Scary Leatherworks

I have been working on this bag on and off for months and it's finally done. It's the first time I have tried to make one and I learned a lot. It is ALL hand stitched. 1,452 stitch holes many are triple stitched. The center is 1/2" thick where all the pieces come together (should have skived it) I will do a few things different next time. The back strap holders troubled me for awhile, since I was originally going to place them on the side but with the gusset bent in the strap would have bent the top so they look like the afterthought they are, since I had to unstitch some of the top. If anyone has some construction suggestions I'll take them. Thanks, Scott

I bought some when they were on sale and found them to be quite nice I thought they tooled nicely also. I have noticed that when I airbrushed the dye on there were a couple of small spots that didn't dye well but I figured I should have used a cleaner/degreaser first.

well with the title I was expecting to appreciate the craftsmanship but not really dig the black seat but I actually really like it. please stop doing a good job on those black seats. They may catch on and then someone is going to take the couch off their bagger and want that same look. Scott

Oh I see what you mean after looking at your attempt regarding the area between still being black, so I guess I was wrong about the airbrush. I think your attempt looks fine and I never knew that was possible. Maybe he is applying some form of oil or something to bring out that bright white.

Thank you Tom. Excellent tutorial.

Sorry I have no personal experience with sting ray but I don't think his claim for "hand carved" sting ray is accurate. First let me say his seat construction is awesome but I think those seats are mostly all ghastly except the plain inlaid ones but what can you expect from someone with pics of OCC Tuetels on his site. They build the easter eggs of bikes and he makes the easter egg seats to match. sorry for the rant. anyway I looked under the "seat tattoos" and a close up http://www.alligator...d%20Flames3.jpg of this seat looks to me like it's airbrushed. All the tattoo seats look airbrushed. I can't see any cut lines thru the "beads" of stingray. The only tooling I saw was on normal leather around the sting ray pieces. of course I could be wrong just my thoughts Scott

I just finished my first guitar strap. customer gave me length and design. He needed a slot cut in it and since the pic I added a small piece on the back around the slot for added strength.

]I just finished this seat. A corbin fiberglass pan from a 71 FX. Saddle tan

I posted this in the "bag, briefcase" section a few days ago but I don't think that forum gets many visitors so I thought I'd try here also. As the title says any ideas how to make the top of the bag more rigid so it can be carried without the top lifting/bending. the bag is in the style of ESantoro's I can see on his he has another piece of leather on the underside stitched to the top is there anything that should go between as an added stiffener thanks Scott

I'm working on my first large bag maverick style and was wondering what is used in the top of the bag to stiffen it so it holds its shape while being carried. Scott

That sucks. I've always thought of them as more stand-up. You'd think a company that started off small would understand that you NEED to be paid sooner than some large corporation. You should post this on chop-cult too (for some reason I'm thinking you are a member there also) Scott

I use the Antique gel as well. I use sheep wool to apply it. you said you are using a cloth to apply yours and that might be part of the problem. The rag wont get the antique deep in to the tooling and that is the very reason a cloth is used to wipe OFF the antique because it wont go into the tooling and remove the antique. I cut off a small piece of sheep wool maybe 2x2" and trim it down so it's not so wooly maybe 3/8" long hair. apply the Antique to the wool and rub it in all directions. Keep applying the antique until everything is coated well. Then use a cloth to wipe it off. You need to keep the cloth from going to deep into the tooling so sometimes it helps to wrap it around something firm I use a dry sponge. Wipe off all the excess (change the cloth so it's always a clean) you may need to slightly dampen the cloth to get the last bit of antique off the surface. Of course this is all after I have done my resist. I don't use neet-lac I use leather balm with atom wax but I have used super sheen in the past and works as well. For the resist I apply a few good coats and let it dry then rub it with a clean sheep wool. apply the antique as above and then let the antique left in the tooling dry overnight. to finish I airbrush my finish on so it doesn't wipe any antique out. Sorry this is so wordy but hope it helps. Scott

not exact but close http://cgi.ebay.com/VINTAGE-GOMPH-2-BEVEL-CREASER-LEATHER-TOOL-/260742843243?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cb57c0b6b

I saddle soap mine to smooth out the flesh side.

