Scary Leatherworks

Thanks for the replies. Since I've never made a holster I don't know the lingo either. The gun is not a revolver and he wants to carry it locked and cocked. he also wants it to be a cross draw so does the thumb break get made the same way and stays on the back side of the holster?

does anyone have any advise/ideas for a .45 holster with the hold down going between the hammer and gun/firing pin. never made a holster before and was asked by a friend if I could give it a try. Thanks, Scott

thanks for the speedy replies Scott

what is the best thing to use for clean-up after using feibings oil dyes? I'm spraying them with an airrush. I thought mineral spirits would work but it just separated like oil and water. Scott

While waiting for an airbrush part to arrive so I can stain my previous seat I thought I'd practice with my own seat. Since there has been some talk of steampunk masks on here lately I decided to try a steampunk inspired skull. The leather has some stains and imperfections and my tooling could have been better. I am going to use Bustedlifters style for this one except maybe use the screw type rivets so I can remove it in case I want to change it. as always critiques are welcome Scott

Brent, I don't have alot of experience doing seats but the first one I did was for my wife and I covered it without taking off the orginal pleather cover. you can still see the ridge from where the original seat seam is but it's no big deal. Is the pan plastic or metal? if it's plastic you can staple the leather to the bottom while wet forming then after it's dry it can be riveted in place. I used 5/6 oz for the top and 3 oz for sides good luck Scott

Just tooled this for my brother. He's a mechanic in the Coast Guard and he said he wanted a shamrock so I thought I'd give him something extra. Let me know what you think. All advise and critiques welcome. Scott

nice lettering and lacing. what is that lacing technique called?

it's made to hang on the wall far from the reach of kids

this may be a bit off topic but thought I'd post it anyway. I wrapped the wood shelves with leather and tooled the celtic knot for the front. It will hold 6 bottles of wine and 6 wine glasses. Of course I didn't have 6 of the same wine glasses but it's for my sis-in-law and she does.

I like the look of that seat, just plain and smooth. thought about doing one like it but couldn't visualize the end result. although from your post it sounds like you are not done with the seat and it won't be staying like that Scott

276ccm, How do you make a seat like that? do you wet for it to the pan and then tool your leather after? does the pan have foam on it? just wondering because I like the way it looks Scott

Thanks for the compliments everyone. the top piece has a few nicks and scratches in it but I think it just adds to the old look. Although started as a piece of $100.00 royal oak and I was very careful during the whole tooling process to keep it perfect. Then as I was lacing it to the sides after about an hour I noticed all these nicks in the top leather. Couldn't figure out where they came from until I noticed my metal watch band. Oh well. Scott

Finally done or almost. Thanks for all the help and advice. hopefully my next one will be a smaller one.

tlw, click on the "Leatherworker.net Main Page" small letters just under the large brown letters at the top of the page. in there you can click on suppliers and get a list of places to check out Scott

Wolvenstein, here is a picture of whinewine's seat he posted awhile ago. (sorry for always using your pic WW) this pic helped me see how the seat is constructed. the pattern for the top is laced to the sides (although its only one piece) if this were unlaced the side piece would have a hole in it the same shape as the top piece it would just be a little smaller for overlapping and lacing. As to wet forming most of the seat guys as far as I can tell dye/stain and seal their seats after they are on the seat. So it's laced together then you have to wet the sides so it can be formed and stretched around the curves here is some more pics of the cover i'm doing for this seat I used two pieces for my sides but it could have been just one for making patterns for the templates I used construction paper and some heavy fabric. I have read on here to use felt or the clear plastic sheets for overhead projectors. you shouldn't have to make so many pieces. Just have to follow Beeza's instructions and wet! wet! wet! unfortunately it's mostly trial and error for our first few seats. hope this helps Scott

Thanks for the advise everyone. I believe duke is probably right about the hard water. was out in New Mexico last month with a water filter added to the tap with town water. now I'm home with a well and no water softener. Just ordered spirit dye from Tandy today and I'll try to minimize the stain first. Scott

slamdunc, looks ok to me. when you put the leather to the seat did you wet the whole thing? Just wondering if it can ruin the carving by stretching it while wet. Also if you are not using the pleather covers you removed from the stock C seat I would be interested in them for my own pattern for my stock C seat. Thanks for the assistance Scott

now that my bike seat is carved and almost ready to be put on (see pic's in mc&biker gear under 1st seat attempt) when I have to wet the leather to form it to the seat do I wet the whole seat sides and top? If I do will this cause the carving to stretch?

since I haven't covered a seat yet I thought I'd start with the passenger seat. it's 5-6 oz top and 4-5 sides. I initially tried to wet form the sides but the leather was to thick and probably my experience also played into my troubles. So as you can see I ended up cutting the corners and stitching them as well. Why did the water stain the top like this? I wet the entitre piece (top and sides) prior to fitting to the seat. Will stain cover the water marks? Has anyone used the eco-flo water based dyes for seats? I have the Fiebings Leather Balm with Atom wax to seal it. Also added pic's of the carved seat top not quite finishe yet though all comments and critiques are welcome. Scott Sco

David, thanks for the replies and help. 1. I don't have any junk yards handy to buy cheap seats, nor would I want to waste the leather on a seat that couldn't be used. 2. It's a Honda seat so I don't expect it to wear out anytime soon especially since we don't get a chance to ride as much as we'd like. Slamdunc, post some pic's of your seat. I also have a vtx 1300C. what model is yours. I'll be doing my seat next for more practice. How did you get an accurate pattern for your seat top

This is a pic of whinewine's seat. would this be the best way to do my seat. Lace the top and sides together and then fit it to the seat. I'm just worried about the leather scrunching up on the corners. or should I try to use the same pattern as the seat already has with the side panels coming around but not all the way to the front. also i'm having a hard time getting a good pattern of the top construction paper is to stiff and doesn't fold around all the bends.

I'm going to try my first seat using my wife's Honda Aero seat. I'm just not sure which technique would work the best, so I thought I'd get suggestions. I really have only seen pic's of David's style of construction (top and bottom pieces). Since this seat as such a curve from front to back what keeps the leather down on the seat and not just stretched tight across like a trampoline. any and all suggestions are appreciated. Thought I'd throw in the passenger pillion to Scott

carr52 I just did a yahoo search and typed skull pic's it gave me hundredes of skull pics also if you check the "templates" forum leatheroo posted a clipart website that is veryt useful. Scott

excellent work.love those skulls Scott