ChuckBurrows

I understand what you're saying and while many do make them with the buckle section being turned flesh side out - IMO this is mainly to prevent rub against the foot if turned opposite. On the other hand I make them with that section skived well so there is no extra bulk against the foot as would happen if that section wasn't skived. The method I use works well based on personal experience - been wearing spurs when needed since the 1960's and FWIW - I've seen plenty of period (1870-1920's) spur straps done both ways...so IMO no real right or wrong...

Here's a link to a basic history. http://jorgecentofanti.tripod.com/jorgecentofanti/history.html IMO for the best in depth study of the subject track down "Spanish Leather, A History Of its Use From 800 to 1800 for Mural Hangings, Screens, Upholstery, Altar Frontals, Ecclesiatical Vestments, Footwear, Gloves, Pouches and Caskets" by John W Waterer

Look up the Crispin Colloquy http://www.thehcc.org/cgi-bin/discus/discus.cgi This is a shoemaker's site with lots of info on hog bristle sewing - many today use monofilament line to replace the hog bristles

Just add some more iron and vinegar - sometimes a shot of vinegar is all that's needed.....

I reactivate old vinegar black all the time

Never could understand why folks want to soften a sheath or holster when they are purpose designed to be stiff for various reasons including safety. A good stiff sheath body goes along way to preventing accidents like going through the side or edge when re-sheathing the blade, which in over 50 years making sheaths I've seen beaucoup times with "soft" sheaths. Most of my personal sheaths are of a frontier style and covered with rawhide to both stiffen and offer extra protection.

Doubt if it would go lighter - the "problem" is the sun oxidized the oil which gave it that reddish color (a color often wanted BTW) and that is permanent.

As noted bark/veg tan is by nature on the acidic side of the scale (about 4.5 - 7.0 is neutral), So you will get bubbles even if not using vinegar black. As for the "damaged leather" assumption - it is not an assumption at all, it is fact based on 45+ years of experience. Leave the leather too long in the baking soda will cause alkali burn which ruins the leather and that's a fact based in science as well as long experience. Leave leather in a baking soda bath even without using vinegar black for too long will turn it almost blacj and very brittle. A fairly weak - a 1/8 cup to a half gallon of water - baking soda mix and then just a quick but thorough dip into the BS mix is all that is needed to set the color.

With Barbour's the first number - the 18 or 20 or whatever refers to the gauge of each individual ply/strand. The second number is the number of plys aka individual strands thus an 18/4 thread and 18/3 have the same size strands, but the 18/4 will be larger since it has an extra strand. With gauge the larger the number the smaller the strand thus 20/3 is smaller/finer than an 18/3.

1) the color of the mix has no real bearing on the finished color - In over 50 years of using it sometimes it's black, sometimes reddish brown, sometimes, almost clear. 2) If you're getting gray or brown leather you may not have enough residual tannins in the leather. Apply a coat of strong black tea either before or after applying the vinegar blacking. It's the chemical reaction of the iron and tannins that gives the color 3) Use a mild baking soda wash - just a quick application followed by a rinse with clear water. This helps set the color. Don't leave the baking soda on too lone as it can "burn" the leather leaving it brittle. 4) Apply a coat of your favorite oil on both sides while the leather is still damp. This allows the oil to penetrate deeper/better.

I've used all three and style 2 is the one that the Old George Lawrence Co used on hundreds if not thousands of their gun belts. Style 1 is more likely to push through to the back and then only if the loops aren't slightly oversize as Dwight noted, or the belt is not lined, or you're not wearing it - if you're wearing it then the loops cannot push out the back. Rather than sewing them on an unlined belt I've used spots and/or cap rivets between the loops on style 3 - adds nice deco and keeps the loops on the front. You can several belts done like this on my website. With style 2, which is my favorite for various reasons, I've never had the loops push out the back when unlined once the loops are form fitted. This is the style I use for my personal gear and in over 50 years wearing such a cartridge belt I've never had any problems even when working in the outdoors for long periods in my younger days as a cow hand, trapper, and guide and it's stronger than sewn loops. Also never had the back of the loops wear away when unlined.

