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Scary Leatherworks

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Posts posted by Scary Leatherworks


  1. thanks Scary, I am going to need to sew two pieces of lambskin, do you recall needle and thread weight you used. how much tension adjustment did you have to do?

    Thanks!!!

    Eric

    I started with the 138 thread and had some ok results but was then reccomended to switch to an 18 round point needle with 69 thread. haven't tried that yet was a bit of tensioning to work out had to back it off quite a bit due to the softness of the leather. make sure you try multiple scrap trials to get it right.


  2. After looking at the disaster here what are some things I can do for my next project so I won't ruin it with my new machine.

    post-8545-023223600 1337913137_thumb.jpg

    post-8545-025933800 1337913164_thumb.jpg

    post-8545-012660300 1337913176_thumb.jpg

    I love my sewing machine I just need to learn how to use it. I figure I need 3/8" edge instead of a 1/4" edge next time. Any advice is appreciated.

    Thanks

    Adam

    Yes you may need to make the edge wider especially at the corner it's the worst to sew. Try some Barge cement to hold it together so it can't pull apart when you are trying to sew it together.


  3. Let me start by saying I know nothing about machine sewing

    I am attaching a photo in the hopes that someone can help me out fine tuning

    http://db.tt/V8ZLJmY2

    http://db.tt/5nc8XETn

    Thanks!

    Eric

    needle and tension. I ordered some round point #18 from Steve so I could sew thinner stuff. No they aren't designed for it but I have and still use it to sew thin stuff. I have sewn 2 layers of lamb with my class 4. try smaller needle and thread. When I got mine my smallest needle was a #23 that I used with 138 thread. Also play with the tension to pull the knot in to the middle of the leather


  4. I am new to this forum. It apperars there are many talented people here. I am a novice at leather working but I am looking for information on construting a leather hat. Not just any hat mind you but one like the one worn by Clint Eastwood in the Movie "Two Mules for Sister Sarah" (see attached photo) I think I have figured out the construction details with the exception of attaching the crown to the brim. I would appreciate any ideas you have about constructing leather hats in general.

    Here's the hat post-6407-031706800 1338003900_thumb.jpg


  5. Thanks for that.

    I'm using 8oz cowhide shoulder to make a rugged bag, however I want the bag to be quite thin

    Am I mad for trying to make this design from such thick leather?

    Hope the above makes sense. I'm a complete novice when it comes to all aspects of leather, let alone sewing - I'm learning as I go.

    Yes, you may be mad for trying it :) wet forming might do the trick. the Gussets being only 4cm and 8oz may be overkill though. When you have to stitch the center (middle separator and 2 gussets) it's going to be 24oz thick. you could probably use much thinner material for the gussets but I also understand how it is when you get an idea and you want to MAKE it work. Make the bends on each side of your gusset a bit wider than you want them to end up partly because you lose some around the corners. Also with an 8oz gusset it and only 4cm wide it won't want to "accordion" in but then you were only hoping to gain a cm


  6. .

    I really want the bottom corners to look like this (check out the second image which shows side view): http://www.saddlebac...c=8&category=83

    [/quote

    The corners of that bag are not constructed as you are trying. a 2 gusset bag is a front, back and a middle with 2 long gussets that go across the sides and down the bottom. That bag in your avatar, which I assume you made looks much the same. I use 5oz leather and it works fine.

    post-6407-000101700 1337575730_thumb.jpg pic of front gusset being attached to bag

    post-6407-057619800 1337575510_thumb.jpg side view of the same bag done


  7. Again I'm not really familiar with the type your are talking about b ut I would try Jeremiah Watt at ranch2arena.com This man is renown for his metal work and he doesn't have any minimums. I bought some standard horse tack buckles, beautifully etched from him and the only reason I go 8 was because they were TWO bucks a piece but with 8 they were $1.90. I don't consider that expensive, and he's one of the nicest men-his wife the same that you could work with. The picture I uploaded shows one of his $1.90 etched buckles. Good luck.

    DoubleC I wish Rancn2arena showed more on his website. I didn't see any buckles but do like small companies that make a good product. Also I see you are in VT. Alot of my family is there, but I wanted to let you know on Craigslist someone in Walden (yes I know it's quite a bit north of you) is selling deer hides in a few shades for $20 a piece.


