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ChuckBurrows

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Everything posted by ChuckBurrows

  1. Thanks all - these types are my real passion so it's nice to share As for a video on beading - I've got one in the pipeline for these type sheaths and that will include some basic beadwork and quillwork. It will probably be a while though before we even get it in the can. In the meantime Crazy Crow carries some beading videos that may be of help....
  2. The first one is a bear jawbone knife with an 8 1/8" handforged blade. These were used by the various Bear Societies of several Northern Plains tribes. This one is patterned after those circa 1850's and has a Plains Cree/Red River Metis style sheath with all the bells (literally!) and whistles...... The second one is a late 1840's-early 1850's Southern Plains style skinner/scalper with a 6 1/2" hand forged blade. The sheath has a pound beaded brain tan cover over a rawhide liner with twisted fringe, tin cones, and buffalo hair with feather fluff dangles - it was inspired by three original sheaths and a couple of original SW trade skinner/scalpers.
  3. A couple of ideas for you.......from one wild rose to another! More Views of both pieces can be seen here - Wild Goo # 11 & 12 These sheaths are both what are called a "butterfly" sheath - the handle section is a standard wrap style, while the blade section has seams and welts along both sides - when layed out flat they sort of look like a butterfly - thus the name. Any questions ask away......The knives are e-neps the Thailand version of the kukhri...
  4. Go to any carpet store and buy some felt carpet pad - they have it in 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2"
  5. VERY nicley done Bob! I like all of it.... FWIW - A note re stretchy leather: In the type of work I do I've used a lot of "stretchy" leathers such as buffalo (which I love), deer, and elk, and what I learned and do is to pre-stretch it. It takes a bit of extra work to do, but IMO it makes the leather a whole lot easier to work with in the long run and it also prevents post construction stretch. Another advantage to stretching is it can and usually will add 10-15% surface area albeit it also thins it a bit. To stretch it - I wet the hide thoroughly, squueze out the excess,and then hang it on the clothes line until it's tempered - you want it pretty much like you case your carving leather - damp through is best - not sopping wet. Once at the right temper I stretch it up on the side of my shed and leave it there for 48 hours if possible, but dry through will work, just not quite as well. I live it at 6500' in SW Colorado so drying in the sun works good. When dry it will be a bit stiff feeling, but as you work it, it will soften up, but you won't have near the stretch as with an unstreteched hide. Caveat: the above process may lighten the color a bit on the side facing the sun and as noted it will be a bit stiff when dry since you've rinsed some of the oils out, but it's easy to recolor if need be (I age everything I make so this is necessary anyway) and you can add a good conditioner to replace the oils.
  6. Glue three or four pieces of 8/10 oz or thicker together so that it is a 1/4" thicker than the spike. Drill a hole in the leather the diameter of the spike. Set the leather on a piece of poundo board just in case, put the concho in place and set it like any other cap rivet.....
  7. What HidePounder said! Since using this method for over the last 20+ years I've only had one belt sized wrong and still can't figure that one out
  8. ........heat speeds things up and very possibly the vinegar had a higher than normal acetic acid content/ Still while it can be speeded up I still prefer waiting longer even when the mix os apparently ready as the fumes off gas and you have less odor problems - with mine I like it when there is virtually no or no odor at all when you open the container - lack of odor also means that the acid is fully consumed.......I always have a replacement batch brewing container so there is never a lag time......
  9. Call Wickett & Craig - 1-800-826-6379 They currently have their 8/10 oz tooling dbl shoulders on sale for $50.00 - they average 12-14sq ft - just ask for them..... Actually with shoulders you will still have some belly on the far outer edges - the only way to get leather free of belly leather is buying backs which IMO are the very best for belts due to the stretch characteristics of leather......
  10. I repeat - if the leather is not turning dark black before adding oil or finish than add tannins i.e a strong black tea mix is cheap and works well, but their are other sources such as quebracho bark or oak bark. This seems to be more necessary with import hides than with either W & C or Herman Oak.... The tea can be added before or after applying the vinegar - I generally give my a leather a short soak in the tea, let the surface dry and than apply the vinegar black.......re-apply both if need be......Using rusty iron can also be a cause for the brownish tinge........ Vinegar blacking is NOT a dye - it is a chemical reagent and the colorization is due to the reaction between the ferric acetate (what you get by dissolving iron in acetic acid - in this case the vinegar) and the tannins in the leather.... The oiling and or top finish may "deepen" the color but that's no different than deepenin the color of natural leather with the same products. The reason for the leather seeming to be "finished" after the application is not due to forcing "tannins" to the surface, but rather due to "tightening" the surface grain.........In my 35+ years of using this a good top coat is still highly recommended.......