Sorry but I have no experience with resolene. I have never used it but I would imagine it is much the same as most of the other "finishes" water resistant not water proof. I personally use leather balm with atom wax but it's the same just resistant and Kiwi neutral shoe polish for more protection. unfortunately not much makes it water proof Scott

I put it in a bag and taped it over the vacuum hose then turned it on. it took some time to get the hose positioned right so it wouldn't just suck in the bag and occlude itself. then I worked the leather a bit deeper in to the impressions and left it for a few hours. checking often (vacuum so it didn't burn up) it was still damp when I took it out but kept the shape. It was a HUGE pain but it worked and I'm stubborn. Scott

If you want to keep it "natural" then you'll have to let the neats foot dry/soak in and then apply your resist (resolene, atom wax etc...) prior to the antique or the antique will stain the leather and darken the impressions. practice on scrap first. 1 apply resist (few coats), let dry. 2 apply antique and work it in to the impressions. 3 wipe of the antique with several pieces of CLEAN paper towel. (I fold mine up to a small square so it remains stiff and doesn't go into the impressions and refold often for a clean side). this should leave the antique in the tooling but wipe off clean from your leather. A slightly damp piece can help clean off excess stain. 4 after antique has dried apply your sealer. I use leather balm with atom wax and then you will most likely need another water proofer, such as kiwi and stain your seat after it's on the pan.

try the mexican round braid. it looks more complicated than it is. and it has a nice neat finished look to it Scott

While I was searching for something for myself I found these and remembered you were looking for them. you probably found them by now but here you go. brass http://www.etsy.com/listing/53244693/1-inch-anti-brass-metal-oval-rings-10pcs silver http://www.etsy.com/listing/44252041/1-inch-metal-oval-rings-10pcs

try here at Etsy. http://www.etsy.com/listing/61762267/strong-and-sometimes-prickly-copper?ref=sr_list_25&ga_search_query=barbed+wire+jewelry&ga_page=2&ga_search_type=all&ga_facet= http://www.etsy.com/listing/49318051/devils-rope?ref=sr_list_11&ga_search_query=barbed+wire+jewelry&ga_page=3&ga_search_type=all&ga_facet=

So I am trying my first zipper project. I am trying to make a briefcase with a zipper closure. I bought "the art of making leather cases vol 2" and followed the directions. Unfortunately the example they use was for a thin book, which I didn't realize would make such a difference in the zipper. My zipper seems to be to short and when fully assembled the briefcase wont be able to be fully opened. So my question is can I add some teeth to this zipper? (I really don't want to re-do it) or is there a way to move the ends closer together that I am not seeing? I also notched the case as per the instructions so it limits my ability to cheat the zipper closer. Thanks, Scott

Jimmy, I made this bag from 3oz kip. it holds the shape well and has no inside liner. I wet formed it on a life sized styrofoam skull in two pieces. I also used a vacuum and plastic bag to help form it.

Al Stohlman's book making leatherr cases vol 2 has that in it for making handles. they have a "filler" piece they get wrapped around and he shows pics of a simple metal tool to run it through to make it round.

Sorry, I thought I found them but they are welded. Why do you need them unwelded?

Here's a few pics of unlined covers. one is a sketch pad you can see the groove I didn't have a v-groove at the time so it was cut with a knife so it's a little wavy. the other will be a zippered case that I grooved. I don't usually line my covers. I prefer to make them more industrial so I sand the flesh side smooth then saddle soap it. hope this helps. Also I don't usually cut my grooves all the way. I tend to leave around 1/4" -1/2" on the ends so the groove doesn't show on the edge when the cover is closed