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Handstitched

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Everything posted by Handstitched

  1. G'Day again, I don't know why , but the pic didn't attach. I'll try again HS
  2. G'Day, I have just got off the phone a few moments ago, and after much deliberation, I have decided to purchase a Singer 29K55 patcher machine after seeing it advertised in the classifieds, in fact, its been in there for approx 3 weeks.It was in the 'sewing machine ' section, but was moved to the 'antiques and collectables ' section, as the age was advertised as '1912' .(?) I received a photo of it via email a short time ago. I just need some feed back on what you think.(?) The seller is a former leather worker himself and still has some of his tools (and after seeing my leather work , may inspire him to get back into it....we need more leather workers:thumbsup: ) And , despite its rusty appearance, I have been given assurance that it is all in working order...including the most important bit (for me), the 360 degree rotating foot. I haven't used these machines before , and I don't know very much about them. It hasn't got a stand , but I'll look for one later. The only downside is that it over 3 1/2 hrs drive away further south of me in regional Western Australia. (I'm quite used to driving long distances in one arvo ) After reading quite a few posts on here regarding the restoration of these old machines, I think the best course of action would be, go over the arm with some steel wool ( and remove any other surface rust) and to just to give it a good oil up, and not bother painting it, as I don't want to lose the remaining decals.(?) I think someone on here mentioned that they look good with their 'patina'. Any other advice would be appreciated. The amount I'm paying is, $250 Australian. Thanks in advance. HS
  3. G'Day , my response is 'better late than never', but nonetheless , I had a post pertaining to a similar problem 'To Back stitch or not to back stitch' ( or somethng like that). I got some good helpful responses from that. Since then I always back stitch 3-4 stitches. However , I have never tried burning the ends. I might experiment with that. all the best , HS
  4. G'Day again, Thanks for the responses and the great ideas. I have taken some pics of the belts I've made using the off cuts, as well as the brass 'dees' that I used. My leather working skills may not be up to the standard of a more experienced leather worker, but you'll get the idea. I do sometimes make key rings, fridge magnets etc from the off cuts, but making these 3 piece belts, I can get a much higher return from them, and being 3 piece, the style, pattern and colour combinations are endless. Enjoy:thumbsup:
  5. G'Day from a very hot Western Australia, and a belated Happy New Year to all. Its been quite a while since I have been on here, but quite some time ago I was wondering what to do with the belt blank off cuts besides turning them into book marks , wrist bands etc. I did experiment joining two off cuts together by skiving the ends and glueing them together to make one long piece,( I also tried rivets) I wasn't happy with the way those experiments looked...needless to say....that failed !! But then I came across some 'belting dee's', made of solid brass ( no doubt you may already have heard of them?, just keep in mind I am still learning), however, I can't find any in nickle plate or stainless steel....yet. They came in 3 sizes 25mm, 38mm & 32 mm and approx 2.5mm thick, and slip nicely through a standard size belt loop on a pair of jeans, as they are just the right size and shape and thickness, and being brass, look quite nice too. I have just made 3 different styles of belts to experiment with, and so far so good, they do look quite good. They are a 3 piece belt, the billet end , centre piece, and the buckle end. When I am finished, I'll take some pics and post them on here. Anyway, all the very best to all, and I'll post those pics hopefully in the near future. HS
  6. G'day again, Wasn't long since I last posted. My brain went a million miles an hour just now, but I think I've got it. Instead of just joining the two cut ends together, try this: Skive one the end of one blank off cut to half its thinkness on the flesh side, for example, approx 2" to 3" in. Then, do the same on the other off cut , but on the grain side so that the two pieces overlap. The shaped patch can still be applied, and perhaps the lining as well, but at least if you're using the machine, the needle will have something to 'grab', rather than dissappear between a join. There's no doubt a name for that type of join in woodwork...but I don't know what its called. Some will say "I already knew that!!" ha ha !! O'h well , can't wait to try that out now all the best HS
  7. Thanks for your response. I'm guessing that I would need to put a lining on the inside of the belt which would have to go the full length of the belt , or put the same size shaped patch ( of a lighter grade leather) on the inside. I do agree with making the shaped patch the feature of the belt though , I think thats a great idea. I think I might experiment with scraps first , and then decide what work best. No doubt the strength will be there, but whether a customer would buy a belt with a join in it may be another matter. I can only try. If I get a chance to do so, I'll take some pics either of the finished belt, or of the 'experiments'. Thanks again
