Handstitched

G'Day, After repairing horse rugs with my Seiko STW28B all day, I bent a needle....it happens. So,I changed the needle and while I was at it, I also cleaned and oiled the machine up, as some rugs can be quite dusty . But when I started sewing again, nothing was going right, my stiches were 'codging up' underneath, my thread was breaking when I reversed, and the machine just didn't sound right, I just put it down to too much oil somewhere or my tensions were all over the place, it was going perfect all day otherwise... ( the client also desperately needed their horse rug back for the weekend) .I ended up finishing the rug off on my Colt....around 11pm. The next day I went about solving my problem, on the Seiko. After a few hours of checking and re-checking , pulling my hair out from frustration , I checked the needle, it was in the WRONG WAY AROUND. groove to the right, scarf to the left. DUH!!!!!! I was tired and it was late...that my excuse!! HS

Very impressive !!! Beautifully carved and nice colour. Well done. HS

G'Day , Thank you very much, it is nice to get some feedback. I had to 'cut & paste' different parts of roses & leaf patterns , and then move them around until they looked right and suited the bags, but I am very happy with the end result. About the only thing I would do a bit different,is change the rose at the centre/ front , I had to fold the strap back into the keeper, otherwise it would cover the centre rose, but apart from that , I'm happy, and I very much enjoyed making them. ( PS. Why don't my emoticons work?...even though they show up when I type posts) have a great day HS

G'Day , Its not very often that I show my stuff off , but after even impressing myself this arvo, I thought , why not:yes: . These saddle bags made to the clients requirements, won't be going on a horse, but have been slightly modified to go on a small motor bike for a charity bike run up north ( Western Australia). They look a bit too nice now to go on a motor bike. You can also see another pair in the background in the pic.( and my messy workshop) enjoy:yes: HS

G'Day CG, I'm not sure if this is of any help, but I hope does , maybe for future reference. I had no idea how to remove the shuttle, but being self taught in almost everything........I do now http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=31115 good luck. All the best, HS

G'Day again, I appreciate that the sewing machine technicians, and many others already know this,but every bit of info might help someone else that might new to sewing machines. But I had a minor quibble with the bobbin tension, the tension needed to be a bit tighter, as there was no tension at all . I had no idea how to do this , other than the scant info in the users manual, and theres no sewing machine techs where I live . So, the only way to find out ( like with everything else that I've done) is to work it out for myself. (The STW28B is normally a twin needle, but I have it set up for a single needle....in case anyone is wondering) I found it difficult and a bit awkward to get to the tension/adjusting screw on the outside of the shuttle ( my fat hands didn't help either), it was easier to remove the shuttle altogether. Heres what I did. I learnt that theres 2 tiny screws on the flat retainer plate that holds the shuttle in place.( good eyesight/ magnifiers and good light will be very helpful) First I magnetised a miniature/precision screw driver, (so I wouldn't lose the screws), and I then carefully and slowly unsrewed them, and carefully lifted the tiny screws out with a pair of tweezers,and I lifted the shuttle out. (the screws were a bit tight, so I positioned the screw driver in the screw and gave the end of the screw driver a few light taps with a small tack hammer , they then came loose,...and old mechanics trick). It only took a few moments to adjust the tension on the shuttle. Theres 2 tiny screws on the shuttle/bobbin tensioner itself, the one I adjusted was the one closest to the slot where the thread comes out. I then took great care not to lose the screws when putting it back in. And now, so far so good, the stitch now looks pretty good when I sew. Theres some pics, one of the machine and one of the shuttle, you may have to zoom in a bit to see those tiny screws. I hope this info helps someone else new to sewing machines. All the best HS

Dear Sir/ Madam, Every time I try to use the emoticons, they never seem to appear in my posts??. Is there something that I am doing wrong? Thanks Handstitched Name: Handstitched UserName: Handstitched IP Address: 203.206.7.75 Email Address: tcrenhartofohpwa@yahoo.com.au

