BOOMSTICKHolsters

Jordan, I think that's a respectable holster. Nice job blending the second row of stitching into the previous boo-boo. No one would have any idea you ever made a mistake if you didn't tell them. I'm still looking forward to the ruger holster.

I think off-white thread looks way better on saddle tan holsters than the stark white thread. The bright white thread seems to be an assualt on the eyes, if you get what I mean. So far, I really like Linhanyl's bonded nylon thread. It has performed well in my machine, and with my holsters. My dad also uses Linhanyl's 69 weight bonded nylon thread to sew nylon halters and harnesses, and he made the observation that his Addler behaves much better with that thread than most of the others he's used (which is a lot, as he's been making tack since the 60s).

I actually considered a Neel's Saddlery machine when I was looking, but I went with the Artisan Toro 3000. What weight thread are you using? I like 277 top and bottom, personally. Thee are some makers who even use 346 for top or both, but I don't feel that is necessary.

I like it. Nice color and a good design. I use two stitch rows pretty often, and I think it makes holsters look more aesthetically pleasing....(wow, that was a big word...my brain hurts now)... I think that you will manage to have a pretty good holster come out of this, and you will learn a lot from it to boot. What machine do you use? Mine is on a servo motor that runs so slow I don't easily make mistakes like that, not that I haven't anyway. I look forward to the Ruger holster. Have you heard about their spiffy new .380 they will release soon? One more gun mold to track down.

So when are we gonna see pics of the finished holsters? You're killin' us here.........

There are some good instructions on here by different folks on how to make a pattern, so first check that out. Next, try drawing a belt onto your pattern paper and putting the gun on top of it at the ride height you want. Then figure out a design that will make that happen. It's gonna take a while to figure out how to do stuff, but that's good. You might come up with a better way and tell us so we can improve . Concerning the molding, a lot of people use saran wrap around their pistol before they mold it, and then they oil and clean it after the molding is finished. I would recommend going that route. As forthe leather weight, I would start out using what you've already got and see how it performs. If you don't have anything yet, I would suggest some 7/8 oz leather as a starting point, or some 8/9 if you're really worried about stiffness (but you'll have a harder time working with this weight).

Fun with leather dye?

Jordan, If you want to raise this one a little just cut 1/4" off the bottom of the pattern, and raise the gun that much too accomodate the difference. I think you have enough material on your sweat shield that it shouldn't make a big difference.

Howdy kagekeeper. Randyc is right about not wearing a belt with a paddle holster. It's not a good idea, and if you're gonna carry for long periods of time it will get just down right uncomforatable. When I make paddle holsters, I use kydex for mine, and attached it with two t-nuts reinforced with rawhide inside the throat piece. It took me a while to come up with this design. Needless to say my first attempt didn't come out quite like I planned. If I were you I would buy some low grade leather and make three or four holsters before you decide to try the paddle design. For the needs you descibed, I would recommend an IWB to start with. It's easily removable, and when you're more comfortable making holsters and you want to build the paddle style, you can use the IWB as a basis for your pattern. You don't need a press to get good results on your holsters. I only use one to increase production. I know there are a lot of makers that still don't use them at all.if you don't want to use kydex for the design, leather is just fine, as long as you also add a snap loop to keep the holster in your pants when you draw. The paddle will give stability to the platform, and the loop will hold it in place. Concerning the professional look, until you get a lot of experience, less is more. The more detail you try to add to the holster, the more you will add scars, marks and other imperfections to the project. When you're ready to mold your holster, dip it in warm water (with a drop of dish soap in it) just long enough to get damp. Leave it alone until it feels almost dry to the touch. Now use your fingers, thumbs, and knuckles to press the leather around the shape of your pistol. Step back for a few minute and do something else. When you come back to the project, take a look and decide where a few of the most destictive features are. Run a thin but smooth object along the edge of those features in only a few places to add some "sharpness to the look of the holster. Don't go overboard or you're probably gonna mess it up, and anyway less is more. Don't keep hitting the same spot for better definition either, or you will make multiple definition lines in one spot, making the project look messy. Just make one pass and leave it, good or bad. It doesn't have to look exactly like the gun, or even be a straight line. It just needs to look clean and simple and it will make a world of difference to the over all look of your holster.

That looks great to me. I would never think that any mistakes were ever made on it.

