ChuckBurrows

Haven't been around to post for a while - too many things keeping me busy, but I just finished this one (Wild Goo 28) and am tickled pink so....... Here's 1840’s era SW Belduque style knife (I say style since original belduques were generally integrals, although the iron tang and bolster(s) were often forge welded to the steel blade rather than being formed in one piece –steel was expensive back when). The 8 3/8” blade was handforged by mi compadre Tai Goo with file work on the spine by me. The grip has a pewter bolster and the wood is crotch grain hickory “repaired” with a deer rawhide wrap and decorated with some simple incise carving and brass tacks. Although hickory is not native to the SW it is a wood that would have been available after the opening of the Santa Fe Trade between the US and Mexico in 1821. The beaded sheath is in a southern Plains style and the decoration is based on three originals. The core is heat hardened bark tan leather with a braintan cover. The blue, white, and amber 8/0 pound beads are typical colors used during the early period as is the larger size. Other decoration consists of beaded fringe with tin cones and buffalo hair tufts. Everything was then aged to give it that used but not abused look.......

Hope this helps - Based on what you said you're doing I would recommend the 4 cord Barbours if you are going to have only one thread size. Why? I find a fair amount of slubs in the three cord so for me there's more waste (both time and material) when using it, where as with the 4 cord it's very clean and even in comparison. I use the 4 cord even for items like my old west holsters at 8-10 SPI whereas with the 5 cord I sew at 5-6 SPI. Also with the four cord you always strip off one cord and have 3 cord.......... If you want to still try some of all three out send $5.00 and a note to: Chuck Burrows Wild Rose Trading Co 289 La POsta Cnyn Rd Durango, CO 81303-9005 and I'll send you back 50-60 feet of each size......

Campbell- Bosworth: http://campbell-bosworth.com/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=linen

Are you asking about the fluted ones that are often called parachute spots like these - http://www.crazycrow.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CCTP&Product_Code=5510-206-704&Category_Code=530-350-000 or like these http://www.standardrivet.com/spots/designer-spots/38-stamped-parachute-spot.php And I'm curious why you would want to avoid these, at least for pre-1900 work, since by far the majority of original work I've examined (which is a wholla bunch in the last 50 years) were simple domed nickle plated brass harness spots, where as the only parachute styles I've seen used pre-1900 were small concho buttons which you can get from Indian Jewelry Supply in New Mexico?????? Now for the 1920's or so and on yo do see fancier spots such as used on the rigs by Bohlin and other makers of that period.

For info on John W Waterer and his writings see: http://www.museumofleathercraft.org/ one book Leather Craftsmanship is available on Amazon for a not bad price: http://www.amazon.com/Leather-Craftsmanship-John-William-Waterer/dp/0713510315 other titles include Leather and the Warrior A list of books dealing with historical leather: http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/leather/bibl.html one example of mid-1700's Scottish leather tooling - this is real typical of the period:

A question - is the gent looking for American buffalo aka Bison or is he looking for water buffalo? these are two compeletely different leathers that go by the same name...... For American buffalo check with Colorado Leather Goods http://coloradoleathergoods.com/ For Water buffalo http://www.waterhouseleather.com/water_buffalo_leather_hides.htm

Don't know about the 3M spray but do know the DAP Weldwood NonFlammable Contact Cement (green and black can) is an excellent glue for more porouos leathers like pig skin and buckskin, whether gluing to themselves or to veg/bark tan hide. It's available at most hardware or paint stores and for applying I use the throw away foam brushes. Be sure and shake well.

FWIW - Yes tooling was done on pre-1745 Scots leather. Tooling goes back at least to the Ancient Egyptians and even earlier to the Neo-Lithic period. The various books by John Waterer are an excellent resource on the history of leather through the ages.

Actually Ken you are wrong - the vast majority of civilian holsters from the period being discussed were tooled - either carved, stamped, plated, or roll marked. It's a matter of different aesthetics for that period - for most gunleather plain unadorned leather was just not in style. Tooling was in fact fairly cheap to do - often done by lowl paid apprentices and journeymen. Most of the saddle shops were not one man concerns, but small businesses often with several workers and labor was cheap. As noted the book Packing Iron is a good start on researching gun leather of the period. Zon Publishing's other book, Cowboys and the Trappings of the Old West, also has a good section on gun leather. These two books include full color works byt major makers of the period such as F.A. Meanea, Moran Brothers, Collins, and many others. They also show how both tooling styles and pattern styles changed over the years - what was popular in 1865 was not the same as 1890. Other online sources are the various auction houses such as Cowans, Butterfields, Greg Martin, etc. These auction houses often have period leather examples. Then there are some online museum type resources. Overall it's not a simple subject - been studying it for 50 years and I'm still learning.

