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Brooks125

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Everything posted by Brooks125

  1. ... and I could use a few more of him. Every time I see this fellow, he hands me money and orders another holster. Great guy, super pleasant and I love doing work for him. One small catch ... he always wants a holster that I am positive I will never make again, since he has modified pistols and specific parameters, which are: Steep rake, closed muzzle and a wide front (to go over his hip instead of ON it). I now note on the order sheet that it is to "DS" specs (his initials). The closed muzzle used to be the stickler.I often felt like I was designing on the final piece ON the sewing machine. After awhile, though, you get the feel and you get a bit of a formula in your head. Also, when a guy orders 13 holsters in a year, you do what you can to accommodate. I need about 5-6 more of THAT GUY!
  2. I'm looking for a supplier of spring steel shims to be used as reinforcements on thumb break holsters. I scavenged this one off of an older holster. 1" on center x 1/2" width would be good. (I hope the photo's big enough, Sheesh!
  3. I'll give Rings a call. I use their price list as the "availability" list from Knife Kits. Thanks!
  4. I know this gets asked periodically, but I can't find anything here on old posts, so here goes: Does anyone know of an off-the-beaten-path mold gun supplier? I'm specifically looking for a S/W 60LS - it's the Lady Smith in .357 J-frame (2.125" barrel). If not, have you ever successfully cut down or left the holster short using a longer gun mold? I can't find her on : Duncans Knifekits (Blue Guns,Cook's, HolsterMolds, MultiMolds or QLH) Bunkhouse Tools Boise Foundry or Rings. Let me know if you can help! With any luck, someone else will find a new supplier of their own on the thread!
  5. Thanks for the input ... so here's my solution. (2) 1/2"x5' pvc, (2) C-Clamps, (2) signs made at the UPS Store and velcro. It was easy to put up and not a bear to carry in/out. Sorry for the busy photo, but it worked pretty well, and even gave me some other display options. Thanks again.
  6. We don't own the tables,and I may not be allowed back if I do that. I did figure the problem out. 2pcs of 1/2" pvc, 5' long (10' cut in half). 2 Dewalt 6" speed clamps. Velcro! I Velcro the edges of the signs to each side of the PVC. Tension between the clamps is key, meaning, set them a couple inches further than the sign to keep them from rattling. If I install them at and angle, I should have 360* viewability. I'll post pictures after the show! Thanks, guys!
  7. Please tell me you make multiples of these in different variations and sell them to the pro shop for that specific course. Unless it's a real duffers course, that would be a great item! I do holster/gunleather work and am always impressed when I see you guys doing great, delicate accessory work. It's harder than people think.
  8. I have been going to gun shows for just about a year now to sell custom holsters and gun leather. I recently bought 2'x3' corrugated (horizontal ribs) signs to advertise my spot. Aside from building a 25 piece PVC frame and spending 2-3 hrs setting up, is there a simple sign system that can be made to post signs, overhead, for attendees to see. I know this isn't leather-specific, but I know some of you have gone to a lot of shows and have seen better stuff than I have. I currently have 2 or 3 great regular customers, but would like to get more. I'm thinking being able to be found (again) may have something to do with it.
  9. I believe you have a tension issue. When you back stitch, the threads now have 2 threads in the hole, instead of one. It will take some practice, but I corrected the problem by adjusting the top tension tighter ONLY when I am coming forward by my back stitch. I have a CB3200, and adjusting the first tension wheel on top does the trick.
  10. For lighter tooling, pattern marking, snap/rivet setting and small punching, I use a 1# dead blow hammer from ... drum roll please ... Harbor Freight! I use a 3# dead blow from the same reputable dealer for slot punching and maker's marks. Cheap, fairly durable and easily replaced. The faces do wear out, but it takes some time. I make gun leather with minimal stamping so I stay more to the orthopedic end of the leather working spectrum.
  11. Prepaid shipping boxes from USPS. The big ones make a great work surface for the bench.
  12. I just got a snake skin from Tandy on their web specials and am planning to do a holster for a friend. These skins are pretty soft and seem absorbent. I was wondering if there is a process for wet forming leather gear that uses non or less absorbent exotics, on things like holsters. Does the veg tan simply absorb enough to still tool and bone the items, or is there some step I'm not thinking of?
