Chief31794

Thanks DoubleC, This is the finished checkbook, I finished it in the shop today. Ken

I made this one for me because I needed one. Made with pigskin lining and pockets. I only had a pattern for the back, the lining is just full lining contact cemented to the back and the pockets are the same pigskin lining measuring about 1/3 the distance top to bottom. Ken

Adam, Sorry, I've been busy and it took a while to answer. Not to beat a dead horse, X2 on reading Bob Parks article on casing. The idea in casing is to get the core of the leather wet and that takes some time. If I'm stamping designs, then I don't worry about the overnight, wet it on one side well, wait about 10 -30 min depending on the humidity and when it starts to return then do your stamping. Carving is better done with leather cased as Bob describes in his paper. I wasn't clear, I also like to let it dry to some before putting in the bag or under glass but sometimes I don't have the time on the front end so I have to let it dry a little longer when I remove it. Remember there is a differnce between thouroughly wet and "soggy", soggy is too far and is better used for forming leather as opposed to casing for carving. Hope that make sense. Try casing as Bob says and see if you see a difference, most people do see a significant difference in how the leather carves and works. Keep in mind, in a bag you don't have to take it out in 24 hours, that is about what I leave it sometimes I leave it for 48. Longer than that and I put the bag with the leather inside in my small refrigerator in the shop (I keep diet drinks in there as well). Like I said try it main thing is if you're happy and happy with the results. Ken

Today I made a checkbook cover from scratch, used pigskin for the liner and pockets. Tomorrow I'll lace it up and take another picture of tomorrow's work. This retirement thing is tough, my problem with being retired is I don't know when I'm done each day and I found out I don't get holidays off anymore. I was thinking I would have to report back to work on holidays since my job now is to be retired. Ken

Thanks, The beveling was done with Barry King bevelers I have four different sizes, the pedal lifting was also Barry King pedal lifters and the Thumbprints are, you guessed it Barry King. Barry makes great tools, I have several Tandy tools as well, some are the older ones but I have some new ones. The new ones aren't the same quality of the old crafttools. If you get a chance and are serious about carving check out Barry King tools on the web, they are great people to talk with and very good to deal with. Additionally, the casing of the leather has a lot to do with the amout of depth you get on your beveling, I didn't pound any of these strikes they are all light taps onto well cased leather. Thanks for the very nice comments. Ken

Simply beautiful. Excellent piece and the carving is extraordinary as always. One note just to be historically accurate, her father must have served in the Army Air Corps which was retitled the Army Air Force (AAF), the US Air Force separated from the Army in 1947 and became one of the four services. Until then it was a part of the Army and got it's start in the Army Signal Corps. Most people don't realize that it was the US Army that actually dropped the two atomic bombs on Japan which hastened the end of the war in the Pacific and caused Japan to surrender. Ken

Can't help with the flag, on the beveling the other posters are right on target. Place the forward edge of the beveler right in the cut and then use mallet or maul taps to compress the side you wish. Sometimes it helps to tilt the beveler slightly forward (toward you and away from the side of the line being beveled) so that you can actually feel the edge then you can come back and straighten the beveler up to get full compression when smoothing your beveled line. Hope this helps, the real key is practice. Ken

I use ordinary self sticking shelf paper, it holds good, won't allow thin leathers (5oz and lighter) to stretch and comes off fairly easy. It will not stick to the leather if the leather is wet, you can case before or after but if after, make sure the leather has returned nearly to it's natural color. I case by wetting both sides of the leather until soaked in good but not soggy, then I place it in a plastic bag with a seal (ziplock) unless it is too large for a gallon bag then I place it between two sheets of glass that I keep for that purpose, I leave it under glass or in the bag for at least 24 hours then take it out, let it dry until it starts returning to it's natural color. Like I said put the shelf paper on before or after. I sometimes leave the shelf paper on until after I've dyed and finished the piece it also protects the back from getting dye on it (like belts). Ken

