rgerbitz

I mark the middle of my strings and the middle of my core then will tie the strings to the core at this point. I will put half of the strings in a bar and then braid the other half down. There is no ceramony to how I start, I usually have to undo some of the braiding when I start back in the middle to get everything started in the right direction. Hope this helps, Rob

Here you go Julia, there is some info on the string cutters here. And Whitebuff is the name of the guy here that is making a string cutter. Rob

Hey all, Thank you for the kind words, everyones advice and encouragement here has done quite abit to help me along. Casey, This is how I mark bosals and hobbles. I cut it into the inside of the popper on the reins. Thought about getting a stamp but sweetie says this looks more personnal. Not sure myself, but for now it works.

Hello Julia, You are welcome. The string cutter in the pictures was made at a local machine shop for me for $50. I have since bought a cutter that Brian Neubert sells it works a little better due to the ability to fine tune it for beveling. Something I could do with the other with a little time. I couldn't find it quickly, but someone here was making and selling a cutter/beveler that a few people have and seem to like. Maybe someone else can chime in with the details. I had some pictures of mine all taken apart but I can't seem to find them either. Yes you can make your own or have one made or buy ones that are already made to sell. Hope this helps more than hinders, Rob

Hey all, Denise, I have never kept track but it is possible that with the time spent scraping hair and flesh off to cutting the string, there is an equal split between string prep and braiding. I imagine that buying hides ready to cut into string would leave me ahead in time and money, but hell thats half the fun. TeamRoper, I used 3, 3/8 inch wide strpes of rawhide. It makes for a very nice feel to the bosal, firm not ridged. Hey knothead, Hope these pictures give you a better look.

Here are the first set of reins I have completed, a simple 5/8 bosal, and a bracelet for sweetie. Let me know if there is any thing you see that I could be doing to improve. Thank you Rob

Art and Steve Thank you for your reply, be sure and use the smallest words possible, I have only used a awl and needle to this point. I think I will go ahead and get it. I think I will be needing some more help once I get it here. Aside from posting on this forum are there any sources for help in the way of parts and etc... Rob

Hello Enteindo, Does Horseshoe Brand make any ferrules. Seems like they crank out most everything else tack related. As for a splitter I use the tandy high tech splitter and get along fine. I have been able to use a couple of others that where better made and they still split it down the way that was needed. Rob

Hello Everyone, I am hoping to gain some insight from some of the experts here. A friend of my fathers has a Pfaff 145 h4 6710 that has been taking up space in his garage since the 80's. He told me if it something that I can use that he would be happy to allow me to "store" it for him. I have been making lined spur and slobber leathers and am planning on doing some more chinks, chaps and the like. Will this machine be able to do that? I suppose some of the thichest I might sew would be 18 oz. all together. (brest collars and such). Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time, Rob

With what you are trying to build in making the wall or crown knot I would select only 4 strands of the 8 braid to make the knot you can use all of them but it seems to be a bit diffecult to get everything pulled down nice. Rob

If you are going to be doing much braiding I would recommend buying the book Encyclpedia of Rawhide and Leather Braiding. In it you will find all you need to make most any kind of braided gear. What you are showing here as a braclet is how some of us make what is called a San juan style hondo. You start in the middle of 4 strings and make about an inch of a 4 plait braid. You then make a loop and braided an 8 plait as long as is needed. Then thread every thing through the loop you previously made and tie some sort of terminal knot. Which you can cover with any variation of a turks head knot. If none of this is clear, buy the book. Rob

It should come off though it may take a little longer. The Leather Chemist's told me that lime works at removing the hair from the flesh side, so the better job you can do taking the fat and meat off the better and quicker the lime will work. If you through in some soap with the lime it will help some. Rob

I use a boning or fillet knife and cut all the fat and crap off. I know some folks use a draw knife and have what the call a fleshing beam, something like what KAW uses when he is removing the hair in his tutorial. Rob

I just use whatever they are selling at the grocery store. Rob

After an all day braiding session my whole back and shoulders can get pretty sore. Some of the things that I have done to help with that are to raise my work bench up so that when working on braiding anything in a vise I can either stand or sit on a bar stool with out having to slump over. When working on knots I find it helpful to rest an elbow on the bench wether I am sitting or not. Otherwise I find myself about bent in half wondering why all the blood is rushing to my head. Rob

Dang Kevin, your work sure sets the bar high for the rest of us. It all looks very well made. Rob

Made some hobbles for the SBA, and the hondo are some of the first ones I've made. Wondering if anyone has ever weigthed thier hondo and if so what might you use? Thanks for look'in Rob

Man, to bad Texas is so far away. Best wishes on your day. Rob

Holy craft!!! I struggle with the knots on the end of bet hobbles due to the small size. Your stuff is amazing. Thank you for sharing. Rob

That's right Shelly, I have not had any troubles with spots. Rob

It's galvanized mesh that I picked up at a farm store. It was sold as rabbit cage flooring. It is pretty heavy duty. Rob

What summer, when did that happen? Very nice looking hanger, it will take an exceptional looking bosal to match it. Rob

Yes sir, I use a draw gauge. This is the one I use, its the only one I've ever used, wouldn't know if there is any advantages to the other ones. I did try and use just a good sharpe knife once, but my patience ran out about 2 feet in and I went back to use the draw gauge. Rob

This is how I do it now. It's different from how I was doing it last year and I might be doing things different next year. But this is how I am doing it now. Nothing I do is original I have stolen just about every idea I've ever had on any subject. I start with a hide that has been dehaired and has dried in a frame. I cut the whole thing out, role it up and toss it in a stock tank, then go to bed. The next morning, after coffee and conversation with sweetie I go out and haul the limp, soggy hide out of the water and let it hang for about an hour or two. Then I cut the whole thing into a 3/4 inch strip. This last hide gave about 475 feet. I then take that strip and run it through the splitter and get it all down to the same thickness. After that it is back out to the corrals where the whole strip is stretched out between some post and left to dry for a day or two.(depends on humidity) When that has dried the whole thing gets waded up into one giant tamale and dunked in a garbage can full of water for about 20 minutes or until it starts to feel like half cooked spaghetti. It's taken out and shook out real good then place in some garbage bags for a few hours to a day or so to temper through. This strip will have a curl in it that needs to be taken out before any other string can be cut from it. I run it through on old ax handle with a slit cut in it. Now I can start cutting string to width, after that is done everything is splitt down to its final thickness. And finally beveled. I only bevel two sides. (Because I'm lazy) I have several barrels with the tops cut off that I employ when cutting, beveling, or splitting. All sting goes into and come out of these. It helps to keep the string from getting stepped on and tangled up if it needs to be moved. And if I need to leave to do something else I can just slip a plastic bag over the top and keep my moisture in there. If I have to be gone long I will set a glass of water down in there and it will keep the moisture right for days. Always remember to put something on the end of the string if you are going to drop it in the barrel it will save alot of time trying to fish out the end. If I know I will be using the string in the next week or two I will put in the humidor. There is about an inch of water in the bottom with enough clorox in it to kill most living things. This helps to keep mold down to a minimum. I think I got it all in here. If you have any question just ask and I'll make something up. If you have something to add please do I am far from having this all figured out. Rob Gerbitz

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/home/de...avlocation=left I use the 2 prong lacing needles and have tried the Lok eye needles. Either work just buy a bunch of them. You can go through them pretty quick. Rob