  13. I've had requests for Paddle holsters, and it always seemed daunting, working in leather. I figured out a way to make a standard patch that fits the Blackhawk paddles, which can be had separately. Just line up the holes and sink t-nuts in position through the applique'.
  14. Yeah, my FIENDS realize that. That's also Tandy's price on the same item. It's a tough call for them, having that much "idle assets" sitting around. She told me the finishing is worth more than the material at that point.
  15. I just picked up a piece from fiends of ours who sell counter tops, etc. He suggested quartz for the durability (I broke a piece of marble with a 3# dead blow hammer.) In talking to his wife, they pay several thousand a month to toss them in the dumpster because of the weight. It's a bad spot for them, the pieces usually aren't worth the cost to finish the edges (they finished mine on barter) and there isn't demand in most cases. They had 12x12x1.5 pieces cut and in stock, with a retail price of $50 ea. They have their newer finishers work on them for experience and to evaluate their skills. I'm looking forward to using it, as a work surface and my photo backdrop (it sparkles!).
  16. I imagine they realize you are buying a new item that might cost more than your car. Good customer service people are mindful of that and respond accordingly. I know I was excited when I got my Cowboy and a lot of others on here will relate. Congratulations, and let us know where to send the shower gifts!
  17. Chuck at Weaver gives a great explanation. "leather dyes" are a powder based colorant, "pro dyes" are an oil based colorant. He even explains the similarity in color results. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zokhe6oxhjc
  18. Do you ever want to talk a customer out of their custom order/idea. At the last gun show, I got a few doozies. One fellow asked for a 3" wide belt ... 3" wide. He wanted to wear it over his hunting gear. I measured him on my sizing belt, I asked him a second and third time, "Three Inches??!!" Yep. "You realize that's essentially a weight lifting belt." Yep. "You realize that's wider than any duty belt." Yep. I had to get the buckle from Weaver, and I'm sure it's intended for use as a Draft Horse tack. I applied a reasonable upcharge and just finished the belt .... I'll keep you posted. Another guy, who just took delivery on IWBs for a Charter Arms Bulldog 44 and a Ruger Security Six promptly ordered a crossdraw IWB for a full size 1911. You may not think that's odd, but this fellow stands about 5'2". I wondered to my table mates if he ever sits down. Of all the orders I had last month, NOT ONE did I have a pattern for. Two required using a live firearm (fortunately, the same Glock 40 (yes, an IWB as well!)) and I'm now, apparently in the bodybuilding industry. Is it just me, or is this par for the "Custom" course?
  19. 49, but like most guys ... still 23 in my head!
  20. So I ran the machine with no thread, perfect with no click at all at any speed. I ran it empty with an empty bobbin, no click. I threaded i and it was much quieter, with only an occasional click when the pick up arm was in the top position, but it's hard to tell where the exact click is, but still much better. Maybe I just needed to post the question and that seemed to fix it ... kinda like feeling better once you get in the Dr's waiting room. Maybe I'm getting old and hearing things.
  21. MCD, making the patterns is truly part art/part science. I have, literally, hundreds of "sketch" holsters. I keep them all for reference should I need them. I use scrap bundles that I get from a local muzzle loader/rustic shop. A lot of latigo scraps and laminated leather. Early on, I bet I tossed 4-5 sketch holsters to finish one, but it comes along ... and it's STILL coming along. Find a source for chap, nasty, I-plan-on-throwing-it-away leather and start with your trial by error process. The pictures you have posted above took a lot of tie, but man it's worth it when you get there ... eventually.
  22. Yeah. With no top strap, no slots, etc. it always seems hard to come up with a great solution for attaching it to the belt. I get the same thing on these and I've come up with pretty much the same solution. Also, great job on the grip presentation and having the gun accessible. You'd be amazed at how many people miss that (or how many holsters I've thrown away because of that.) Very Sharp!
  23. That's a great classic looking holster. Yeah, very Cav-like. The loops are always a sticking point on plain-front holsters, mostly in the aesthetics. If that fits snug on the belt, I'd say very well done.
  24. I have a CB3200. When the needle is cycling around the top, and only at slower speeds, I get a distinct "click". I keep it oiled (I sometimes get oil on the leather) but it still clacks on slow speeds. Am I missing something or is this normal? It's done this since I've had it.
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