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Everything posted by genewshipp
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Nice work. Winning looks. When I read the title I thought of western belts stitched together along the edges as if laid flat on a table side by side. And I pictured one side running horizontal and the other side running them at a 30-45 degree angle.
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I wouldn’t have any trouble using the leather! At all. God is the first leather maker. He made clothes for Eve and clothes for Adam out of leather. I’d love it if you’d post pictures of all the newspaper articles where we can read them!!
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Duane Watts' swivel knife is what I want to try. $110 last I checked. https://youtu.be/vI8tW30tn58 He makes one that is like a pen i.e. yoke-less. He's on https://www.etsy.com/shop/DWLeatherworks as DWLeatherworks. All that's showing up there is the pen type of swivel knife. Don't know why the yoked one can't be found there.
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I'm looking for an 8 inch leather splitter. Anybody got any splitters they want to sell or had issues with a certain brand that they'd stay away from? I will mostly be splitting Veg. skirting Thanks
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Custom stamps & maker's marks
genewshipp commented on Inth's gallery album in Shops, Tools & Machines
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Aussie A. Long. Time. Learned a lot about getting the right amount of water in the leather prior to stamping. And once a part of the leather has been stamped; DO NOT spray it with water or dye unless you're willing to stamp it again. Only wet the area that needs stamping. Keeps the sharpness from fading. I get an hour or two max at my bench at a time so the whole project took about four months. I described the entire project from beginning to end and somehow that got lost when I posted the pics. This is my 3rd project. I started by making my son a belt and short sheath to go with a wooden sword and shield that I gave him for Christmas. Then I made a lined holster for my pistol. It is too tight and bulky. Think when I begin to carry <concealed> I will use a kydex holster instead. Because the purses that my wife has had in the past were either poorly designed or lacking in functional pockets I decided to make the kind of purse she wants that is easy to operate, reliable and helpful, kinda like your favorite gun, in addition to looking good and made for her by her hubby. Wife likes it and loves the pockets but I will cut about 2-3 inches off the top so that it is shorter thereby easier for her to get in/out of the car with. Might make a wallet out of what I cut off. Gene
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I have not read every post here....but I recently destroyed my Craftool maul. I was basket weaving two layers of 1/16" leather. Not sure what weight that is. Because I had stamped it the first time with so much water that it was soggy, it looked poor. Very. Ugly. So with the right amount of water, which was a little hard to tell (a) because I had already stamped it and (b) because it is very white veg tan leather (from Tandy) it was hard to see much burnish, if any, after re-stamping an area. The stamp is a Tandy hourglass basket weave. (See a pattern?) Point is I was hitting it very hard. Had to to get a good looking impression. That and i previously whacked my daughter's flower stamp so hard that I broke my granite. That time the leather was thinner than 1/16 and one layer. The maul (i'm guessing two pound, it was the biggest one they had the day I was there) now has divots in it. If I hit one of them along its edge it turns the maul. Will every maul do this, if hit hard enough? Or are Craftool mauls softer than the high dollar ones? I probably did not have the leather soaked all the way through on both occasions. I realize that that adds to how hard I had to hit. Gene
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Not a problem. Thanks Big Gun!
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Thanks TLP!
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Doc I used a file to make a dagger. After I heated it in the forge to a dim red, which I no longer have access to, I quenched it in water. No idea on the temp because it was fifteen years ago. It's so hard that I cannot sharpen it. Will more heat treating anneal it? If so I will probably use an acetylene torch and instead of a cutting tip, use one of those heating tips that has a humongous flame, does it need to be quenched after? If so, in water or oil? Thanks Gene
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NICE!! Well done ghstrydr164. Off to the hardware store.... I'm thinking about a big rubber handle for stamps, large enough to make holding the stamp a little easier on the joints but not so big to obscure my line of sight. And make several of them with different size holes for all the sizes of my stamps. When done just pull it off and put it on the next stamp. Has anyone seen a stamp handle on the forum?
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It would be great to have the steps. I have already dyed a holster. Getting near my bench is a sure way to forget what I read here. Printing is a priority this time. My first coat of dye had some light patches so I rubbed the whole thing with alcohol before the second coat. The alcohol in the dye (fiebing's) plus the rubbing alcohol dried it up. Some people say not to use neatsfoot, to use Lexol instead. Thanks in advance Gene
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I would also like to learn about when and how to pre-stretch. My first project was a holster. It was lined so I'm not sure that it needed stretching before or after bonding the liner or not. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
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This is my third project. Eventually I'll get around to posting pics of the first two. My first was a belt and a short sheath <more of a slide really> for my son's sword <wood>. Next I made a lined holster for my pistol. This is a purse for my wife. Phone pocket fitted to her iphone, pen holder, pocket for car keys. Started with a side of Tandy 2 oz veg tan. Cut two pieces out and gouged them with a piece of deer antler to fold at the right spot which make up the sides and bottom of the purse. Used barge to glue the flesh sides together so that the purse is lined. For the ends I used 5/6 oz and lined them with the 2 oz. The tooling on the bottom that looks like snakeskin is one of tandy's pro tools. It was on sale for $10. The four sides are all basket weave. The basket weave was a tandy tool too but not pro. Mid project I stopped a few times to file on it because I didn't like what it was doing. It was a lot easier to modify the tool with a needle file than I thought it would be. Mainly the bars at each corner were too tall and that restricted how much definition the middle of the tool could give. So I slid it back and forth across my lansky stone and they flattened out and got short very quickly. Once those were filed down I sharpened the features of all of the rest of the tool because even a good impression looked smudged and mushy. At that point the bars were too sharp on edge and their impressions showed it. A little edging with a diamond tool and I have officially hacked my way into tool modification territory. At some point I need to break down and get a Barry King basket weave stamp. I love fixing problems without going to the store or spending money online. Don't get me wrong I love great tools and appreciate quality but the money and the month do not last the same amount of time. And leather is way down the list in terms of importance in the budget. Used Fiebing's saddle tan to dye all of it. The outside of both end pieces got two coats. I didn't want them darker but I couldn't get the dye down in the small nooks and crannies of the basket weave. Dyed the second one before tooling which helped with the nook and cranny problem but then I decided to give it a second coat to match the other side. Same story second verse on the sides. One side stamped before dye. The other after. Learning how to dye without leaving dark/light spots is not hard to do but it means that there are some spots that look blotchy. So it goes. The hardest part <problem that I will accept> is due to a failure to plan at the very end. Because I can only get in a little time each time I sit down at my bench this purse took about four months to complete. So now you know my feelings about finishing it. I barged the edges of the center divider and its second coat was drying but not too dry. Swabbed the inside of the purse with glue. And tried to insert the divider without tape to hold back all the tabs which all had glue on them. Next time I will do a better job of inserting the divider straight; using the same method of glue and tape to hold back the tabs. And I won't rush it. Decided not to sew the divider to the purse because I didn't want any stitches, from the divider, visible on the outside. And if I had instead tried to sew the divider to the liner that would have required cutting the liner and the outer to oversizes <after tooling> in order to bond them together with barge and trim excess so that it would be straight. Decided early on, when I was engaged in planning, that that would be much harder and not worth the effort. Next time I will cut most pieces to oversize because I came up a little short, on one side where it meets the end, and because I would rather have the edge of the end and the edges of the side burnished together as one flat seam rather than individually burnished, as two round adjacent pieces. That also means I began burnishing too early in the process. No in-process photos. Enjoy and let me know what you think. GS