  8. G'day from upsidedown land. I wasn't sure what title to use , but anyway. I do feel a bit of a goose asking this, but when we all make belts , obviously theres the off cuts. Depending on the length of the belt , I'll have off cuts in various lengths left over ,some of which I turn into book marks , key rings or dog collars, straps etc. or perhaps ranger belts suitable for a childs waist or a small adult waist. But if I wanted to use those off cuts to make a full length adult size belt , for example , we'll say a 42" , what would be the neatest and/or tidiest way of joing two pieces together?? Rivet , stitch, or both?? Do you try to hide the join, or intentionally make the join obvious ?? I appreciate that 'O' rings 'D' rings etc. can also be used as part of the belt design. Any ideas ?? Thanks in advance All the best, HS
  9. After reading some of the posts, I think I'm under charging, however I can't put the price up too much as I simply wouldn't sell a thing. http://www.flickr.com/photos/40990121@N05/4626429309/ I sold this rose carved belt for $60.00 Aust. ( some people baulk at that price...or try to knock me down) Just bear in mind , that I am still a learner , but this belt to fit 38" (97cm) waist was made using 3.8-4.0mm veg tan ( everything is in millimetres down here...not ounces) , with nic hardware. If that was to be handstitched, it would be sold for approx $80.00 Perhaps I should start charging more,( our tax time is coming up (June 30) , so I might be 'reviewing' ALL my prices, but I may run the risk of not selling any belts at all. All the best, HS
  10. Cane Toads are serious problem in Australia, needless to say we have an endless supply of toad skins. There are numerous uses for the skins.This is one of mine. I just need to brush up on my photographic skills as the pic is a bit out of focus....sorry HS
  11. Thanks for your reply. I had a feeling that I was simply running out of room for another full braid, and didn't 'complete'. Perhaps if I tighten up the other braids in the belt , I might be able to fit one more braid in. Thanks once again
  12. I appreciate that this topic would no doubt have been visited numerous times before. I've been doing simple 3 braid secret plaits, practiced on lots of scraps first , made quite a few wrist bands etc. they look great , then started to make belts, all goes really well ( without looking at the book by Bruce Grant) until the last six to eight inches of the belt. O'K., from here on , I'll refer to the wonderful book on braiding by Bruce Grant, following the exact instructions on 3 braid secret plait.But for some reason in the last six inches or so , just before I get to the very end of the 3 braids, its like the twists have doubled (?)..and just looks a complete twisted mess and simply won't flatten out like it has done throughout the rest of the belt. My apologies if I am not making any sense at all.Perhaps some pics may help later. But has anyone else got 'stuck ' towards the end? I also appreciate that it may be difficult to describe a remedy on the forum. Thanks
  13. G'Day Again, Thanks for that.Hopefully now that I have the adjustment just right, I won't need to touch it again for the sewing that I do, but just needed to know ....just in case . Thanks HS
  14. G'Day from upsidedown land. Its been a while since I was here last. I've got all of the adjustments just about perfect on my Colt, ( similar to Torro), and its running very sweetly indeed. Although I have the presser foot adjustment just right , as before I was leaving foot marks in the leather, I've often wondered how far does it go before it goes *pop*. Does it come out with such force that I end up with a hole in my shed roof, or is it not that dramatic? And is it easy to put back, in the event that it comes right out?? All the best Thanks heaps HS
  15. I have recently been given the job of making some new leather straps/thongs for 2 sets of 'horse brasses'.The old ones were made of some kind of compounded cardboard made to look like 'feux leather' I enjoy making these as they look quite spectacular when they are finished. However, when it comes to cleaning the brasses before assembly, I do find that some of them have been covered in a laquer, ( GRRR) making it quite difficult to polish up.Some of the laquered brasses looked quite discoloured and untidy as a result. At first , to remove the laquer, I did try just using a bit of 'elbow grease' with some chrome polish first, ( as used on cars) as it is a mild abrasive, this stuff is a paste out of a tube , not an acidic liquid. 'Brasso' on its own wouldn't touch it.Using a machine buffer was not an option as that may be too harsh on intricate designs ,wording etc. But then , I'm thinking , the laquer is presumably polyeurethane based, so therefore ,actetone should disolve it. (I was in the fibreglass industry for 10 yrs.....that WAS helpful). And I was right, I placed the offending brasses in just a little bit of acetone in a china dish for a few minutes each. After taking them out, I used a little bit of chrome cleaner, just enough to remove the laquer, which has now softened up,.(I also used an old toothbrush for the fiddly bits) and I finished them with 'brasso'. They came up a treat. I hope this helps someone with a similar problem. I am open to other ideas All the best, HS
  16. One of the machines that I have is a Pfaff 60 sewing machine for sewing upholstery leather, garment leather.Its not a leather machine, but a very strong domestic machine.(all metal) My Mother used to make all of our clothes on it when we were kids. ( now I have it ) I can sew up to 3 layers of upholstery leather, without the machine suffering, or labouring too much, and without affecting the stitch. I do use upholstery thread, much stronger than domestic thread, and a leather needle. And I give all the TLC that it needs. Happy sewing. HS
