ChuckBurrows

so it's gouging o take into consideration cost of materials and labor - have you ever done a time cost analysis? It's called accounting and to cover one's costs (no one is talking about making a profit except those calling others gougers... as always I reckon opinions are like backsides... in over 40 years of doing custom leather and knife work I have NEVER had a customer complain about shipping costs - in fact many adda few bucks on top of my charge to cover hidden costs....

yes it can be done either way - include handling in the cost or into shipping and yes if you use a software and weight you are limited to including in the base price - when included in the price the handling fees are "hidden" - bottom line the final price is still the same and needs to be considered. Or as 50 Yr Leather mentioned you can average the shipping/handling costs..... and no not everyone includes hazmat fees in the price - I buy blackpowder, caps, and primers online for instance and most places the hazmat is an extra charge.....

one thing to remember - when buying from a business you are not just paying for the actual cost of shipping, but the cost of handling as well - any good business model MUST take into consideration the cost of packing materials as well as the labor otherwise it can kill you fast (I'm an ex-accountant) - not so much for a one man operation, but when you are shipping hundreds or thousands of orders it can become a major cost factor.

What size rivets are the finished product similar too in h comeriallin (#9, 12, etc) ?

Well FWIW I've used plain ole 70% isopropyl alcohol now for thinning dyes for over 50 years - never had a problem due to the added water, although recently I've gone to the 90% and thin with water to 70% - I was taught to always dampen first for better penetration anyway so for me it works for cleaning and deglazing I mix a quart of 90% with a cup of cheap lemon juice

For Buckskin (deer hide) the best prices will be found at: Colorado Leathergoods Moscow Hide and Fur Eidnes Fur All have websites...

You might also want to look up "dubbin" recipes.......

using a curved awl and needles the process is the same whether a cylinder or a flat surface - at least ways that's the way I was taught and have done so for 45+ years

I put out a how-to video on Frontier Holsters that may interest you http://www.amazon.com/Frontier-Holsters-Chuck-Burrows-DVD/dp/B002961O7Q

try using a good acrylic sealer - Mop and Glow can be found in the laundry section and should work fine....

Get a copy of the "Art of Handstitching Leather" it shows two methods of butting leather together and then sewing as long as the leather is thick enough. You can also overlap without added thickness by skiving both edges and then making a lap joint...

Camano - that is true of only one current brand (IIRC Fiebings) since the 1930's and based on the government specs most neatsfoot oil today is made mostly from rendered lard (per industry insiders) - still good stuff. As noted that it was the cold that caused the separation (typical of many types oil inlcuding olive). Also I learned along time ago that regular neatsfoot should be warmed to around 90°-110° for best use. I warm it in a pan on a cheap hot plate (or if the forge is going I just heat a piece of scrap and drop in the oil) and keep a cookie thermometer close for checking temp. Hope that helps

I have a couple of questions about Vinegaroon. 1. Can it be used over already dyed leather. Generally yes but again it only works on veg/bark tan leather

I've used both and the plastic seemed to hold up OK, but over the last 50+ years of pounding leather I prefer making my own from mostly deer antler tips or bone - on the tips you only really need to re-shape the tip to your desired design and I find the thicker grip nicer for holding.....

Most of my beads come from Crazy Crow - you want the 8/0 size which are technically pound (aka pony) beads for some good images of original beadwork I suggest these sites whihc will give some idea of the type work used: http://anthro.amnh.org/north http://www.splendidheritage.com/nindex.html For eastern style beadwork the standard method of sewing was the so-called applique stitch - for basic stitches see here: http://www.nativetech.org/glasbead/glasbead.html hope that helps and again if more help is needed let me know..

Dwight - I've been studying the subject of Indian symbology as it applies to beadwork for over 50 years and it boils down to what the maker wanted the pattern to "say" . There are some tribal symbols and in order to no more you would have to look up that tribe or talk to the elders (best way). The style of beading would most likely be floral for eastern tribes. If I can help in any other way let me know - beading is my life!

I've been using his bark tan (which is no more expensive than most others for quality leather - my last order fo shoulders was $5.90 s/ft) for some years now and in over 50 years of leather craft it's some of the finest leather I've worked with and FWIW - this leather comes from Portugal not Spain....excellent leather and excellent service

some sources for both linen and hemp webbing ----http://www.woodedhamlet.com/beltings_webbings/hemp_linen_webs.html http://www.najecki.com/repro/lace/Tapes.html

If you dampen the whole item LIGHTLY before dying then you will most often get a nice even dye job - the moisture helps open the pores allowing for better penetration (edges will at times be darker no matter what due to the porosity)

quick answer - yes I have done both wood and leather for over 50 years and have used leather dye extensively on all types of wood as do many gunstockers I know. Main thing apply, let dry, and then just like leather buff off the dry powder residue.....

Toluene will work for cleaning brushes...

I too am a knife and sheath maker and my favorite leather these days is the undyed bark tan shoulders or sides from RJF Leather - Roger is great to work with and the leather is some of the finest I've used in the last 55 years just give him a call ...http://www.rjfleather.com

I have a video available on making old time western holster which includes info on tooling - stamping and carving, etc. While specifically aimed at the old west style holsters the basics are the same no matter what - http://www.amazon.com/Frontier-Holsters-Chuck-Burrows-DVD/dp/B002961O7Q Once purchased you can email me with any questions as well....

Will's patterns are set up to use Tandy parts - here's a link to SB studs - http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/product/sam-browne-buttons-washers-1309-057.aspx

I got these two silver fox pelts in trade a few years with intentions for a future project, but just haven't had the time or inclinations so here they are for sale - they are both in excellent shape....silver fox was once considered to the nes plus ultra of furs and were highly prized.... WILD SILVER FOX PELT #1 OVERALL LENGTH: 51" TAIL LENGTH: 17" CONDITION: #1 Select - taxidermy quality cased and tanned wild caught silver fox pelt. This is a gorgeous extra thick prime winter pelt with face and legs with claws. Extra dark and heavily interspersed overall with grizzled silver fur. Use as a display, for making a full pelt mountain man/American Indian style hat, or .................? for larger images click on the links: http://www.wrtcleather.com/2-forsale/forsale-images/silver-fox-1-1.jpg http://www.wrtcleather.com/2-forsale/forsale-images/silver-fox-1-2.jpg Total Price: $195.00 USD includes Shipping & Insurance via USPS Priority Mail to USA only (due to the various International laws regarding the sale of furs I am selling this in the USA only). You must make sure that all local and state laws allow this purchase. Payment Method: please call 1-970-317-5592 to pay by Visa, MC, Postal Money Order, Cashiers Check, PayPal, or Western Union. WILD SILVER FOX PELT #2 OVERALL LENGTH: 51" TAIL LENGTH: 16" CONDITION: #1 Select - taxidermy quality cased and tanned wild caught silver fox pelt. This is a gorgeous extra thick prime winter pelt with face and legs with claws. Extra dark interspersed overall with grizzled silver fur. Use as a display, for making a full pelt mountain man/American Indian style hat, or ....................? for larger images click on the links: http://www.wrtcleather.com/2-forsale/forsale-images/silver-fox-2-1.jpg http://www.wrtcleather.com/2-forsale/forsale-images/silver-fox-2-2.jpg Total Price: $195.00 USD includes Shipping & Insurance via USPS Priority Mail to USA only (due to the various International laws regarding the sale of furs I am selling this in the USA only). You must make sure that all local and state laws allow this purchase. Payment Method: please call 1-970-317-5592 to pay by Visa, MC, Postal Money Order, Cashiers Check, PayPal, or Western Union. email for more info: chuck@wrtcleather.com