ChuckBurrows

Bear jawbone grip with cable Damascus blade and Southern Cheyenne style sheath...... it's designed to be worn on a bandoleer which isn't finished yet........

Bear jawbone grip with cable Damascus blade and Southern Cheyenne style sheath...... it's designed to be worn on a bandoleer which isn't finished yet........

Two things - shouldn't that be Somac thread and not Sewmac? and I agree that in the finer sizes such as 18/3 it's more uniform but once you go 4 cord and above Barbour's is just as even at least in my experience. Plus Somac is much harder to find here in the USA. With respect but hemp thread is not the same as linen - hemp thread is made from cannabis sativa (yep the same plant as marijuana) while linen is made from flax. Hemp thread is in fact the strongest plant based thread while silk is the strongest commonly available natural thread of all (spider silk is stronger but is not very common). And I agree about the wax/rosin mix being better over all and not just for ending the stitches - once I starte using it I have never gone back to plain beeswax. Another plus is rosin adds anti-bacterial properties to the thread which helps prevent rot.

as others have noted it's all a learning experience and FWIW I've been crafting leather for 51 years now and know many other old timers (one who has been doing it since 1947) and we all go through periods where we just want "give it up"........as for throwing stuff away - I can't think of one pro that doesn't have a "scrap" bin...also re_mistakes I follow the "rule" when possible of if you can't fix it feature it. Also here are links to some sheath tutorials: http://www.wrtcleather.com/1-ckd/mexloop/_mexloop.html Scroll down to sheath's http://www.knivesby.com/knifemaking.html

Thread - I like 25/3 linen or the standard 18/3 linen. Another option is fine hemp thread or silk thread (not the embroidery floss) for needles #2 or #3 Osborne egg eye needles ( get them from Campbell-Bosworth) or the excellent John James needles which are made in England. Since you're in England you can get the 18/3 linen and the needles in the proper sizes from Leprovo, which will save a bit on shipping and VAT. Also grind/file down your awl blade to a finer size and then polish it well. As katsass noted the harness needles now offered by Tandy/LF are crapola - they used to carry the John James but apparently no more and the new ones break eyes easily - with the Osbornes or James I've only broken eyes only when either bending them or wearing them out from long term usage. BTW - I for sewing and getting a better grip I use the rubber fingers tips that you can get at most office supply stores I use one only on my index finger and find that sufficient most of the time, but you can also use on on your thumb - I seldom use pliers except in extreme cases...

RJF Leather - Roger advertises here and has a website. This pit tanned leather from Portugal and is the best leather I've used in years and I've been crafting now for 51 years......plus Roger is great to deal with........

Rudi - yes I would and you can also use ferric nitrate crystals if you cannot find ferric acetate - with the ferric nitrate (which FWIW is historically documented at least as far back as the 18th Century) I start out at a mix of 10 parts distilled water and 1 part crystals - if not strong enough add some more crystals, a bit at a time, until you get a good mix.

Barge has also recently developed a very low VOC contact cement - see their website....

do a look through here and what you don't find ask - some of the best military re-enactor/historians hang their hat there... http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php/board,99.0.html

I've been making bullet loops for over 40 years now and have found any decent 3/4 oz veg tan will work just fine (some prefer 4/5 oz, but 3/4 was the most commonly used thickness during the late 1800's, the period my work emulates). I've used premium calf in side by side comparison tests and frankly the extra expense just wasn't worth it as long as you cut your strips length wise and along the back of your side (not the lower belly area) Going lengthwise, nose to tail, cuts down on the stretchiness. If the hide you have is a bit on the stretchy side, just cut your strips wider then needed (about 1 1/2" for a 1" finished strip or even wider say about 4-5" to get two or three finished strips out of), wet and pre-stretch, than trim to correct width

Yes they are clicker knives and I use one a lot - they come with replaceable blades in both straight and curved (they are re-sharpenable as well)- The curved blades are great for cutting small to large curves. I wouldn't be without one... There are two types - one takes shorter blades and the other longer blades I prefer the longer bladed type - here's the handle by Osborne http://www.campbell-randall.com/shop/index.php?route=product/product&path=1_3&product_id=249 and the blades http://www.campbell-randall.com/shop/index.php?route=product/product&path=1_3&product_id=426

