BOOMSTICKHolsters

What weight thread did you use this time? I like 277 for both, personally, but a lot of guys use 346 for the top and 277 for the bottom (some use 346 for both). I've never used the drum dyed stuff before but I've been tempted to. How did you apply the dye that it turned out so scary? Post a pic if you don't mind, and remember the leatherworker's universal rule for botched dye jobs, as well: "It's black, and that's the way I designed it!".

Well, the good thing about this design is that you can almost trace the gun and you'll be pretty close, since all of the extra room is made by the extra width of the top piece. You should probably allow at least 1/4" around the actual shape so the trigger guard fits correctly. You're gonna hafta get the feel of the pattern making process by trial and error, I'm afraid. I still make mistakes once and a while on custom orders, which really sucks as it usually costs me around twenty bucks of would be profit. One thing that I do that might help you guys is save the excess belly leather from the sides I use. I will wet form the scrap leather around the gun, stitch it wet, and when it dries use a marker to draw design changes I want to make to the pattern for the production holster. Then I will rip the stitches out and flatten the leather to get a better idea of how to draw the pattern. It takes more time, but it is a good way to learn to get a feel for how to mark the stitch guides. Sometimes you'll just have to try something and see how it turns out. Once in a while everything will turn out perfect! The rest of the time you will end up with a lovely hand-crafted reminder of what not to do.

Always stitch them together. I have seen some holsters twith exotic skins sewn on the edges but only glued at the throat that had already begun to sepparate a little before they even went to the customer. Learn to do it a better way and you'll have a holster that lasts for years. Cut corners and you'll have a pretty holster for a little while........ BTW Randyc, that is a good looking holster!

WaG35, I would try a holster for the 19 without the tac light first to simplify things a little. After you get that down, then try the tac light. This is the method I would use to accomplish the holster type that you want: Make the bottom layer the axact shape that you want it to be. It wont change or deform because you arent' gonna mold it. Copy the shape onto your typical pattern paper, cut it out and then cut it apart where the stitch lines will be. Now you have three separate peices that make the front of the holster. Lay out the pieces on another sheet of pattern paper. Sepparate the pieces enough to allow for the width of the gun and the leather, if you follow me. The front should be a uniform distance apart. The rear will probably be about the same as the front on the bottom, and a little closer together at the top, since the trigger guard is narrower. Now that the peices are arranged how you want them, tape them down and draw lines to connect the gaps between the three pieces. If you want a lower cut to the front of the holster's throat, draw a U shape instead of a straight line between the front and middle pieces (on the top only or you'll have a silly looking holster). Cut out the whole over all shape and trace it to a single sheet of pattern paper or cardboard or whatever you normally use. That is your new pattern for the front of your holster. Carefully pull apart the taped peices on the previous template cause you're gonna need em. After you've cut the front and back holster peices, edge the areas that are going to stay a single thickness (the throat and the bottom opening of the holster). Now use the front and rear pieces you cut out before to mark where the stitch lines will be on your top layer. Prep the rear of the holster (only inside of the stitch lines of course) on both layers with glue, let them set a little until they are tacky, and line the edges up as you stick them together (the outside edges of both pieces will have the exact same shape since you added the extra material in the middle). Repeat this process with the front edge of the holster. This may be a little tricky since the top peice is wider than the bottom, but that's the point of this style of holster. Now you have two peices of leather glued together with a "tunnel" in the middle. Sew your stitch lines where you ,arked themas well as around the outside edges, and proceed as you normally would. When you wet the holster to mold it, place the holster on a hard smooth surface and only bone the front (you might only want to wet the front piece as well, but that is up to you). Tadah!!! You now have a flat side holster! You'll have to experiment with the tac light to do this method and be sure to place a spacer around the trigger guard to allow the extra room to be able to draw the light out. Also, pay a lot of attention to trigger discipline when holstering the gun in that style of holster, as they are too easy to get to the trigger even when holstered (due to the extra room for the tac light). Hope this helps. If you have another method ou would prefer, by all means do what makes you comfortable. I just wanted to share the best way I have come up with. Any one is welcome to interject with any improvements to my methods, as there are a bunch of folks on here with more experience than me.

Nice job, mliebs8. You are already showing a lot of improvement over the last one. I wish I learned that fast.

That's a beutiful whip! Great job. Makes me wanna watch "The Man From Snowy River" again.

When I stitch my belts I wet the inside layer and leave the outside layer dry, so the tension pulls the thread flush with the face of the inside layer. After that I use a smooth faced hammer and a smooth, hard surface to set the stitches, to make sure they are all sub-surface in relation to the leather. I don't like to use a groover when I can keep from it, and trying to hit the groove "blind" is probably beyond my ability anyhow.

How would you compare one against the other?

Great lookin holsters. If you wanted to make more of the scoped revolver models you could probably have a future in those alone. You can't hardly find that quality anywhere and most makers don't want to mess with that style of holster. The hunters around here love 'em. Pistol hunting white tails is gatting more popular every year in my area, and that looks to be a very 4-wheeler/tree-stand friendly design. BTW, how do you like Wickett & Craig's leather? I've never used it but I'm considering some new sources as I've not been totally thrilled with my last three of four sides. Did you use shoulder or spine leather for your holsters?

