celticleather

Check here http://www.bowstock.co.uk/tan_win.html for the way to lock your thread onto the needle . . . and lots of other useful tutorials. As for the holes-not-lining-up problem, it looks like you should have put four(?) stitches in the centre between the two panels, instead of two. You may find it safer to lightly glue the pieces in position before you start stitching. Remember Theodore Roosevelt, who said, The only man who makes no mistakes is the man who never does anything. Do not be afraid to make mistakes providing you do not make the same one twice.

Backstitch - and lots of other stuff! - here: http://www.bowstock.co.uk/backstit0.html

And wherever possible, get your money upfront!

John I know that Abbey Saddlery and H Webber (http://www.hwebber.c...craft_tools.htm) stock some Osborne tools, but not necessarily what you're looking for. Looks like you may end up doing a little importing! (Which may be the cheaper option, because most importers just double the price when they re-sell.) Terry

John As Luke says, in the US this is called a Fitter's Hammer, and is available from C S Osbourne (http://www.csosborne.com/NO1999.HTM). The nearest thing I've seen in the UK is called a Smasher, from Abbey Saddlery (http://www.abbeysaddlery.co.uk/product_detail.cfm?id=FS027). Terry

A simple fishtail may be a good place to start . . . it doesn't weaken the strap.

There are probably as many different answers to this as there are leatherworkers! My own preference is to use Leather Balm with Atom Wax. It gives a good deep shine, and doesn't seem to modify colours - except for a general darkening which fades back after a while. I use white and yellow thread, and it does not have any bad effect on the thread colour.

Hi Katkon . . . welcome to the Forum! You mentioned your 'nearest store in Newcastle' . . . I'm guessing that's Le Prevo - very helpful and obliging people! There's acres of useful information at http://www.kingsmerecrafts.com/ (scroll to bottom of page) or at http://www.bowstock..../tutorials.html . . . probably a fortnight's reading! And then, of course, here on the Forum. Loads of useful stuff and helpful people! Have fun! Terry

A Father's Day gift from one of my daughters . . . bless her! Hrmph! Anyone else get anything useful, complimentary, etc?

A treasure-chest!!

Looks like what you lack in experience is more than made up for in enthusiasm . . . excellent!! I suggest that Tandy awls are good for cleaning fingernails - not much else! Le Prevo are brilliant - been using them for over 25 years. They also have a superb Superstrong hide, that is ideal for really serious dog-stuff . . . see http://www.leprevo.co.uk/hides.htm. Let's see some results soon!

You're welcome . . . glad to be of help! I think these people also have them, but you'd probably need to order 100s or 1000s! http://www.fhtomkins.com/documents/buckles%20&%20fittings%20flyer.pdf

Here you go . . . Le Prevo are quite happy to ship overseas. http://www.leprevo.co.uk/photos/KL58.htm

Fascinating! We found some 1000-year-old Viking boots when I worked on a dig in York thirty years ago. I thought they were old, but compared to this, they were youngsters!

These are called hook studs, and are available in a number of different sizes and styles from http://www.abbeysaddlery.co.uk/ or from http://www.leprevo.co.uk/saddlery.htm. Both companies are happy to ship overseas, and I don't think they have minimum order requirements.

Failures are steps in the ladder of success!

Abbey Saddlery in the UK have them . . . listed as Compass Race. They're fairly pricey at £46.00, but the quality will be excellent! http://www.abbeysaddlery.co.uk/

There's a supplier on eBay who could cut you a blank to order . . . take a look here http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BELT-STRAPS-CUT-ORDER-ECONOMY-FINEST-LEATHER-/130381442578?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Crafts_Leathercraft_LE&hash=item1e5b56ee12

These are called hook studs, and are available in a number of different sizes and styles from http://www.abbeysaddlery.co.uk/

If your A1 is anything like mine, I don't think needle length is too much of a priority. The needle is held in a clamp, and can be moved up and down to achieve the correct position before tightening the clamping screw. According to the manual, ''The needle is fixed in the needle bar, with the long groove toward the operator. Near the top of the needle bar is a line across it. Turn the machine until this line is level with the top of the machine head. With the machine in this position the middle of the eye of the needle should be level with the top of the throat plate.'' So long as the needle is long enough to fit in the clamp with the eye in the correct position, I guess the only critical measurement would be the distance between the eye of the needle and the point. When I bought my machine, it came with 90-odd needles, which were a complete hotch-potch of sizes and manufacturers; I've swapped and changed needles without any problems.

May be worth asking these people if they can come up with a reasonable price . . . they ship worldwide. Take a look at their online catalogue. http://www.fhtomkins.com/index.htm

Abbey Saddlery in the UK has a good range of these, in flat steel, nickel or brass plated, or in solid cast brass. They're quite happy to send stuff overseas. http://www.abbeysadd...ail.cfm?id=C069

The history of Naugas can be found here: http://www.naugahyde.com/history.html

Brilliant job . . . looks better than any shop-bought horse!

Here's a method from 'Saddlery and Harness-Making', published 1904. It's written in fairly quaint old English, but the method is good! Wax threads.pdf Wax threads.pdf