Brooks125

I get scraps from a muzzle loading shop in the area. They sell them in bundles and they're generally scrap pieces. If you find someone that caters to early American craft trades, that may be a good source. I use them as sketch material for new holster designs to be sure I'm going in the right direction. My supplier is the Log Cabin Shop in Lodi, Ohio. https://www.logcabinshop.com/ Good luck.

I am looking for a metal belt clip for holsters. It's very similar to the one shown, but with the addition of a punched out portion of the bottom-front to grab onto the bottom of the wearers belt. I've seen them, but now I can't even find a photo online. Any help would be appreciated.

I just went to Boise Foundry to look for some larger frame molds. They've been good for some of the oddballs and larger models. The first page says "Closing 31 May, 2021. No More Orders Just Finishing What We Have!" I kinda hope someone else picks up their niche in the market! Time to start looking again!

Yeah, and had to go buy 6 small bottles to get by. I swear someone is drinking the stuff!

I did! I forgot - Fiebing's direct was $45. My Shoe was $30. (not sure why)

I have had a lot of requests for Chocolate finish on several holsters lately. I use enough dye that quarts are the minimum size I usually buy for Pro Dye. For weeks I COULD NOT find Pro Dye Qts in Chocolate. Weaver - Out Springfield - Out Tandy - Out Amazon - Out www.myshoesupplies.com - In stock and arrived in 3 days. I don't know about other colors, but they have Fiebing's in stock, if you want to add them to your "possibles" list.

I've discovered that. It seems counterintuitive, but we'll see. Thanks

I just picked up some TF Barge. I work in an enclosed space and figure it's time to start thinking seriously about what I'm using. Is there a significant performance difference between TF Barge and the regular Barge cement? Is there even a significant difference in the fumes? I'm hoping it's not like the old model glue compared to the huff-less glue that didn't actually work well. Of those of you that use it, what do you think?

Please ... PLEASE tell me you wear that to the grocery store.

I am in search of an ankle rig platform. I currently have a (singular) Ka-Bar 1480 rig platform, which I like. However, it has been discontinued and I can't find any still for sale. Do any of you know where I might find a basic rig base to which I can add my own custom holsters? (The picture doesn't show it, but it has, I think, the "just right" amount of padding and I can remove all the hardware that comes on it.)

No mold gun for that, huh? I like the simple solution to a "complicated" problem. Those rails/sight/thumb rest/slide release look like a headache, but the holster looks great. Nice job!

... or not. If your putting a sight rail in, just extend the dowel out the back. Done right, I think that would turn out very nice! Of course, you may end up filing the sight off you Blue Gun to do that. (You know, you have to post pictures when you finish it now!)

I've had mine from Grey Ghost for about 4 years. Resin material and it's still clean and sharp. Very much worth the cost and easy to deal with.

It's bound to happen, but space is getting tight in the shop. I know I'm not the only one with this challenge and I don't want to reinvent the wheel. Can any of you give me one good idea for how you save space in your shop? What's a good storage, usage or organizing tip you might have? I have about 50 sq/ft to work with and I do store my leather sides in the next room. The picture shows my latest incarnation of the "lair".

I've made a few for Dan Wesson, but I always need the gun. The front cylinder release is unique. If it's a loose design, the Python "Large Magnum" from Bunkhouse may work also, but I'd look up the cylinder diameter before you do.

Cutting 1:1 water to resolene, ike most on here. The airbrush came from the local craftstore, probably a middle of the road quality airbrush. For daily cleaning when I'm using it a few times a week, my cleanup is to SUBMERGE the intake and spray tip in a cup of water, preferably warm, and SPRAY underwater. It will run water through the whole working parts. It's a quick cleanup and usually works well for a day-to-day clean. I still pull it apart and clean with airbrush specific brushes at least a couple times a month. So far, so good for a couple years on this brush.

Yes. They aren't flat. I make them to curve around the body. Send him to the site and email is the best contact. By the way, I would have called the picture above a pancake. Two piece design with gun in middle, to me, is a pancake. I'm guessing he doesn't want a flat design ... which does suck.

Hey ... just looked it up. If 9 and 40 are the same (many are), you may have your beast right here! https://www.knifekits.com/vcom/bluegun-holster-molding-prop-for-kahr-pm9-wcrimson-trace-laserguard-p-5133.html

Factory Laser or aftermarket? Does such a mold gun exist? If not, I'd need the gun and that's a deal breaker. Shoot him over to www.workadaygunleather.com if he wants a quote. I don't call my pancake holsters "pancake", so he may be happy! All that said ... it's sounding like JLS has a new customer!

Here's an early one of my crossdraw revolvers. You may have found, revolvers are TOUGH. You need a lot of meterial to get around the cylinder and not much to get around the rest. I use cheap latigo scraps from a muzzle loader shop and make "sketch" holsters. It's kind of an art-meets-science process. Yes, this one here is a Vaquero single action, but the trigger is covered likea DA. (my other pics are too big, I guess)

Clamshells were more common years ago in police work. Some were even less secure than the ones noted above. Many hinged forward, like the one MaxDaddy showed above, minus the actual latch he has shown. Horrible for retention!

A few months back, I gave a photographer friend of mine my entire stock of holsters to do some nice photos. He did, and I'm sure they looked good, but he couldn't find them on his computer after he took the pics. Frustrated, I commandeered my son's CoolPix camera, got some black posterboard from the dollar store ($1 for 3) and did my own. After taking each photo on the seemless background, I pull them up in the download file, click on the "crop" option, crop it to my liking and hit the "Adjustments" key. "Clarity"- all the way up. "Vignette" - all the way up. VIOLA! right arrow next photo, repeat. Cheap and very nice for the price! It feels like I'm cheating!

Weaver Leather has a great selection. They do a lot of horse tack and that's where most of their hardware is centered.

A few months ago, I had the hardest time finding Military insignia stamps. I could find military-esque designs (Tandy), but I particularly wanted an Marine EGA or Army Crest design. The only decent designs I found are from http://vollkommen.com/Milling/MontanaLeatherStamps/military.html Look him up on Etsy as some of his designs aren't available from the site (not sure why). The selection includes seals, rank and other insignia. The resin isn't the hardest variety, but works well in the shop/bench press. I don't know that I would hand stamp it too many times. If you happen too be looking, look this site up.

I'm not sure where the Ethiopia braid comments came from but .... ok