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I am wondering if I am using the wrong terminology to describe the numbered spacers that coincide with needle size and the circular thin shims that go on the shuttle retention ring/hub (that locks the shuttle and spring loaded back plate in operating condition via two outside screws). Are the numbered needle guard spacers actually called shims, and the thin circular rings for adjusting the distance between the needle scarf and bobbin hook called spacers and not shims? I ran into an anomaly when I was reinstalling the shuttle (and feed dog carrier) cam/shaft. Apparently under normal installation the cam is inserted into the bushing and pushed all the way in until it stops against the shoulder of the bushing housing. That is supposed to be a fixed factory position that governs the end play. I was told that this is then secured with the small screwed hub directly behind the housing up against the backside of the bushing housing, and with the larger split ring where the cam shaft inserts over the tapered shaft. Problem: this placed the final shuttle position into conflict so the shuttle hook stabbed about half way in on the needle shaft. A quick call to Allen at Weaver and I learned on rare occasions the cam will need to be moved out a tiny amount away from the forged bushing housing and then re-secured with the small hub (with two small screws) that shoulders up against the cam/shuttle housing on the back side and with the split hub that holds the cam shaft and the tapered shaft together. The gap between the shuttle hook and needle scarf then had to be fine tuned with the flat circular shim (spacer?) while it was in the timing position. Not sure I described the process well. I have been trying to use the correct terminology for the various parts, but it is entirely possible I got the part descriptors wrong. I am finding there is a steep learning curve with this machine and its hundreds of pieces.

This has been quite a journey for a sewing machine novice, lol. It is like driving a Ford and changing the oil on occasion to rebuilding a Mercedes Benz.

No, Weaver did not mention this. I did have to use the spacers when I reinstalled the shuttle/cam shaft for end play, and this was with the stock Adler shuttle. Trail and error until the right combination was achieved. The thinest shim did it for my Beast. To be such a good machine it seems they could have engineered a better solution than shims. But it works.

It is a mess in the work area at the moment. I'll clean up a bit and take a few photos of the Beast's new heart.

O.k., the servo and speed reducer are installed! Wow! What a difference! I would say it is down to about two stitches per second pedal to the metal on the lowest setting. I am able to slow it slightly more with the foot pedal, but it is inconsistent. I would like to slow it down a little more. The servo has a three inch pulley -- would a two inch pulley on the servo make any appreciable difference? Here is a quick sample. Ignore the dark holes where the needle penetrates. I got heavy handed with the oil Still working on stitch length in reverse and positioning. The first three stitches are ok in reverse, but they get longer after that point. And try as I may otherwise, the stitch in reverse lays beside the primary stitch. Because of the thickness of the thread (347)? Also, I have to rotate the stitch length lever about a dozen times to add a stitch per inch or reduce a stitch per inch. Is that normal? It seems like a lot of rotating the lever for minimal results.

That I did not ask, but good question.

Thanks for the idea. I will definitely be doing this until I can put together a motorized winder like Tim's.

I talked to Weaver today, and yes, a clone shuttle can be used -- with a proviso: the manufacturer needs to state it will work on the Adler 205 series.

A lot of great ideas shared on this forum. Thanks Tim and TT. I looked on eBay and found some reasonably priced sewing machine motors, bobbin tires, etc. One of these is in my immediate future.

Thanks for the advice. I have made some sample pieces and am trying a number of solutions. I will certainly try your suggestion as well. Thanks.

Murphy's law strikes. The servo and speed reducing pulley arrived. However, the servo is designed to hang to the left side -- presumably for a flatbed machine. So, if I hang the motor in the same place as the current clutch motor the dial and activation lever will be on the back side instead of the front side like the clutch motor. It has a reverse switch, so that is not the issue. My clutch motor hangs to the right side. So does the reducer pulley hang underneath the hand wheel of the machine on the front side of the table (as does the current clutch motor) and the servo toward the back of the table, or do I put the servo in the same place as the clutch motor and the pulley toward the back and elongate the slot in the table for the belt, which will then come in from the back side of the table instead of directly below as it is now. Anyone have any photos?

What is the size and speed of the motor? I need to make one of these after converting my machine to a servo and speed reducer the bobbin winder no longer fits. Where can I get the rubber wheel for the motor? Thanks.

Thanks, Wiz. I'll give that a try. I just cut out a holster from this leather to experiment with it. After I glue it up I'll try your remedy before I stitch it. New servo and speed reducer for the Adler 205-374 arrives today! I should be a sewing maniac by the end of the week!