Actually they've got it a bit bass akwards in so far as the rusting - rusting the steel wool is not necessary and can in fact be counterproductive since it goes to the red stage of the oxide rather than the black stage. This advice to use rusty iron tends to come from those who use this as a wood staing where one tends to want the red stage. Also BOILING the vinegar is counterproductive because it drives off the acid faster and it's the acid that breaks down the iron to the right state for using. This such a simple recipe but for some reason folks keep wanting to make rocket science out of it.... Once again here is an ORIGINAL recipe for vinegar black from back in the day that it was one of the best methods used for blacking leather - it is close to most : VINEGAR BLACK For giving color to the grain of leather there is no blacking that will at all compare with the well known vinegar black. This may be made in various ways. The simplest, and, without doubt, the best, is to procure shavings from an iron turner (note: some folks get the turnings from brake drums) and cover them with pure cider vinegar; heat up and set aside for a week or two, then heat again and set in a cool place for two weeks; pour off the vinegar, allow it to stand for a few days, and draw off and cork up in bottles. This will keep for a long time, and, while producing a deep black on leather, will not stain the hands. FWIW - How I do it most times and pretty much how I;ve done it for over 40 years, 40 years in which I've studied the subject in depth: I use de-oiled 4/0 steel wool: dip in acetone, squeeze out the extra and hang to dry - then tear or cut into small pieces. Add one pads worth of the de-oiled steel wool to one quart of white, wine, or cider vinegar - I use those plastic coffee "cans" and punch a single small hole in the lid to let of any gas buildup and to prevent a messy blowup. Let it set in the hot sun which will speed the reaction, but go no hotter. I let it set for about two weeks until there is only a light vinegar odor left and/or the bulk of the steel wool has been dissolved. I also keep a new batch "cooking" all the time so I have a constant supply. For the deepest black, apply a bath of strong black tea first (this increases the tannins) and let it soak in good. There are other sources of tannins such as varous barks and leaves, but tea is easily available. Then apply a generous amount of the vinegar black. Let set for about a half hour and then rinse with a mix of baking soda and warm water, about a 1/8 cup soda to a half gallon of water, apply, let set for a few minutes and then rinse off. While still damp apply a light coat or two of your favorite saddle oil. Once dry top coat as normal Experiment - I test a piece of each new side without oiling to see how well it takes the blacking, if need be I'll do a second black tea mix to darken, then apply the oil which also helps darken. Instead of steel wool you can use chopped up bailing or fence wire - the smaller the better since it will dissolve in the vinegar bath faster. And if I sound a bit cranky it's because I am (loooong and unproductive day), but no slam is intended towards you for passing on the info.......

Yes it can as can alchol, both isopropyl aka rubbing alcohol and denatured, and oxalic acid aka wood bleach. The commercial deglazer is a mix of denatured alcohol and citric acid according to the MSDS - you can make your own with a quart of denatured alcohol and 1/8-1/4 cup pure lemon juice.

You're welcome......

Did you deglaze/remove any surface finish before dying? If not that's most likely your problem. FWIW - I use Fiebings for dying chrome tan of different types all the time and no problems at all....well no more than any other leather anyway...... Also after dying did you buff the surface clean of any residual dye? Fiebings dye always leaves a layer of "powder" on the surface that should be removed before finishing. If teh chrome tan is a bit oily you may need to use one of the acrylic finishes/sealers rather than Leather Balm.

1) Does the 'rooning process change the color of natural thread? No 2) Should I sew before or after I apply the vinegaroon? either way - your choice 3) For the 'rooning process, how do you apply it? Dip the item, dauber it on, brush it on, etc? Could the vinegaroon be kept in a spray bottle and sprayed on the item? all of the above - which ever way works best for you and the item you are working on. I prefer dIp dying since it is simply the easiest for me, but I also brush it on for larger pieces - a spray bottle should work fine, but you would need to filter it good to prevent any clogging As Emeral would say - "this ain't rocket science"

Will Ghormley...... http://willghormley-maker.com/OWC.html

try here - http://www.greenmanforge.com/

Nope in fact for making vinegar BLACK it can be counterproductive........ The "mix-up" IMO between unrusty and rusty is due to the fact that the same basic mix can be and is used as a woodstain and for that many prefer using rusty iron/steel since on some wood (e.g. maple) it will give a redder shade and somewhere along the line leather crafters seeking info on the mix have come across recipes offered by woodworkers thus the rusty vs unrusty. For leather blacking plain unrusted iron or mild steel is best.