  11. Steve - thank you for your generous words and if I can offer any advice feel free to ask. And yes examining old originals is a special joy........ David - You're welcome and I for one look forward to seeing some beadwork. BTW - the German Tan sold by Crazy Crow is an excellent substitute for real braintan and iseconds are currently on sale at a much reduced price, especially if you have a business license and can thus order whole sale. I use a lot of it for cost effectiveness for thos customers who can't/won't pay the price for real braintan, but then again there is nothing exactly like good real braintan. As for the rifle build - it will be a while since I need to get caught up on the bills. I do have a 45 caliber percussion trade style rifle that I'm planning on gussying up Indian style with rawhide repairs, tacks, etc and then age the whole thing. I also plan on doing something similar to my smooth bores as well but probably not to the same degree as the trade rifle. Right now I'm catching up on past due orders, but will plan on taking some ITW pics........
  12. Sorry to be slow responding - got busy and lost track of where I posted this - too many forums too little time! Anyway glad ya'll enjoyed the view so to speak...........now to see if I can answer some questions... Howdy David - I just got me another flint fowler and have a rifle in the works.... Books - there are in fact several and I recommend perusing as many as possible but if I had to nail it down I'd say my two favorites are: The Technique of North American Indian Beadwork by Monte Smith A Beadwork Companion: A Step by Step Illustrated Workbook for Beading Projects by Jean Heinbuch You can also garner some info on the www.nativetech.org site http://www.nativetech.org/glasbead/glasbead.html to look at a bunch of original work: http://anthro.amnh.org/anthropology/databa...orth_public.htm http://www.nmai.si.edu/searchcollections/home.aspx http://www.splendidheritage.com/nindex.html For fur trade era work I also recommend the pre-1850 beadwork article by Allen Chronister in the Book of Buckskinning VIII For this period I use 8/0 or 10/0 beads and like the French or German Old Time Color beads from Crazy Crow Howdy Wyvern - not trying to cop out but that's not easy to do since there is no simple 1,2,3 method or is it a quick one - it all depends on the materials used (type of leather , etc.) and the "look" you want........ On this particular piece I used a series of methods: 1) Actual smoking 2) Staining with coffee and black walnut dye 3) Rubbing and buffing to show wear 4) Greasing - using a mix of bear oil (pure lard is a good substitute) and beeswax 5) Hanging out in the weather to age naturally - hot sun, wind, rain all add to the patina....also rubbing it down with dirt.... 7) Bead aging - sorry but I have to consider that a proprietary method since it's taken considerable time and effort to develop it and I'm the only one doing it at least professionally that I know of..... Time wise this took several weeks to achieve the look I got.......basically you want to age it by using pretty much the same materials and methods that would naturally age it but you are accelerating the wear and tear....... Also some folks elsewhere wanted to see the bag I retired (it didn't stay retired long - someone made me an offer I couldn't refuse! it's on it's way to a new home with a few changes to make the strap fit) I've carried this rig from SE Alaska to Northern Mexico, and from the West Coast to Chadron, NE - like my ole bod it's got lots of mileage. The horn is buffalo with a deer antler and wood plug - it is courtesy of a friend from one of the first buffalo taken in the early 1970's with a muzzle loader. The bag body is covered with mink that I trapped - the body design was inspired by the Mariano Modena bag, which I got to see and measure firsthand in 1974. The beaded flap was based on an original 1850's era Crow Shot Bag. The interior has two compartments. The whole thing is lined with lightweight cow hide. The small beaded piece on the back strap is for holding a cleaning jag and the cap horn (the same one shown above) is attached via a forged iron hook on the horn and a D-Ring on the bag. The flap "tie" is human hair - back in the day a long haired buddy of mine and I used to bet hair locks in our shooting contests. The silver Kachina I picked up on my first trip through the Southwest in 1965. The toggle on the back is a piece of buffalo bone from the same buffalo as the horn. While most of it is based on original pieces it is my own style. The bead size, pattern, etc. are based on the historical knowledge base of the early 1970's - we've learned a bit more since then about details. Still it is a pretty good piece, but would be historically more appropriate for the late 1840's and early 1850's rather than the 1820's and 30's. and for a bit of humor - here is Himself with the bag on (though it can't be seen well) back in 1974 - 35 years younger and 60 pounds lighter (I'm 6' and weighed 180 at the time....)- pic was taken in the Big Horn Mtns outside of Buffalo, Wyoming at the 1974 NMLRA western rendezvous...
