swivelsphinx

Hey Bruce! Thanks for the advice- and the caution! I can get a hold of EMT scissors, for certain. I usually layer my exotic over veg. tan before I shape it. From what you have said here, that may not be practical with this stuff! The Swivelsphinx

Hi There! I work with a few exotics like snake, lizard, fish and ostrich leg. I mostly do small pieces, such as collars and cuffs. I have a few stingray skins, and am considering the best way to cut my shapes. As I understand it, it is easier to *punch* from the back side. I often use a combination of high-quality shears and blades (Gingher and X-acto) to make my cuts in other materials. The edges are often concealed by a veg-tan frame in the end, so I have to rough up the edges of the cut piece anyway. I have used emery boards, Dremel sanding barrels and ordinary sandpaper for that. If anyone has experience cutting stingray, please let me know what side you cut from, and what tools you prefer. Thanks, The Swivelsphinx

About a year ago, an aquaintance of mine tried to pawn off on me some projects he had finished with Tandy's new line of "Eco" dyes. His lack of expertise in the medium aside, I was *still* not pleased. Now mind you, I paint in acrylic *paint* all the time. However, paint is *not* dye. Dye is not paint, and should not act like a paint! I noticed that without any finish, didn't take much to start the Eco-Line colors running ! This guy tried to tell me at the time that spirit and oil leather dyes were going to be universally banned in 2010. I called Fiebings to check that out. The rep there told me that this simply was not true. Tandy was going to phase some of them out over time, but there was no plan to stop production any time soon. Of course, I was a consumer of Tandy's Pro-Dye line for most of the tooty-fruity colors that some of my projects call for such as purple and turquoise. Fiebings still makes several greens, yellow and a few other "brights" (their red is still one of the best I've used), but sadly no on the ones such as purple. (Purple is one of those that doesn't seem to mix true). I checked out to see what other brands there were and Angellus is one that Springfield Leather carries wholesale. Angellus has some nice colors, but not purple. Anyone else have any suggestions on Spirit/Oil brands? Thanks, Swivelsphinx

I know it was awhile ago, but I could use those buckles. Please let me know what you have left, if anything, and what you want for it. Thanks, Swivelsphinx

What did you use to color the dragon? I believe I used a several thin layers of Cova gold paint over a layer of Delta Ceramcoat copper with a supershene over top. I like to layer metalics over flat colors, or other, darker metalics to keep them from looking flat. I usually prefer dye to paint, but for gold, I only know about paints and gold leaf. I've seen some people use paint markers, but that seems like a half-baked idea. Once that cured, I put Atom Wax over the whole thing. The panels the dragons are on are veg tan which I dyed to match the latigo that came pre colored. The latigo, interestingly enough, was bought by another vendor I know while he was in Amish country. I actually like Delta's Ceramcoat line better than Cova because the paint base seems deeper. I am playing around with using Delta's fabric paint mix as a thinner instead of water when I use it over a dye for leather projects. Thanks for the compliment!

Thanks for letting me know you couldn't see the photos. I re-posted them further down in the post. I haven't been on this site for awhile, so I'm still getting used to the new posting format! I don't mind the Craftool econo-knives. I am just not very good at maintaining a bevel when using a stone. However, of the knives I've attempted to sharpen myself, my angled C.Tool came out the best because the steel seems fairly soft. The Swivelsphinx [Hi Tim! Thanks for the advice! I'll take a look at the knife brand you recommended! I'm mostly using the standard Craftool knives right now. The Swivelsphinx

I'm going to attempt to re-post those photos here. Please let me know if they are visible. Thanks for letting me know that they didn't post correctly! Swivelsphinx

*Smiles* There was an "Egyptian line" of stamps in the late 70's or 80's when King Tut's treasures went on tour in the US. The collection included an ankh, scarab and an eye-of-Horus. On rare occasion, I have seen one of the scarabs and the E.o.H. on Ebay- for around 80+ bucks. I'm looking for a pentagram to cut down on my time for smaller sellable pieces. I have carved them on drinking horn bands and such before. I am having a "final look" before researching into getting a commissioned set! Thanks for your reply! The Swivelsphinx