  8. I don't usually do this - especially for a sponsoring supplier - but I am in need of a buckle currently out-of-stock from Zack White ASAP and they do not know when they will get the buckle set back in stock. Stock number is B7211420SGP - it is a three-piece buckle set in 1 1/4" width. Anyone have an alternative source or happen to have one laying around they are willing to part with? Customer hand-picked this buckle to finish his shark-skin belt.

    it's more expensive but looks to be exact. if you are in a pinch? http://www.moonshineleather.com/productdetailsbuckles.cfm?productcode=W001S-04


  9. As far as sourcing the leather, I know to look through the sources forum, but I'm curious at what stages I can expect to source the leather. Even if I will pay a premium, should I be able to find veggie tanned 2/3 oz leather that has been dyed and finished already? Will the dyed and finished hides have a more refined back side compared to the raw stuff (I need to have a somewhat smooth surface for the adhesive sheet to stick on well/flat)? Will it be a better dye/finish job that I am likely to get on my own as a novice? I don't mind learning how to do this sort of stuff myself, although in this particular situation I'd like to avoid the time and expense of testing out several new finishes like I would for woodworking.

    Glad to join the forum, I am sure I will have many other questions as I try to start working with leather. Thanks for any guidance anyone can provide me with.

    Check Wicket& Craig maybe there English Bridle. You have to call them but they are helpful and they will skive to your thickness and finish the back. I always get nice leather from them http://www.wickett-craig.com/index.php/leathers/description-and-grading


  10. Hey guys, I have a few questions on which I can probably find on here but I'm new to the whole forum thing. Just a few quick questions...

    I want to make a custom peice for a family member for his bow... Its just a peice of leather thats about 5 inches by 3 inches, I would like to do some tooling and maybe a concho or two. My question is I want to be able to do this in bulk, that way I can make multiple for practice and even family and friends, so what kind of leather do I need? can I just buy a big sheet or roll and cut it to my shape I want? that would be ideal, if this is possible can someone send me a link?! can I just cut it with scissors or do I need a special cutting tool?

    I'm also interested in bulk items, Like key fobs or wallets, bags, etc... I can't find anything on tandy leather, anyone got any ideas?

    thanks a bunch guys!

    $26 for a tooling belly you want at least 5/6oz http://springfieldleather.com/25850/Belly%2CHermannOak%2C9-10oz%2CEach/

    As said before you want veg-tanned leather if you want to tool it.


  11. Hi everyone!

    I am desperately looking for Neat lac or Clear lac as they call it now and I even found a couple of suppliers which sell it. But the problem is the suppliers are in the USA while I live in the UK and Neat Lac can not be air shipped. Does anyone know where I can buy this thing locally and by "locally" I mean the whole Europe or any place from where it can be shipped by ground. I would appreciate any push in the right direction please. Or maybe I am just being unreasonable and there is some equal substitute for Neat/Clear lac? I am using Tandy's Sheen but from what I understood this Neat Lac is something different?

    Any help would be welcomed please. Thank you!

    Era

    Call Abbey they may be able to tell you if this is the same. I can't find any info on it here in the states http://www.abbeyengland.com/Store/tabid/77/CategoryID/202/Category2ID/69/catpageindex/3/Level/2/ProductID/69360/Default.aspx


  12. Anyone know a supplier in the US? Sajou.fr has them, but their shipping is over $30 if I only want 2 spools. I am not looking for the pre-waxed kind sold here in the states on sites such as amazon or ebay. I really need help finding this, otherwise I have to save up $200+ to buy in bulk to justify the high cost. Thanks.

    Is this what you're looking for? http://www.bagsmith....d-Capsules.html

    says free shipping on this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sajou-Fil-Au-Chinois-Waxed-Linen-Sewing-Thread-CHOOSE-/130502048581


  13. http://www.tandyleat...re/9052-01.aspx

    Thanks guys, how does the above look?

