't instruct us on anything except using those tools. I haven't been a jersey sewing person, more like Cordura and canvas for me. What I have seen when checking timing on the machines brought to me is needle eye-to-hook point being off. Sometimes that is hook rotation, but more often it is needle height. If the owner confesses about needle strikes or breakage I really suspect needle height. The little screws used to hold the needle bar in place are pretty wimpy on many machines - enough so I speculate about them being intentionally weak to help prevent damage from needle strikes.

I guess I'm not real concerned with scarf vs. no-scarf differences of 1/4 of a millimeter. I try to discover the adjustment procedure for each machine. I choose the needle I want to use and try it out, maybe watch the action and relationship hook to needle. I have not measured that gap in 4 or 5 years. I do use a tiny LED light and get where I can see things. I get the needle close without touching. It works. BTW, I helped a lady with a commercial long-arm quilting setup. That manufacturer in their own tuning videos, want the hook to just contact the needle so it makes a tick sound! Works for them, and it means to me that the hook just bumping isn't necessarily a bad thing. Nice info to know, but I will never use it.

If you're not familiar with our forum, you should know that you just heard from the recognized authority here for such things - Mr. Wizcrafts! No need to look further or wait for additional answers, IMHO.

The bobbin case opener is the common label in use for that j-hook shaped thingy. Page 15 in the USNavy manual (Wiz gave you in a link) describes exactly how I adjust it. Curious what manual you have Sugar? I just spent a half hour trying to find a number for the needle bar set screw (maybe a "clamping" screw) with no success yet. Many suppliers sell the needle bar with the thread guide and needle screw. Maybe one of the real experts can help.

Great answer, Wiz! Every screw on mine was buggered a little, so fixed them up. I'd only suggest that the needle clamp screw can also get worn to where getting it truly snug is not easy or obvious. Fix if possible or replace is the way to go - needles can slip down or get pulled down when tight in material - like 3/8" thick stuff. The "little hook" must be the hook-shaped bobbin case opener. Those manuals explain adjusting it too. Amazing that a machine with adjustments close to spot on will run for years without issues!

Cynthia, I acquired my 111W155 last spring, and posted a number of questions on here. Sometimes the answers take a day or two to show up, but I've gotten great advice. Some of the manuals from our armed services are pretty good. I have been part of a FB group "Vintage Industrial Sewing Machines". Several of those manuals are in their 'Files' section. Some of the best videos are on YT done by Uwe Grosse. He is also on this website. The Consew 225 is almost a direct clone and most of parts and adjustments are the same.The finger distance you asked about changes with rotation of the system, so needs to be adjusted accordingly. It is called the bobbin case opener lever. If you turn the handwheel towards you so that the square block the opener is screwed to has moved as far right as possible, with the screw loosened slightly you should be able to fit a couple thicknesses of paper right there where your arrow is pointing. Always turn it over by hand when adjusting this, you don't want it to bind up under power ever. Might need a little more or less adjustment after that. Hope that helps. The cog you asked about is confusing. It would help if you had a picture from a little farther out, but also the end view. The safety clutch is normally held tight to the shaft by one or two set screws, so it can't move to the side. The manuals and videos show that pretty well.

Maybe answered my questions this morning: One set screw is holding and looks like enough to do the job. The screw that locks the slide is sort of extra insurance, as mine doesn't want to move anyway. The dimple hole in the end may be a timing mark of some kind, but it would only show doing a complete assembly, it is hidden when all together. Placement on the driving shaft can be done by trial and error - too much one way or the other and one of the feet won't raise as much as the other. That should be done while adjusting the linkage travel of the rock shaft, either the pinch screw or the banana slot as all the lifting factors affect each other.

I'm still trying to figure out everything I don't know about the feed lifting eccentric on this 1956 model 111W155. It's not a showstopper, it's just bugging me. Machine is sewing pretty well, standard lift of both feet is about 5/16" when sewing. I took the liberty of copying a pic from another post showing the eccentric. I actually bought a replacement 240744 but not going to use it unless I just have to. The question for the group is: if the set screws that hold this on the driving shaft are loose, how is the eccentric set on the shaft? The picture has an arrow pointing to a shallow hole, and I'm thinking that has a purpose in timing and alignment. My original has one set screw remaining and the actual adjuster screw, but not the screw that locks the slide. Not sure if the screws on the new one are the same pitch. as they are allen head set screws and the originals were slotted. Added pic of my replacement, slightly different.