Not anymore - there is no minimum purchase required But did you add on handling costs? most companies do since it's not the cost of the shipping alone - they must also include the cost of labor for boxing and bookkeeping - factors that should be considered by any one doing business......

Again........ Vinegar lack aka vinegaroon The original recipe: VINEGAR BLACK For giving color to the grain of leather there is no blacking that will at all compare with the well known vinegar black. This may be made in various ways. The simplest, and, without doubt, the best, is to procure shavings from an iron turner (note: some folks get the turnings from brake drums) and cover them with pure cider vinegar; heat up and set aside for a week or two, then heat again and set in a cool place for two weeks; pour off the vinegar, allow it to stand for a few days, and draw off and cork up in bottles. This will keep for a long time, and, while producing a deep black on leather, will not stain the hands. How I do it most times: I use de-oiled 4/0 steel wool: dip in acetone, squeeze out the extra and hang to dry - then tear or cut into small pieces. Add one pads worth of the de-oiled steel wool to one quart of white or cider vinegar - I use those plastic coffee "cans" and punch a single small hole in the lid to let of any gas buildup. Let it set in the hot sun which will speed the reaction. I let it set for about two weeks until there is only a light vinegar odor left and/or the bulk of the steel wool has been dissolved. I also keep a new batch "cooking" all the time so I have a constant supply. For the deepest black, apply a bath of strong black tea first (this increase the tannins) and let it soak in good, then apply a generous amount of the vinegar black. Let set for about a half hour and then rinse with a mix of baking soda and warm water, about a 1/8 cup soda to a half gallon of water, apply let set for a few minutes and then rinse off. While still damp apply a light coat or two of your favorite saddle oil. Once dry top coat as normal Experiment - I test a piece of each new side without oiling to see how well it takes the blacking, if need be I'll do a second black tea mix to darken, then apply the oil which also helps darken. Instead of steel wool you can use chopped up bailing or fence wire - the smaller the better since it will dissolve in the vinegar bath faster. With respect Noah I've been using it for over 40 years and the baking soda can and will make a difference. I do not claim to be an "expert", but those who have done PH testing or those who have made other scientific comments about the effect do not have near the experience with it that I do and in my experience overall the BS bath (light BS mix as noted above and done quickly) sets the color and darkens it most times better then the vinegar black alone - my use has has to do with that factor rather than with neutralizing. As for neutralizing - I've stated before that it is a misuse of the term, but the bottom line is in 9 out of 10 cases it helps and that is based on many years of personal use and experimentation...... When your mix gets old two things help: 1) Dependent on the leather add some tannins - see above 2) Give the mix a kick - adda bit more iron and a bit more vinegar As to type of vinegar I prefer apple cider but white or even wine works since it's the acetic acid that does the job no the vinegar per se...

The BS Bath at 5 minutes is far too long and unneccessary and very possibly counterproductive since the possibility of "burning" it is increased exponentially. I just dip it in the baking soda and water mix (no more than 1/8 cupt to 1/2-3/4 gallons of fresh water) is needed and then rinse in cold clear water. As to the 20 minutes in the fresh water bath - if you are doing that to case the leather OK, but otherwise again not needed, just a good rinse and wipe off the excess........... The white spots may have been/probably were excess baking soda oozing out of the leather............