The images I noted above don't appear to be painted, but any good acrylic or even earth paint will work on rawhide. To seal and waterproof American style rawhide goods I make I use a good quality satin finish (or gloss if you choose) varathane or the more traditional spar varnish.

FWIW - the mask in the last two images posted definitely looks like rawhide and not leather based on the off white color and mottled appearance - regular cow rawhide from Tandy and others should work fine and the thing is you DO NOT Have to bake it, just let it air dry completely before removing it from the form.

another thing that helps is to heat the mix which will speed things up - I just set it out in the sun in the summer or inside in a well sunlit window during the winter - I use the dark brown plastic coffee "cans" which will absorb the heat better

your welcome and that should have been you have NOT used up all of the acid..

Exactly why - you have used up all the acid - keep adding iron until it well no longer dissolve but rather rust it . Once done leave the lid off for a few days to allow any residual acid to gas off. Using baking soda (don't soak for long or you will burn the leather) will help but is not a panacea for not using up the acid.

RJF Leather sells it in sides and in double shoulders http://rjfleather.com/content/index.php/products/ great guy to deal with

You should be fine and as for heating - it speeds the process and helps cook off some of the odor

It's called a cross stitch - basic how-to here http://www.kingsmerecrafts.com/page125.html

Veg/Bark Tan leather itself is acidic - generally about 4.5 on the PH scale so over time it will cause wear on the bluing of a gun especially if it gets wet or in high humidity circumstances, whether you use vinegar blacking or any other type "dye". As Thad Rybka, master holster maker, used to state in his catalog - if you want to prevent wear on bluing than leave the gun in the box.... and again in so far as the odor goes 1) make sure the solution has used up all of the acetic acid (when the steel/iron begins to rust rather than dissolve is a good sign) 2) Let the mix gas off if need be - acetic acid is quite volatile and usually gasses off in just a few days especially if you stir the solution now and again 3) Dipping is fine but there is no real need to let it soak for more than a few seconds 4) let the dyed product air well - I put mine outside in the shade where it will get plenty of breeze or in front of a fan and let hang for 24 hours at least. As far as the color of the mix - it can be anywhere from a coal black to a sort of rusty red, and as long as it is doing the job, the color of the mix itself doesn't matter since the process is a chemical change from mixing iron/steel with the tannins in the leather - as others have noted you can do the same thing by soaking the iron/steel in plain water until it dissolves - that process just takes longer than using the vinegar...

The best I've found are the Persona blades that come individually wrapped in paper - they are available in the carpet supplies section of Home Depot or should be at any good carpet store that installs. For me they outlast even the better blades like Stanley, Olfa, and the rest 5 to 1 in my experience and can be stropped until they are worn to a nub.

It's the heat that hardens the leather - the wax just adds water resistance - the down side is the wax melts at a high heat and you can easily ruin a finished piece and and on a hot day the wax can ooze..just use the cuir bouilli aka boiled leather method of water and heat, much safer and you're not dealing with hot wax that can act like napalm on skin.......

FYI - W & C will double or triple plate your leather for no charge which will give you a stiffer leather. Stiffer leather is not necessarily a sign of quality (in fact it can be the opposite - some of the stiffer/crappier imports tend to crack while building goods ) - it all depends on your end product i.e. knife sheaths and most modern holsters tend to use a stiffer leather, but other items should have a softer temper .....

I use leather dye for dying my thread and cut off a piece and let it soak for a half hour or so while I do other things - wipe the excess off, let dry, and wax. You can also use clothing dye - just get the RIT cold water dye and mix half an half with distilled water - but since I always half leather dye it's just simpler to use it and no extra bottles either...

In over 50 years of leather crafting (40+ pro) RJF is some of the finest leather I've ever used and for the last 5 years or so it's all I've used so a big two thumbs up for Roger and his leather