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Everything posted by Aart

  1. Aart

    Red leather

    Thanks Gentlemen, will try. But a complete (pair) harness is a bit 'long' to do with what we call 'bâtonnets Ouates' or 'coton tips' Aart.
  2. Morning everybody and a very happy new year, Would anybody know how to 'stain' natural leather to obtain an overall red finish. 'Stain' is probably not the exact word I should use, I'm thinking along the lines of vinagroon, but with red outcome. When I tried last time, the colored layer was just on top of the leather, did break and come off rather easy. The idea is to make a bell harness for next winter. Best Aart.
  3. Aart

    Cavesson Iron

    Hi everybody out there, Would anyone of you know a supplier for Cavesson (Caveçon)nose irons. Ideally I would need brass ones. From France Best regards Aart.
  4. So, Hi, Back in town again, Thank you Celtic leather, Luke and Gary. I think I'll go for the hot plate Best regards Aart.
  5. Thanks Gary, Glad to see that I'm not alone on this subject. Aart. (Of for a (working) weekend now so not able to reply before monday. Sorry)
  6. Hi all, I Have used the search engine on this forum and it found some highlighted areas on heating the border tool (visited the Jeffreys Youtube etc). But there must be more to it. Up to now I've heated my creasing tools in the 'old' camping gas flame. I find this very unsatisfying. I know about the 'Why we do it' That it firms up the border. That it finishes it off more or less beautiful, but the 'how' has always (in my case) more or less been an experiment. By the way in Europe we use a wooden bordering tool which I've NOT tried to heat (yet). Could I have some feedback please. Best regards Aart.
  7. OK Jim, But still. Dreaming about this forum this morning when I was out for a spin with my mare the word I came to was : Generous. Thanks again for sharing. (All of you I mean.) Aart.
  8. Hi, Understand that the pouch should remain kind of 'fluffy' in your pocket Why not taper down the sides of the flap and have a small strap of let's say 15 or 18 mm wide on the front side. You can then slide the flap under it and presto. Maybe flap should be a bit longer though On the magnetic claps on can always cover the back side of the receiving part on the inside of you pouche with thin leather Bset Aart.
  9. Thank You Jim, Thank you for taking the time to explain this to me. So basicly if I use 4 mm leather, no filler is needed? And any series of holes would do as long as the gadget opens up and provides for bigger to smaller holes. Funny thing is that I almost knew that it would be either you or Barra, that would answer from down under. B. Must be away on holiday. Thanks again, from (sunny) Southern France Aart.
  10. Bonjour Mr. Buffalocuir, Nice work, I don't know where you are (when in France) but send me a mail and I'll give you the adresses where to get tool and the rest in France. Salut Aart (à coté de Fayence 83)
  11. Hi all, How would one use this item? (Sorry, but From the Weaver catalogue and receiving that catalogue , I had a good read for an hour ) Before (and the result was NEVER show quality) I made rounded parts as follows. - A piece of leather reduced to approx 1,5 / 2 mm was - soaked in luke warm water - sewn around a piece of rope (tapered towards the end and the stitches a bit further from the rim than usual) - soaked again - hammered into a piece of wood with a half round groove in it so the the remaining leather outside the stiches folds over and takes the form of the rounded canal. - let it dry - buckles or french snaps etc. - And I was / am not satisfied after burnishing etc. Is this just a lack of experience or do I do something wrong? Might the machine help ? By the way it looks like the thing the plumber used for his piping. Best regards, Aart. rein_rounder.tiff rein_rounder.tiff rein_rounder.tiff
  12. Thanks, Terrific initiative. Yes I'm very interested. But.... I'm in Europe (France) and would need it with a 25,5 mm bore. The questions of course are Is that possible and against what price (and when) Merry Christmas Best Regards Aart.
  13. Thanks Tashabear, Ill write the as I hope to find something a bit thicker than 1/2", as I'm not sure that several layers wil work. Aart.
  14. Hi there, I'm not there yet but this might take some time to obtain the info needed. (and work-out the consequences) I'm still working on that Gig saddle and I think of "stuffing" the panels with a gel like they use nowadays in bicycle saddles. Does anybody have some info on this and possibly know where to buy the stuff ? "Stuffing" being not the appropriate word any longer I'm sure. Best Aart.
  15. Aart


    Thank you for the "Abbey" link Barra, Aart.
  16. Aart


    Wow and I thought my english sufficient. Six lines and as many words I do not know: What special tool ? is that the "overstitch wheel "? What is a ball pein hammer ? Cantle Binding ??? I suppose we'll find out when we get there. On the side: would not it be an idea to start a "Leather workers dictionary" in several modern and not so modern languages (I'm fluent in Dutch, French and Swahili (Almost fluent in English I'm sorry to learn) But thanks Barra Aart.
  17. Aart


    Thanks for this Barra, Once again you're helping out. Would be great to learn more .. Aart.
  18. Aart


    Thanks Rawhide, I saw that tool before and it seems to point in an other direction. It means more or less that the tread and stitches are in line and not (like I thought) that the thread leaves in a 45 ° angle from the stitches. (I'm stil working on my Gig Saddle Pad and currently I try to figure out how Steinke puts welts, skirts and the seat together.) I'm getting there and it is fun to figure out how the real craftsmen get their results. Best Aart.
  19. Aart


    Good day ladies and gentlemen, A question from France. What do english speaking leather workers mean by "overstitch" Is it a one needle or a two needle thing. I think it means sewing two pieces of leather together with one thread one needle going from the back to the front through a hole and needle with the thread over the top to the back to go to towards the front again in the next hole. The thread forming a bridge over the sides to be fixed together. But I'm not sure and would like to understand. Who is the expert answering? Or the expert it in a more or less understandable english Best regards Aart
  20. Trust Jimsaddler, same recipe here in Europe. Beeswax, Resin and Linseed oil. Just this... I'm in Southern France so there is no need for a winter and summer version. I'm just an amateur (and have been for over 40 years using my own hand material on my own bred horses) But these threads do last. Mistral sun and sweat. Et un coup de chapeau for Jim. Best regards Aart.
  21. Hi Horsehairbraider, but sorry the saddle you are pointing at is not a gig saddle. It is a (nice looking) saddle to be used for a four wheel carriage. The one I'm making is to be with a running back band for a two wheeled carriage. The horse is 15 -16 hands (158 cm sorry) so the saddle is to be about 16 inch wide. I'll post pictures during the fabrication. Best and thanks again. Aart.
  22. Morning Barra, Thank you Euh. I don't HAVA a tree. I'm making one out of wood and aluminium. Best Aart
  23. Hello Everybody, New to this forum. I have so many questions that I (almost) do not know where to begin. I've started some weeks ago on a Gig saddle -for a two wheeler I mean- Could anybody tell me some do's and do nots as I've checked my old Hasluck and other books on saddlery from the old continent but so far there are no real plates or measurements and I'm alone in the woods. Great to have "found" you Eagerly waiting for anybody to reply Best Aart from Southern France that is.
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