particle

Actually, no - I bought the speedy stitcher, but only used the thread out of it and have never actually used the tool itself. Once I watched a video of it on the internet to learn how to use it, I figured I'd rather just hand stitch it with an awl and a couple needles.

Thanks Rob - it was sewn with a Tippmann Boss.

Very sleek looking! Nicely done. Can I ask how you adhere the backing? Is it simply contact cement? I ask because it seems like it'd be tedious to get right around the edges of the holes to insure a good bond, but you've obviously found a way! Can we see some pics of the backs?

I bought a HUGE block of it years ago at one of the hobby stores to make candles for my mom. Something like 12x18x2 inches. HUGE. I don't think the price was too crazy. Probably way more than you need though. Could you just buy a few plain, unscented, not-colored candles from the dollar store?

Hey, looks good to me! I can't stake any claim to the Avenger style. I even noticed in the Galco catalog that, among all of the models they list, it's the only one that doesn't have a TM symbol next to the model name...

I'm looking at the dimensions on the Glock website and the G38 & G25 are also the same as the Glock 19/23/32 listed above. The only reason I mention this is that I only have a Glock 19 dummy and it is my understanding that it would work for all those models.

Indeed - very nice looking!

Okay - I just got off the phone with Texas Custom Dies, and placed an order for a couple punches. Very nice lady, easy to talk to, and very helpful. They don't stock the punches, and custom make them per order so you can get them exactly the size you want. Now I just need to order a 4 lb. maul!

Excellent - thanks Denster. I was looking at the sample slot size on the Weaver catalog, and as you suggested, they still looked a little thin and didn't seem like they'd work well with a double-layer belt. I'll put an order in with TCD today. The punch I got from Tandy was their heavy duty one - it has a severe taper on the punch. I can't imagine punching through two layers of leather with it - it's hard enough to get through one layer - even with a lead mallet...

Thanks! And thanks for your help. Off to cut some more leather to build this guy a new holster...

So you drill/punch your own end-holes, then chisel/cut out the opening to connect the holes? I've been using a 5/16" drill bit to drill the end holes, and my round knife to "connect the dots". The center point of my drill holes measure 1.5" center to center, which ends up making a pretty long slot... Even at that, though, it's still a bit difficult to slide the belt through the slots unless you run perpendicular through the holes. Otherwise, the holster sufficiently pinches the belt and I don't get any movement at all with my own in-house testing.

Update - I just sharpened my el-cheapo and was able to punch two slots. However, the slot is very narrow - very difficult to slide a 1/4" thick belt through. Also, it's exactly 1.5" wide, and so is my 1.5" gun belt. I imagine things will only get more tight once I form the holster and manipulate the leather at the belt slot openings. Suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I'll probably order a Weaver oblong punch tomorrow and want to make sure I get the correct size for 1.5" belts. Are the slots supposed to be TIGHT, or just a little snug? I don't want it to be a pain to put on, but I don't want to get orders back because the slots are too big either...

When you cut your belt slots, do you cut them the actual size of the belt, or do you go a little larger? I have an el-cheapo (I think it actually says that on the side) punch from Tandy, and it measures exactly 1.5" overall. I can't use it because the steel folded over with the first punch into the leather... If you're making a holster for a 1.5" belt, is that the actual size of the slot overall? Or do you go a little larger? I assumed you'd go a little larger, as the slot is not receiving the belt at a perpendicular angle. Since the opening is actually at an angle to the belt, the effective size of the opening is a little narrower - thus I've been sizing the belt slot a little longer. When you feed the belt through, you run it perpendicular to the hole. When you wear the holster, it essentially pinches the belt keeping it from sliding in any direction. I had a customer say there was too much belt slot play in a holster I built for him - he's using a double layer gun belt, but I have to assume it's not quite as thick as mine is that I used to form the slots (1/4"). Here is an example photo showing how the slot is narrower at the top and bottom, which causes the pinching action on the belt. Note that the holster was cut for a 4" gun, and the gun in the picture is a 4.25" (same size frame, different length slide).

I'm working on my second holster with stitched sight channels. Here is a pic from my first attempt for an example of what you're after. I actually make mine 3/8" wide instead of 1/4", but I might try 1/4" next time - I was afraid 1/4" would be too hard to stitch so I did 3/8".

I'm no tooling expert, but that's a beauty! Very nice! Love the smaller size.

That's a cool design! Love the shape of the reinforcement piece. Looks sorta "shark-ish". Nicely done!

Thanks everyone - this holster used 8-9 oz. Herman Oak.

Haha - well, I've tooled some coasters for practice, and did a basket weave on one of my earliest holsters (turned out bad...), as well as a few Christmas ornaments, but this is my first attempt on a holster. I bought a few tools the other day at Tandy to help with these smaller patterns.

I don't really offer this as an option for my holsters, but I probably will before long. I must have flipped back and forth through the Stohlman holster book looking for bits and pieces to build a floral pattern to fit the space available. Pattern's not perfect, and I messed up in one or two (dozen) places, lost a bit of depth when I wet the holster to fold it in half, and again when I wet it to form it...

For IWB, yes as you're fighting against the belt and waste band trying to collapse the holster. For OWB, no - it's not really necessary as there is little, to no outside force trying to close the holster. Personal preference really. I just like the way the reinforcement piece looks - adds a little detail to the holster. But, it also adds thickness. It obviously adds strength, but like I said - for OWB, it's not really necessary.

Sorry - I missed this question. I don't always put it on - I have an option on my website for people to add it if they wish. Most seem to add it, so that's what most of my pictures are of. I'm working on one right now that is natural with no sweat shield, with tooling on the reinforcement piece. I'll try to post pics as soon as the finish is dry.

Congratulations, sir! Best of luck to you and your business. I hope to be in your position some day.

Oops - don't mind me. Been around too may fumes lately.

Hi Lance - thanks for the compliments! I am planning on making some more videos in the near future. Just have to borrow my sister's hi-def camera. Yep - Aubrey is about 10-15 minutes east of Denton, north of Hwy. 380. I would have to agree with Monica - too dry, and the leather just burnishes. While the leather is freshly wetted, you can manipulate the leather more to the shape of the gun. As it dries, you can start to add the detail lines -too soon, and they don't hold very well. I'm by no means an expert at it, but I hope I'm getting a little better as I go along. Yep - still doing it all by hand. I would like to add the Vacuum bag to my arsenal though...

Thanks BRL! I wish I would have taken final photos - especially since this was my first Glock. But, I did dye the edges black just before the final burnishing of the edges. Which line are you referring to over the trigger? The one that rides along the frame where the leather is forced down toward the trigger guard? Or the recess inside the trigger guard for retention? I assume the previous, but not sure how I'd pull the leather in towards the gun otherwise - the leather has to stretch quite a bit in that area. Regarding the hook on the grip area - I tried to be a little different there as most people seem to curve their cut line down, instead of leaving that hook/corner. Heck, maybe there is a reason they do that for technical reasons and I haven't caught on yet! LOL. Most of my patterns have it. Just so happens it's more pronounced on the Glock due to the trigger guard. I had your "When I try new things, I always use a Glock" holster in mind when I was creating the Glock holster. Thinking to myself "man, I hope this turns out at least half as nice as his...". By the way, I'd love to know how you finished that leather. Not sure if you saw my reply in that thread. Did you oil it? What did you seal it with? I'm doing a natural, tooled Avenger right now... Take care, and thanks for the input!