  13. I never measure but 2-3 tablespoons to a quart of warm water - use warm water so it disolves.
  14. The baking soda rinse is an aid to turning it black - The "neutralizing" aspect is more for any residual odor than it is for acid reduction. If it is not black enough even after doing the baking soda dip (a quick one minute dip is all that is really needed - soak too long and you can get alkali burn which will damage the leather - ignore the bubbles) just repeat the entire procedure, but do it before the oil although I have successfully done it after oiling, but IMO it's better before since it's one less thing to go wrong, it's the reason I've never depended solely on the oil - for me the oil is to rejuvenate the leather not to turn it black, albeit that's a nice addition...... AGAIN........vinegaroon aka vinegar black is a technically a chemical reagent - it is NOT a true dye so NO MORDANTS are necessary - it is the reaction with the tannins in the leather that turns the leather black - the plus side is unlike true dyes there should be no ruboff and color fastness is good when done right. For instance Bree increased the tannin content with the bark pre-bath which increases the chemical reaction, thus you get a "better" initial black. You can also increase the reaction by adding tannins after the vinegar - it doesn't matter when it's applied, although in either case, before or after, the tannins and the vinegar black should be applied within a short while of each other. If you have a piece that did not turn a good black to begin with apply more tannins - I've used a plain ole STRONG black tea when needed - it's cheap and is available at your local super market - apply the tannins "tea", let it air dry for a moment the leather to rid itself of excess surface moisture, and then reapply the vinegar black or vice versa...... As Bree showed - yes you can - I usually dye after, but have cased the leather with the vinegar black and then tooled - just make sure to clean you tools afterwards.......
  15. Both of the following are great companies to deal with and I buy a lot of antler and other things like bones for my work....... www.hideandfur.com www.eidnesfurs.com
  16. Yes - I've succesfully used Fiebings leather dye - dye from the back side as well as front......... here's some cobra inlays dyed with Ox Blood color......
  17. With all due respect to Mr. Douglas, Mr. Main. Mr. Beard, Mr.Watt, and others who offer quality als and other tools to the trade, I basically agree with celticfury - been doing this craft for 48+ years and sharpening/polishing my cutting tools (as well as building/adapting others at times) has been part and parcel of the craft - but then again I'm also a knife maker and learned how to sharpen/polish/adapt/make my own blades in particular back when many/most of the fine tools we have offered today weren't quite so available........ FWIW - I bought my last two awl blades, Osbornes, about 20 years ago and sharpened/polished them at that time - it took all of 15-20 minutesper blade. I'm still using the first one with just some minor touch ups along the way with the other in reserve.....as for easing one's awl through tough leather, I use beeswax just like those who came before me did and taught me to do.......I have also had the chance over the years to use the awls from Mr. Douglas (I dearly love his rivet setting tools) and others - they are fine tools and if you do not have the skills or inclination to sharpen/polish them, than by all means take the plunge when/if you can........... As always different strokes...........
  18. Howdy Dan - sorry if I sounded a bit ppevis - I lost a good freind yesterday and was a bit in my cups when I replied. Any vinegar will work fine - myself I prefer apple cider vinegar because it smells good and is a good tonic for what ails you when mixed a tablespoon or two in a mug (beaker for our Brit Friends!) of hot water with some honey...........
  19. 1) there is ABSOLUTLEY no need for rusty metal - just plain non-stainless iron (plain od steel woold degreased works fine) is all that is needed - when used on wood rusty iron will turn it more red than brown on certain wooods such as maple, but on leather it has if anything an adverse effect when black is desired............ 2) Ferric sulfate is NOT just a weak form of ferric acetate - they are two completely different compounds. One could also say that ferric acetate is nothing more than a weaker solution of ferric nitrate - both of which I have used on wood, and on wood I prefer the FN, but I will NEVER use the ferric nitrate on leather since it takes a heat of over 300° F to off gas the nitrate which would ruin leather, whereas FA takes NO heat to off gas and leaves no residual problems when applied and "neutralized" properly (mostly the "neutralization", a poor choice of words perhaps, is for aiding in the darkening and removing any odor of which there is little if any when a FA batch is left to "cook" long enough. FWIW - I DO NOT not claim to be an expert by any means, but I'm still scratching my head over why folks are making this so "difficult". I started using this mix about 40 years ago on leather after finding mention of it in pre-1900 and older leather manuals - to make sure of what I was doing I consulted a professional chemist who had long term experience in the leather trade......... With all due respect to Mr. Chapman and others - What works on wood DOES NOT directly transfer to leather - and yes I read the link and have NEVER had the problems stated by some when making/using vinegar black. After much research I found that while FS may not effect your leather today or even tomorrow there is a VERY good reason that museums all over the world make all attempts possible to prevent sulphate/sulphur contamination in veg/bark tan leather......and yes your first mix will and should take two to three weeks minimum to be ready to use, but once ready it is just a matter of starting another batch so one never runs out.......like a good sourdough starter my "original" batch is now 15 years old........ Oh well - do as you will and good luck.............