Here's mine. Ken

I've been reading up on antiquing and this is my first attempt. I've used Hi-Lighter and antique paste before, but never the way you're supposed to. I tried the new technique and am pretty happy with the result, this site was a great help and is a great wealth of information and tips. I'm gonna practice this technique and get better at it as well as sheridan style carving. The belt is 1-1/2" so the carving is pretty small, probably should have tried a bigger carving for my first antique job. Ken

I don't do much coloring on carvings, my daughter wanted the purse and she likes the natural color with colored roses. I need to work on controlling the brush! Ken

That's what I do pretty much, no problem when I have the bible or book, the problem comes when someone calls and says can you make me a bible cover and I have to talk them through measuring the Bible becuase they are too far away and don't want to send it. I find many people can't read a ruler and have no idea how to measure what they have. Don't get me started on belts!! Thanks, Ken

Thanks Rohn, I thought about a zipper but for me it adds a mechanical device that can fail, just a little hangup I have, may give it a try though. Both of these were bibles that people wanted to protect and use, the covers were getting worn. The one with the roses was for a Thompson Chain Reference Bible that is about 45 years old. Made another one for my wife that had pockets inside the cover for money, pad and pen. Made them from pigskin. Picture attached. Thanks for the nice comments. Ken

Double U, Thanks, I've looked at a lot of your work and having you say they look good is high praise indeed, I hope to someday come close to carving like you and some of the others out here. Ken

Had not been posting much in the past 3-6 months, I did these a short while back. Made from scratch, plus I learned that there are a myriad of bible sizes so each one has to be made to order and no real patterns to cut from. The basket weave was for a man and the roses was for a woman. Thanks, Ken

Double U, Beautiftul work! Love Sheridan when it's done right and this is done right!!!! Ken

Thanks Syl, They are a basket weave applique (not sure of the spelling), I didn't take a good picture of the braid, next time I do it I'll get a better picture, this one shows some of the braid, the other end matches this end. Ken

I make quite a few of these, I play in a Bluegrass Band and folks at BG Festivals seem to like them, I've done mostly personalized, but I thought I'd make a few up for a festival we're having the 16th of May. I also make Leather belt buckles which most musicians like because they won't scar expensive instruments. Trying to get some together but having to put a new roof on my house (me and my brother-in-law) is cutting into my shop time. Ken

Thanks for the nice comments and encouragement. Ken

Trying to make a deal to sell some of these through a leather shop in a Tennessee Mountain vacation spot. They move a lot of embossed and items with stamps clicked on, they want to move some hand carved and I've sent them pictures of several items and price lists, hope they decide to market them for me.

Don't give my assistant any ideas, she doesn't bother with tools but she loves leather and wool, I discourage her from the wool but she discourages me from discouraging her about the leather. She particularly likes the small strips I cut off of instrument straps with an edge beveler. I dont' like her chewing them because they're long and stringy so I normally try to trade her for a piece of scrap. Her name is Dixie and she's a Toy Rat Terrier. She is supposed to weigh about 6 lbs but she weighs 9 so my wife tells folks she's only 3 lbs over weight? I tell them she is 50% overweight and has what the Vet likes to call a "bit of a weight problem". I'm thinking about getting her a doggy stair stepper. Ken

I only work in veg tanned, and none of it has been dyed or finished when she gets to it. Thanks for the replies. I guess she retired when I did a few months ago. She seems to be enjoying fishing, leather work and pickin' bluegrass music. No kidding, she is the best dog we've ever had, smart and minds very well but she is also spoiled rotten. Ken

I just made these projects, since I've retired I'm gonna dedicate my time to the leather shop and see if I can't start getting better. Ken

I recently made a deal with a great hand around the shop, she has several rules: 1. Any leather that hits the ground is hers or you have option A, B or C: Option A. Back off and let her have it Option B. Let her know you aren't happy but give in anyway Option C. She says I won't like Option C!!!! Ken

Looks to me like either some splatter from something or it was turned face down on a table or paper with glue on it. You might inspect your sewing machine and see if it has too much oil and maybe some of it is splattering while the machine is running. Could also be the leather you're using, try dyeing a piece of scrap without sewing and without getting it around any other chemicals and see if it is the result of poor tanning. If you find out what it is, then let us know it appears to be an excellent resist for highlight dyeing. Ken