As you noted the earliest references to neatsfoot oil appear to be from the 18th Century. The term neats foot though dates back to the 1570-80 period. Here are some 18th Century refernces 1777 http://books.google.com/books?id=EjsSAAAAYAAJ&pg=PA374&lpg=PA374&dq=neats+foot+oil+history&source=bl&ots=SGor-VTNhU&sig=hquNJTkZlKDctgGY8unp4DT2XOc&hl=en&sa=X&ei=Ntk1UPujKcm42wWDpYHQBA&ved=0CDwQ6AEwATgK#v=onepage&q=neats%20foot%20oil%20history&f=false 1779-1806 period http://books.google.com/books?id=8JevoWCNQlAC&pg=PA163&lpg=PA163&dq=neats+foot+oil+history&source=bl&ots=l48K-cqNUx&sig=VN0gmhomCTvoefzcBFIqcZG6vrg&hl=en&sa=X&ei=i9g1UOmcH4jO2gW_s4B4&ved=0CHMQ6AEwCQ For more indepth history of the use and manufacture in Colonial America I would contact the leather shop at Colonial Williamsburg. As to how it was produced - just one reference: http://books.google.com/books?id=feJQAAAAYAAJ&pg=PA638&dq=neats+foot+oil+history&lr=&ei=-9Y1UI6zLIzwUL_EgdgJ&cd=11#v=onepage&q=neats%20foot%20oil%20history&f=false there are many more references on Google Books - try neats foot oil history as a search term Since the 1930's though most neatsfoot oil is made from lard. Common period alternatives: Tallow, cow or sheep, was one of the most common leather dressings - the above link also discusses tallow usage. Olive aka sweet oil was also used from ancient times. Sperm whale oil was also used - modern day Lexol Conditioner is a synthetic form. Lanolin was another.

Suggestion - talk to Will Ghormley about who he has cast his custom buckles - IIRC it's a company out of Albuquerque, NM and they will deal in small lots with a minimum order of I believe $150.00. They cast in white and yellow bronze. Might be these folks http://www.hutchscasting.com/

after using the Gum Trag add a coat of two of Leather Balm with Atom Wax it will really lock it into place - IIRC that's what Dusty uses. Other makers I've known use thinned down Carpenter's glue to make a pasted back.....

3 inch wide single thickness cartridge belt with twenty semi-woven 38 Special/ 357 Mag loops. Nickel plated solid brass California clip corner buckle. Decoration includes nickel plated spots and Buffalo Brothers conchos. The entire rig has been given a patina of age. Size: center hole is 38" with three inches of adjustment on either side - will fit 35-41". Cartridge belts are typically 3-5 inches longer than the waistband size of one's pants. To make sure this belt will fit, see this link - Belt Measure http://www.wrtcleather.com/2-forsale/1_measure.html. Warranty: This item is warrantied for everything but abuse and/or using it for purposes outside the range of it's design for the life of the original owner Total Price: $250.00 USD includes Shipping & Insurance to USA - Canada and other foreign sales will require add'l shipping Payment Method: secure online payment via: Visa, Mastercard, Discover, PayPal - call 970-317-5592 to pay by Money Order, Cashiers Check, or Western Union,

Will Ghormley's apache moccasin pattern is available here http://www.willghormley-maker.com/ApacheBootPattern.html and is free to down load - he shows one technique for sewing the soles on (the non turn shoe method), but the turn show style of attachment is also recorded via existing artifacts - you can see several here http://anthro.amnh.org/north on the AMNH site and look at the pics (use the Zoom)- several are definitely turn shoe style soles - as with most NA Indian items there is no single one way of things done even amongst the same tribal members, even the old timers. The pictures and variations are consistent with the originals I have also examined first hand. for search terms use: moccasin for culture use: Apache, Hopi, etc. to narrow things down Apache Moccasin - very nice crafting and bead work on the plains high tops.... FWIW - as for the Apaches and others keeping things close to their vest so to speak re: crafting methods - most Indian crafters I know first hand are usually very open and helpful, but others are not so for many reasons, one being that so many have for years been down trodden - abused and used by others for their own personal gain and to the detriment of the Indians. While I basically agree with you about "keeping secrets" I also understand why many are shy about it or consider it at times culture vulturalism - they have had so much stolen from them over the years and while things like glass embroidery bead work were developed with the aid of Euro goods it's a very emotional issue for many and therefore using logic as an argument won't make any difference - but generally it is not being mean - just put yourself in their position. Generally when you get to know the folks in person rather than via mail, etc. it makes a difference (although there are those few who just won't like it no matter what - and not just "whites" - if you're not a member of the tribe or if it is seen as a "treat" to their ability to make money, but getting to know tribal folks is tough to do at times even when you live close like I do. One resource that should be a big help for you AM is the Plains Indian Seminar two group on Yahoo - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/PlainsIndianSeminartwo/?yguid=174734538 It is the home for many of the finest Indian crafters, both white and Indian, and although it's mainly Plains crafting centered, I have no doubt that at least some have first hand knowledge on construction and technique of APache gear.

