Docado

Hello, Sorry that I missed this ! Yes I still have it. 62295. Let me know if I can be of more help. Will keep a closer eye on it. Thanks for inquiry. Kirk

I still have it. Let me know if there is something that I can answer for you. Thanks Kirk

Hello Kara, I have had it about 2 years. I used it to cut leather items,spur straps, bridles, key fobes and such. Nothing is included. Cutting bed is in very good shape. You are more than welcome to come and try it. If I was looking to get one, I would hope that I could find one in as good a shape as this is. My preference is used over new account of the cost savings... Will try to get some pic's if interested. Thanks for your consideration Kirk

Hello Kara, Yes I still have it....... It is for sale because I do not need two clickers and I need the space it occupies. 1 1/4 inch dies are recommended, but you may use 3/4 inch if you use 1/2 inch plastic cutting board for a spacer. If you go to Tippmann Web Site and bring up 1500 Clicker it will give all the specs. The address below ought bring it right up. http://tippmannclicker.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=185 Hope that answers your questions if not just holler........Thanks for your interest.....Kirk

Tippmann 1500 Clicker is in like New Condition........For sale. $2400.... St. Louis, Mo. Area. May pick up of arrange shipping at your expense. Questions welcome. Thanks Kirk

I have a Ferdco 440R that I am interested in selling. I had Cobra Steve check it out. " Said that it sews perfectly. " Asking $1000. is complete. Has clutch motor. Speed Reducer, Table. Located in St. Louis, Mo. Area. PM if you need more info or pic's. Thanks, Kirk

Will take if still available: Western Holster Making by John Bianchi, 3-tape, VHS format - $30 (One paper sleeve is pretty rough, but tape is fine.) Shipping - $8 Thanks, Kirk

Please allow, thank you.

Hello, I know that this is probably not much help, but it is what I would do if I was having the trouble that you have described; 1st Check needle maybe even change it. Sounds as if thread is to large for needle or needle eye is to small for top thread. 2nd Check thread path. To make sure it did not get an extra turn on something that it was not suppose to be around. 3rd. Check to make sure it has been oiled recently. Most times that mine get messed up it is because it is something that I did not do correctly. Usually something that I should have caught right of the bat, but overlooked. What size of needle and thread are you using and thickness of material ? Good Luck Kirk

If it was mine I would try turning it backward and then forward gently and carefully while trying to observe shuttle and hook at the same time if possible to see what has movement restricted. This is just a guess, but I would suspect thread jammed somewhere. Do not force it, which might cause it to go out of time. Other than that I am all out of idea's. Kirk

Hello, I am not an expert on these. It sounds like you have tripped the safety clutch. A devise that trips to protect your machine from damage when it gets over-taxed. To reset, depress button located @ 1 inch from upright arm. It is on bed inside left of upright . Use a pencil or similar object to depress. Hold down and turn Hand wheel in reverse direction. (clockwise) Keep rotating until you hear or feel a click. Safety clutch should be reset now. Make sure bobbin and shuttle are free of nests or bunches of thread before trying to start sewing again. Good Luck Kirk

Hello, I own a Ferdco Pro 440R that I am interested in selling. Up grading to a Cobra 4. Cobra Steve recently checked it for proper operation and adjustment. Was told that it sewed perfectly. I will not have it until @ the 15th of July. It will be shipped backed to me then, along with new machine. Have pic's if interested. Is complete set up. Clutch Motor, Speed Reducer, Regular foot, Manual, Needles, Thread and Table. Asking $1100. + Shipping. Located @ St. Louis, Mo. Pm if you would like to discuss further. Good Luck in your search! Kirk

Hello Elton, Received my slicker / burnisher a couple of weeks ago. It works very well, you did a great job of making it. Was money well spent for me. Thanks, Kirk

Hello, I saw that this is an old question. I did not see it before. Did you get it fixed ? I have an mechanical clicker that a had a similar problem. If you still need info let me know maybe I can help. Kirk