G'Day Grady, No doubt you've now had more info than you can poke a stick at. It took a long time for me to decide which machine to buy, but once I bought it, I was happy as a pig in...'you know what' . My machine is a 'Colt' by 'Q'Stitch in Queensland Australia, similar to the Cobra Class, or 4500 etc. Heres a pic of it: http://www.flickr.com/photos/40990121@N05/4111321665/ I was a bit nervous when I first started sewing on it, ( because the only other machine I used before that is a Pfaff 60...it was quite a leap forward ) . But the more I sewed on it, the more I learnt, and the more confident I became. It has since adopted a nickname ' Brutus ', it's just a silly reference I made once , and it has somehow stuck. I have broken a few needles when I was learning, but thats only because of the operator (me) not the machine. I keep it well serviced, clean, and oiled up , and I always keep it and my threads covered up when not in use ( it gets dusty where I live ) . I find my machine forever reliable, and no doubt the other machines simliar to mine are just as reliable. Look after them and they'll look after you. Good luck with your purchase and happy sewing. All the best, HS:thumbsup:

G'day Bob, Thank you so much for your reply. 'Mystery' solved. After reading that, I don't think I'll be buying it. No doubt it will sew and repair horse rugs quiet easily,( a business move that I'm about to undertake) but it would take a LOT of practice for me to get the stitches nice and neat. I maybe good...but not THAT good. And besides, I already have a machine that does all that (and more) anyway. ('Brutus' http://www.flickr.com/photos/40990121@N05/4111321665/ ) Plus another machine , also to assist in horse rug repairs (pic attached) , that works beautifully. Once again, thank you very much. All the best, HS

G'Day , As my heading suggests, I have been offered a Singer 133k13 machine ( head only) ,but before I accept it ( if I accept it ) , I went looking for some info on the net, without much luck, as I know nothing about this type of machine. It is quite an old looking machine, and what have already learnt ( from observation) is that its a manual material feed machine (as in, no feed dogs to push the material through). It was turning quite tightly, but after a good clean and oil up it now turns sweetly.Also , theres no foot lifter/lever, it seem to do that as it turns , the foot is round. ( what a strange machine ...???) At this point , I have no use for such a machine, but maybe some more info would be helpful, and indeed a link to a free manual download. I have attached a file photo of a 133k13. Thanks HS

G'Day again, Well, I finally got the Seiko machine home on the weekend, with a bit of help from my Father.( Those machines are heavy old brutes) The first thing I did before I even plugged it in and switched it one , was give it a good clean, remove dust etc.In fact, it was cleaner than expected. Then I gave it a good oiling all over, on every accessable moving part. Once I was confident enough, I plugged it in switched it on. It worked very sweetly indeed, smooth, quiet, no strange knocks , bonks, or any other strange noises. It is set up for single needle , with provisions for twin needle. I'm happy with single needle at this point. I ran it for a while to run the oil in (without thread). The motor doesn't look all that old. It came with thread stand, assorted spare bobbins, spare feet, spare needles, and two(new) full rolls of industrial thread. In amongst the spare needles, is a new needle for the boot patcher that I bought previous. (I don't know what that was doing there). I did pay the owner for it. I just need to learn how to thread it, and use it. I'll figure it out. all the best, HS

Thanks once again for the advice. I have printed off that info that you have given. That 'lead' on a stand for the 53 , is also a supplier of needles , thread etc for some vintage machines, including patchers, so I will be giving him a call very soon. I seem to have machines coming out all over the place. There is a second patcher on the horizon that I have been told about by a friend , as well as a Seiko STW 28B ( in good working order) that a neighbour is willing to just give me, but I will give her somethng for it. Seems to be good start to 2011 as far as machines go. Best regards, HS

G'Day , Well I finally got the machine home after a long drive.I did try knocking the price down, but he wouldn't budge....bugger ....it was worth a try. Anyway, looks can be deceiving, despite its appearance, it runs a lot smoother than I expected. I looked closely at how many stitches it can achieve. Still using the old needle that is still in it, it can do stitches 4mm long and I used a piece of 2.5mm veg tan off cut. I also tried two layers of 2.5mm veg (5mm) , still the same...4mm long, even with the old needle, it went thru easier than I expected. So, if it can do that, well, it is certainly going to do what I bought it for. I'll have to take some pics of the stitching. Also, after cleaning the little copper and brass plates, I discovered thats it's not a 55, but a 53, not a great deal of difference really. Apart from cleaning the surface rust on the arm etc, ,and giving it some TLC, theres not a great deal that I'll be doing to it. I won't touch the logo's etc that are remaining, I'd like to keep those. I am happy with it. There is also one more 53 (or 55) that I know about, that I'll be getting, but not sure if it is complete. I have also got a lead on a stand for the 53. All the best, HS

