UKRay

This isn't a direct answer to your question, merely an observation, but IMHO using the right presser foot will definitely improve the experience you have of a sewing machine. A machine with a fixed - and therefore unchangeable - presser foot simply isn't going to do the job as well as one that is equipped correctly. I can understand your reason for hanging on the the machine but, in the fullness of time (and I suspect you already know what I'm going to say) you will need to replace the machine if you want to do a wide range of top quality work. If you are happy working to the machine's limitations then hang in there. Just my opinion and worth rather less than you paid for it! Ray

That sums up my opinion very well, Ed. Based entirely on the 'feel' of the thing and not on any knowledge whatsoever! Ray

Steve, As you are undoubtedly the UK's sewing machine guru, I wouldn't begin to argue with you about parts, part numbers or even castings, however my limited personal experience suggests that there may be another, albeit slight, difference between certain Ps and Rs. I have test driven a number of these in the past few months and can say, with absolutely no authority at all, that IMHO Highlead machines seem to have a rather better 'build quality' than the others I have tried. Now, I haven't been near an Artisan machine and I'm not about to discuss which machines I have tried for fear of starting a war, let it suffice to say that, IMHO the new Highleads seem to be more finely 'balanced' than any of the others I have tried. They simply 'drive' better. Given that the parts are ostensibly the same, this suggests that the way the new Highlead machines are assembled/set up may be carried out with more attention to detail. Given that Highlead machines cost more than most, if not all, the other machines, I have begun to think there may actually be a reason! Like I say, I'm simply articulating what I think... and we all know what sort of nonsense I can come out with on occasions!

Monica, My dear and aged mother keeps a football referee's whistle (the sort with a pea in it) by the phone and blows it really loudly into the headset when she gets a sales call. They rarely ring back. She shrieks with mirth every time she does it. Look, it works for her, okay? Ray

Yeah yeah yeah, and I'd come home with fifteen sewing machines not just one! Your reputation preceedes you, Steve. LOL Anyway, cousin Luke says he's coming too; tho I'm not sure Ireland is quite ready for that...

The photography is as good as the cases... A really useful tutorial. Many thanks. Ray

I have spoken to the owner of the Highlead GC24618 and negotiated a deal that involves me going over to Ireland to collect it. Sadly, this means stopping over for a couple of days in Dublin on the way back, staying with some old friends who enjoy eating out in Dublin's very fine restaurants and spending time in pubs and bars listening to music, sampling Guinness and Irish Whisky... This could be a very, very expensive sewing machine! Ray

Great ideas, Pete - but could you please post a few more (bigger) pictures of that cavalry saddler's chest please? I have never seen one before. Ray

The man has got it bad... Pearsonitis is a dreadful affliction too. If you are not careful you end up seeing double! I'm sure the Singer/Seiko will go a long way towards restoring normality... <grin!> I'll stop now.

Hey, Chris - how about a picture of the finished bag? Ray

I ws looking at that machine myself, Art. There is a rather fine looking one on eBay right now. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...alenotsupported I'm confident it would do the job perfectly. At £1800 (inc tax), new, it is a high dollar purchase but I must say I'm delighted with my Highlead and woud be happy to go with them again. I'm keen to hear what the others have to say about this as finding the perfect machine is such a problem. Just one thing, how easy is it to stitch long straight lines on a post machine? Would I need to built a 'table' to fit around the post? Do other people on here use post machines? Ray

Jonny, We are all facing the same problems but IMHO unless you have the ability, machinery, resources to make up goods on demand, the answer is to find a niche area and specialise. For example, if your interest lies in leatherwork for re-enactors take some time to put together a small range of products that would appeal to re-enactors. Then create your marketing materials in a way that would be attractive to re-enactors. This simply means that instead of marketing a single item to a huge group of people you are marketing a number of well chosen items to a carefully targeted small group - this also means your marketing costs will be less and you potential for success will be higher. If you need to save money don't bother with an e-commerce website. Just put together an eBay shop that is focussed on your target market place and keep adding new products to it. I use free Blog sites to promote my leatherwork and direct people to my eBay shop and you can easily do the same. This month I have had three good jobs already from my blog site. It really works but, like everything worthwhile, you have to put the time in before you get the results. If an e-commerce site is what you aspire to then don't miss out on the bargains to be had if you buy an existing site that is failing and re-purpose it with some new graphics and a new domain name. If you choose right you can save a lot of money - just make sure it can be moved to the new domain name before you hand over the cash! IMHO, DIY kits are a great idea as long as you have someone who wants to buy them. As a wholesaler, I sold literally hundred of small neck purse kits in the 1970s but when my retail customer stopped buying I couldn't replace them and never sold another kit. Like I said, you should only make what you are absolutely certain people want to buy. I am currently in the same position as you - feeling my way through the early days of a new business. It isn't easy and yet it is very exciting. Last week I deleted seven items from my eBay shop because they weren't attracting any buyers. I added two more items and have already sold some of each. 'Fine tuning' a business like this will make it work better so concentrate on getting rid of any dead lines and replace them with new and more attractive items. Just don't expect success to happen overnight. It can take years to get it right so the sooner you get started the better! Ray

