ChuckBurrows

Did you do the baking soda and water wash? This will virtually eliminate the smell in no time at all as well bring the PH back into balance... Nicely done and the best part - no rub off....

The full name is botas de alas which translates to "winged boots". On the northern plains they were often called breed leggings since they were popular amongst the Metis (mixed bloods). Historically there is no single pattern - there are south west/Mexican/Californio styles as well as metis styles - all are variations on the same theme. Here is a basic pattern based on several original SW/Mexican botas: Some other patterns are included in the Museum of the Fur Trades Mountain Man Sketchbooks - one pair is similar to these worn by Tom Tobin.. and here is an original pair made of buckskin - the tooling was done by pressing with a heated plate: Also I I have found that adding buttons along the side helps immensely with the overall fit....

Of the three original claymore scabbards I've gotten first hand info on, the scabbard has two long metal "hooks" near the upper end (think muzzleloader pistol hooks - they are about four inches lonng and can be purchased fom muzzle loader supply houses. They can be attached to a pre-existing sheaths with a couple of wrap arpund straps.). The supposition (and following build) based on this is - the baldric/shoulder strap was then made with two matching leather loops or metal rings through which the scabbard hooks attached to the baldric. The claymore was then draw by lifting the sword with scabbard - it only takes the length of the hooks to clear it - then the scabbard was set/tossed to the side when the sword was in use. Simple and easy to build and use...... hope this helps////

I'd recommend pre-srtetching the hide first - dampen thoroughly with water and then stretch - I tack mine up on the side of the shed and leave for 48-72 hours. For cutting fringes I use a SHARP pair of scissors and "slide" them rather than cutting

You're welcome and thank you and did you get my PM in answer to yours???

Luke - as noted they go way back - FWIW here's a circa 1840 sheath for your files:

You can add my site to the list if you like... Chuck Burrows aka Wild Rose Trading Co http://www.wrtcleather.com - custom Frontier Leather and Knives

rickey - once you get them and if you have any questions feel free to contact me......it's part of the deal...

here's one source - good folks to deal with - http://duncansoutdoor.com/customs.htm - use the link to email them for their current inventory

Here's a Sunday go to meeting rig or if you're a Texan a BB-Q rig.... The knife, hand-forged and built by the late Gib Guignard aka CactusForge, with a sheath by me, aka Wild Rose Trading = CactusRose 21 The knife in the sheath... View of entire rig - 1... View of rig view - 2... The belt only view - 1... The belt only view - 2... Here's one of the pistol the rig was built for... The rig was inspired by the fancy rigs worn by Texas Rangers in the 1920-30's. The owner didn't want that fancy though, so I came up with a carving pattern inspired by the carving on 18th Century American Long Rifles, built in Pennsylvania where the owner hails from. The holster, knife sheath, and the belt are all lined with calfskin and the rig is entirely handsewn. The metal throat on the sheath is nickel silver to match the knife's fittings and the small concho is Sterling silver. All parts are lightly aged....

A word of caution - I've been using this method - old timers in the USA called it vinegaroon - for better than 35 years and while this is a great stain there is an extra step that many folks don't use and should - that is one should neutralize, if you don't you can have problems later on with the leather disintegrating. To neutralize I mix 3 tablespoons of baking soda in a quart of warm water (it may be best to use distilled water depending n the quality of your tap water. Once dissolved saturate the leather well and then rinse with clear water. Let dry and while still damp add a coat or two of your favorite leather oil. Actually this is technically a reagent since the ferric acetate - the chemical name for iron mixed with vinegar which has acetic acid in it - reacts with the tannins and turns the leather black. You can also add a coat of strong brewed black tea first which will increase the tannins and help darken the reaction if need be. Nicest part - there is absolutely NO rub off! PS - for the iron you can use 00 or 000 steel wool - soak the steel wool in acetone first to degrease, let set for 5 minutes, then plop the steel wool in a heavy pan that has a cover - light the steel wool off with a propane torch - let burn for just a bit and then cover to put out the last of the flames. Or you can just use the steel wool after degreasing with acetone and let dry thoroughly then add to the vinegar. Using rusty iron/steel speeds the process up is all.