ChuckBurrows

Actually either the light or dark will work - just depends on the look you want - Asphaltum was added to the mix in the past ot get black thread. As for oil - you can or not - I have yet to find any real differnce between the two mixes and have been making my own for 40+ years......... another source for rosin is the Brewer's pitch sold by James Townsend and Sons......http://jas-townsend.com/product_info.php?products_id=373 a pound will last most folks a long time and can also be added to dubbin if you want to make your own blend similar to Montana Pitchblend for finishing.......

Whenever you get gray before oiling it generally means that there is a lack of tannins to react with the iron - to darken it prior to oiling (sometimes the oil will darken it enough but not always) use a brew of cold, strong black tea (ie. Liptons or what I use is the el cheapo Wally World brand). The tea can be applied either before or after the vinegar black is applied. Let dry and if need be re-apply both then oil.........

You can also dye Barbours or other linen thread with leather dye - it works great and the wax does not make it look funky....

It's American Bison aka buffalo - I got that from Colorado Leather Goods - they have a website........ FWIW - I too have a bad back situation (five ruptured discs altogether) and found that using a pony rather than a horse was better on my back than a full-sized horse. The pony works great on smaller stuff such as holsters, knifesheaths, etc. and I even hand sew my chaps using one. Whichecer pattern you use I think you will find the pony the better "deal" considering your situation.

Campbell- Bosworth: http://campbell-bosworth.com/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=linen - I have not used the less expensive Hungarian thread myself so cannot offer an opinion whereas I have used the Barbour's for close to 50 years..

JUst clean the snap off good with a bit of baking soda and water and then rinse with clean plain water - you should have no troubles at all - the Vinegar black when made right (it dissolves as much iron as possible before using) will be no more acidic than the leather itself...

....rinse with a mix of baking soda and warm water, about a 1/8 cup soda to a half gallon of water, dunk the piece if possible, let set for just a moment, and then rinse off well with clear water. While still damp apply a light coat or two of your favorite saddle oil. Once dry top coat as normal

Guess you didn't see LIke Hatley's post then - he suggested it to Ray in the first answer i.e. Post #2

Plus 1) Use the baking soda wash per my instructions that have been posted here 2) once it gets to the point it will no longer dissolve anymore iron open the container and let it "air" 3) Hang the finished goods in the sun with plenty of air when weather permits - if not able then hang in front of fan - any residual acid is highly volatile and the sun and/or air will speed the volatility.

With all due respect, but Fiebings Oil Dye per their MSDS does not include oil of any kind. It is an improved version of their standard spirit dye - even says that on their website. Why they called it Oil Dye I have no idea??? although many of us old timers did (and some still do) make our own real oil dye by adding some oil to the commercial dyes which does improve the absorbtion, but on the other hand can cause rub off problems if a good sealer is not used - as the oil dehydrates it "lifts" the dye pigment to the surface.

I've been using it for over 40 years on both my own gear as well as customers which has given me plenty of feedback. No on both questions as long as you treat it regularly like you do any other leather - keep it clean and condition it as needed. I almost always use a top coat - any of the regulars such as Tan Kote, Bag Kote, etc. work just fine.

These will get you started: http://www.wrtcleather.com/1-ckd/mexloop/_mexloop.html http://www.wrtcleather.com/1-ckd/tutorials/_leatherstitch.html http://www.wrtcleather.com/1-ckd/tutorials/_stitchpony.html scroll down to the sheaths section for other styles of sheaths: http://www.knivesby.com/knifemaking.html

FYI - ANY "modern" eagle parts (both gold and bald) are highly illegal to use by other than licensed American Indians so please do use either turkey of chicken bones/feathers. Big fines and jail time are normal if caught with eagle parts........ and yes I too hope your whistle works out. to see several originals check out - http://anthro.amnh.org/anthropology/databases/north_public/north_public.htm use whistle as the Search term and Plains for the USA regions........