Hello David. You might consider taking a 4 inch square piece of cardboard to make a pattern. 1 inch from top right hand corner and 1 inch from right side mark intersecting position for hole to be cut out for index finger. Index finger hole to be .5 to .75 inches in dia. Drop down in a straight line from there to @ 1 inch to 1 1/4 inches from top center mark of 1st hole, and make another center mark for position of 2nd finger. Holes for 2nd and 3rd finger are cut out as one oblong hole. Once you have the finger holes cut out, you slide fingers through cut out until 2nd knuckles are sticking out of other side. You will have to cut a slot out between the 1st and 2nd finger to be able to hold the arrow while it is being draw back to shoot. When pattern is adjusted to your sons liking and trimmed you can try cardboard to see if it works ok before making out of leather. Suggest 4/5 oz. or 5/6 oz. weight. No sewing necessary. Guard will normally stay on hand when not in use. You will have to adjust measurements to better fit your sons hand. Hope this helps. Kirk

Hello, I am interested in DVD's. If you are not set on a Boss. I have a Ferdco 440R that you might consider. It has been recently checked and adjusted by Cobra Steve. Will send PM Kirk

Hello Elton, I would like one of these. PM sent. Thanks Kirk

Hello, From what I can see in the pictures there is nothing wrong with this. It appears to be a type of sidepull. It is a type of bridle that is sort of a mixture of old and new equipment. The rope band is ment to put pressure on the horses nose. (It is designed to be the lenght that it is.) At the same time it is designed to be a little easier to get the preferred results faster than what they can be achieved by using a hackmore in the traditional since. As you can see there is no bit attached. It is used to start a young horse without getting in there mouth. It is suppose to teach them to follow there nose. It sort of closely resembles a halter. Thought process being that a bit would cause them to be distracted, and worried about the new piece of metal in there mouth. The nose band is made that way, it is attached to the head stall thru the ring. The strap that is also attacked to the rings is used as a chin strap, as you would adjust on a regular bridle. The reins are attached to the rings through the slobber straps. When pressure is placed on the reins through a pull it puts pressure on the horses nose. He in turn bends his head in the direction of the pull to get away from the pressure. With this type of set up the rider could put a constant pull on the rein. Where the Hackmore is to be used in a pull and release type of application. Hope that helps Good Luck Kirk

Hi Pat, If I were you, I would contact Cobra Steve at Leather Machine Company. He is a member here. I am sure he can lead you in the right direction at the very least. Good Luck! Kirk

This is just a suggestion. You might try checking the two screws in the collar at the end of the arm. If they get loose it would cause the bobbin assembly to have additional play. Could also be the reason for the clicking noise. If the hook moves it may not be in the correct position to pick up the thread, causing skipped stitches. If your machine has a cover on the end of the arm, covering the bobbin and shuttle assembly, open the cover. You should be looking at two screws. They are on the collar @ 3 and 9 o'clock. Looking from the arm end of machine towards the body. Hope that helps. More knowledgeable people will be along soon. Kirk

Try this link http://www.tpub.com/content/aviation/14217/css/14217_53.htm and this one http://www.tpub.com/content/aviation/14218/css/14218_181.htm Good Luck. Hope this helps. Kirk

Interested in clicker dies. Kirk Email me

I am by no means an expert or anywhere close. Looking at my machine from the underneath at the bobbin case, the retainer ring appears to be flat to me. The open space in the ring is where the little arm on your bobbin case fits into when you put bobbin in. It looks to me as a stitch is being made, the top thread comes down with the needle and goes around the bobbin case. As it starts up the other side of the case, when it gets to the top, it slides through the slot in the ring up over the little arm to complete the stitch as it locks with the bobbin thread. I also had trouble at one time with the thread being caught in the feed dogs. It would sew about 4 to 6 stitches and then lock up. It had sewn just fine until I changed the bobbin. It seems to have been that when I put the bobbin back in, I didn't have the thread going the correct way. If you are looking at the back side of the bobbin in the case, the thread comes off the bobbin in a clockwise direction. This is the end that you put in the machine. Good Luck.....Kirk

try sharpsewing.com They have the same type of format for needles that cutters use to have. Kirk