With iron and vinegar (which generally contains 4-8% acetic acid) you are making ferrous acetate when dissolving unrusted iron with the acetic acid in the vinegar and ferric acetate when dissolving rusted iron with the vinegar/acetic acid - The way I understand it and I'm not a chemist is the difference has to do with the oxide state of the iron - that determines whether is ferrous acetate Fe(C2H3O2)2 or ferric nitrate Fe2(C2H3O2)3. Ferric or ferrous nitrate on the other hand is made by dissolving one of the oxide forms of iron in nitric acid not vinegar so you are not making that. With walnut dye it's best to use the green ones when possible and make a syrup thick mixture by boiling and re-boiling as needed. Even then it is not a wipe on dye - the leather will need to soaked for varying amounts of time dependent on how dark one wishes. Some folks will say you need to add iron as a mordant and that is true for some cloths, but is not necessary with leather and if added will give you more of dirty gray brown rather than a brown brown. Some other original/natural dyes: Other period dyes: Logwood - various browns to black - you can get it from trapper's or some historical suppliers Cochineal - reds - mix with walnut or logwood fro reddish browns Walnut hulls - in general you need to make it strong and thick and leave the leather soak in it for a fair amount of time to get any real coloring Turmeric - yellows Madder root - reds Coffee - dark roast biled strong makes nice browns (may not be "period" but it works pretty good) Various barks (mostly inner) give good colors: i.e. willow gives reds to browns, oak bark gives browns See more here - all of the materials are available on line from various suppliers http://chestofbooks.com/reference/Henley-s-20th-Century-Formulas-Recipes-Processes-Vol2/Dyeing-Leather.html http://www.museum.state.il.us/muslink/pdfs/dye_plants.pdf

FWIW - regarding the old pieces - that is old info and at times still touted even by some experts, but in fact the major reason for the red rot (which is irreversible) seen on old pieces is mostly from sulphuric acid - a major component of smog. Some old blackened goods in fact used ferrous sulfate rather than ferric nitrate (aka vinegar black/vinegaroon) and that increase the chance of red rot. Sulphuric acid is also one reason I no loner use the import hides, because many tanneries use sulphuric acid rather than other chemicals in the the bating process, which is an important part of the tanning process - in the past bating was also called dunging since it used animal dung, mostly chicken. As for age, vinegar black has in fact been used at least as far back as the ancient Greeks - oldest reference I know of is 50 AD by Pliny the Elder in his writings, but the process is more than likely older. As for the acetic acid content - yes a higher content will speed things as does the heat, but 4% and even lower will work - it just takes longer and the vinegar may need to be refreshed if all of the iron has not been dissolved in a certain period of time. Stirring the mix to aerate it also helps - the added oxygen helps break down the iron and make the process more complete. And again adding tannins (strong tea, high tannins bark solutions, etc.) to the leather either just before or just after the vinegar black will increase the likelihood of a good black. And FWIW the iron isn't chemically bonding with the acid, but rather being dissolved by the acid. Leather crafter's in the 18th Century even used ferric nitrate (iron dissolved in nitric acid), but I've found it to be a bit too strong and it takes more time to off gas any residual acid even after "neutralizing" since nitric has a lower VOC than does acetic acid. Just be sure not to over neutralize because bark tan leather is normally somewhat acidic (about 4.5-5 on the PH scale where 7 is neutral) and too much/too long in the neutralizer will be detrimental in a couple of ways.

1) Animal fats DO NOT weaken nor rot leather - this has been proven in the lab as well as in the field 2) As to the tannery removing them - yes they are and must be removed from the rawhide before they do the actual tanning, but oils/fats are then returned to the tanned but as yet unsoftened hide during the currying process. This comment by them always makes me cringe since it shows an appalling and false understanding of the entire tanning process. Adding fats back to the tanned hide is known as fat liquoring and/or stuffing - the matter is a bit more complicated but that's the basics and all leather needs a certain amount of fats/oils or they will stiffen and crack, etc. Sno-seal is a decent product especially in conjunction with a good conditioner, but beeswax can have it's own problems as well... BTW - the oil-wax mix is also known as dubbin - an age old blend of usually tallow (usually sheep or beef) or lard (pig tallow), oils of various types (animal and vegetable have been used), beeswax, and st times other additives such as pine pitch - i.e. Montana Pitchblend uses the latter and is one commercial version of dubbin.

No the difference is not that one is water soluble and the other alcohol(spirit) soluble - both in fact require alcohol/spirits to thin, clean, etc.. The Oil dye (which according to the MSDS has no oil in it that I can decipher) is an improved version of the older/original Spirit dye per teh Fiebing's own description - the improvement apparently being "better" ingredients. IMO try both and see which you prefer - one limiting factor being that the Oil dye is offered in a limited number of colors.

http://campbell-bosworth.com/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=linen They have the Barbour's Linen thread in thicker sizes: 6, 7, and 8 cord - I've never used thicker than 5 cord (which is fairly thick), bu one of those should be just the ticket. IMO there is no better natural thread available. For synthetics some one else will have to advise since I have any experience with them except in machines.