joppstack

I have a Bairds leather secrets in excellent condition. I also have a Bairds Design Artistry full size book like the leather secrets with full size pull out patterns. I PM'd you.

One set is sold. I still have one 4 blade set and the bissonette set still available.....

my paypal is.... joppstack@aol.com

Jeremiah Watt Horseshoe brand quick changer edger set for sale..... I have 2 brand new sets in bag and never used. These have tempered tool steel blades and are pre-sharpened and ready to use. Includes handle and edger blade sizes 0,1,2,4. They sell for over $50.00 per set. I will take $35.00 per set with shipping included in the US. I can take Paypal or CC. I also have one bissonnette style set that includes the handle and 2 blades. These are also brand new. The blade size is not stamped but they look like size 2. I will take $23.00 for this set with shipping included in US. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7fpRgoYEQZ2MmwzS01fbGJROHc/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7fpRgoYEQZ2SHJFdEJHTl9neVU/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7fpRgoYEQZ2YUszRVE2b0pWSlE/view?usp=sharing

Thanks for the reply Wiz... you have some great ideas. I am starting to think it may be the check spring. This machine I have had since new and it is about 16 yrs old now and has the original check spring. I have another one of the same machine that is much newer and the check spring seems much stiffer than on the older machine. Is there a way to adjust the tension of the spring or do I need to just find a new one and replace it. It seems like it would be pretty simple to change it out from the way it looks... Thanks again for your insight...Neil

I have an Adler 205-370 which I have used for years with great results. Lately when I am sewing heavy leather.. 1/2" plus, and I get to the end and reverse to back stitch it is not picking up the bottom thread. It sews fine going forward and does fine on leather not so heavy. I have checked the timing and it is good. Any ideas? Thanks...Neil

Sylvia had alot of great points.... I agree Cylinder arm, just a much more versitile machine.

I have an Adler 205-370. I can sew from 1/2" thick veg tan to 5oz chap leather without making any adjustments while still producing a very nice stitch. I have smaller machines but the Adler does such a nice job I end up using it most of the time. I bought the machine new about 15 years ago, it is used several hours a day six days a week and I have never had any problems with it. It is more costly then many others but I guess you get what you pay for.

If you can't find a tutorial or even if you do, I would suggest finding an old saddle. Something you can pick up for $50 or $75 maybe with a broken tree. Use this as a practice saddle, to take apart and learn how it is constructed. No need to worry because you can't screw it up. You would be suprised how much you will learn just by doing this. It will be well worth the money you spent buying it. Good luck.... Neil

The Adler also gets my vote. I have a few machines but the Adler is my favorite. I have a 205-370 that I've had for 12 years or so. It's used several hours a day, six days a week. Not once have I ever had any problems with it. I can sew chap leather, 2 or 3 layers of skirting or layers of nylon or fleece with almost no adjustments. It's well worth the cost to have a machine that will work for you day after day without any problems. Hope this helps..... Neil

That Randall machine looks really slick... Any idea what one would go for.. new or used?... Neil

They look really nice... Hair-on stuff is always cool!!... Keep up the good work.. Neil

Does anyone know where I can buy an edging machine that will round all 4 edges at once? I found a manual one that Weaver sells but that is the only one that I can find. Any info would be greatly appreciated.... Thanks.... Neil

Keith... Thanks for the great tips I'm definitely going to put them to use. I have never tried using tacks or staples. I always thought they would leave holes you could see in the suede. Also, what type of glue do you use? I have been using barge cement, Is there something better? I have to do a stingray seat this Friday and I want to make sure to get things just right... If you screw up with this it's game-over, Its just barely big enough to fit. Also keeping the spine lined up and centered I'm sure will be a real joy!! Thanks again.... Neil

I was wondering if any of you had some tips on replacing the suede seat in a saddle? I've done a few but would love some tips to make the job a little easier. One problem I have is after I remove the old suede, I try to lay it out to make a pattern to cut out the new one. Sometimes it's really hard to get an even pattern because the old seat is stretched and doesn't lay very flat. Is this how most of you do it or do you make a paper pattern? Trying to pull it tight and keep the wrinkles out while keeping both sides even is really a chore. On the sides I try to drop it down about a 1/2" below the old stitch holes but around the top by the handhold it's hard to keep a nice stitch because I keep hitting the old holes. Any tips would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks.... Neil

I've used a lighter for years and it does the job. Sometimes though when using light colored leather you can burn it if you're not careful. About a year ago I bought something called "perfect end thread burner". It's about the length of a pen and about as big around as a nickel and uses a AA battery. When you push the button it instantly heats the end of a wire loop red hot to cut and melt the thread. When you let off on the button it is completely cool to the touch in about 2 seconds. It really does a good job. I like the fact that it does not have to be plugged in and it's small size and that you don't have to wait for it to heat up. The only negative thing I've found is that if you use it alot it does use up the battery rather quickly. I purchased it online from a sewing supply co.... I can't remember the name. Proleptic sold this tool under a different name, "Pro-thermal pen" I think I paid about $25.00 for it, I think Proleptic's was a higher price, I think around $35 - $39.... Hope this helps..... Neil

Just to clarify my previous post, my Adler is the 205-370..... Neil

Just a short reply on the Adler 205 performance. I have had one for about 10 years now. It is used everyday for a wide variety of uses. Lots of repairs, custom items etc.. I sew leather, nylon , felt, fleece etc.. In ten years I have had no problems at all. Very rarely have I ever broken a needle. I have a very busy shop and this machine is used alot.. 6 days a week. Weaver leather sells all the parts and accessories if the need arises. What I like the best is the fact I can sew thin leather, thick leather (several layers of skirting) and nylon with virtually no adjustments or changes at all. I also have other machines but in my opinion the Adler surpasses all of them in quality, design and durability. I know needle and awl machines are great at what they are designed to do but if you need one machine that can be used for alot of different things the Adler really shines. It has plenty of power, it sews very easily through 3 or 4 layers of 13/15 oz skirting leather. Needing something that can do more than this for me is rare. I know on another post someone said they are made in China but on my machine it says "made in Germany" in several places. Hope this info helps.... Neil

When you get set up, I would love to know how stable it is on the smaller base. I looked at this model several months ago and they were kind of saying that because of the weight and arm length it needed that giant stand. I would love it if you can get away with using the smaller one. That would probably prompt me to purchase one. Let me know how it works out....