nycnycdesign

Hello all, I bought this old Vergez plough gauge from a chap in hopes of chucking the old trust wooden strap cutter to the side. After a disassembly and cleaning, I noticed this significant crack next to the blade. It looks like this was from decades of over tightening the front blade set screw. I'm curious if any of you have thoughts on fixing this. Whether it would even be possible? Quite a bummer as the seller didn't list this issue and it certainly wasnt in the photographs.

Is this still available?

Did you ever get the PVC spacers? I spoke with Sergey and he said they worked well but I'm having doubts about their longevity.

In case future leatherworkers have a similar question. Campbell Randall sells bushing adapters that will let you do exactly this

I think alot of us are in the same boat in this respect. No space or $$ for a full on line finisher but maybe able to afford a good bench buffing motor. The problem is that most landis/sutton brushes have a 1 5/16" bore so it wont fit on a 3/4" arbor. They also dont seem to make horsehair buffing wheels in any smaller diameters (like 3/4") Does anyone have any ideas as far as a suitable adapter? Fitting a 1 5/16" brush on a 3/4" arbor? Machine shops are quoting 300-400 for a milled adapter but that seems way over priced. Wheel http://www.shoesystemsplus.com/Horse-Hair-Brush-for-Sutton-Supreme-Landis-Auto-Soler_p_272.html Buffer https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-1-hp-buff-motor-dual-speed.html

Figured I would reply here in case someone googles this machine down the line. I ended up buying it from Weaver but returned it faster than I've returned something before. It really doesnt work well at all. The build quality is below par and the wiper blades had casting marks that required filing down before it would fit under the main reservoir. Even after a decent amount of adjustments and testing it produced a very uneven dye line and was an absolute mess to work with. I don't think weaver sells many of these because the foam pads that were sent with mine were so old they had yellowed and were on the verge of crumbling. Even with replacement rollers the damn thing never managed to dye evenly. The pressure isnt equally maintained on either side so it causes the strap to twist on its axis while its pulled through making the end result even sloppier. Hope this helps anyone on the fence. Feel free to post here if you have any questions about the machine. It was really a let down.

Hello all, In an effort at cutting down labor time I've been debating this Weaver tool. Has anyone had experience with it? It seems rudimentary (altho expensive) but would seem to do the trick really well. Anyone have any encounters with them? Does it leave a clean dye line? https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/65-6015/heritage-dye-box-ii/pr_9029

Hello all, In the constant quest to find the most versatile machine I've settled on a narrow adler cylinder to suit my needs best. My question relates to the often debated buying new versus buying old (from reputable dealer). A new Adler 669, with all the bells and whistles, costs around $5k whereas a reputable dealer is selling some nicely maintained older Adler 69's for about $2,500 shipped on a pedestal table. Do you all feel that theres a benefit to going new versus old when it comes to these machines? As mentioned, the older ones come from a reputable dealer so no hypothetical quality issues.

Hello all, Has anyone had any luck attaching a shop vac system to the scrap chute on a regular skiving machine? It seems like it could have enough suction to make a difference and limit scraps wrapping around the feed wheel. I'm thinking of rigging something up but wanted to see if anyone had any experience doing something similar. I figure the shop vac hose could connect to a reducer like in the pic below and then find some piece of ducting that could fit relatively snug with the chute below the table. Here's the machine I'm using.

Hello all, I am using a FAV AV2 skiving machine from our friends at Campbell Randall. This is a classic fortuna clone. The manual says to lubricate with a medium density oil. Does this relate to viscosity? Would one be able to oil these machines with regular lily white sewing machine oil? I missed the cutoff today to give Randall a call and wanted to sort this before Monday so any help and guidance when it comes to lubricating these machines would be most appreciated. Many thanks

Ivan, do you still make your burnisher?

Just passing along some info although this an old thread. These guys based out of Montreal carry all types of leather binding tape and can split and cut down hides you send them. Waiting on my first order to come in from them but Reuben, the owner, seems like a good guy. http://www.cooper1001.com/language/en/ I'll post an update when I get the binding in but I'm fairly optimistic.

Thanks Bob! Was actually going to give you a call soon about a skiving machine. Still not having any luck with this Landis unfortunately. With enough fiddling I can get it to skive heavy vegtan in the 8oz+ range but never anything lighter. Any thoughts?

Thank you Bruce. I gave it a go and the rollers engaged the leather well. Unfortunately as the leather passes through it slides over the top of the blade. I played with the set of thumb screws in the back that adjusts the height and andgle of the blade and it's still not cutting. I'll try and get a video or some more pics later.

Hey everyone, Picked up this old Landis Model 15 from a buddy down in Kentucky. It looks like your average 3-1 with what looks like only 2 of the 3 functions. It has a cutter and a skiver/splitter. I've had the blade on the skiver reshaped and its mighty sharp. Managed to get it to skive to a feather on heavier 8+ oz leathers but I'm curious if anyone has any idea if it can be set up to skive down thinner leathers in the 3-5oz range. I understand its primary function is for cobblers working soles but I figured I'd reach out just in case. Cheers all

Hey all, I use #12 copper rivets daily in my work and always get freat results with the Douglas 3 piece setter. I decided ro try a smaller size and grabbed a box of both Osborne and Weaver #14's to test them out. Also picked up Bob's #14 setter. Here where I ran into problems. When setting the #14's into various thickness, whether it be 3oz veg or heavy harness, often times the burr will set and then slip off the post with very little effort. I always clip to 1/8th" and then dome lightly and rarely do I get a good looking set that doesnt end up popping out. Anyone have similar trouble with #14's? They sure seem finnicky and Im hoping someone might have some insight into why this happens. Thanks all and happy holidays.

Thank you all for weighing in. It's a fortunate thing to have knowledgeable folks willing to lend a hand. I truly appreciate it. Thank you.

Hey all, Just got back from looking at this nice old Adler cylinder bed. Seller is asking 2300 with table and servo. Runs very nice and puts down a good stitch. I've had very few runins with adlers over the years (minus my cobbler neighbors beautiful old stitcher) so I wanted to see what you all thought about them. Thanks for your opinions in advice, always a huge help.

Art and Colt, thank you for your advice on this. Seriously saved me what I assume would be a ton of headaches. Sincerely appreciate it.

When I first looked at it I saw that 'tar like substance' just like you said. Definite no go for me! Thanks fellas!

Thanks for the response, Art. I have a call out to the mechanic to see what he thinks. Unfortunately the guy won't drop the price (1k w/ table) which makes me think he's going to sell it off to someone else and bury its linseed filled history. Do ya'll think a heavy dose of lily white could help clean it out?

Boiled Linseed. Apparently the tech said it's sewing again but I'm weary of dropping 1k on a machine that has that stuff gunked up all in it. Thanks for you advice Colt.

Thank you in advance for your advice everybody. Long story short I finally found a cylinder bed machine on craigslist that was adequate for what I needed. It was a Techsew GC2603 and had only been used under 10 hours. Really good shape and the price was right. Sat down to give it a test on some 6 oz veg tan and the machine locked up. I figured it was the hook assembly and told the guy that he would have to get it serviced before I would consider buying it. Tech comes out today to look at the machine. Turns out the owner had been using Linseed oil to oil up the machine. "Someone told me that was fine." According to the tech that's what caused the components to jam up. So my question for you is whether or not this is something I should consider buying even if it sews right. How bad could Linseed be?

Blackmarket on Etsy is good as well. I've picked up a few custom stamps from them and they've always been reasonable. https://www.etsy.com/people/nigalw