Scary Leatherworks

maybe not the colors you want but they have some http://stores.ebay.com/Leather-and-Stuff-UK/_i.html?_fsub=2599654011

This isn't a roller buckle but... http://store.ryansproducts.com/girthbuckles.html

You probably won't find it all in a one stop shop. a lot of the SS hardware I find is from the sailing/boating industry like here http://www.marinepartdepot.com/oringdring.html

http://www.leathersupply.com/downloads/catalog/Hardware/SaddleryHardware.pdf

I had to edit. The pics were way to big at first.

2nd briefcase is almost complete it just needs a good polishing and a few little things done and it's out the door. I made it from W&C "Chestnut" show harness leather. It's a bit redder than the pics show and it doesn't look waxy in person. I had W&C skive the leather down to 4/5oz for me. It's my first time using it and it was awesome to work with, It has 2 small pockets and 2 pen pockets inside front and 1 file pocket inside back as well as a paper pocket on the back the strap is padded in the center and it is ALL hand stitched.

check these ones here http://studsandspikes.com/buy/stud-rectangle-gene-simmons-bag-of-25.html

Here's the link for what reddevil mentioned http://springfieldleather.com/category/125/925/Wallet-Interiors/

I'm no premier guitar strap maker but My suggestion would be to make it to fit, that is if your son is all done growing, that way you dont have to worry about buckles, which could scratch the guitar. I made one to fit a fairly tall guy (strap was around 56") and I punched holes in the end for strap locks (schaler holes are around 3/8") I got a wide long strap from springfield leather and it worked great.

try here never ordered from them myself http://www.beltbuckles.com/125webuseche.html

I'm using the one that can be used for bullet loops single foot on the left side of the needle

Thanks for the advice. I'll mess with my tension and check my timing. As for lubrication I am using some scraps of W&C show harness, since I'm going to be sewing a bag soon, and it's really quite oily so I wouldn't think that's the problem but maybe it is. I'll have to see if I can find the oil spot in by the bobbin. I've oiled everything else except there.

Well I finally got my Cobra lass 4 this week and have already called steve a few times with questions. I have been having trouble with thread tension (mainly my fault) but there is no tutorial on how to get it back to where it should be. Ensuring the tension knobs are turned together is all I can find. To late for that so how do you get back to proper adjustment? Also I changed to the strap plate for a trial and changed back but since I changed back the machine has been dropping stitches. sometimes it's as often as every 5th and sometimes not til the 10th or 20th stitch. The needle comes up and the leather comes up off the machine as well. I have increased the foot pressure (didn't help) changed the needle (thought it helped but still does it) and slowed the machine way down. It didn't do it until I removed the bobbin and feed dog to change the plate. Any suggestions would be great.

Got my class 4 yesterday while at work. Got it together today and have been practicing some. Been having problems with thread tighteners and thread tension. Hopefully tomorrow I'll get it correct.

I agree with Busted. I think your example looks like an oiled piece of vegtan. I do have Fiebings "buckskin" I got from springfield leather that is a light tan color.

Sounds Like Steve has been busy getting this shipment out. Mine was supposed to ship this past Monday. Haven't heard from the shippers yet though. I can't wait and I hope the learning curve isn't to steep since I have some jobs for it waiting

I use buckleguy all the time and am always happy with my hardware and the shipping is fast also.

this may be a little help http://leatherworker...?showtopic=2161 I made one of these bags with a middle divider and 2 gussets but I stitched it all by hand. I didn't wet from any of it and I used veg tan for the entire bag. 4/5oz for front and back 3/4 for gussets.

http://www.buckleguy.com/belt-tips-loops/ some here

After 4 yrs of using eco-flo antique gel I finally switched to Fiebings antique paste today. I had, what I thought was, good results with the eco-flo but had bought some fiebings paste after reading so many posts regarding how much better it was. I have had the paste for about 1yr now but still hadn't used it. I'd tried it on some scraps a few times then tossed in into my dye drawer and decided I would stick with the eco-flo. (I ditched the eco flo dye a few years ago for the fiebings/angelus dyes) Today I just couldn't get the antique result I wanted, so with some trepidation, I dug out the Fiebings and ended up loving it.

Try here http://www.thethread...ylon-thread-277

I use the perma-lock needles and I don't have much problem. It's already been said but cut a long taper so you can get more into the needle and don't skive it. I used the lok-eye needles when I first started but the lace never stayed in it for me and the lock side was always sprung after putting the lace in a few times. I'm sure it was more operator error at the time but I switched needles and haven't ever re-tried the others again

I'm using windows 7

I recently downloaded gimp mainly for pic resizing and printing for pattern making and I am unable to print with it. It doesn't seem to send it to the printer. Anyone have any experience with GIMP?

I have some GT but haven't used it yet. how do you use it to finish the flesh side. Up to now I have been saddle soaping it. Is it the same method? rub it on and in until smooth? Should I have the piece finished on the front first?