Coeta

Got it fixed but then I adjusted the pressure foot height as I was working with thick leather, then it did sticth anymore doesnot pick up the stitches, so I guess i did not tighten the gear screws enough..at least I know where to fiddle now

Also checking on the parts list for the hook pinion gear, I noticed that there is thrust washer present 224022, that is the part that is missing where I have lifted up the lower bush to take up the free play.

I will check out the case opener as that is the only thing I have not really checked, just eye balled it, I can also confirm that there is no up or down movement in the hook and this cannot be adjusted on the 166 As for the statement: Be Sure Hook Driving Gears are Correctly Set with relation to the face of the hook saddle. Use .008" Shim". I'm imagining we use a .008" shim between the gear and the saddle to set end-play? It's not clear from the manual. I am not understanding this .... Edit...got a more english version of the manual and it's more clear now, checking the distance I can confirm it's much more than 1mm I will need to fix this...

Some setting on my timing is not correct , I struggle a bit finding what might be wrong when turning the wheel by hand I got about 3 stitches then it is slicing/separating the thread when the hook passes the scarf of the needle, watching it from the bottom during the upward motion the thread is creating a little loop on the bottom of the material where the hook catches it again when turning past it thus creating tremendous strain and breaks the thread, As the needle bar does not have marks on it I have set it up as described in the manual, with the needle to hook timing, Might it be the tension mechanism that does not take up the slack of the thread, ,,,Oh well it's patience that keeps playing a big roll here to get what the problem might be I do have one question though regarding the upward free play of the little gear below the hook , the hook pushes through a gear (the small one) then it runs on a driving gear (the big one), Referring to the fitment of the small gear it pushes through a brass bush that gets hold with a little screw , how far must that brass bush be pressed in the housing as i have noticed that the small gear have some upward free play of 1mm if you turn the handwheel forwards or backwards, thus it's causing a delay in the point of the hook timing to the needle to be in the centre line of the needle. I have loosened up this lock screw and lifted that brass bush upwards until there is no upward or downward freeplay for the small gear _ did I do the correct thing here or are there supposed to be any shims inserted on the top or bottom of the small gear to take up the freeplay, or must that bush be fully pressed down with the free play applicable Referring to gear - point nr 5

Resurrecting an old thread, Yep this was the last time I have used the machine, and in the mean time we have moved to another house and so the machine was neglected and stowed in the garage on the floor deep under the dust and the metal parts got some surface rust again, and sadly the tension mechanism got damaged, cant remember if I left it still working or not, So I have to work through this thread again to get the old girl operational again, setting the timing checking everything...

post some images of tubular straps done

I would also guess there is too much friction/stiffness on the thread at the needle hole as Constabulary suggested... I had similar experience when I used that sticky double sided tape when preparing to sew the material together.. when I sewed I had endless trouble with the thread not been pulled up back quick enough by the regulator spring no matter how I adjusted it...that double sided tape was just to sticky for the thread to be pulled back quick enough....after I removed that tape I had no issues... With your experience you should be able to figure it out....

F#$@n nice!!

wow this is looking very nice...keep it up very nice to some fellow's got skills

Uwe...what motor is set up with this Juki? This looks like a very nice compact portable system.

Examine the attached pic f=forward r= reverse stitches,,,the holes are not uniformly round they are longish,,this indicates to me that the feed are not correctly set as the needle is cutting the paper. will use your advise on lowering the feeddogs. on the reverse SPI - this is not close what supposed to be still struggle with the settings The front and rear gap at the feeddog in the throatplate on max SPI must the feeddog have the same size gap for forward and rear stitch or do they differ?

Lol.good luck with the young one...the material is called cordura 500g/cm we use it here to make schoolbags..very durable and weatherproof the 300g/cm is just to thin then a schoolbag only last 6 months..keen to see your note's

Well I stuff it up again..need to start from scratch settings...as I wanted to fix the reverse stitching length to be exact as forward. I realised after a week of oiling that does not sweat next to shaft entry points where they rotate on the super oilite bearings .....the oil channels were clogged up...I had to remove the shaft where the feeddog are attached thus lessons learned....if you stripp do it propperly...:-) See stitch lengths...I cant seem to figure out to correct it for revers

well finally I got the 211 to sew though I am no mechanic, had to learn how to use the thread tension system finally got it correct and I had a few threads onto the material...some minor settings might need to be tweaked as it will only do max 5 STI when adjusting the stitch length only one notch back the stitch is very small...so I suspect it must be the bottom cam that is not 100 % lined up also when reversing the needle hits the feeddog, when tested with paper it did not hit it tough maybe some screw is not fastened enough and got out of its position but I am getting there..then after about 20 stitches the thread breaks..... the thread is close to the hook point when it is under the throatplate,,cant see properly what is going on down there but I will get it fixed

The red circle in previous post...that shaft.....when the machine marks are lined up in the sync position what is the zero position that shaft must be on as there is pinned block for the reverse feeding.... With that red incircled screw loose so that the shaft can rotate I loosend the lock nut and bearing nut and set it so that there is no forward or rearward movement from the needlebar rocking frame