  20. 1) see if you can find the book Spanish Leather by John W Waterer - I'd check for inter-library loan since it is out of print and VERY expensive. He also includes some Spanish leather in his book Leather Craftsmanship 2) DO a search for Spanish Colonial leather and other goods here's a pic of an early SC belt
  21. Nicely done rendition... FWIW - with the rotating snap retention device you've in fact pretty much recreated the old George Lawrence Company #120 aka the Elmer Keith model, which is nothing more than the TT model with the retention device added and a minor variation in the shape of the main seam. Here's a pic of an original uncarved EK model by GLCo with the retention device Don't know if you've seen it but one of Tom's original carved holsters along with one of his Colt SAA's with MOP grips is pictured in the book Peacemakers by R. L. Wilson - here's a pic of the holster only
  22. After a long spell of sickness I finally got back in the groove so to speak.......now I just have to catch up on a multitude of orders! I got me a Tom Stroh flintlock smoothbore ready to shoot and a flint Rocky Mtn rifle I'm building on, so after 36 years of packing the shooting bag and horn I made back in 1973, I figured it was time to retire the old ones and build me a new set.........first thing I've made myself in a number of years (sometimes being a full-time maker stinks ) The bag design, size, and decoration are based on the shot bags (one of the actual names used for such bags in the literature of the times - they were NOT called possibles bags - that was/is a different item all together!) seen in the artwork of Alfred J. Miller who went to the 1837 Mtn Man Rendezvous. The bag is 7 1/2" x 9 1/2" approximate........the body and strap are made from heavy brain tan that was not overly softened....the beadwork is typical Northern Plains style of the period - color choice and size was based on what was available per the trade lists and other documentation of the 1830's era.......bag is 7 1/2" x 91/2" approximate The horn is an original dated 1791 and later 1825 - I added the rawhide repairs to make it usable and added the beaded strap - it's on a separate strap, but buttons to the bag strap when I want to limit swing.... The back of the bag - the thong and buffalo bone toggle slip under the waist belt and keep the bag from swinging freely, yet allows the bag and horn to be easily removed without having to remove the belt - what documentation there is for the 1830 era has bags at waist height and not the real high under the arm carry - besides due to a shoulder injury the high carry just doesn't work for me..........You can also see the gusseted bottom which allows a bit more room for my big hands Inside - lined with bed/pillow ticking, also documented to time and place - it has a small inner pouch made from leather to hold greased patches (most likely use), balls, or whatever.... Some new and old accoutrements to go along with the new bag... Top row below the main horn - from left to right: Cap horn for when I carry my caplock rifle, shotgun, or C & B revolvers - made it in 1973.....originally a priming horn it turned a real nice mellow yellow naturally (I've primed from my main horn for years)..... Antelope horn powder measure re-enforced with buffalo rawhide - horn is the tip from the first Wyoming goat I ever took back in 1973. It tucks into a small pocket on the back of the front bag strap, but is attached to the horn in case I choose to carry teh horn without the bag or with another one. You can see it tucked into the "pouch" in the second pic from the top. "Medicine" Bottle aka what one carries his beaver scent in - re willow covered with deer rawhide Second Row Original Ely Bros cap box circa 1840 - I carry a couple of spare flints in it! An original powder/shot measurer circa 1840 - use it for my smoothbore Bottom Row Hand Forged turn screw out of a mid-1800's rake tine "Bag" knife - re-shaped from an original Shear Steel table knife made by Robert F. Mosley, Sheffield (circa 1850-60's? - the basic style is older though ) - the bone handle is reinforced with buffalo rawhide - this will eventually get mounted on the back of the bag with a rawhide sheath...... Hand Forged fire striker from a piece of old wagon spring found along the Oregon Trail near South Pass in 1974.... Anyway hope ya'll enjoy the look see.................
  23. Cheap black tea is one of the cheapest and easiest ways - make a VERY strong brew soak apply to the leather (get it WET) then apply the vinegar black......you can also apply the tea again afterwards if need be....... Then I recommend you use a quick bath of baking soda - 2 tablespoons to a quart of water is plenty - dunk it in the mix and hold for a minute or two at most or apply with a wet sponge.........then rinse with clear water.......This is not so much to neutralize acids, but rather to eliminate any residual smell (if you're mix is aged long enough - at least 2+ weeks and with enough iron added - then you will have little odor anyway - IMO one of the "mistakes" is see is using the mix before it's really ready to use) and to aid in darkening. With this mix of baking soda and water, possibility of alkali burn is virtually non-existent
  24. see if this will help......... http://www.wrtcleather.com/1-ckd/tutorials...therstitch.html
  25. www.buffalobrothers.net www.ijsinc.com
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