celticleather

A French curve to make an English point? Could create an International Incident! Here's the traditional way to make an English point: 1 Set dividers to the width of the belt. 2 With the divider point close beside the belt, scribe an arc. 3 Place the divider point opposite the first centre-point, and scribe a second arc. The intersection of the two arcs is the English point. This method could also be used to make a template. Much cheaper than a strap punch!

Have a look at Le Prevo in the UK (http://www.leprevo.co.uk/index.htm). They have a useful range of leathers, and offer worldwide distribution.

No idea about US suppliers, but both sizes are available at http://www.abbeysadd...at_id=SADD0004. (Look under Saddlery Buckles.) They are quite happy to ship overseas.

I'm looking for way to give shiny brass or nickel-plated brass buckles a 'satin' finish. I've played around with fine wire wool and Scotchbrite, but the result is invariably scratches - albeit very fine scratches - on the surface. I don't have the facilities to sand-blast the buckles, and wonder if anyone out there has any bright (or satin finished!) ideas.

Hmm . . . I thought these were some kind of maze puzzles - get from one corner to the other without crossing a line. No wonder I couldn't solve any!

Some of the best quality brassware I've seen is at http://www.poursin-p....fr/index.html. It's certainly not cheap, but the quality is superb!

There is hardly anything in the world that some men cannot make a little worse and sell a little cheaper, and the people who consider price only are this man's lawful prey. - John Ruskin

I've had this problem when sewing the self-adhesive Velcro. I fixed it by running the thread through the oil bath . . . it stops the needle from picking up the adhesive.

Hi Topper . . . welcome to the Forum! You could try https://www.college-...uk/default.aspx, or failing that, speak to David Flint at http://www.flintindustrial.com/. He's a very helpful guy, and often has come-in-handy bits and pieces available.

Depending on how much time and trouble you wish to take, you might try contacting Simpleway Shoes in the UK. They have a good range of shoe styles in a variety of colours. You would need to take a few measurements across the feet, and kits can be supplied to accommodate individual foot sizes (even if the wearer has different size left and right feet). I have used their kits to make shoes for people who have deformed or distorted feet, and have found them to be extremely easy to use, with good results. They are very helpful people, and have always responded well to my orders. http://www.simpleway...og/Comfort.html

Casemaker Thanks for the offer, but 2" would be too wide. PapaSmurf After I posted my request I remembered that Abbey Saddlery purchased the Stanley Brothers buckle foundry a couple of years ago. I have spoken to the foundry manager today, and they will be happy to add an extra prong to whichever buckles I choose, for a few pence extra. What a wonderful service! The Sam Browne buckles are unfortunately too narrow to accommodate a 15oz leather, but there are a number of others that would work. I have an account with Abbey, so there should be no problem. Many thanks.

I'm looking for a UK supplier/manufacturer of 1½" or possibly 1¾" double-prong buckles, preferably in cast brass, but plated steel or nickel may be OK. If anyone has any bright ideas, I'd be grateful for a link or contact number.

I made a doming tool by drilling a very shallow hole - more of a depression than a hole - in a round stock bar. The result was not perfectly round, but I find that by rotating it by a couple of degrees as I hammer the rivet, the result is a perfectly formed dome!

OK Ray . . . here goes another trade secret! I use Renia Klebfest neoprene glue to fix zips before stitching. The tubes have a narrow nozzle, with which it is possible to make a 4mm line of glue on the leather, and a similar line on the zip tape. Allow the glue to dry. When it's time to complete the assembly, the glue can be re-activated by gently warming, and it then becomes a powerful contact adhesive. Press the zip into place, and it'll stay there while the stitching is done. I tried double-sided tape many years ago, but (1) it's too wide and (2) it clogs up the machine needle unless the thread is run through an oil-bath, which then leaves oily marks on the leather. Super-glue is an absolute no-no! It soaks into the leather and turns it into something resembling concrete! Renia Klebfest is available from http://www.tcolledgeandson.com/ in 60g tubes. Hope this helps! Terry

That's the way to do it, Luke!

You definitely need a diamond awl, sharpened and polished in the way described here . . . http://www.bowstock.co.uk/saa.html. As Timd says, it will make life a whole lot easier!

Here you go . . . http://www.kayospruce.com/index.asp?selection=find&cct=11 or http://www.acorncanvas.com/index.php?cat=Lift_The_Dots&ActinicSID=fdf570e16bb5113a28926f83b9649652

Mike Have you tried College Sewing Machines (https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/)? Their website is a bit of a nightmare, so a phone call would probably be quicker. May also be worth trying David Flint at http://www.flintindu...dex.php/Contact if you haven't already. David rebuilds machines and is usually very helpful. Terry

Take a look at pictures 6 and 7 on this website http://www.journeyman-leather.co.uk/aboutleatherworking8.html

See http://www.bowstock.co.uk/saa.html . . . some good tips here!

Could be a fall down staple . . . see http://www.abbeysaddlery.co.uk/product_listing.cfm?page=1

I'd already tried Le Prevo, and although the thread looked the same, the labels didn't have the word 'glanz' (gloss) on them. I spoke to Jan in their sales department, and she went to the trouble of checking through all their stock, and discovered that those with 'glanz' on the label, and those without, were exactly the same thread! Top marks to Jan at Le Prevo for taking the time to solve this little mystery . . . my thread will be in the post tomorrow!

I'm looking for a particular type of linen thread that I use for hand-sewing. It's an 18/3, and the spool-end label says WMZ Exportklasse NeL 18/3Z-glanz ['glanz' is German 'gloss'] 50gr. - gelb 125 ['gelb' is German 'yellow'] 1007 - 320416 [maybe just a batch number] I bought it a couple of years ago, and I can't track down (remember!) the supplier. It has a glossy or polished finish, as opposed to the 'fluffy' finish that is common on linen thread. It is almost certainly of German origin, and if anyone (especially our Continental friends) can point me to a manufacturer/supplier, I'd be ecstatic!

Here's the method I use . . . probably the same as you've been using for unwaxed thread. http://www.bowstock.co.uk/tan_win.html