You are most welcome and old saddlery catalogs are a great resource Cabin Creek has a bunch that are downloadable for a fee - also look on Ebay, etc. as well as doing an Internet search....... http://www.cabincreekcds.com/index.htm

The most common buckles used on western gun leather as to material and type/style will depend on when - the following is a general over view the dates are approximate: 1) pre-1865: styles: square or rectanglular center bar, single bar, and roller buckles were mot common. On fancier rigs, military style belt plates and buckles were used. material: brass, nickle plated brass, japanned iron 2) post-1865: styles: square or rectanglular center bar, single bar, and roller buckles with the addition of the famed California Clip Corner, usually made in nickle plated brass. This last style buckle was the most widely used by the mid to late 1870's on gunbelts by all makers. material: brass, nickle plated brass, japanned iron Manufacturers: while the US leather crafters did use some import buckles from England, by the late 1840-50's era when gunrigs first began to be widely worn, most hardware was being made here in the USA by companies such as North and Judd who began business in 1812. Post Civil War, American makers would predominante for various reason, including the fact that the Brits had aided and abetted the CSA during the war, which the US Gov't wasn't real happy about and at least for a while discourged Brit imports. To find out more on makers of hardware used by leather crafters during the period you will have to dig deep into the purchase records of the larger saddle/harness companies such as Main & Winchester, Meanea, etc. None of the general info books such as Packing Iron carry much of that detailed info. The Nat'l Cowboy & Western Heritage Museum ( http://nationalcowboymuseum.org/ )and the Buffalo Bill Historical Center ( http://old.bbhc.org/collections/bbhc/index.cfm?CFID=29649285&CFTOKEN=12749923 ) may also be able to provide info via their research depts. For more info on gunleather in general or examples check out those two sites as well as several others such as the Autry Museum and auction sites whihc specialize in old guns and gear such as Cowans, Butterfields, Greg Martin, and Gary Hendershott ( several of Hendershott's catalogs are via this link http://issuu.com/dreamedia/docs/catalog_148_comancheria ) Hope that helps......

In order to learn how-to make conchos from scratch you'll need to learn some jewelry making skills - there are books out there on the subject but a class may be a better idea......

Indian Jewelry Supply - http://www.ijsinc.com Rio Grande Jewelry Supply - http://www.riogrande.com/ Santa Fe Jewelry - http://www.sfjssantafe.com/ All three of the above carry the blanks or stock metals in sheet or wire, as well as the tools (dapping blocks, stamps, etc.) needed and lots of findings.........

1) for making vinegar black there is NO NEED to rust it. In fact rusty iron can be counterproductive when making blacking.The use of rusty iron comes from the wood workers who want redder tones when staining wood. 2) While I recommend that one remove the oil with all due respcect it is NOT absolutley necessary by any means - over the last 40+ years I have more than once produced a batch with steel wool straight out of the package without removing the oil or burning it first. It's the acetic acid, one of the strongest acids known to man, and the fumes from the acid that do the job of dissolving the iron.

I just posted two here in the Show Off section http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?app=forums&module=forums&section=findpost&pid=191459 http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?app=forums&module=forums&section=findpost&pid=191457 As for how-to make one - as noted above mi compadre, Tim Albert's (not Adams) book, is excellent and includes patterns as well as instructions and worth every penny: http://store.scurlockpublishing.com/recreatingthe18thcenturyhuntingpouchbytcalbert.aspx as a reference bool I recommend.... The Kentucky rifle hunting pouch, its contents and accoutrements as used by the frontiersman, hunter, and Indians York, Penn.: Madison Grant One question to ask your friend - what era does he want it for? Styles and construction varies over time and place.......they run from simple to complicated........

Plain old white vinegar full strength will 99% of the time kill and clean mold - wipe it on and lte dry then using a stiff natural bristle brush scrub down the leather to remove the dried mold. Re-apply/re-do if necessary and then condition the leather per normal

