Ian

Johann, from your website, it looks like you like motorcycle art. Here's another cool link for you http://www.ryanlean.com/

Here's an answer to part of your question: http://www.copquest.com/21-2100.htm

Awesome - reminds me of my old Maxwell - but, can he skateboard?

Dave, this site is awesome, for sure. When I was doing that bag, I was super conscious of every little screw-up, because I thought "some eagle eye on the forum will spot that in a second". It can't help but improve quality. I've only been reading this forum for a few weeks and have got tons of outstanding tips. It seems that no matter what question I have, I can find someone else who has already answered it in great depth. The big problem is how addictive it is - the posts go up so fast, I'm scared to miss anything.

I'm in lovely Chicopee Mass, right next door to the even lovlier murder capital of Massachusetts, Springfield. Ian

Looks like you've found your unique niche - great idea. Western hats on the skulls and the theme would be complete. You should really develop this as your own signature style - I'm loving it. Ian

Wow...just WOW!

You can see the same construction with this set of bags except these are done with inverted seams and are bolt-ons

(7) I then turn the edges of the back of the gusset to make a flange and let it dry overnight. Then it gets glued to the back panel (8) This picture is the back panel sewn on, along with my big error. I intended to sew the weather flaps onto the gusset before I sewed the back on. As it went, I had to rivet them on after the bag was made. (9) At this point the bag is pretty much assembled. The edges get finished - I also put an ABS liner in - and as with the usual bag design, the straps get attached. Until you are sure your pattern is just right, it's a good idea to attach the buckles and straps last to be sure they all line up. If you're making a set of bags with a yoke, you can rivet it on last (using long double cap rivets - you can get monster rivets from Ohio Travel Bag), or sew it on at the same as you sew the lid to the back panel. If you're making bolt-on bags you need to sew a wide strip of material to the back were the bolts go through - or if you're doing the back panels in hard rubber, it just bolts right through the rubber back. Wait until you line up the bags on the bike before you drill the holes.

(4) After attaching the buckle, I sew on the gusset. I groove the entire inside length on both side about 1/8" further in than I'll be sewing the seam. Don't sew right on the fold, because it's weak. I soak the gusset until it's very soft,. When I'm sewing the two pieces, I hold them separately and guide them together along the edge guide. It's a little tricky going around the corners, just remember to keep the gusset going straight and turn the front panel as you sew. Another thing, it's easier to make the gusset longer than you need and cut it off after than to trust your measurement that it will end up exactly on the other side. (5) Gusset sewn on (6) Next I sew The flap/lid onto the back panel

When I made the last little bike bag, I took pictures as I was doing it to share with another leathercraftsman. Maybe someone could use some of the info. First, this method works for any size or shape of saddlebag, whether its a slant, straight, big bagger style or the little single bobber bag I just did. You can either make the seams lap, like this one, or invert the seams by sewing the bag inside out and then turning it. The only thing with inverted seams is that turning them rightside out is a real muscle job and you need to soak the bag until it's soft. This is the first saddlebag I've made with undyed leather. I've always used latigo, bridle or harness leather around 10oz First, make your pattern. There are actually only 2 main pieces to figure out, - the front panel (same as back) and the flap. No need to make a pattern for the gussets. Then, there's small pieces like the weather flaps and buckle chafes. On a set of bags you'll make a yoke. If I'm making a set for a specific bike, I dont bother making the yoke in 2 pieces, becuse the size will never have to be adjusted. The yoke will vary depending on where the seat sits and the rear lights. I do yokes with either 2 layers of 4/5oz chrome tanned, or suede on the inside layer. (1) OK, heres the pieces cut out (2) Next, I stamped the little insert piece for the lid. That's just the design I thought of - usually the flap is just straight across and the straps are added after (3) The lid dyed and assembled. I almost always line my small bags or just the lid on big bags with whatever upholstery or garment leather I have on hand. (note the very obvious stitching screw-up)

I'll have a couple of seats going, but will be in L.A. in June for something else Ian

I vote for the Celtic too - Grump, how about a shot of the interior of the wallet - my next job is a wallet, and I'm trying to get ideas for the pockets Ian

Thanks Ken, I did take pictures as I was building this bag, but the construction isn't that unique (as was yours for the vest - incredible, BTW). I'll throw them up for better or worse when I get home later on this evening.

Thanks Tom and Dave, Tom, I love good edges - a bit of my harness making history. Even a plain old strap looks like a finished product with a good edge on it. Dave, The bag is attached to the frame with 2 straps on top and one on the bottom (PS, how's your set af bags coming? - you KNOW I'll be expecting pictures)

Crystal, I punch a hole in each corner and hang the side from a board with hooks placed every couple of inches - takes up very little space, keeps it wrinkle free and I can hang 5 sides on top of each other

Weaver is in Mt. Hope, Ohio

Dropped this one off today - basketweave courtesy of Bruce's excellent tutorial

Thanks Luke - not for a customer, and I don't play, but after I saw some of the incredible saddles posted on here I wanted to do something Western for my website I'm building, and a saddle is way out of my league.

Finished this one today. I need to find another buckle, but put this one on for the picture. I'm loving the way this color turned out. It is actually British Tan that I sprayed on too heavily, so it's more like a Chinese Red. I'll be using that again for sure.

Apparently, if you're a leatherworker, you get wholesale prices but I do agree that their stuff is pretty flimsy. Ryan Yes, 18.00 is the wholesale price retail is $28.50

W&C will also split your leather at no extra charge, though they don't go below 3oz. I'm up in the air and can't decide if I like Hermann or W & C better. Herman has a softer feel and the grain seems more pronounced, which I like. I like that you can order direct from W&C, and the folks that answer the phone are great. Ian

This post is somewhat of a rant I ordered a buckle set and some conchos for a project I'm doing. The Montana stuff looked good in the catalog, but I was very disapointed in what I got. OK, I know an $18 buckle set is not on the high end as far as things go, but this set is just plain flimsy. The tounge is very thin and the keeper and tip are so thin, I can bend them with almost no pressure at all. On top of that, the buckle, instead of having a regular heel bar has a loop which (along with the tip) indicates that is was intended for at least 11oz leather. Is it normal to use 11oz billets on a ranger belt? So, I thought, maybe this set was intended for tack, but as lightweight as it is, I can't imagine it holding up on a bridle. I am used to heavy weight harness hardware, so I couldn't believe it when I opened the package. The conchos are Ok, but when you spend over 30 bucks plus shipping for conchos and a buckle, you need to charge a decent amount for the belt, so you'd expect there would be some kind of quality to the hardware. Frankly, I have seen better hardware at the Western store on belts made in China (and the whole belt only costs 45 bucks) Sorry to let off steam, but right now, I'm a little P.O. d. I will never purchase from Montana again.

beautiful!

Bruce, thanks for taking the time to post the BW tutorial. I had all but given up on learning until I read your post. After a practice piece I decided to add it to a saddlebag I'm building. Just finished this piece a couple of minutes ago. I can see several places where I went wrong, but now that I understand the method of getting the starting angle, I know the next attempts will be a lot better. Thanks Again Ian