BOOMSTICKHolsters

Ryan, just to be the devil's advocate here, that's a fobus holster. It isn't made of kydex, but instead from two pieces of injection molded plastic riveted together. Kydex is much better, but more expensive too. I guess you get what you pay for. I have used the fobus holsters before with some close quarters scenario training and had somewhat similar results to the post above. They are great range holsters, but I cringe when I see police officers or civilians utilize them for concealed carry. I tend to agree about not standing there and letting it happen, but I'm also not going to make a blanket statement that whoever lets that happen doesn't know what they're doing. I've never met anyone yet who couldn't be disarmed or have their weapon removed from their holster during a stressful simulated confrontation, whether wearing leather, kydex or otherwise. Now, all that having been said, I love leather holsters and I think they are a superior product for the largest majority of applications.

Nice tutorial, Don101. I didn't know water worked that well for slicking edges. I've heard it mentioned on this forum, but I'm from Missouri, so you have to show me. You have also convinced me to switch to rounded edgers. Thanks cor contributing. Knifeknut, it's a good idea to sand the edges flush before you use your edger, whenever you have two or more layers of leather stacked together. Use a course grit on a slow speed. If you don't have a drum sander (which BTW, are pretty cheep at grizzly tools), you can get away with cutting the edges flush with a round knife (or another very sharp knife, but be CAREFUL). Be sure to post pics when you're done with your holster.

I think it's fine. I wish my first leather project looked that clean. Pay attention to the folks on here that do a little tooling and carving and before too long you'll have the fanciest saw and sheath around. BTW, I think it's awesome that you make some of your own tools. That's a trade that could really come in handy sometimes. Keep up the good work.

Nice job, especially for a first holster. If you're like me, that welt is gonna bother you until you make another holster. Stay away from the oven and post some pics of the next one! BTW, welcome to the forum.

You can order a presser foot from artisan without the stitch groove built into it if you ask them about it. The "Tim Taylor" complex in me says I can make all the modifications myself, though......

That's awesome, man! Who's idea was it to use the instrument case?

I think it looks good. I think every holster you show us looks a little better than the last. What color brown is that? BTW, I think the stitching pattern looks and works fine. I just wondered how you came to the decision to do it that way. Are you using an Artisan 3000 for your stitching? If you are going to stitch after you mold you may want to get brave someday and cut your presser foot smaller so you can get closer to the stitches. Well, I tried to make a diagram of how it was shown to me to cut and round the edges of the presser foot, but it wouldn't show up right. If I were molding then stitching, I would also look into a holster plate.

Go get a bottle of rubbing alcohol and mix it 50/50 with water. Brush that across the surface you are marking and use a bone folder or something with a fine but blunt point to mark your lines. You may have to go over them more than once to get them to show up well. (Whoops! There goes another "trade secret" ) Thanks everyone for the kind words.

I don't get that many orders for the pancake style holsters in exotic leathers, so I thought I would share this set. This Shark skin on Horsehide holster with hidden loops and a matching mag holder was ordered for a Colt Commander. I am really starting to enjoy making the exotic holsters, as everything is usually a little different for every order. It's interesting how each one has it's own unique characteristics, depending on what the customer's preferences. Comments or critiques are always welcome. Thanks for looking.

Hop you don't mind if I take the liberty of reposting your pics for you. Try copying the text from the bottom line only when you post on this forum with photobucket. So what were the finish types you tried this time, and how did you apply them? I also noticed the different stitch pattern on these two. What inspired the change?

Nice work, Luke! Pretty slick lookin' sheaths you've got there.

Wrap a layer of waxed paper around the dummy and holster it half a dozen times, and that may reduce some of the tackiness. You can also use baby powder and then wipe it off, but be sure the finish is totally dry before you try that or it could get messy.

That's what I mean. Lots of makers do that, or run an edge creaser where they don't sew.

Looks really good. Nice work.

It looks good, but it's a lot of extra work. If you're gonna do that you might as well line the holster or use an exotic skin on the outside layer. If you want the look with much less effort, run a stitch groover along the edges.

Lots of improvement! That's a pretty big step from the first one, in my opinion. Why are you sewing the edge on the bottom, though?

Nice work! I bet that was a lot of fun. How did you like the artisan machines? If you don't mind telling us, how did he have you finish your edges at the class?

Yep, they start to add up. Unfortunately they are definitely your cheapest option. Aluminum dummies are more expensive, and demilled firearms cost more than that. Typically, I get the best results out of the blue guns. The only problem with them is that they will eventually wear out.

Cool! That's way too nice to get plastered with bugs!

I think I would sooner club a baby seal!

The only ones I know that will still do that are Ruger (with their revolvers only for $75 each, and don't be in any big hurry for them), and Kel-Tec (who I made a written request to about six months ago, and I still don't have any dummies). Otherwise, everyone else I've called doesn't do this anymore, and I have called a lot of folks. Good luck!

Thanks, Andy. I'll give them a call.

Just wait 'til someone wants a pocket holster for a six shot .45ACP snubby :mellow: You will get some strange request from time to time. My wierdest one so far was a belt holster for a Thunder Five .45LC/.410 revolver. It was huge! I hope he didn't plan on concealing that thing. I agree with you though. As long as it's safe, give them what they want.

In my opinion, if you can see the front of the trigger, it is too exposed. If you plan on making these for other people, you should probably add more trigger coverage. A lot of people won't use a holster that leaves any part of the trigger visible. I don't know if they're just being extra carefull or they don't understand that it's really hard to fire a gun by pulling the back of the trigger, but either way, you have to give folks what they want sometimes.

Hi Regis. I glue and sew the support pieces on flat. This helps them match up and more importantly, provides counter tension to keep the top of the holster open. It makes a much stronger reinforced opening then if you were to sew the piece on after it was bent. I would also suggest that you invest in some "Barges" or "Master" cement. Spread it on to both pieces in light layers, then allow a minute or two so they both get tacky. Place them together and "set" the glue by pounding the pieces with your hand or a flat faced mallet. You should be good to go after that. Sorry for the over explanation if you already know this stuff, but some folks on here might not.