G'Day, I did manage to get a closer look at the machine a short time ago, its is a single needle machine, but can take a twin needle if need be. The tensioners are all in tact but I couldn't find a stitch (length) adjustment, the owner said the stich was 'set' (?) thats a bit unusual. It all turns so smoothly too. But now I can't wait to get it home have a 'play' with it. But I did also say, "You are NOT giving me this machine for nothing....I'll definitely give you something for it" , thats what mates do . all the best HS

G'Day again, I mentioned earlier in another thread that my "sewing machine bucket list is almost complete", and one of the machines that I was going to get was a Singer 132K6, however, since then I found out that a neighbour just so happens to have an industrial machine that she is willing to let me have. ( I will give her something for it , as 'theres no such thing as a free lunch' in my book) but anyway , Its not a 132K6, but , it is a Seiko STW 28B walking foot, which she had intended to use it to repair horse rugs. I spotted it on her back verandah after rendering her some assistance during a violent destructive storm at the weekend ( of all things). I have been searching the net, but I don't have a lot of info on the machine, so any feedback on this machine would be helpful, or even some pics/ links. I have sent an email to Seiko in Japan for some info, ie , 'What type of machine it is , what type of materials it can sew , and how thick ? manuals ? etc. What I have learned , that it maybe a twin needle (?) I am hoping that it can be used with a single needle as well? She is willing to let me have it, so I can't really complain too much about the brand or the quality of the machine. And yes, its all in good working order too, and although she hasn't used it , she has looked after it and kept it under cover. So many thanks yet again, all the best, HS

G'Day again, Thanks heaps for the feed back. I think I will be spending some time (.....and some cash) to bring it up to scratch. I have no intention of putting heavy leathers through it perhaps, 2-2.5mm .... 3mm thick at the most.. But I will certainly put it through it paces to see what it can do and paying close attention to what parts are worn, how many stitches it does, but I won't be setting my expectations to high. If it does need some mechanical TLC, then the search of parts will begin. I also have a friend here in my own town that also has a patcher for sale , so I might be purchasing that as well. My machine 'bucket list' is almost complete. I have a Pfaff 60 , (my Mothers old machine ) which is ideal for thin/light stuff, can sew up to 2.5 mm. I have my Colt, ( as you saw in the picture) which is ideal for the thick heavy stuff ( great investment too) I now have all the adjustments just perfect now, and never misses a beat. I just need a patcher, for the 360 deg foot for doing odd stitches, and perhaps a Singer 132k60 (or simliar) for 'inbetween' stuff and for doing horse rugs etc. ( I have been asked to do those now) I will be buying that old patcher, but I will certainly pay attention to the feed back here when I finally get it home. But I'll give it a good oil up first. I'll keep you informed how it goes. Thanks heaps once again. HS

Bugger!! Take 3 The file was too big....thats why. sorry about that:( OK....try this instead. http://www.flickr.com/photos/40990121@N05/5392883550/ hope that helps. (chech out the other pics if you like) Thanks HS

G'Day again, I don't know why , but the pic didn't attach. I'll try again HS

G'Day, I have just got off the phone a few moments ago, and after much deliberation, I have decided to purchase a Singer 29K55 patcher machine after seeing it advertised in the classifieds, in fact, its been in there for approx 3 weeks.It was in the 'sewing machine ' section, but was moved to the 'antiques and collectables ' section, as the age was advertised as '1912' .(?) I received a photo of it via email a short time ago. I just need some feed back on what you think.(?) The seller is a former leather worker himself and still has some of his tools (and after seeing my leather work , may inspire him to get back into it....we need more leather workers:thumbsup: ) And , despite its rusty appearance, I have been given assurance that it is all in working order...including the most important bit (for me), the 360 degree rotating foot. I haven't used these machines before , and I don't know very much about them. It hasn't got a stand , but I'll look for one later. The only downside is that it over 3 1/2 hrs drive away further south of me in regional Western Australia. (I'm quite used to driving long distances in one arvo ) After reading quite a few posts on here regarding the restoration of these old machines, I think the best course of action would be, go over the arm with some steel wool ( and remove any other surface rust) and to just to give it a good oil up, and not bother painting it, as I don't want to lose the remaining decals.(?) I think someone on here mentioned that they look good with their 'patina'. Any other advice would be appreciated. The amount I'm paying is, $250 Australian. Thanks in advance. HS

