ChuckBurrows

this might help as a start: http://knifenetwork.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22381

Wit all due respect but that's an "urban" legend - the method of using water and heat to change leather at the molecular level (occurs at around 160° F) was never lost - it has continued to be used even into modern days - don't believe me> THan read John W. Waterer's books on the history of leather - while some of the methods used in the past may longer be used in modern times, the basic method of water and heat is still being used today to form items such as steamer trunk corners and molded leather cigar cases. It's the wet heat that creates the change. One of the best researched on line articles for cuir bouilli is here http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/leather/hl.html FWIW - I've been using the basic method in re-creating original pre-1900 leather goods (including armour) for over 45 years and when compared to the originals (one on one next to each other) the only difference was in the aging....Why folks want to complicate the method with glues, etc is beyond me? After finishing the cuir bouilli process I have used high heated wax or oils as a sealer, but even that's unnecessary since regular room temp or low heat waxes or oils work just fine. as always though everybody's mileage will vary....

or you can get a pinking punch like these http://brucejohnsonleather.com/content/index.php/leather_tools_for_sale/leather-punches-concho-slot-strap-end-and-hole-punches/ On softer leathers it also helps to tape the back side with blue tape -it helps keep the leather from loosing it's shape

If no one comes up with an answer do a web search fo r old west or wild west fonts - a real quick search came up with several that are similar

I make my own by using strips of the appropriate sized leather (I make it a bit wider than needed and after scalloping I trim to the correct width) and for the scallops there are no scissors available that I know of so I use a round punch of the appropriate diameter and grind off half of one side to make it a half round. This is a pic of one of my pairs of botas on which I used fairly large scallops, but I have made them as small as 1/4" with a 1/8" spot in the center

FWIW - I have several reliable sources for brain tan so if interested let me know. On the other hand there is a great alternative "soft" alternative to both those types - the German Tan from Crazy Crow - this is an old time fish oil tanned leather (think chamois) and is less expensive than brain tan - it is great stuff...As for protecting the finish one ones gun I agree with Thad Rybka - if you don't want wear on your gun leave it in the box...!!On the other hand I don't recommend soft or suede linings - while in the beginning or to the uninformed they may seem the proper thing in time they will pick up all types of grit and oil so that the lining then becomes sandpaper. On the other hand the flesh side of a veg tan holster can be quite easily smoothed and will in the long run be a better choice than suede/soft liners. Otherwise I use thinner tooling leather (check out book binder supply houses for thin veg tan) such as pigskin or cow or I go with the a 3/4 oz cow veg tan liner and a 4/5 or 5/6 oz veg tan outer.

Yep appears to be a scammer as I noted above and as normal he's going after the little guys who he figures won't know better- here's a Google search for shotgun shell conchos - note some of the makers/sellers of his so-called patented item are big time like Nocona, Browning, Sheplers, Roper, and Mossy Oak, bet their lawyer won't deal - might be worth while spreading the word..... https://www.google.c...erp.0IeU4G1Jw2M unfortunately the current Patent Office has been real lax in back checking whether something is really patentable - they just collect the money and.....

It's mainly a type of scam that has been ongoing for some years now - people do these patents and then go out and "charge" people with infringement in order to make money.. it happened with wed designers a few years ago and was all the rage - unless your piece is an exacting copy of his patent you are basically safe although he can try and cost you money but that's the scam - they settle "amicably" by you sending them a chunk of change - I had it happen to me some years ago and told them to get stuffed after discussing it with a patent lawyer which cost me $50.00 (they wanted $10,000.00 grand with on going payments) ...haven't heard from them since after the lawyer sent a letter as part of the charges.. it may go higher but I doubt it, especially if he doesn't respond in a professional manner

http://www.museumofleathercraft.org/ this one is in London England and the research goes back to the ancients...

totally agree about the Douglas tool - after years of using the other cheaper all in ones I got a set and have never looked back - the difference in the ease of use and finished quality is a big one - not cheap but if you want to do pro level work it is well worth the extra cost. IIRC Sheridan Leatherworks is the exclusive dealer for Douglas Tools now..

With all due respect that sounds "good" the only thing is if copper rivets put nicks in your axe blade then something is wrong with the blade - an axe blade made of good steel will cut through the copper rivets without damage, just like the nippers do that you use to cut copper rivets with. On the other hand I do prefer to sew for most of my goods, but again copper rivets should not affect the edge of a good blade at all - the Scout Master may have been basing his info on the steel shank rivets so often seen on older sheaths - that's a different story. As for the size of the rivets - depends on the size of the axe, but for a good hand axe/hatchet 12's will work fine.

Not unusual with it being that old but don't throw it away - just add a bit of iron and vinegar to renew it...

