celticleather

The pouch that you looking to make is remarkably similar to one that I've been making for over twenty years! I use 3-3.5mm vegetable tanned leather, which I buy as natural (russet) shoulders and dye to whatever colour I require. There are some clues about flag-changing at http://leatherworker...opic=32648&st=0

Welcome to the Forum, Matt. Depending on where you are in the south-east, one of the best places to buy leather is J T Batchelor in Islington (http://jtbatchelor.co.uk/). They have just about every type of leather in stock, but I would recommend visiting them rather than relying on their rather poor website or a telephone call. You would meet Ted and/or Rocky, both of whom are extremely knowledgeable and helpful, and they would soon put you on the right track. They also have an amazing selection of tools and equipment. Le Prevo are also very good, but you can't beat seeing and feeling the leather before you buy!

Apparently there is only one manufacturer of shoe pegs left in the USA, the Kearsarge Peg Mill in New Hampshire (http://www.kearsarge...o.com/index.htm). I'll bet an email to them will reveal stockists, or perhaps they will supply direct. There's a video of their production facilities at http://vimeo.com/19504789

Denatured alcohol (methylated spirit) is excellent for removing oil dye. White spirit works quite well, too.

The n/p in the description means they are nickel-plated, so there should be no problem with rusting. If in doubt, drop Le Prevo an email.

Le Prevo in the UK have them. See 'Loops' at http://www.leprevo.co.uk/d%27s_o%27s_steel.htm

I think they make bridle butts in a variety of weights, but I'm sure they would split to whatever weight you require. No harm in asking . . . drop an email to Andrew Parr.

Baker's Tannery of Colyton in the UK supply natural (russet) bridle leather (http://www.jfjbaker.co.uk/). The picture below shows the colours available. 25 square feet of leather would probably be a large side of leather, but the square footage would include all the irregular parts of the side. The length would be perhaps 7-8 feet.

I always polish my brassware before installing it on the belt/harness/whatever. I use Duraglit, followed by a coat of Renaissance Wax, which prevents tarnishing and fingerprints on the metalwork during installation.

I guess there are probably sources in the US . . . someone on here will know . . . but if you get stuck, College Sewing Machine Parts in the UK have a good range of 29K parts and accessories - https://www.college-...k/default.aspx.

I give my buckles a good polish, and then a coat of Renaissance Wax (http://www.picreator...issance_wax.htm). It forms a transparent coating on the brass, and helps to prevent the tannins in the leather from oxidising the brass. It's readily available on eBay, and the 200ml size lasts for years! The Queen uses it, too!

I made some similar washers for a cart a couple of years ago. I used 6mm sole leather, which you could probably get from a local shoemaker or repairer. It's very heavily compressed - almost like plywood - and stands up well to friction. It should be well oiled with neatsfoot oil before installation. I used a washer cutter, but there's no reason why it can't be done with a sharp craft knife (or even a coping saw!). Cut the outside of the washer slightly oversize, and the hole slightly undersize, and sand it down to the correct dimension . . . perhaps with a Dremel or something similar.

Both Abbey England (http://www.abbeysadd...en-gb/home.aspx) and Le Prevo (http://www.leprevo.co.uk/) in the UK stock Fiebing's products and are happy to ship overseas. As Cyberthrasher has suggested, it would be advisable to check whether they are able to ship your specific requirements to the UAR.

There's an explanation of the British system of thread sizes at http://www.bowstock....alog/Linen.html, which may or may not be useful! I use 18/3 for most of my work . . . belts, bags, pouches etc, but I'll occasionally use 25/3 for lightweight leathers. Can't help with the pros and cons of waxing artificial sinew . . . I've never used it!

Check out eBay Item No 380405088966. Looks like it could be a good machine when it's been overhauled (as in the description). We use a 29K71 for doing the type of work you're starting . . . it's ideal for for this.

Welcome to the Forum, the repository of all leatherwork knowledge (or most of it!) . . . you have some good-looking work! I guess Florida to Finland must have been a body-shock! If you're keen to get hold of a good range of Fiebing's products, I would recommend Le Prevo (http://www.leprevo.co.uk/) or Abbey Saddlery (http://www.abbeyengland.com/) in the UK. Both companies are very reliable, and happy to ship overseas, but Abbey require you to register with them to get access to prices on their website. Hope you're enjoying the Northern Lights!

There are some useful tutorials at http://www.bowstock.co.uk/tutorials.html. They will give you a good idea of the tools and methods used in hand stitching.

There's a pretty good method here, in Badger's post, using a junior hacksaw frame: http://leatherworker...h=1 I use it all the time, and it really works!

Fiebing's do a very good orange dye, available in 4oz bottles if you only need a small amount. http://www.fiebing.c...lor_Charts.aspx

Do a Google search for 'Klebfest Glue'. It's an excellent leather and rubber glue, ideal for shoe and leather work. It's readily available in Europe.

I have had an enquiry from a gentleman who has a trench-coat with leather-covered buckles. He is looking to replace these, or get them re-covered in light brown veg-tan. I don't carry stock of leather thin enough for this, so if there's anyone out there who can suggest where he can either obtain new buckles, or who is able to re-cover the existing ones, please drop me a pm. I will be happy to put him in touch with you. The picture below shows the style and size of the buckles.

Take about a teaspoonful of the cement and pour it onto a flat surface (like a plate or saucer) and allow it to air-dry completely. When dry, peel it off the plate, and mould it into a ball. This can then be used to lightly rub the surfaces that need cement removed, and will lift the cement easily. I've even used this method to remove cement from sueded leather.

Not unless you can find a cow that has its outside skin on the inside as well as the outside . . . if you see what I mean! Perhaps an inside-out cow!

Obviously not on Leatherworker.net! I bought a machine from them about 5 years ago and had it shipped to the UK. They sent me a bunch of freebies that totalled about $700! I've never had such good service from any company . . . US or UK!