I would recommend that you get a copy of "Craft Manual of North American Indian Footwear" http://www.crazycrow.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CCTP&Product_Code=4105-003-042'>http://www.crazycrow.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CCTP&Product_Code=4105-003-042 it has the pattern for both Dine aka Navajo and Apache hard sole style mocs and shows how to stitch them as well as patterns for most other tribal styles. they also carry white latigo soles that are 1/8-1/4" thick (or glue two of them together to make extra thick) in various sizes that should fit most folks feet. http://www.crazycrow.com/mm5/merchant.mvc? Will Ghormley's Apache boot pattern also show how to properly sew the sole http://www.willghormley-maker.com/ApacheBootPattern.html

thanks for the kind comments and glad you enjoyed the view...BTW Ute - I live on the Southern Ute rez in SW Colorado, not a Ute myself though(mixed blood Euro,Tuscarora, and Choctaw, but not a registered member) Glad you like my website - need to update but just haven;t had the time or energy for a while..... David there are actually a number of good books and videos on beading methods (Crazy Crow is a great source)as well as the www.nativetech.org site which offers the basics in their glass beads section. I generally use the Cheyenne style of the lane (lazy) stitch and the two needle/two thread appliqué methods. I do have a start on an online tutorial for building a beaded sheath (I'm working on setting up a blog for such stuff, but "life" keeps rearing it's ugly head LOL!), I did one a while back that showed my quill work and the basics of making a rawhide lined sheath http://knifenetwork.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38872 . As for the style, that's really a matter of researching the subject via the internet, books, and in person visits to museums and collections. Pre-1850 work is harder to find info on but a good start is the article on the subject in the Book of Buckskinning vol 8 and it's addendum. One excellent on line source for the study of bead work and other Indian crafts is the Yahoo group http://groups.yahoo.com/group/PlainsIndianSeminartwo/?yguid=174734538 One thing for me though was a bit of "advice" I received back in 1972 from an old Oglalla artisan on the Pine Ridge rez. At the time I was learning by and making a bit of money by replicating originals and when I asked the lady if I could copy one of her pieces she looked at me with a quizzical look and said, "Sure but why? The work should come from your own heart and spirit." While I continued to do replicas and still do now and again those words of wisdom changed for ever the way I viewed my own crafting no matter what type. As for my beaded Indian/Scout/mtn man gear, funny thing is about 10 years ago I came close to quitting doing any frontier gear with bead work which had always been my first love since age 8 (I'm 59) - I had gone off in another more modern direction for a while with my leather work and then on top of that my brother in-law got invalided and I gave him my beading stuff for therapy. A couple months after that though I got some longhorn beef stew bones from a neighbor and after boiling the meat down I found a hock bone that just sort of screamed war club to me. I asked a friend, knife maker Gib Guignard, if he wanted to forge a blade for me and then we decided to do a companion knife and sheath. That re-fired my 40+ year passion for "frontier" gear - due to my back issues I also found it was easier on my bod then the heavy stamping and tooling work I had gotten into and now I prefer doing this type work more than anything else and so far the fire in my gut is still burning bright - it really is my passion and now looks like it will stay that way. Here's the set Gib (RIP mi amigo) collaborated on - I added a piece of deer antler to the hock bone for a handle and made it into a quirt/club. The knife has deer leg bone handle with a piece of deer antler for a bolster. The bead work is in the pre-1850 Absaroka style. And thank you for your prayers - some issues are due to a damaged immune/systemic system and aren't really curable at this point. but slowly I'm getting them under some control I lost 50 pounds which helped - still some days it's hard to chew through the straps so to speak, but like Betty Davis said getting old isn't for sissies!

