Handstitched

G'day, Practice as much as you can with the basket weave stamps . They do take some getting used to, but they are very effective, and look so nice. there are a few vids on youtube for 'how to....basket weave' hope that helps a bit. I'm still learning how to do horses in leather, but thats one of my better ones. I keep going back to that pic and think, "yep.... I like that " It makes me smile when I look at it. Its so much better than my earlier attempts at carving horses. Its THE one aspect of carving that I would love to get right. I love horses. I have horses all around me in my area,I have heaps of harnesses ,saddles , bridles etc hanging up in my workshop and even in Chinese astrology, I am a horse. Just following a natural path I guess But thank you. All the best, HS

G'Day , and thank you very much for your feedback. A stubby holder is for an ice cold stubby of beer. I'll attach a pic for you. And as its been the hottest summer on record down here in 'upsidedownland' right across the country , and the beer is going down like water In my part of West Oz as @ 3.40pm , is just over 40 degs C . ( over 100F in your lingo) Its been much hotter than that in the past few months. Those ( printed) foam rubber stubby holders serve their purpose of keeping the beer cold, but a nice handcrafted leather one is so much nicer, ........and fun to make. And whats even more fun , is consuming the contents to get the logo off the cans Thank you once again and all the best HS

G'Day again, Heres that experimental phone case I was talking about: http://www.flickr.com/photos/40990121@N05/8404653317/in/photostream/ I timed myself and made that one in under an hour. Once you open the velcro flap, the phone is about 1" - 1 1/4" proud, enough to easily slide the phone out. I might make the velcro a bit smaller next time, but my thinking for that large piece , was to accomodate variations in different size phones. After I stitched it and while it was still slighly damp, I pushed the wooden mould in ,and I then used the rounded corner of a quite a large thick 'D' ring to give it a nice shape on both sides , it also helps to remove any machine marks. as a result of being a bit damp. I have also made a few more, black & saddle tan. I might also play around with some other designs that have been 'buzzing' around in my head, as well as different sizes widths, depths, tooled etc. Also, this is my latest stubby holder: http://www.flickr.com/photos/40990121@N05/8404652847/in/photostream/ I love making those. They are time consuming, but its worth it You can see the front of it, just to the right of screen on my photo stream bit. All th best HS I'm still learning how to do the horses.

G'Day, I feel the same as Cameroo. The use of a beveller will tidy up the edges, but otherwise, really nice work. One thing I taught myself, was to use the narrow rounded bit of a wooden handle of one of my tools as a burnisher, especially for hard to get at places, tight curves, corners, etc. I 've been experimenting with a similar design (similar to the first few pics) for some hand held devices. A one piece, folded over, with belt loop, but machine stitched, and then a wooden mould pushed in after I've dampened it. @ Narrowsuch, I was originally born in Haverhill in Suffolk, but spent nearly all my life in Australia. All the best to all, HS

G'day I quite like it. Is that Supa Shene that you used to get that nice shine? Also, not knowing too much about these, are those holes for the mic or a camera perhaps?? I have also found that talking to those that have these handheld devices, the cases that come wth them ( if any) are ...well... crap, according to their owners. So I'm finding an increase in demand for a nice case, custom case , and/or hardcase to go with them, especially tradies. Now , changng the subject a bit, here in Australia, all ciggy packets now have plain packaging, and have some pretty graphic health warnings on them , and now as a result more people are asking for cigarette/tobacco cases to hide the ugly health warnings. I hope to come up with a 'quick & simple to assemble' design to suit all ciggy packets. But good work on the Galaxy case All the best Handstitched

Hey Natalie, I quite like that too, well done. I also agree about your 'signtaure', or makers mark., just like what bluesman said, just something that says ' This is mine , I made it, this is my mark ' I too have my own makers mark , but I've been quite slack in putting it on my work, as involves a wood burner type tool ( just a cheap glorified soldering iron really ) , but it is effective. I am thinking of getting a custom made stamp with my initials and logo on it that I can imprint/burn into my work. But well done again. all the best, HS from Western Australia