A more rustic style of shot pouch made of alum tawed sheepskin and lined with linen. The flap of the pouch is made from the leg section and the edge was left as skinned. The linen lining adds a bit of fringe to the outer edge while a single row of white and blue beads decorates the edge seam. In the center is an embroidered hunter’s star aka compass rose. At the top edge of the flap a bit of deer hair trim adds a bit of color. The 8” x 8” pouch body is double welted and that has been fringed. There are two real repairs on the body – one slip of the knife has been sewn together on the front and a braintan buckskin patch covers a small weak spot on the back. There's a leather divider inside making this essentially a two section pouch. The pouch strap is made of bark tan calf skin and includes a 1” antique roller buckle for making adjustments. Attached to the front of the strap is an 80 grn powder measure made from a deer leg bone section and partially covered with deer rawhide and linen thread wraps. On the back of the pouch is a strap with a bone toggle button that can be tucked under the waist belt or sash to keep the bag from swinging away from one’s body. The front flap is closed with a hand made antler slab button. The horn is an original SW Virginia horn (circa 1850’s?). I repaired the small cracks along the butt with a bit of pitch and then covered it over with deer rawhide. I then added an iron ring for the bark tan cowhide harness strap at both ends and can be used alone or attached to the patch strap via a couple of small braintan thongs. The horn can be used alone or attached to the patch strap via a couple of small braintan thongs. The horn strap is adjustable via the two braintan buckskin thongs on each end. The whole set was given a patina of age – used but not abused…………. All comments are welcome…..

The first mountain men came from the east and this set was inspired by those early trappers such as Forest Hancock and Joseph Dickson who went up the Missouri River in 1807 with John Colter, Thomas James who went west with the Lisa expedition, last but far from least Hoback, Reznor, and Edward Robinson who guided the Wilson Price Hunt Expedition of 1811 (Robinson is my kind of frontiersman - he was born in 1745, lost his hair in Kentucky, and his life in Rocky Mountains at age 66). The pouch is based on a pic of an original I found on line, but did not note where I got it – Oh Well! The whole set is intended to be my idea of what one of these earliest of mountaineers might have carried during those early years. My version is patterned after that original. It is made from alum tawed sheepskin (I love this stuff!) rather than cowhide like the original, but does have a dark blue plaid wool liner similar to the original. Size is 8.5" wide by 7.5" tall. It has a small exterior pocket for storing greased patches, and a short fringed welt. It has a brain tan buckskin repair along one edge seam, both inside and outside, an inner pocket of brain tan as a later addition, and the strap of bark tan cowhide harness leather is also intended to represent a later replacement - the adjustment buckle is a saddle buckle of the era. On the back is a strap with a bone button that can be tucked under the waist belt or sash to keep the bag from swinging away from one’s body. The flap is closed with a hand made domed brass button. The bit of beadwork is done with blue pound beads similar in color to many originals of the era and is intended to represent what one of the early mountaineers paramours may have added to “fancy” things up a bit – east meets west…. The horn is an original SW Virginia horn (circa 1850’s?) that I got in a trade. I repaired the small cracks along the butt with a bit of pitch and then covered it over with deer rawhide. I then added an iron ring for the bark tan cowhide harness strap at both ends and can be used alone or attached to the patch strap via a couple of small braintan thongs. The horn can be used alone or attached to the patch strap via a couple of small braintan thongs. The strap is adjustable via the two braintan buckskin thongs on each end. Mated up to the horn are a 70gr antler powder measure and a simple iron touchhole pick attached to the horn via a fine link iron chain, which came off some old (circa 1880’s) harness - the pick and measuer fit into a small pocket on the back of the bag's strap. The whole set was given a patina of age – used but not abused………….

A South Texas rig that went to Italy..... This gent wanted open toes and a bit short with an antique roller buckle..... here's the knife.... A drop loop leftie.... Another South Texas rig with a Montana variant on the left..... And a later period Ranger rig with shotgun shell and 45-70 loops

To do it "right" is not simple or a one step process - here's a start on how-to http://www.wrtcleather.com/1-ckd/tutorials/aging-leather-zurl.jpg

Along with the book recommended you can get authentic patterns from Will Ghormley. For online research take a look at the www.bbhc.org site http://old.bbhc.org/collections/bbhc/Search_cfm.cfm?method=byMake Also auction sites such as: Cowan's, Greg Martin, Butterfields and Gary Hendershott (http://www.garyhendershott.net/catalogs/132 catalogs #144 & 146 especially)