Brooks125

I'll echo the straps comment. Those need to move, unlike the gun in the holster. No lining or even any stitching. Those will grab clothing and make an uncomfortable ride. I use water buffalo hide with a finished edge.

That is some nice tooling. I especially like the directional "distress" lines on the iron cross.

I line my holsters, but not mag pouches. Most of my holsters are open top and I like the extra friction they give and a nominal amount of protection. That being said, holsters that don't use a thumb break live for friction , so you will get some normal wear either way. I think it just looks better, too. I think the naked leather will do as much wear-n-tear as the lining. I use pigskin which is thin enough to avoid excess bulk. By the way, I've carried it on my own blued gun for three years on a daily basis without issue. Mag pouches don't get lined. The wear doesn't bother me and the gun will do more wearing than the pouches. I use tension screws and/or top flaps for pouches, so no lining is needed. Sorry I didn't catch you sooner, but there's my 2 cents.

... add https://www.boisefoundry.com/holster-molds to the list, especially for large frames. I just discovered they have X-Frames in 4lengths! Yahtzee!

I don't know how much this topic has been covered, but here's my experience. I began setting up at a local, very-well-run gun show, just over 3 years ago. Business was very slow the first few months, but has picked up briskly over time. I think a few things come into play with this method of getting holsters and gun/knife/western gear to customers. 1. Consistency. I know I've gained customers because they know they will see me at every show. Obviously, that doesn't happen overnight, but it comes sooner than you might think. As much as possible, be at the same table/location every time. 2. Take very good care of the customers you get. I had one gentleman who, every time I saw him for about 15 months, would hand me money and order another holster. He had very specific design parameters, which I was careful to follow. He missed two shows in a row, and I actually called to check on him. He was on an extended trip, and is still a customer (and now friend) to this day. 3. If you're doing custom work, people understand you hit snags. Explain the hold up, make it right and deliver a good product, even if they have to wait. Communicate! 4. Learn the culture you're working in. If you're making holsters ... learn about guns. if you're making knife sheaths ... learn the knife culture. Western work ... study period designs or SASS trends etc. 5. Sometimes .... say no. Decide what you will and will NOT do, and what can and CANNOT do. Don't make crappy or dangerous products just because some Yahoo thinks it would be cool. 6. Build relationships!!!!! With other vendors, regular attendees, security officers and the organizers. You don't have to be a suck up, but easily 1/3 to 1/2 of my business is referrals to people asking "Who has leather gear?" One other vendor loves vintage stuff. He sends me people looking for new stuff, I send him people looking for old stuff. I give him some of my older table stock on occasion as a "finder's fee" and he's ordered holsters for himself. Gun shows are a mixed bag, but can be a great outlet for keeping work moving, both directly and by word of mouth.

I got a bench top drill press from HF and a friend of mine works in a facility with CNC operators, one of which owed him a favor and made a burnishing tool. Actually he made 2 because it only takes one more push of a button once you've made one. I gave him the design I wanted and they took it from there. I have an extra I'll most likely never need. I'm told it's the highest quality aluminum money can buy.

... and FredK are the winners on this one! I know it's been awhile but ... I set a groover to the midline of the strap and used the divider to mark the holes. I was amazed how well they came out. It was quicker too! Simple solution to the problem. Thanks!

You know you're going to have to keep us posted, right?

The 500 and 460 are popular, but not enough for the mold gun makers. A few shows ago I received several requests for holsters for them, but confided I would probably need the actual gun to do the holster. Even Bunkhouse Tools was a no-go. They're usually good for the larger frames and vintage Western guns. By all means, let us know if you find someone.

I think that's what I'm looking for and I'll give that a shot. Thanks!

It is. I basically laminate the exotics to the veg tanned from the original cut outs, and all my holsters are suede lined. I'm wondering if a longer saturation before molding would be better or worse...or if the loss of detail on the boning is just to be expected.

What is the secret, if any, to wet molding exotics? I have done a few with snake skin, frog and now ostrich legs. I understand most exotics are essentially waterproof, but is there a way to "encourage" moldability to get the deep, incised lines you get with cowhide, or at least closer to it? Here's an example of my last ostrich leg. The interior is pretty spot on and it functions great. It's a nice holster, but I would like more front detail.