G'Day Dwight, I like that . That may well be the only and quickest, and cheapest solution on large numbers of plain belts. I'll still do nice fancy handstitched keepers on the custom belts though. I sort of watched 'High Plains Drifter' Clint Eastwood this arvo in my workshop ....that was until I got interupted by a customer Thanks for that HS

G'day again, and thank you for the prompt replies. The method I use is the 'ye olde' fashioned method, make holes with an awl, two holes made at either end of the keeper which is approx 15 mm wide, a length of thread, (knot at one end) , single needle, with the needle passed through the holes twice. I wind the thread around where the join is , and pull firmly, so that the thread looks like an 'X' on the inside. I like the idea of the staples, nice and quick, but how would the customers feel about that? The keepers themselves are made easily and quick enough........just insy winsy belts, its the hand stitching/joining thats time consuming. Thanks once again, HS

G'Day From a very stormy Western Australia, After making over 2 dozen belts in a row the other (very late) night,I thought to myself, "there has to be a quicker way to join the keepers". So, I was wondering if there is a much quicker and acceptable way of joining the the belt keepers? Mainly on large amounts of plain belts. ( my 'bread & butter belts' as I call them) Handstitching is all well and good and I do enjoy it, , but when theres many belts to be made, handstitching over 2 doz belt keepers, (somestimes more) becomes rather boring and laborious, I can almost do it with my eyes closed. All the best, Thanks HS

G'Day , I've been asked to do a saddle for a rocking horse, however, out of all the unusual jobs I've been asked to do, I haven't done a rocking horse saddle. The client doesn't want anything too fancy, but still looking nice, a basic shape, but also slightly padded, and somewhere to attach some stirrup straps. ( just like the real ones) Any links/pics to a cutting pattern, tracing pattern etc. , but especially assembly ?? This job has taken a back seat for quite a while, and its about time I got it finished. I'd like to clear my jobs board before the end of the year, and this is one of them. Thanks HS

Thank you very much. I enjoyed making them, and I am happy with the end result..... for my first binder. Theres some very interesting reading there too, I enjoyed reading it.. Theres not a great deal of difference in how crops are harvested here in Oz, and the US. Harvesting started approx 3-4 weeks ago. Some start sooner, and some later. Most of the crops out my way are oats, wheat, canola ( some call that rape seed) and lupins. Canola gets harvested much later when its dry. But most of the harvesting is completed before Summer kicks in.Theres often harvest/machinery bans during Summer as it becomes too dangerous, because of the risk of machines starting fires. I have seen the end result of a harvesting during a ban, it ain't pretty !! The hay is cut while its green, left to dry for a while , and then baled up when the moisture content is right. Theres the standard small bales (mostly sold & used locally and sold to farm/feed suppliers etc. ), large round bales, and the large rectangle, those are mostly for export. Its not unusual to see numerous B double sem'i chock full of large square bales heading to the hay plants. We give them a wide berth. Some look like they're about to fall over sideways, they are that full. But anyway, back on topic. To dye the leather bindings, I modified an old paint roller tray, no room in my workshop, so I did them outside. I pinned the tray down on the ground with tent pegs , and with the help of my Mother ( thanks Mum), I passed them through a tray half filled with dye, and then hung them up to dry in my workshop. I did the same for the oil. It worked great. 'Necessity is the Mother of invention' Thank you once again, and I hope I get the chance to do another hay binder. All the best, HS

