Brooks125

No steel is allowed on US Quick Draw Assoc holsters. It's all rawhide. 277 thread off the machine. I did hand stitch the welt, same thread. I always make my own patterns, which also allowed for the slight rear rake on these. Thanks!

I went through an entire side of rawhide to get this right. It's all about timing. Wet enough to mold, dry enough to cement. Once you start, clear your calendar because you have to work it until it starts drying, because it has to be set when you're done.

New item time! A couple months ago, I received a request for a "Fist Full of Dollars - walk and draw rig." The customer specified a few adjustments from the Man With No Name: - It needed to be a double rig - He wanted to use it for quick-draw - It had to fit a pair of 4.62" Ruger Vaqueros The QD requirement meant it all had to be rawhide lined, which is a departure for me, and it needed bullet deflectors. This is probably the 4th version I came up with for the order .. I could not be happier. AND the power of the internet means he found me from Washington State (I'm in Ohio!) I'm kinda jazzed about this one!

... as a bonus, I used the rounds produced from the 2" punch to make these "coins". Since I have use of the stamp, I made about 50 or so. Any idea what use they might have, other than they just look cool? I suggested some type of "challenge coins" for the club, but I dunno. (That bridle is fun to cut and stamp!)

Tom E for the win. Nice edges and looks good. I'm fortunate to have a burnishing wheel attached to my drill press, since this is a "production run"-type order. The local DU was able to get a nice 3" wide brass stamp, which I was able to use on a few things, but it really sets this project off nicely. Side note: this project uses a LOT of material. At $30/pc, it really just covers material and I'm donating the labor. I get about 8-9 pcs per side of bridle leather in 12-13oz. Thanks for the input, everyone!

Thanks Tom. I will try that. It is good that I have plenty of scrap and the sanding did seem a bit "frayed". I'll try your version, or some close approximation - Thanks! No kidding. I'm often amazed at what some people will publish in their product shots.

No logo yet, still waiting on them to get the stamp. It holds the shotgun at your side. It's not particularly original, as I've seen them in the past and very early on, I tried to imitate them. This turned out much better.

I was commissioned to make sponsor gifts for the local Ducks Unlimited Banquet. I was asked for suggestions and I came up with some of the usuals ... drink coasters or dresser valets with the DU logo stamped in. My contact suggested these shot gun holsters. In working up the prototype, I impressed even myself with 2 things: 1 - I picked the right material - 12/13 Bridle stock. No dying. No edging and it looks good. (The prototype has some VERY rough edges, but that was by design) 2 - It seems I got the pattern down on the first try, which is not typical for these odd projects. One note, they use a LOT of material and the design doesn't lend itself well to yield. I got 9 out of the first side of leather. The order is for 20 units! This should be fun, and I'm hoping will expand my product base a little, as well.

I did get some hard rolled and finished the pouch. It turned out well. I discovered the difficulty cutting straight lines, that you mention here. I wish I knew that going in. Thanks for the advice. Here's my finished product.

I found those two pages previously. All I can find on the CFDA site is an explanation as to WHY they have the rules they do ... but none of the rules. The second link send you to a "Page Not Found". I'm going to go with the posts from some of the local clubs, which seem to be pretty consistent.

I am working on a Cowboy Fast Draw holster, a first for me. I understand the holster need to be lined with rawhide, not metal. One site said a bullet deflector is suggested, but not required for adults. What I am having trouble finding are the regulated dimensions for the holsters. Bob Marshall did a video a few years ago and he indicated a maximum (I think) space of 1.25" from the front of the holster to the point where the hammer meets the frame. And there was a minimum (or maximum) space from the throat to the top of the holster. When I look for regulations and require dimensions, I find local club regulations and the CFDA site has an explanation as to WHY the rules exists, but not the rules themselves. If anyone has access to current CFDA requirements, I would like to see them before I make really nice, unusable rig for someone. Thanks in Advance.

I recently took an order to do a mag pouch, specifically in horse hide. Thus far, I have only worked in cowhide, mostly Hermann Oak 8-9oz veg tan. I found horse hide strips on Tannery Row. They distinguish between soft and hard rolled. What is the difference? Is the hard rolled more like a rawhide, or just a firmer version of the hide? Does one tool and form better than another. If this works out, I may expand my products to include horse hide, as I know some people have a near cult-like attraction to horse hide. Does it work better with thinner weights or is that pretty similar? Any help avoiding pitfalls is appreciated.

Those are IPA Marksman and IPA Sharpshooter badges. IPA is the International Police Assoc. I'm guessing they are shooting merits for qualification, etc.

Here is the backside, showing the damage done to 80+ year old leather and a couple repair jobs in! It was difficult finding workable leather at times, but it worked out beautifully! ... my customer and his father from the 50s-60s. The owner is the boy in the photo, he's now in his 70s.

Every now and then, I get a request to do a job that means more than leather and firearms. A couple months ago. I was contacted by a fellow that wanted the cartridge loops on his father's old duty belt replaced. The loops had been replaced at least once, at least on the ends. I don't do much hand stitching, but this one was ALL hand stitching. In the attached pictures, you will see the before and after. I appreciate making attractive, functional gunleather for people. I am honored when someone sends me a family heirloom!

I don't know how much time was spent, and I know there is a pattern that can be bought. The thought and effort was the biggest surprise. As a "machine" guy, I appreciate the hand work people put into leather projects.

The pre-dye is what I ended up doing. You second pic is more what I'm looking for. Oil is always nice because the thread doesn't discolor, at all. I always appreciate your input!

I have no idea where my head was on this response. YES, I use bonded nylon and it does maintain some of the "antique" look with completely changing color when I use white and then dye the leather. I just finished a holster that matches my question here. The long soak seemed to be the answer.

The thread stays white. Seems you could test this on some scraps to see if it would be a possible solution. I have not tried nylon, but I may be, shortly. If that is as resistant as you suggest, that may open things up a bit, Thanks. I have tried the pre-dyed leather. It molds a little, but not to my liking. It has too much of a "vinyl-y" feel for what I do. But thanks. ... and sorry if this post went a little off the rails.

I typically Cut, Stitch (with lining), Wet mold, Dye, Finish. This has changed to Dye, Cut, Stitch, Mold, Finish. I thought about the slave stitch, but with the lining, I can't get it in the machine for the open portions. I think I'll have to stick to a longer soak and more elbow grease on the boning process, similar to using waterproof exotics. Thanks