I haven't seen an expanded list posted, but thought I would put my 2 cents worth in on suppliers for different mold guns. http://knifekits.com and https://www.holstersmith.com/vcom/index.php (I think the same company) are a pretty good first stop for most common modern guns. - About $50/ea, pretty consistently http://www.bluegunstore.com/ has some of the off-the-beaten-path molds and have a few independent suppliers (pocket guns are easier to find), sometimes they are cheaper and have free shipping at times shop.bunkhousetools.com They have a lot of the vintage, magnum and single action guns in stock. ("Large Magnum" is a Python) They charge for shipping up front, and if it's cheaper, they automatically refund the difference. https://duncansoutdoor.com/duncans-customs/ They are a great source for aluminum dummies, but have a limited supply. Order by phone as long as the guy in that department is in. Feel free to add to the list ... it may save us all some time and money!

I would have guessed Weaver, got a 3" from them in the past. In that vein, you're probably going to be looking for equestrian tack to get that. Good Luck.

A friend of mine is asking if I could cover a side plate for his son's Ducati Scrambler. The original covers are aluminum and can be attached/detached by a tab and grommets, and secured by an allen screw in the middle. The design is convex, thankfully, but I'm wondering what's the best way to attack this. I'm a holster guy, so I need some guidance on type of leather and how to bond or secure it to the plates. He's also wanting it in a russet brown finish, but I'm guessing I'll use something already tanned to that finish. The photo isn't the actual plate, but it's the same size/shape - in aluminum. Thanks in advance. (Always fun to get out of the comfort zone!)

My biggest frustration is having to mail order everything. Weaver is 45 mins away and like the earlier post, I would like to go pick out my H/O hides. When my Barge began to get thick, I had to order more cement and thinner. And all the other little things that I would normally get off the shelf either at Tandy, Weaver or a local muzzle loading shop, I have to order, pay shipping and wait 3-4 days. I know ... 1st world problems. Stay healthy and stay safe.

Is there a trick to getting spacing correct on adjustable straps? I have got my shoulder holster patterns down pretty well, but as much as i try to be accurate on the hole spacing for the straps, some are always just a tad off, which is usually the ones that make the strap bow IN towards the wearer. I like to use 2 screws to secure the strap, both for redundancy and fit, but being accurate on 1.5" hole spacing is a bit of a stumbling block.

It's a common request. So common, in fact, I called Toledo Ind. a few years ago and asked for the very same thing. Keep in mind, Bob advertises "thousands" (I think) of sewing machines in stock. When I called and asked if he had a used heavy, leather sewing machine, he gave me an immediate "nope". I asked how he knew in such short order that he didn't. "I get this exact same call 3-4 times a week." I'm sure he does, and 2 weeks later I was loading a new CB-3200 in the back of my truck from his shop. Used machines go for almost as much as new, and with the warranty (and someone like Bob a phone call away), new is almost always a better choice. That being said, knuckle down, save up the coin and take a leap. I taught myself to sew leather on that machine. It is the best $1800 I ever spent and don't regret it for a second.

So here it is! This fits for 1911 single stacks. YES on KnifeKits and here's the shopping list. 8-32- Phillips - Pan Head -(.750 x .312) Finishing Washers - #8 - Countersunk- (Black Oxide) TLMAB Washers - Black EPDM - (.500 x .180 x .625) Slotted Post - Steel- Black Oxide - (⅜ in)

That seems to be the ticket. I order my mold guns from them.I guess I should have figured they would have the screws with all of the kydex they work with. Thanks for the complement as well ... I am learning!

Where would I find, and what is the correct name for the tension screws used to adjust the tension on a leather holster/mag pouch? Do they sell them as a set or should I just rig one from long Chicago screws and rubber hose/line?

I think im going with the "something happened" explanation at this point. Just wondered if this was a predictable mishap. The close stitches were a result of the tension.

I have been sewing holsters and leather gear for a few years now. I have a Cowboy 3200 and keep it well oiled and it's been a real champ. A few weeks ago, it would skip a stitch once in awhile. It would punch through, but the needle would not pick up the bobbin thread. Last week, I was working on a western belt with cartridge loops, you know, a quick cheap easy job. I noticed the thread "skipping" and looked at the belt. The thread was so tight it basically twisted to the point of cutting completely through the 18 ounces of leather. It seems like the bobbin hung up and didn't release the thread at all. It hasn't happened since, and the skipped stitches has stopped. Any ideas what caused this and how to avoid it in the future? (I cleared the thread away before I took the photos.)

....a few more. Always in "chocolate" now. This is one large holster. I think it's over 200 sq in.