G'Day from Western Australia, I recently had the challenging task of restoring the canvas components for a vintage haybinder. I have never done anything this big before. The only canvas type jobs I have ever done is horse rugs. If I was asked a few years ago, I would have flat out refused. But I was up for the challenge. I was approached by the client a few months ago.( it doesn't take long for people to know that I have industrial sewng machines....in fact, I think I'm the only one) Anyway, she said that she ( and the association she belongs to) got a quote from one person/company in the city, which she thought was too high....and so did I. After some number crunching, I was able to give her a price and I got the job. It pays to look after the locals For those who don't know what a hay binder is, I'll attach some pics. But basically, its a vintage farm implement which is operated and pulled behind a ( vintage) tractor, that cuts the hay , rolls it into a bundle,( along canvas conveyers) ties a piece of twine in the middle and spits it out the back...and 'hay' presto, you have a 'stook' . And just to point out, its actually 12oz loom state...not canvas. The only part/parts of the binders that are leather, are the bindings that are stitched along the edges of the canvas, and the straps (with buckles) to secure both ends together. It took quite a while to do, as I was asked to re-use the original timbers. Some were OK....some were not!! The client had some spare timbers....thankfully. But I still had to remove the old copper rivets, de-nail etc. and prepare them for use. After a bit of blood, sweat....(and a bit of cursing), I got them done, they were fitted this morning and work well after a few teething problems with the old machine .But just needed a few additional eyelets fitted to the canvas.. You can have a look here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/40990121@N05/8107780303/in/photostream/ Theres a few other pics too, have a look. All the best, HS

You probably now have more info than you can poke a stick at. But the simple rule of materials x 2 or x 3 ( depending on the item) is probably the simplest, but safest rule, and a rule that I apply, and still be able to make a profit and put $$ in my bank. But one other rule I stick to is , look after the locals, (or ' mates rates' as we call it in Australia) as in , the price I charge for the local people in my small country town, maybe slightly less than what I would charge at my market stall at various venues outside my town. And being the only leather worker ( and horse rug repairer) for about 2 hours in any direction , I am often in high demand. I have hardly done any advertising,, no web sites etc. with the exception of hand made flyers & business cards, and I'm flat out, and with a 3 month waiting list on orders, and it all just started as a hobby, and now a full time business, and I've never been happier. Good luck in your venture, and I hope its is a complete success. HS

G'Day, I'll be attending a ' medieval fayre' in early November this year, and, I have been asked to have a medieval theme for my stall ( they also asked me to dress up in a medieval costume.....I drew the line at that, not one for fancy dress, I'll could be the only one in a cowboy hat .....at a medieval fayre ) However, I have already got myself some celtic /medieval patterns etc , craft aids, 3D stamps etc. to make medieval stuff. I also have a heap of patterns for medieval bags , purses etc....but, these will have an Aussie twist to them , some will be made from ( hair on) Kangaroo hides. But what I am thinking of doing, is getting a medieval sign to hang on my stall instead of my usual business sign/banner. I'm just trying to find out what or if there was a sign for 'leather worker/ leather craftsman' in those days . It won't be words, it would be a symbol of some kind. If so, what is that symbol?? Is there a link to point me in the right direction? I have been searching with not much luck. Thanks in advance. All the best HS

G'Day again, I agree ( I'm not a lawyer either) , I also see it as free advertising for the companies in a unique and creative way. Who knows, they may even ask me for an order. thanks for your reply. Best regards, HS

G'day, What an interesting, but very serious topic. I have often used ( Australian) beer bottle tops and turned them into fridge magnets, with or without some sort of leather fob or surround. ( I am a consumer of such beverages, hence the good supply of bottle tops) I did get an opportunity to speak to a rep from one of the (Aussie) beer companies, he said quote: " We don't mind you using the logos, just don't alter or change the logo in any way" . Fair enough. We also have to remember, that there are many that use beer cans for ' beer can art ', as in cut up beer cans/soft drink cans and turn them into cars, bikes etc, and often with logos clearly visible, and sell them at markets etc. Have a look at these: http://www.flickr.com/photos/40990121@N05/7899941714/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/40990121@N05/7899942654/in/photostream and the beer cans: http://www.flickr.com/photos/40990121@N05/6748011377/in/photostream Apart from being creative, I also see them as a recycling initiative , as well as art. Any thoughts?? HS

Thank you very much:) They sure do look quite weird, The fact that they are a very serious problem here in Australia,( approx 1.3 billion+...and counting) may also have been the motivation behind the first & second prize. But there are people that love them when they come to my stall , and some that hate them . 'Beauty is in the eye of the beholder' thats what I tell them anyway. It's quite a strong, durable leather and easy to sew, even on a domestic machine with the right needle, and the amount of products that can be made is only limited by your imagination. http://www.flickr.com/photos/40990121@N05/6828796423/ All the best, HS