I am making rifle buttstock risers and covers for hunting rifles. I want to add an offside cartridge holder and have some examples and ideas. Out of all the ways to hold the actual cartridges, I have found this to be quite appealing. I can make and stitch the holder itself the way I want - I am looking for advice on creating the front panel as it shows in this picture - a case being produced in South Africa. To get even spacing, snugness and consistency looks to be a challenge. it appears each needs to be fitted for sure to the particular cartridge involved. Even the example has slightly crooked seams. I struggle with how wide to make the piece that forms the individual cartridge compartments. Thinking of taking a piece that is way overwidth the starting with the middle cartridge, form and stitch, then go left, right, left, right in order to do five. Wide open to suggestions!! Mine will have a flap coming over the top with some kind of closure, so falling out shouldn't be a problem.

Yes, you're correct. This came to me set up this way but not working. No history, just the evidence of previous use. The foot pressure was cranked all the way down and froze up - I think we know why. I won't go into all the evidence details, just wish the machine could talk. After a lot of work, I have it stitching belt leather and 1/4" scrap with a #21 leather needle and #138 thread - hand powered. I can tell that's all it will do unless connected to a robust power source. I think the effort to turn the balance wheel is a good measure of system efficiency and resistance. Previous user had actually dinged up the shuttle race trying to get the hook out the wrong way. Dings fixed. The row of stitches at the bottom, ignore the rest.

Wiz, thanks for the replies. I already had the manual (published 1919!) and have watched his video. He apparently made a shim in order to move the hook and race closer to the needle - the opposite of my issue with the hook kissing the needle scarf. Pretty creative on his part, and perhaps indicative that no real provision was made for adjusting hook-to-needle. I discovered that it was only the #25 needle it was touching. My #21's (Organ leather point) don't touch. Still wondering what the last operator was using it for, or how he was even able to use it. The little curved arm inserted above the upper tension was missing. The check spring was bent to a new shape. He was using - pre-wound bobbin spools with some strange thread. There was a bag tucked into the base with more of the same spools - I found I had to pull considerable thread off in order to fit in the bobbin case. Such are the adventures when taking on an older neglected machine last run by somebody who had (or chose) to just make do. I appreciate your comments, will let you know how this turns out.

The issue is the #24, #25 needle that needs to be used. Heavy thread. Those needles are fat enough the hook tip just ticks the scarf. There is an adjustment screw at the right end of the shuttle shaft, on the outside of the machine base. I think it is just for removing play, and doesn't provide for movement of the shaft at all.

Wanting to know the right way to adjust this, can't find any internet help so far..... The hook is barely striking the needle right now, but it is.

I think they just fell out of the needle clamp area when I removed both screws. I think someone (Bubba?) was trying to adjust the needle back-and-forth or left-right without knowing the right way. Made me smile! Thanks for the confirmation!

I'm pretty sure Bubba worked on this several times. Check out that lower tensioner! That's where the black washer came from between a hardware store nut and a larger rusty nut for a spacer - no spring. He just used the discs as a wheel to feed the upper tension.

I acquired an Adler 30-1 in rough shape. Got the needle head rebuilt almost. In the picture: little trapezoid pieces just below the bobbin - where do they go? Two pairs of tensioner discs - slightly different, which is which? Black fiber rubbery washer, where to? Tried to find videos and parts books that would illustrate tensioner, needlebar, etc., not much help out there. This has been worked on by several over the years, found one part with "Simanco" markings even. All advice appreciated!

Congrats on your initiative to get 'er done, Jd! Yep that's the sort of thing I do out here in nowhereland. And yep, Wizbit sounds great to me Wiz. Jd, I've found it useful, when I remember, to mark screw and gear positions in relation to shafts and other gears. When I remember being the key phrase.

As Wiz suggested, I find broken needles and needle bar movement go hand-in-hand. I even think some manufacturers made the needle bar setscrew a little on the wimpy side on purpose. Sort of like a shear pin protecting a heavy mechanical mechanism does. If the screw can't hang on when enough force hits the needle to break it, all the better. Re-setting timing is so basic that anyone involved in their own maintenance need to pick it up. IMHO like Wiz says. BTW, I discovered only a couple days ago the wisdom of another Wiz tidbit. I'd been fooling around with the total presser feet lift, trying to adjust so they'd both lift the same and raise pretty high. I was successful to the point of having the bottom of the needle bar strike one of the feet when they were manually raised all the way. Didn't realize it until I powered up - it moved my needle bar quite handlily!

If it has a servo it doesn't have a clutch. "Jam issue" needs more explanation. Jamming usually means thread jamming. That can be for a number of reasons, most of them only requiring adjustment. I would confirm the mid-70's date if possible. Value depends on real condition and your wants. If it were me I'd throw $300 at him.