Hey There! I am looking to purchase esoteric/occult themed stamps. Things like ankhs, pentagrams/pentacles, eye of horus, orouborous serpents would be welcome. I would prefer to see photos before purchasing items. Please feel free to message me here, or e-mail baphometis@yahoo.com Thanks, Tannin S. swivelsphinx

Hi Everyone! I've got a belt to get through with a Celtic hound/wolf/moon motif. I have carved a few triquetras , and most of them came out nicely . The seahorse was tough at the time. What I am looking for is advice on how to handle my swivel knife, and what order to tackle the lines. I do have the "standard" blade, an angled blade and several others. If anyone has links to directions and tips related to other Celtic style designs, I'd be glad to take a look! I have posted a few samples of what I have carved in the way of Celtic styled pieces in the past, and a rough mock up of the designs I want to do now. - Thanks, swivelsphinx

Thanks for the comment dirtclod! I was looking at ads for ceramic sw. knife blade this morning, and most of them claim that the ceramics "only need stropping" rather than sharpening. Sounds like the one you got diddn't live up to that claim at all! Maybe it was not properly edged to begin with.

Hi There! I've been curious to know if anyone has experience carving with ceramic bladed swivel knives vs. other popular types. I own the "cheapie standards" that Tandy and Hidecrafters sell, an old Rubyat, and several better-than average steel blades. I find the "cheapies" easiest to put an edge on, but admit that I dislike sharpening my blades because I am not comfortable with a technique yet. I am interested in how those ceramic blades might perform for non-traditional carving work.

This is a photo of a set of saddlebags I did with a golden dragon inverted carving design. The design was adapted from a piece of tattoo flash. The leather was leftover vegtan/latigo. -swivelsphinx

Hey Rawhide: Thanks for the tip on the product. I'm going to give it a try sometime! -swivelsphinx

This is a large drawstring pouch I made from some #2 grade chrome tan buffalo hide. The top grain was somewhat rough looking in places and the color slightly irregular. So, out came the pyrography kit, white leather dye and copper acrylic paint. The beads are laquered wood (black), glass pony (peach), and the cones are metal. The feathers are from guinea hen and pheasant skins. My pyrography kit goes up to approx. 2,000F and has temperature control. All the "pens" are steel with fixed points. This has made a huge difference in the quality of my lines, and the perdictability o the burn. I mention it because I used to use the cheap interchangable brass tip pens. They aren't bad for the money, but the threads on the tips tended to warp really fast, and I was spending a fair amount of money replacing them. I've had the higher-grade kit for at least 4-5 years and have not had to replace a pen yet. I use pyrography on both leather and wood. I like to carve veg. tan, but sometimes a customer wants something so complicated or small that it's not worth even pricing.