G'Day G'Day , We had our local country show at the weekend, the weather was awesome, and had some great sales through out the day. I couldn't fault the day at all . It was a long tiring day, but the best of all... I made a Cane Toad Skin Handbag and a stubby holder to go in the exhibition shed. I got the bag finished about an hour before the entries closed...phew!! The bag got first prize , and the stubby holder got second . heres a link to the pics: http://www.flickr.com/photos/40990121@N05/7814084780/in/photostream/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/40990121@N05/7814085270/in/photostream/ P.S. 'Brutus' my Q'Stitch Colt machine should also get a mention...it did all the stitching .( the Pfaff 60 under the red cover did a little bit too) http://www.flickr.com/photos/40990121@N05/4111321665/in/photostream/ All the best, HS

G'Day From Western Australia, It does sound like something is a miss on the linkage on the motor perhaps (?) Sounds like something needs adjusting? This is my 441 clone: http://www.qstitch.com.au/Page/leather-saddlery-sewing-machines ( I didn't pay that price ... mine was cheaper It has a 3/4 HP motor, and I have really put it through its paces. It can really sew that thickness.) http://www.flickr.com/photos/40990121@N05/7010739149/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/40990121@N05/6864625162/in/photostream/ If you can see by the pic, its a direct metal rod type linkage to operate the motor, not a chain, but there is a chain for the foot. I have adjusted that so I don't have to press too far to drop the foot. Although I don't have a servo or speed controller like the Cobra , I've learnt how to speed up and slow down the machine.( after much practice). The harder I press down on the pedal, the faster it goes , and vice versa. I've done so much sewing on it now, I'd be lost without it, and I have my machine adjusted just right and set up for me and me only ...and no-one else. If anyone else used my machine, it may seem totally foreign to them compared to their own machine. Perhaps when you get your new machine, you can adjust it and have it set up to the way you want it. Hope there is at least some help on here for you, and I wish all the best in the future, HS

G'Day from Western Australia I too have a 441 clone . A 'Q Stitch Colt' from Queensland. http://www.flickr.com/photos/40990121@N05/4111321665/in/photostream/ The pic is a bit old now as I now have a slotted plate and the apt feed dog ( not the blanket plate in the pic) , a double toe foot, with a centre groover, and I use that for just about everything. I did buy an edge guide, but I've never used it. I seem to have developed my own technique of keeping things straight.......practice I guess , ( a good light also helped) I did go slightly off sewing a gun belt , my friend then said to me "thats called a 'humanity stitch' " , I like that But I am fascinated by the 'French Boxing ' attachment. It would be good to know if anyone here has tried that? I just bought the accessories that I know that I was likely to use frequently ( apart from the edge guide), and as a result, I've now set up my machine to do a variety of leather sewing jobs, and have the tensions etc just perfect ( that took yonks) , and without having to change plates, feet and feed dogs all the time. All the best, and Happy Sewing HS

G'Day again, Thank you for your responses. I almost used the air compressor, but I changed my mind. I'm glad I did. I think I'll just stick to using a brush for my own peace of mind. A good oiling and a simple brush over sounds the best. All the best HS

G'day from a very wet Western Australia. Apart from making leather goods, I also do horse rug repairs, and as many will know ( and as someone on here put it) 'it's like throwing a handful of sand onto your machine.' When I clean and service my Seiko STW 28B,( Consew 226 equivalent) I use a new or a clean paint brush to remove any debris, dirt, dust etc. from around the feed dogs and various moving parts. Is it a good idea to use an air compressor to blow the dirt and debris away, or does this just blow or force all that dirt into places that it shouldn't go?? Thanks for any help Handstitched:)

Sorry for the delayed response. I have an account with Birdsall Leather. They have been very helpful right from the very first day I started leatherwork over 8 years ago. They help anyone from a beginner, to the advanced ( I once was a beginner, but I'm now somewhere in between) . I also have an account with the Cane Toad skin wholesaler . best regards HS