G'Day , my response is 'better late than never', but nonetheless , I had a post pertaining to a similar problem 'To Back stitch or not to back stitch' ( or somethng like that). I got some good helpful responses from that. Since then I always back stitch 3-4 stitches. However , I have never tried burning the ends. I might experiment with that. all the best , HS

G'Day again, Thanks for the responses and the great ideas. I have taken some pics of the belts I've made using the off cuts, as well as the brass 'dees' that I used. My leather working skills may not be up to the standard of a more experienced leather worker, but you'll get the idea. I do sometimes make key rings, fridge magnets etc from the off cuts, but making these 3 piece belts, I can get a much higher return from them, and being 3 piece, the style, pattern and colour combinations are endless. Enjoy:thumbsup:

G'Day from a very hot Western Australia, and a belated Happy New Year to all. Its been quite a while since I have been on here, but quite some time ago I was wondering what to do with the belt blank off cuts besides turning them into book marks , wrist bands etc. I did experiment joining two off cuts together by skiving the ends and glueing them together to make one long piece,( I also tried rivets) I wasn't happy with the way those experiments looked...needless to say....that failed !! But then I came across some 'belting dee's', made of solid brass ( no doubt you may already have heard of them?, just keep in mind I am still learning), however, I can't find any in nickle plate or stainless steel....yet. They came in 3 sizes 25mm, 38mm & 32 mm and approx 2.5mm thick, and slip nicely through a standard size belt loop on a pair of jeans, as they are just the right size and shape and thickness, and being brass, look quite nice too. I have just made 3 different styles of belts to experiment with, and so far so good, they do look quite good. They are a 3 piece belt, the billet end , centre piece, and the buckle end. When I am finished, I'll take some pics and post them on here. Anyway, all the very best to all, and I'll post those pics hopefully in the near future. HS

G'day again, Wasn't long since I last posted. My brain went a million miles an hour just now, but I think I've got it. Instead of just joining the two cut ends together, try this: Skive one the end of one blank off cut to half its thinkness on the flesh side, for example, approx 2" to 3" in. Then, do the same on the other off cut , but on the grain side so that the two pieces overlap. The shaped patch can still be applied, and perhaps the lining as well, but at least if you're using the machine, the needle will have something to 'grab', rather than dissappear between a join. There's no doubt a name for that type of join in woodwork...but I don't know what its called. Some will say "I already knew that!!" ha ha !! O'h well , can't wait to try that out now all the best HS

Thanks for your response. I'm guessing that I would need to put a lining on the inside of the belt which would have to go the full length of the belt , or put the same size shaped patch ( of a lighter grade leather) on the inside. I do agree with making the shaped patch the feature of the belt though , I think thats a great idea. I think I might experiment with scraps first , and then decide what work best. No doubt the strength will be there, but whether a customer would buy a belt with a join in it may be another matter. I can only try. If I get a chance to do so, I'll take some pics either of the finished belt, or of the 'experiments'. Thanks again

G'day from upsidedown land. I wasn't sure what title to use , but anyway. I do feel a bit of a goose asking this, but when we all make belts , obviously theres the off cuts. Depending on the length of the belt , I'll have off cuts in various lengths left over ,some of which I turn into book marks , key rings or dog collars, straps etc. or perhaps ranger belts suitable for a childs waist or a small adult waist. But if I wanted to use those off cuts to make a full length adult size belt , for example , we'll say a 42" , what would be the neatest and/or tidiest way of joing two pieces together?? Rivet , stitch, or both?? Do you try to hide the join, or intentionally make the join obvious ?? I appreciate that 'O' rings 'D' rings etc. can also be used as part of the belt design. Any ideas ?? Thanks in advance All the best, HS