dikman

Thanks mate, it's fitted pretty tight, I'm not sure anything could penetrate and I don't want to force it. If I really want to bother I'll just buy another one as they're even cheaper than when I bought this!

Yep, if that's what the customer wants then that's what they get (regardless of having poor taste ).

Be interesting to see what you come up with in the way of adapters as you'll need some way to push in the air release valve. I tried to remove the adapter on my rechargeable unit with the idea of fitting a different airbrush but can't get it off, they must have used some super loctite on it!!!

Regarding the control box if it's the same brand and the menus/settings are the same then there's a pretty good chance they will be interchangeable. The motor, being cast alloy, may have a broken bit of the housing inside?

Yep, they had to develop a magnetic stainless steel so saucepans could work on induction cooktops. Regarding the cheap tool if you file off the corner a little if it's chrome you'll go through it to plain steel, but I suspect it's probably ss.

Something was nagging at me, finally figured it out - the geometric designs mixed with leaves don't seem right to me? Having said that, it really is very nice work and if given the chance that colour should age well. My first effort was boringly plain in comparison.

Now that is COOL! Pretty clever, you taking the pics while your "willing" helper does the work. Incidentally, I like the anvil stand, that's also .

For a first holster effort that's pretty bloody good. Your ammo, however, isn't .45 Colt, it looks like it's 9mm.

I did that once - a snail was fast in comparison! An interesting experiment but not very practical. Bottom line here is the Kinedyne (Hightex) motor is doubtless a good motor but if I had one, which isn't likely given the cost, I would still fit a speed reducer. And I don't need all the other gimmicks fitted to it.

Yep, pass on it. Old machines like that are a) good for restorers, b) good for collectors or c) could be a useful machine for someone who knows what they're doing - IF the price is right. Which it isn't.

http://hightex-solution.com/blog/technology/2024/0425/315.html?1714026959 This is the Hightex site with info on the 750SH model, which I assume is what we're discussing here. There is a video at the end showing it in operation. It does appear to have reasonable torque at slow speed, but no better than running a cheap servo and speed reducer. For a factory maybe it's an advantage not to have to fit a speed reducer so paying a higher price for a servo may make sense? I said earlier though that for the hobbyist is it cost effective? Not for me, particularly with more than one servo, if a cheapy servo dies I'll simply replace it with another cheapy servo (and save $300+). Interestingly, the link shows a 9-coil motor. Gerry does raise a point about heat generation when running a motor very slow.

Its ONLY advantage over other servos is the claimed startup speed of 50 rpm. Just how practical that is in the real world of leather sewing I don't know. All I do know is that with my limited abilities I need to be able to sew slow and know that there is enough torque to punch through heavy leather - which means a speed reducer.

Mbnaegle has pretty well summed it up. A spray mister is not going to give you much control over the area being "sprayed" or allow any sort of detail work. The external mix airbrushes are the best option for what you want to do, they're simple to use, easy to clean and inexpensive. Where I live they often come up on Marketplace pretty cheap.

Gerry, my understanding is that it's simply a Hightex 750w servo with 12 coils to give it lower startup speed and low-end torque, nothing more (other than a higher price because of the extra coils). I still believe that unless someone goes down the path you have to obtain effective slow-speed control and torque then a speed reducer is needed with a servo used for leatherwork (particularly with the big harness stitchers).

Try dying a piece of the leather before you do anything to it, this will tell you if it's the vinegaroon or something you're doing to the leather (highly likely).

I presume the needle is hitting the needle plate? That will happen if you put sideways pressure on the workpiece, been there done that! You have to guide the piece not force it.

Sure looks a lot nicer than the original!

Sounds like you're chickening out from trying it?

You did good!!! Opportunities like this don't come along too often. (P.s., I'm jealous).

I wonder where they got these things from in the olde days when they supposedly used chicken fat?

Excellent job. I particularly like the way you ended the pattern by extending it to the end of the belt, most just stop it at one of the "crosspoints".

Good luck on doing that!

Yep, me too. I got all excited about all the features on my new wiz-bang first servo and Wiz's comments on analog/brush servos with only a speed control knob had me thinking he needs to move with the times. It's only as I've gained more experience that I've realiised he was right all along. If I could get hold of one of those it would be no big deal to modify it to move the knob away from the motor and near the head unit. That would be an ideal setup. Meanwhile I'll stick with my el-cheapo servos and home-made speed reducers as the Kinedyne motor is not going to do anything better, in fact I suspect my setup is better for my needs as I will get more low-end torque with the reducer. Plus it gives me the ability to tweak the operation by changing the pulley sizes to give me even slower speeds with even more torque if needed.

Nice blogs regarding cutting/punching boards Bruce. Regarding glass, I have the top off a pair of bathroom scales, it's toughened glass and very smooth but only about 15" square. Still very handy for all sorts of things.

I was going to say nice and simple - until I saw the back! Nice job.