I'm anxious to see how it turns out! Have you thought about raising the height of the pistol in relation to the holster so there is a little more room for your fingers to grip the gun unobstructed? Any how, I like the design and I can't wait for the follow up pictures.

Thanks guys. I appreciate the compliments, but I assure you there is still plenty of room for improvement. To answer your question, Regis, both of these holsters were constructed from 8/9 oz. grade "b" Herman Oak steer hide, for the main body and the throat piece. These particular holsters also have a steel re-inforced throat, as per customer's request. Hidemechanic, I use a modified shop press to bring out the initial shape, then I do the rest by hand. The tools I use most often include a bone folder, the round end of a dye holder from a very old tap and dye set, a piece of white-tail antler, and a stylus like the kind you trace patterns onto leather with. It's pretty difficult getting this much detail out of the 8/9 oz. leather, and I must admit that I have been considering switching weights and possibly brands. WaG35 and Jordan, I know what it's like starting out with this style of holster. Expect to waste a lot of money figuring it out! Every time I start feeling pretty good about my leather work, I just look at the garbage bag full of mistakes and that puts my ego in check for a while. Last night I was over at my parents' house for dinner, and my mom surprised me with a couple holsters and a mag holder I made like nine years ago. Now that was embarrassing........ I think they were my fourth and fifth holsters or something like that.You won't find any pictures of those on here!

Hi folks. I don't see too many holsters posted here so I thought I would throw these on just for the heck of it. They aren't anything special, just tomorrow's shipment. Any critiques are welcome, as I realize there is still lots of room for improvement. One is for a Glock 19, and the other is for a Springfield XD45 Compact. Sorry about the quality of the photos, but I'm not much of a photographer.

Thanks, everybody, for the suggestions. I appreciate all the help. One of the generous posters on here has come to my rescue.

Yep. We might have to trade notes some time.

I want to build some edge burnishers like the kind in John Bianchi's videos to save some time. Does anyone have a source for thick sheets of 100% wool felt like what is used in saddle lining or blankets? I haven't had much luck with an internet search, as everyone I've found either sells very thin sheets or only sells in very large quantities. I would really appreciate any help you guys could give me. I would be happy to purchase some directly from someone on here as well, if any is avilable.Thanks, Jeff

The processed shark has been, well, "processed" so that the skin is not rough to the touch and is very pliable. The scale pattern is visible if you look close, but all of the barbs are removed. Most holster makers use the smoother skin. My friends all really like the rough stuff, but I don't usually ship them out to customers because that is not the norm, and they might think I was ripping them off some how.

Your masks are great, but Derryn is kinda creepy..........

Wow. I bet that made things interesting.

Hey Rancyc. Stuff's lookin' good. When you start doing more pocket holsters you might consider making the muzzle sit lower in the holster so the over all height is shorter. If they get too tall the backstraps may show out the pocket a little with jeans and some shorts. One thing that will save you some time later is to buy leather with a sanded back. It makes a better surface to grab the pocket, it looks cleaner, and it's uniform enough that your maker's stamp will show up well. Don't be afraid to go a little over board with the anti moisture treatment with those little buggers either. They need all the help they can get to repel moisture in the warmer months.

With the unprocessed shark, I first hit it with sand paper, then condition it with bick 4. After that I dye it. If you plan to put it on a holster, mix alchohol or dish detergent to the water in a more concentrated amount than usual to help it absorb more and stretch better. After all that, I usually hit it with a cloth wheel to give it some extra sheen before I coat it with Angelus 600, a flexible acrylic finish. I might be taking way too many steps, but I've had good results with this method. I like to use unprocessed shark in my IWB holsters 'cause it helps the shirts stay tucked over them.

OK...pretty much across the board, most of the more popular custom makers use 7/8 for belt holsters and 6/7 for IWB, unless smooth lined holsters or exotic hides are involved. I use 8/9 on most of my belt holsters and 6/7 for most of my IWB, but I use other weights as well, depending on what results I want to achieve.

Yup. Your fate is now sealed. Don't ever get payed to do it or there's no going back to a normal life.

Beautiful work. The top sheath is my favorite. Some day I will try my hand at making knives........when I have time......

It looks fine to me, but I am definitely no authority on sewing machines. You probably should start a thread in the sewing machie section and ask some of the pros.