Thanks for showing the needle board, DJ. When you see the number of processes involved in making a needle you suddenly appreciate why they cost so much. I have broken a few during the past month or so as I learned how the machine works. Each time I winced and thought about the replacement cost. It has been ten days of hard sewing since the last mishap and, with a few big jobs under my belt, I'm feeling a lot more confident but I still don't relish spending hard-earned money on new needles! Ray Thanks, Ryan. Most helpful. Ray

Lovely job, Art. I especially liked the spine. The whole thing is very nicely laid out and well finiished. Ray

I'm looking forward to seeing some pictures too, Josh, and, IMHO, you deserve every success for pressing ahead with this new venture at a time when lesser men are holding back. A few more like you and we might see the recession lift sooner. I do hope you get the support you need from the leatherworking community. I guess we will just have to see what a mustang looks like won't we! Ray

I have also just spent a good ten minutes on your website, Dag. Most impressive. I'd love to know how you cut and shape those helmet segments. They all look so perfect. I have been trying to make a decent pair of turnshoes for quite a while and although I have had some small success I can't say that I have produced anything of saleable quality so far. Hence I was so pleased to see that you appear to have it all sorted! How about creating and sharing a turnshoe tutorial for those of us who only aspire to greatness? Ray

Okay folks, I've finally sorted myself out with the monster Highlead harness leather stitcher, I've got the Singer 29K patching machine situation well under control and now I'm looking for a machine to stitch thin/soft leather. Ideally, I'd like to be able to make some wallets, pouches, basic leather waistcoat/vests and lightweight leather linings for my bags. I'm not looking for the cheapest sewing machine on the market but I do want the best all-round solution so please, take a minute and tell me what make and model you would buy if you could? More importantly why would you buy it? Would I want a cylinder arm or flatbed machine for this work? I suspect a flatbed would be most useful but I'm really not sure. What do you use and what do you think would be best? Thanks for the input, guys. As always, I'm most grateful. Ray

I have it on good authority that the Badger's beloved Pearson may soon be relegated to the second tier and could even be up for sale if the price was right... so much for predictions, eh? Ray

You seem to have quite a number of little marks and scratches on the surface of the leather. This maybe due to one of the following: Long or sharp fingernails, rings, a watch with sharp edged or angular case, a bracelet or maybe you need to be a little more careful where you put your tools down and how you deal with cased leather - you are casing the leather aren't you? You will get much more depth in your carving is you make the leather wet before you start work - this is called casing. Apologies if i've just told you a load of stuff you know already. Ray

You can put my name on your list, Josh. I've seen your woodwork.. Just one thing, I'm a tad worried about buying a 'mustang' - Have you got a tamer version? I'm more a 'lil 'donkey' man myself... Ray

Jonny, the truth is that we would all like to know what sells best! Your best route is to turn the question around and go out and ask people what they want to buy. When you know what is required it is a lot easier to make things that sell... Ray

Ed, I make that about $5 for a ten pack - not too high at all. Mind you, maths was never my strong point! Ray

Okay - I have understood the 'thickness' measurement is either 23/24/25/26 or 160/180/200/230 depending on supplier Now what about the length. I have just purchased three packets of number 26 needles and they are all too short - what happened there? Nobody mentioned length! These are exactly the same size as the needles that fit my Singer 45K but they are too short for the Highlead. Could somebody please tell me what length should I be asking for (and how should I make sure I'm getting the right length as these needles came from a reputable supplier) and how does this measurement fit into the needle numbering/reference system? Ray

Sure, Tippmann is a high dollar product but IMHO, it is clearly the best on the market. I'm not happy with their system for creasing and would suggest you look for a BUSM rotary creaser. I have a couple of them and use them almost every day. They are absolutely invaluable. If you use the Tippmann for creasing and embossing you will spend far too long changing rollers. I like 'one machine, one job' wherever possible. Let me know when you have some rollers for sale! Ray

Most impressive, Pino - I particularly like that hatband. What are you working on now? Ray