I dunno if this will help any more than the other posts, but I use Bick 4 leather conditioner to prep the belt and Angelus 600 as a finish. I love that stuff. I have never had it crack. It is much more flexible than resolene in my experience. I think it is one of the best kept secrets in leather production (I only say this 'cause I haven't hear of anyone else eho uses it ).

Nice job, Ben! 'You gonna make any more of those for sale?

Hey Ryan. I use kydex for my paddles. Easy to shape, and inexpensive. I attatch it to the holster with screws and t-nuts. With the right design, you can make a paddle that absolutely won't come out. You can get kydex from knifekits.com

I got the press from Grizzly Tools, and the steel plates from a local steel supplier. A good buddy helped me weld them together. The rubber came from Mcmaster-Carr. I don't use clicker dies since everything I build is hand cut/custom made. If I decide to use clicker dies in the future I will get a cutting board to place on the bottom and some cotter pins to make the rubber pads easily detachable, instead of unscrewing bolts to take them out. Any other questions, just let me know.

5. SQUISH!! 6. Now you can see the basic lines of the gun. Some people stop right here. 7. If you want a sharper look, chase the lines with a boning tool. 8. Dry and finish your holster however you normally do. The end

Thanks. Let me show you a condensed version of how I mold my holsters. 1. Cut the pattern out, glue it, edge it, and mark the stitch lines. 2. Stitch the lines. 3. Wet the leather to prepare it for shaping and insert the dummy gun. 4. Place it in the molding press (mine is a twelve ton hydraulic jack with two 3/8" steel plates holding 1" thick peices of 40 durometer natural gum rubber) to be continued......

Hey, waG35. Nice job. If you haven't dyed your new holsters yet, I would suggest you get some "Bick 4" leather conditioner first. If you apply it first, it will make the dye job much more even. It is even possible to mix it with the dye before you apply it. Just don't use too much of it or you will soften the hoster. The other good way to cheat and get an even finish is to use a hobbyist's air brush. If you planning on dyeing it black you can skip all this stuff, but for brown or tan finishes this works pretty well.

Drac, I'm not sure you will get much retention that way. There are so many abnormal surfaces on a handgun that the areas like the takedown lever or safety will bottom out against the wood before the thinner parts like the dust cover might not even get touched. Do you plan on making the pocket deep enough to mearly stretch the leather over the surface of the whole gun? That might work, but a moldeing press is a lot simpler solution. You only have to build it once and you can use it on any pistol. This other way it seems you will have to make a set of blocks for every different pistol. If I'm missing something here let me know.....that has been known to happen.

Hi, RandyC. I think your off to a decent start with your holster design. The one thing that stands out the most to me is the sharp corner above the rear loop. Leaving sharp corners can flare the leather out and possibly cause it to sepparate over time. Try to design your pattern so there is nothing that will catch on your surroundings or rub you raw. Another step you might consider is using an adjustable creaser to make a line along the unsewn edges to give the holster a more finished look. Did you stitch the holster before or after you molded it? Stitching the holster dry before you wet and mold it can help minimize tooling marks. Running a flat bone folder along the edges of the gun's profile will leave a distinct line that also makes the holster look more professional. You might also consider making the retention strap just a little thinner - if the edges stick out they will eventually bend and cause ugly wrinkles in the leather. Finally, I would suggest you get some spray on acrylic finish from tandy's (or somewhere similar) to protect the holster and give it a professional finished appearance. Anyhow, have fun building more holsters!

SCOUTER, I spent $200 more than the machine should have cost just to buy local. It was a good thing I did because the servo motor died out in about two weeks. They took care of it right away. Anyhow, to answer your question, the only regret I have about buying my Artisan Toro 3000 is that I didn't do it sooner. If you can handle the purchase price, I can't think of a better first machine to learn on.

If you want them pre-formed try getting a hold of comptac about them. They might seel them to another maker at wholesale.

If you're pretty desperate, ASP makes a red gun for the K9. The model number is 07318. You will need to check the overall specs to make sure they are close enough to work.

jetech, if you have access to a local leather supply store see if they have Angelus dye available. A lot of the pros use this to dip dye, but since you are just doing a couple of holsters I would recommend airbrushing the finish on. This will look a whole lot more even than any brush, felt or dauber. If you don't have an air brush kit you can find them at Wal-Mart, Hobby Lobby, or even at Harbor Freight between $10 and $20. After you dye the holsters you can apply an acrylic finish like Angelus 600 or resolene via the airbrush. This will result in a more professional looking holster without having to buy enough dye and finish to dip the holster. Oh, yeah - I never use an oil based product on a holster. It will become much to soft and loose its shape.

Very cool. Iv'e never seen a shark skin belt quite like that one.

Wow! Nice work!

Thanks, everybody for the kind words. Regis, the mag and flashlight holders are attached via a tunnel loop sewn on one side and open on the other. This is the only way I have found to add a tunnel loop on an exotic overlay that lets you get good strong stitches. I hope you can tell what I'm talking about from the picture; it's a little dark. Luke Hatley, I don't know Tony Watts, but that name sure does sound familiar. There's a good chance I heard of him while I worked at one of the local gun shops. Is he still around? You guys are great. I've already learned a lot from this forum. If I can ever return the favor I'll do my best to help.