Still dealing with some chronic health issues (and other things) that have slowed me way down over the last couple of years, but I finally got something done.... This is a pre-1850 quiver and bow case made of heavy brain tanned elk with early Cheyenne style pound bead work. Other deco includes fringe, brass beads, tin cones, horse and human hair. The base of the quiver is made of 5/16" thick neck hide the arrow points from dulling with an outer cover of rawhide to keep the points from poking through. While not a direct copy it is based on several originals A belated Christmas gift it's a companion piece to this SW style knife and sheath and Cheyenne style pipe bag ---

I've used Barbours now for 51 years and still counting and although I've tried other threads in the past I always wound up going back to Barbours. For getting pitch/resin/rosin off your hands use pure gum turpentine.....For general sewing I use a 50/50 mix of rosin and beeswax - plenty sticky for most work...

Maybe those sizes such as 532 are metric since the French in particular have been using the metric system for a very long time? In so far as Barbour's unwaxed linen that is available here in the United States every box I've bought over the last 50 years lists the sizes with the slash such as 18/3

I can't answer for the 532, 632, etc. but anytime it is 60/3 or 18/3 - the first number before the slash is the gauge (i.e. thickness) of the individual strands and the second number is the number of strands - in this case three strands. Like metal the larger the gauge number the thinner the thread strands so a 25/3 thread and an 18/3 thread both have three strands but the 25/3 is overall thinner. Hope that helps

Not calling anyone out just pointing out that the info you shared was limited. Vast? well I'll leave that up to others to decide for themselves, I make no such claims, but the info I shared is based on 51 years worth of studying the subject in depth of many varied tribes and not just based on one tribes way of doing it - maybe check your attitude and you might just learn something???

Sylvia - not sure where you are getting you're info from, but that is the least common way to do fringe on Indian clothes and other gear.(BTW - I use Indian because most of my Indian "brothers" - I'm mixed blood - from several tribes, both western and eastern, especially those who still live on the rez, dislike that Native American appellation, including Russel Means - see his Mohican Press interview, and his AIM brothers. Most in fact prefer NDN these days. FWIW - I live on the So Ute rez and in an area, the Four Corners, with the highest concentration of NDNz of any where in the US, including Dine, Jicarilla, and Pueblo along with the Utes). Yes braintan would be the most common leather used in the old days (not the only type used though), but the most common method of making fringe was either self fringed i.e. fringe cut from the same piece as the clothes/gear was made from or an inserted piece that was then fringed as most "whites" do. My info comes from being taught by my brothers and sisters of several western tribes and the actual hands on inspection of thousands of original pieces, including hundreds of pieces with twisted fringe, which is specifically a southern plains style used mostly by the Kiowa, Comanche, Southern Cheyenne, and sometimes Jicarilla. I also make/have made a lot of such gear/clothes including a number of pieces, mostly copies of original pieces, for museum display, when the original is too delicate to be displayed. As for the "best" method and materials - Bruce nailed it for general use on chinks, etc. Old timers gnerally used only water, but with chrome tan leather (deer, elk, sheep, lamb, etc.) either 70% rubbing alcohol or a mix of alcohol and water. For weights like Bruce I use the large binder clips found at any office supply - one clip will hold up to 4-6 fringes. Once twisted and weighted and while still damp, I pull on the fringe to stretch it, which also tightens the twist. for those interested in seeing a bunch of original NDN gear and clothes I recommend perusing the sites: http://anthro.amnh.org/north http://www.splendidheritage.com/nindex.html

That is not a thonging chisel, it's an English pricking iron used to mark stitches do a web search for pricking iron or leather pricking iron - Joseph Dixon and Vergez Blanchard are two makers and are/were sold via Siegel - not cheap though so be prepared for sticker shock.......you can also try Ebay, etc. or www.Proleptic.net for new or used ones.