You know, I just finished some cobra skin cuffs. I buy alot of snakeskin and lizard via Ebay. Sometimes I buy "2nds" which means that the skins can be a little beat on. There's many ways to go, but here's mine. If a skin comes dry and flaky, I first treat it with Lexol conditioner. On the flesh side I apply a thin layer with a brush (sponge or chip). Often, skins from Indonesia (look for a stamp on the back) are kinda dry and papery. I wait a few minutes, then rub the remainder in with a soft cloth. Then I turn it over, and apply another thin coat *with* the scale (kinda like staining wood- "go with the grain"). I wait a few more minutes, and wipe the excess off, then roll it up and pop it into a sealable plastic baggie (even if it is only a little piece of masking tape). Thinner skins like whipsnake seem fine within a minimum of 20 minutes. Sometimes I leave them for a day or two if I am not in a rush. Big ones like big ol' pythons (like the 10 footers) I'll condition and re condition for a week. I like them flexible, because I make bags and belts. Nice thing about this conditioner is that the skins don't seem resistant to dye afterwards. I sometimes "break" the finish with reducer, deglazer (deglazer can be harsh, and there is a little risk of small holes forming in thinner skins) or, if it seems really thin and delicate, even a 50/50 vinegar/water solution. I recently dyed a king cobra (which is kinda grey when I get them) royal blue. Boy does it look *good*. I'll post a photo here if you would like. Ok. For my first finish, I brushed on neatlac. this left the skin stiff, but it was nice and shiny, and really brought out the darker part around the scales. I waited for it to dry, then buffed the scales (with the scale, always) I then applied "Saddler's TLC" to both sides ( I was out of lexol). Then I buffed again. You know, that skin stayed shiny, and that "oil shene" that neatlac can leave over a dye went away! I did my gluing with no problem, then final buffed finish. I have used TLC and Atom Wax. The TLC makes the skin flexible, but does not prevent glues from setting. (I either use a wood hide glue or Barge (original). Personally, I am not always a fan of caranuba, as it can leave a film. I happen to like my reptile skins to look kinda "slick"- shiny, not satiny. Many people do not put finishes on snakeskin. I can see why if the skin is not going to be dyed, and already has a nice finish on it. However, I like to protect the delicate scale, and do my best to keep it protected against moisture. I sell my stuff at outdoor festivals, and it can rain, turn hot, and of course, people like to get all touchy with their sweaty (and sometimes sun-block laden) hands. I can just wipe my gear off, and life goes on. Some people wonder why I do that multiple layer finish- seems like overkill to some. I also find it helps keep the edge of the snakeskin and the veg tan *sealed*. I *hate* putting tons of work into a piece only to have the edges peel back ever so slightly. A good finish seems to prevent that. Thanks for the source for your skins- I love exotics! swivelsphinx

Hey there! You know, I've been in a similar situation. Here's what I did with an old, dry 10 foot python skin. I bought some Lexol leather conditioner and applied it first to the flesh side. I used a cheap 2 inch chip brush for this. ( you could use nearly any kind of fresh applicator like a sponge or shop rag, I just like the chip brush). I left it for a 1/4 hour, then rubbed the rest of it in with a rag. For my next step, I got a large plastic freezer bag, and rolled up the skin and sealed it in after pushing out what air I could without creasing the skin. I checked it once a day for a few days, then when the skin looked dry again, I repeated. I did that three times, then added a thin layer to the top scales. I gave it this treatment for about a week. THen I took it out and buffed it with a soft cloth. It darkened slightly, but I did not mind as it was dyed red, and the colors seemed to become more vibrant. Now the skin is nice and floppy- flexible for a larger old skin. The reason to use the bag is to keep in the moisture for a bit. THe skin is bound to be "thirsty". To me, the key is to rehydrate without making it greasy or spotty on the underside. I have done this to lizard and snake with great results. I also like that the resulting product has not been resistant to contact glues like Testor's rubber cement or Barge (original). I haven't tried conditioners designed for reptiles yet. I happen to like the Lexol because it is economical, water soluable and not particularly noxious. swivelsphinx

Hey There! Very cool. I'm curious- is the stingray an "inlay" or is it "framed" with a backing? Thanks, Swivelsphinx

I've made a few pairs of custom 'bracers. Yours came out pretty nice. I happen to agree with you that you could have gone with buckles- I would have considered a buckle/snap set up (like in the standard pattern called "Cowboy Cuffs" that Tandy sells). I tend to look at "old standards" like this one and modify for whatever look or style I want. I've done RenFaire to Festish to 'Eavy Metal variants. After all, spikes aren't exactly " early Medeival period garb" , so I tend to go with practical hardware that kicks ass. As you know, spikes and studs add weight to the piece too, which can cause thinner lace to stress and stretch with little wear. A suggestion I might make for next time is to *put a bit more space between your holes (on standard forearm bracers for a large man eight (4 on each side) can do the job. , and get some thicker lace*- round if you can get it. The time I would use more holes would be if I planned on doing some fancy "Spanish style" lacing pattern. I know it might sound goofy, but if you have a spare pair of round, thick, hiking boot laces (nylon) in black, throw them in this model just to look at them and see how they tie. Some blood red or burgundy laces might look pretty cool too, if you wanna go for extra flashy. Round laces tend not to have the "twisting" issue that can make square laces a pain in the neck. If you don't like the idea of nylon- try *bolo tie cord*. It can be found in braided leather, and usually can be found with end caps, which can look really sharp and will prevent fraying on the ends. Wes Hal! swivelsphinx