I discovered the fracturing on the backside of the leather by the needle is not a sewing machine issue. The prefinished leather I obtained from a company that went out of business about six years ago is now dried out. The double layers stitched here are fine on the top stitch, but fractured on the bottom layer, which actually displays another "top". Does anyone know of a conditioner I can put on this prefinished veg tan that will make it supple again and not prone to fracturing where the needle punctures on the back side? Here is the top side of the same piece showing the stitching as the needle enters. It is acceptable. As it exits on the bottom side, the dry leather finish fractures as it is no longer supple. Hoping to find an answer so I can use this leather. It is otherwise very good stuff.

Anyone have an answer for this? Will the clone shuttle work on the Adler 205-374?

Use the same ink pen on a piece of scrap leather to experiment and test products. Try Fiebings deglazer. It might remove the ink with an application or two -- or three.

Thanks, George. That is the kind of information I am fishing for. In re-reading the prior comments, George's comment made me realize I may not have been clear when I said I used "two coats" of Weldwood. One coat on both pieces; dry; second coat on each piece; dry; join the pieces. Two coats on each piece, not a total of two from a single coat on each piece. Even with two complete coats on each piece the Weldwood failed.

Back in the day before I finished post-grad studies and went on to other things I was a cabinetmaker. We used Weldwood every day to laminate countertops and apply expensive veneers to cabinet substrates. Occasionally we used heatguns to speed the process but most of the time it was not necessary -- especially on days where the Texas summers made it necessary to apply the glue quickly so it would not tack up before we were ready. I have used it for years and I never had it fail until this particular belt. It did not fail because of improper application, or bonding the leather before the glue was ready to adhere. The leather was of good quality and the backs were not fuzzy or less than smooth. I suspect Dwight is correct and this particular can of Weldwood was contaminated from the factory. Or, there was sloppy quality control on a batch. Has anyone had this experience with Weldwood -- or with Barge? By the way, in this discussion of technique using contact cement I would strongly recommend the j-roller that is normally used to bond laminate to substrate in countertop construction. The medium to hard rubber roller on a (sometimes curved) longish handle applies a lot of pressure without marring the leather. Much better than the metal leather roller; dead blow hammers, etc.

I appreciate the comment, but no, there was no foreign matter or contamination. It did not get thick or stringy, it looked normal, but it failed. I have used Weldwood for a long time and this is the first time I have had a problem. I put two coats on each piece and let it dry until tacky between each coat. It simply failed. It could be the luck of the draw or the odd can of cement that does not prove the rule. But it failed. Because it failed it made me think of the comments about the superiority of Barge by other leather working pros. Barge users, what say you?

I am tossing the can of Weldwood that separated. I will pick up a small can of Barge and give it a try -- unless I get a dozen posts telling me it is junk, lol. Thanks.

I bought two nice large double shoulder prefinished leathers from a company that went out of business about six years ago. Getting them home, I examined them and tested a few scraps in the sewing machine. They seem dry and the needle fractures the backside in a way that is obvious. What can I do to rejuvenate this leather and make it more supple, pliable and workable?

No, on these expensive belts I am overly cautious because I do not want customer dissatisfaction. The leather I selected was firm as opposed to soft. Two coats of Weldwood (my standard practice), dried to tacky at 72 degrees and twenty minutes and joined. I use a j-roller to bond the leather straps and this is rolled at 45 degrees on the edges -- not a mallet or weights. In short, I am somewhat obsessive-compulsive about these things because I don't want a glue line on my edges, lol. The Weldwood failed in a few places. First time it has happened, but it did. If Barge is better, I will switch. I am a pragmatist in that regard. A few extra bucks on Barge doesn't bother me, if it is indeed better. But is it?

I have always used Weldwood Contact Cement for my holsters and belts. But on the last belt I came across an edge that had separated a little -- even though I typically use two coats before joining the two straps. I have read a number of places where holster and belt makers swear by Barge Cement. Is it better than Weldwood, or is this a tomato/tomatoe kind of thing?

By the end of next week the Beast should be tamed -- hopefully. Thanks everyone. I will post follow-up when the installation and testing is complete.

All of your answers and suggestions convinced me to break the monthly budget: I just ordered both the servo and the speed reducer along with new belts. It struck me that if I tried to make a diy reducer or buy different size pulleys for the machine itself I would be spending almost as much as the price of the commercial reducer. Plus, the comments and suggestions indicated I probably would not be happy with the lack of torque in the servo without the reducer and I felt like using a reducer with this old clutch motor would not be the best for me -- since I cannot sew well yet. So, I bought what was needed so I would only cry once. I will sell that extra Porter Cable router on craigslist to save my budget. Thanks for all your help, it is very much appreciated.