aaljarbou

Hi Harry, Could you tell us which of the swatches you posted are which dye? Thanks!

This sounds like the most workable solution at the moment, but Bill's solution is definitely intriguing and I will want to try it out with 1 or 2 less holes on the inside gusset. I will also try to cut out a "V" as suggested in the other thread. I imagine it works like in the attached image. You guys are the best!

There is something I don't quite understand about these type of U shaped gussets. Is there any way to prevent the inside make sure the U doesn't wrinkle at the stitches? I mean, imagine lying the two pieces flat and chiseling them all the way through. When laid flat, the holes line up when stitching and there is no problem, but when you curve the two pieces into a U shape and start stitching, the inside U piece will start to wrinkle. This is because the space between two stitching holes on the inside piece are now slightly shorter than the space between two stitching holes on the outside piece. Does that make sense? Does anyone have any thoughts on this problem?

Beautiful pouch. Did you stitch with an awl? There is something I don't quite understand about these type of U shaped gussets. If you are making something larger or with thicker leather or even with a rounder shaped U, how do you make sure the inside U doesn't wrinkle? I mean, imagine lying the two pieces flat and chiseling them all the way through. When laid flat, the holes line up when stitching and there is no problem, but when you curve the two pieces into a U shape and start stitching, the inside U piece will start to wrinkle. This is because the space between two stitching holes on the inside piece are now slightly shorter than the space between two stitching holes on the outside piece. Does that make sense? Does anyone have any thoughts on this problem?

Not really, I think it works alright when I hammer down the knot. I will try a star stitch next to see how they compare and then upload a photo.

Hi, thanks so much for the feedback. I did as suggested, but without the overhand knot behind each cross. I finished it with a surgeon's knot. The one on top has holes made with a 2mm hole punch and the lower one with a stitching awl and twisted around.

I would like to know this, as well. I like to do surface dyeing in vinegaroon so that I can maintain the natural color on the flesh side, therefore, I am loathe to do full dunking in baking soda mix and therefore only wash the surface in baking soda (usually within half an hour of dying), which does not end up eliminating the smell, but I hope gets rid of some of the acidity. Does anyone think that full dunking is necessary? Is it also good to wait a day or so before applying the baking soda?

Hi everyone! I am trying to bind two pieces of leather with either a single cross stitch (X) or a star stitch (*). The picture below gives you an idea what I am talking about. I know how to make a continuous cross stitch, as you would for wrapping leather around a steering wheel, for example, and I can try that principle for a single stitch, but I feel that there is no way to do it without ending it in a knot, which I am not keen on doing. Any ideas how to avoid that, or advice on a smooth, unobtrusive way to end the stitch? Also, when I cut holes with a pricking iron or a stitching awl I get an unattractive \ / on top and / \ on the bottom and the thread just bunches on one end of the hole. Is it better to poke a round hole with my scratch awl or stamp a small one with a hole bunch you think? Any advice, resources, experiences would be much appreciated