    It's 15sqft, which is 2160sqin

    I could make 800 3/4" belts or am I totally wrong?head_hurts_kr.gif

    Yes, you are totally wrong.:rolleyes: your math is off a decimal point. I'm assuming with your calculation you were figuring on a 36" belt. 15sqft is 2160sqin but a 3/4" x36" belt is 27sqin, which means 80 belts but as stated above you won't be able to use the whole piece. You will have alot of uneven edges you will have to trim


  14. Hi, I have some W&C harness leather and I really like the feel of the stuff. The only thing is that the stuff is really really easy to scratch and dents easy. I run an edger on it and the edger feet leaves light crease lines in the leather. Do you guys have any ideas on how to remove light scratches and impressions from e leather? Thanks.

    Andrew

    I had an excellent piece of Show Harness from them. Yup, it scratches easily. I found that if I rubbed my hand over the light scratches they would come out. I even got a fairly significant one out that way, it just took more time.


  15. I am a newbie here and in leather work, studying and doing small projects so far for just about a year now.

    After doing a bit of saddle stitching, I was getting bored with the color selection for thread that Tandy had, so I decided to make my own.

    I took some plain white waxed Tandy thread, de-waxed it with some acetone (nail polish remover) and tested dying it in different colors. The red and orange on the spool are from

    Cova colors (acrylic paint) and the green stuff is a water based neon green model paint for an air brush. I dipped the thread into paint wrapped on a stick and let it soak

    for an hour or so. Then did a wipe down with a cloth to take excess away and or fill in voids. Then hung it to dry....overnight is best. Next morning, I ran it through the bees wax and rolled them up.

    If you have any dead areas, you can add color with a Sharpie marker if it matches the paint color.

    The neon green really pops and matches my coffee mug well; the boring Tandy brown thread has nice contrast on my wife's brown mug, but not the same pop.

    I like the neon green. You can buy waxed thread dyed in lots of colors (except neon green) I agree Tandy's selection is a bit boring.


  16. Hi all. I plan to use Fieblings oil based dyes on my sheaths...has anyone used the disposable spray units by Tandy? Do you reccomend speaying dye if you just want one uniforn color for everything on the project?

    Thanks

    you can get a fairly inexpensive airbrush and compressor to do that. I use my air-nailer compressor for my airbrush but the smaller ones work fine too. I spent $60 on my air-brush 5 yrs ago an it still works great and you can find them cheaper than that.

    just an example http://www.tcpglobal.com/airbrushdepot/9169.aspx


  17. I am desperate, and need help finding hardware needed to finish a leather backpack. I am set on using antiqued brass hardware for the project and not nickel/chrome. I am hoping for some type of interesting looking buckle(s), plus dee rings and whatever else is needed for the backpack (rivets, maybe snaps). I am hoping someone here can direct me to a supplier that sells hardware of this type, and would sell it retail (similar to Tandy, e.g. i only need 1 - 3 buckles)

    Also, anyone know a good place to buy waxed nylon thread in colors different than the three (black, dark brown, natural) at Tandy?

    Dustin

    I get quite a bit of my supplies from http://www.buckleguy.com/ he has some antique brass. Also do a google search and you'll find ways to antique brass yourself if you can't find what you want already antiqued. usually you have to clean the sealer off then hang it in a sealed container with a small amount of ammonia for a while then heat at a low temp for 20-60 min or something like that. as for waxed nylon thread are you hand-stitching or machine. If hand stitching I would suggest waxed linen, instead of nylon.

    for waxed linen try here http://www.royalwoodltd.com/cat14-17ar.htm I think 7ply for that bag if you really want the stitching to stand out. the waxed linen at Tandy is 6ply get royalwoods thread card for $2 it's worth it

    for nylon thread or other types http://www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=TTE&Category_Code=nylon-thread


  18. Anyone have any thoughts?

    I've found this stuff...

    https://hidehouse.co...&Product_ID=221

    At $175 a hide, it's not cheap. And it doesn't tell me whether it's veg tan or chrome tan, etc.

    Maybe better question is, what would YOU use to make a high-quality, pebble-grain handbag?

    many thanks

    tk

    That leather in the link is 6-8oz, which would be a bit thick for a handbag. hidehouse does have some 2.5-3oz as well but still expensive. find a nice soft kip

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