Just 'cos "The Customer is Always Right" doesn't mean that the customer is sane. I work with white dye, and tend to use brushed on undiluted atom wax in multiple layers as a finish. I buff the heck out of it with something like a tight cotton flannel cloth between each layer. What do you use for a finish?

I brushed the backs of the feathers with a thin layer of "Tacky Glue" then applied them. Then, I bent the collar after this dried and added another slightly watered down layer of tacky glue. Now that I know this works, I would like to experiment with a spray-on matting adhesive (like you use for prints)which works like a contact cement. Feathers can be tricky if you are not laminating them because they tend to pop off what you adhere them to if you do not get absolute coverage. I also tend to use the feathers with the least amount of "spine", or actually "break" it by twisting the feather around a 1/4-3/4 inch dowel and pressing down the hollow section until it is fairly flat before cutting off the larger sections I want. With other feathers, like turkey, I'd remove the barbs from the spine with an X-acto, keeping the sides in tact, then *carve* a faux spine right into the leather before applying glue. Thanks for asking! swivelsphinx

This is a piece of commissioned work I did in May. This is a neck piece I did for a gentleman on commission. The leather is hand dyed veg. tan belly. The frame surrounds actual sections of peacock tail feathers. The brass hardware is a Chinese drawer pull.

What lovely pictures! I don't know what you started with for leather, but the background color is really nice. It's got a golden sheen to it in the picture. The tooling is elegant. Personally, I find it a bear to carve circles. Would you tell me the measurements on the body of this wallet when it is all folded up around the neck? Thanks, swivelsphinx

You know, I've been selling my work for at least ten years. I do wood, leather,bone...lots of different things. One of the *worst* mistakes I have made repeatedly is being too flexible. Once your customers start to chisel you, they don' t stop in my experience. It's one thing if someone asks if I can swap out a cord in on a pendant for a different color of similar make and price. That's easy- I'm happy, they are happy. If someone asked me for a discount for *removing* the cord, well, then that's a no-go. It's a set. The cord can be left with me, they can throw it away. If they "upgrade" to a chain, it's the same deal. The cord is "free" with the necklace- the pendant is "free" with the price of the cord on the card it came on. I'd tell them the clip comes with the work. If they don't want the complimentary clip, they can give it back to you at the same price as you were "giving it to them" along with paying what your materials and work is worth. It's really hard to not want to be nice to your customers in this economy. I dare say it's even harder when you are a female crafter, to be honest. "Girl training" both tends to instruct women to be flexible, *and* for people (both women and men) to expect a little extra "nice" from us-even if it means undervaluing your work, or doing something the "guy" in the next booth wouldn't do. It's none of the customer's business what you pay for your hardware anyway! If he wants a holster "special" for the clip he's got at home, I'd tell him I'd be happy to make him a custom piece at my usual rate.

I don't know how thick or large the area that you are using acrylic paints is. I do *alot* of coloring that combines acrylics with dyes. I dye first, then apply paint. If the paint area is isolatable, I put a finish on *that* first, like a brushed Super Shene or Satin Shene. When that is cured, I coat the whole project in Atom Wax. When that cures, I buff over the painted areas gently but thouroghly. The Shene underneath multiple layers of Atom Wax seems to do a very good job of protecting the acrylic paint.