Jump to content

dickf

Members
  • Content Count

    442
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About dickf

  • Rank
    Member

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.usgunleather.com
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Northern Kentucky / Greater Cincinnati

LW Info

  • Interested in learning about
    holsters
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    google

Recent Profile Visitors

12,192 profile views
  1. I lay the gun on a flatbed scanner, use the pen tool in Photoshop to separate the image from the background and have a perfect 1:1 sized image of the gun.
  2. My experience goes like this: Dip dye a scrap piece in Fiebings Pro Oil dye (saddle color). Let dry. Blotchy. Tried 2 more times with different leather from different cuts. Same results. It must not happen to everyone because a lot of people use the stuff, but I will say, Angelus and Lincoln dyes have NEVER done this and I've applied them to crap leather when I made the kids in the neighborhood holsters for cap guns. The holsters all came out uniform in color, as always.
  3. Fiebings dye is crap. Get some Angelus or Lincoln dye. You won't have to buff the excess more than a minute and it take no effort. No bleed, no rub off.
  4. Add me to the list, too. Fiebing's Pro Oil Tan did this once, then I threw out the bottle. Angelus dyes will not do this. It's most certainly the dye, not the procedure.
  5. The custom slot punches are probably one of the most valuable tools on the bench. I used to do it the old way of drilling out the end holes and connecting with a razorknife, but the punches make a perfect slot every time and only the rear needs a bevel. If I had advice for tools that will pay for themselves quickly, this would be in the top 3, for sure.
  6. I definitely not rely on glue alone for anything, but I understand your point. Stitching does help prevent leather from stretching to a degree, but it obviously does nothing for the fit of the holster. Double rows do look nice, though!
  7. I'd say it's an aesthetic thing. The rear slot's closest stitch (other than the edge of the holster) isn't that far away at the triggerguard. With more stitching in that area, you break up a field of really pretty smooth leather. The forward slot could've been left alone, too, but I don't find it imbalanced. I'm starting to shy away from the everything-must-be-double-stitched thing and have been leaning more and more to classic single rows of earlier holster examples. I guess this is my way of taking baby steps! Thanks for the nice words.
  8. Made this pair, as well as a 938, for a customer. I don't have a whole lot of experience with holsters for Sigs, but thought these were pretty. I don't do black gear nearly as often as I'd like.
  9. While it looks attractive, the trigger isn't covered and the stitch line doesn't follow the profile of the gun. To me, these are chapters 1 and 2 of holster making.
  10. It was Bruce Nelson with his 'Patriot' holster. Lou and Matt simultaneously started working on their own versions at the same time (unbeknownst to each other at that time).
  11. Indeed you are! I think I'm squared away, but should something fall through, I'll certainly give you a ring. Thanks for the offer!
  12. Thad Rybka designed and makes the Rhodesian holster.
  13. I like the little guys, too. Looks like a fun one to make, and quick to boot. Nice! From your pictures, it looks like your tension is off on the machine.
  14. I've ordered from both places and I always go back to Rob's store. Ordering direct from Ring's (the last time I did), it was $45.95 + shipping. They were fast a few times and slow a few, too. Rob is less expensive and in my experience, just as quick.
×
×
  • Create New...