A freebie with the basics which can be adapted to various styles - http://www.wrtcleather.com/1-ckd/mexloop/_mexloop.html

deglaze it with a mix lemon juice and 90% rubbing alcohol is one way - mix it about a 1/8 cup of lemon juice to a quart of alcohol is what I generally use. If still a bit too shiny use Acetone. Do either outside or with plenty of air flow and in both cases a good painters chemical mask with the proper cartridges is HIGHLY recommended....you can get the latter at any hardware or paint store for around 40-50 bucks....

I use an 1/8 of a cup of baking soda to a half gallon of water or thereabouts - just dunk the piece (if two big just wipe it down with a wet sponge) in the mix for a count of 5-7 seconds (DO NOT wait until it stops bubbling that will alkali burn the leather and can cause brittleness), rinse with clear cool water, apply you're favored oil/conditioner, and go from there......and yes I do not wait until after it's dry.

Frankly with lots of time using leather goods (boots, holsters, saddles, sheaths, etc.) in the outdoors 24/7 (I have worked in heavy construction, as a logger in the very wet Pacific northwest, and as packer in the northern Rockies). I frankly don't think you can water proof leather as such with home brewed goods (back in the 1970's there was a company that claimed to have a waterproof leather). In my experience you can make leather quite water resistant - over the last 50 years I've used Obenauf's, Montana Pitchblend, SnoSeal, Hubbard's, some kind of tarry crap that was sold at saw shops, and more and they all worked good to a point - but nothing made the leather water proof in the long term. IMO - the best way is when the leather gets wet let it dry properly and then re-condition it with your favorite mix.

You are correct - regular hardware/paint store brands are not truly boiled (heat polymerizes the oil and hastens drying) but rather they use manganese dryers. and other nasty chemicals. On the other hand you can buy a real boiled linseed oil From Tried and True http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/. FWIW - linseed oil though is a drying oil and can make the leather hard over time and cause cracking/crazing as seen on a lot of old 19the Century leather. The original patent leather from the early 1800's used linseed oil as a component and was an early attempt to waterproof leather.

I believe that Fiebings is the only "true" neatsfoot oil still being made from cow parts - most other brands are in fact made these days from a base of hog lard and has so been since the 1930's - at least in the USA.

Tool first then harden - use a thick /hard enough leather to beging with and it won't change the abilities - but how well it protects depends on several factors not just hardness - for some of he best info on cuir bouilli aka boiled leather (not really boiled) see here: http://www.personal....leather/hl.html

If you're interested in the "cowboy" look get a copy of Packing Iron - it includes shoulder holsters

as noted above many such items have a lacquer finish which must be rermoved first - use a stripper or soak in lacquer thinner first, then age..

It is known as half tan in English and based on the sheaths I;ve seen carving is not a problem. Brisa sells it. https://www.brisa.fi/portal/index.php?option=com_oscommerce&osMod=index&cPath=93_66

Lacquer thinner will remove most/all of the Neatlac better than anything else I've ever used.......

With respect but that is not 100% correct - much depends on the country as well as the part used, certain items such as bear parts are pretty much verboten all over, but other common items such as skunk claws, coyote bones, etc are usually not a problem - the state and country laws are easily checked on line as well as the CITES info. My point is based on the fact that many of the items I make and sell, both in the USA and overseas include many wild life parts. The only problems I have ever had was with a sheath that included a non-threatened reptile skin to a gent in Switzerland, where any type of reptile skin is verboten, whether the critter is endangered or not. Then of course there are some of the "idiots" who work for the government and don't know the law, but will arrest you anyway - a few years ago a gent came to the Bladeshow in the US from South Africa with a load of giraffe bones for sale - completely legal and he had jumped through all of hoops, but a USFWS idiot officer claimed it was illegal ivory (the two are easy to differentiate between) , confiscated the bone, immediately had the get deported, despite otehr members of the USFS who tried to tell her that everything was OK, but she was the officer in charge and could only see that she was making a righteous bust which would put her on the fast track - the innocent dealer lost a large amount of money (he never did receive his goods back - they had reputedly been "destroyed" even after testing positively as bone and not ivory) and precious time, but eventually a good judge turned the ables and that IIRC officer lost her position and wound up paying a very large fine, but it was still a huge hassle and . FWIW - places like Crazy Crow, Moscow Hide & Fur, and Eidnes Fur (all have websites) sell cleaned claws of various types and the cost is negligble especially considering the time savings - again know your state laws regarding possession of certain types of critter parts - some come with a steep "price" if caught . Also as noted handling roadkill can create some serious health issues, rabies is just one.

Since you have a resale/tax number check out Ohio Bag Company and Weaver Leather