  17. I now have 'hard' parts of my fingers where I've been hand stitching. I do on occasions have bandaids on my fingers......but thats mainly from using solvents and spirit dyes drying my hands out.(yeh yeh yeh...I should use moisturiser on my hands) Once upon a time when I first started handstitching, I used to hit the roof if I pricked myself with an awl or a needle. Now, when I prick myself , it's now a case of " yeh , whatever"....and carry on. I think over time our hands just toughen up with use....and perhaps ...abuse. all the best HS
  18. G'Day from Western Australia, I've had numerous customers saying that I should put my wares on ebay, I 've seriously considered it a few times , but after reading some of the things that has happened here, well ...?... I'm not so sure now. I know I shouldn't be put off altogether by some bad experiences , however , in UK Rays case, Ray's done absolutely nothing wrong. I do hope everything works out really well for you mate .Good Luck!!!. Perhaps ebay is slowly losing its 'shine'? ...and maybe the guy in Nottingham might just get his comeuppence? All the best HS
  19. No doubt you'll all get a great deal of love and satisfaction from these old mags, but the thought of selling them ???...........mmmmmmnup, I just couldn't....share the joy of working with leather perhaps, but never sell them.The fact that someone has created something very special from the very mags that I now have....and they have now been passed down to me .....theres something special in that The one with Ann & Al Stohlman on the cover I keep in a plastic sleeve. Enjoy All the best, HS
  20. Thank you for your replies. Theres some wonderful history in these old mags, and not just the leathercraft, or the patterns, and lovely pics, but also the people in the mags that have the passion to create , something with their own hands. Before I received these mags, I got a bit of a 'leathercrafters block' ( perhaps a bit like writers block?). with all the books, patterns and leather in my workshop, I just could'nt for the life of me decide what make next. ....it happens I'm sure( Perhaps its just me) Now ...after I received this beautiful gift??? I can't wait to make 'this ,this or this'
  21. G'Day, I'm not quite sure where to put this. But here goes. I help run and organise a small craft fair with a good friend of mine. I help out with the web ads, flyers and general running, etc. However , recently, due to personal commitments, she hasn't been able to be there every month, so I'm more than happy to help out and run the whole show , so to speak. A customer I was talking to, said that there was a large collection of old leathercraft 'books' for sale at a particular art /craft gallery .....naturally my interest suddenly peaked. Later that day, I was just about to look on the map and get some details to see where this art/craft gallery was, ....and .........to my complete shock... my good friend of mine walks in and presented me with 10 years worth of 'The Leather Craftsman' magazines, from 1960 to 1970 all nicely bound together ....the very ones that were at the gallery!!! I was ablsolutely blown away, .....emotional ?? .... yes, yes I was ( sob ,sniff) They were given to me as a token of her appreciation for helping her out with the craft fair. These mags may be readily available where you are (?) , but for us they are like hens teeth, and much sought after, and would take me a lifetime to find, especially mags this old. They are now my most prized and much loved collection, along with another prized LCM mag, a Jan/Feb 1986 issue with Ann & Al Stohlman, at their ranch in British Columbia, Canada on the front cover, that I found previously at a S/H shop. Just thought I'd share that with you All the best, HS
  22. I'm just about to stitch some simple plain tool/ accssesory cases . I'll start by doing a few 'back stitches' first and then go forward. At the end, I'll go back a few stitches to finish off, I'll snip the thread from the machine, I'll leave approx 6" of thread hanging off the job, and, with both hands , I'll give the 2 threads a firm tug ( for my own peace of mind), and then snip off the excess. I've been doing the same on belts ,knife sheaths etc.
  23. I do like to always keep my machine covered up when not in use. Where I live Western Australia, we get strong easterly winds during hot dry summers and dust can often be a real bugger . It doesn't take long for dust to get into my workshop, so I'm forever keeping it clean . No doubt everyone has their own routines with their machines when the all the work is done, mine is very simple , 'clean and cover' every time, including covering the spools of thread
  24. Thank you everyone for your replies. I think back stitching is the way to go. One other thing that I do after I've snipped the thread from the machine, is that I leave approx 6" of excess thread on the job hanging off, I'll give both threads (with both hands) a firm 'tug' and then snip off the excess, That may be an overkill, but it's mainly for my own peace of mind. Once again, thanks, happy sewing. HS
  25. I've had my beaut Q Stitch Colt machine ( very similar to artisan toro) for quite a while now , however I am still very much a learner on it. I'm never too sure on every job I do to either A) after holding the 2 threads at the beginning , do a few 'back stitches' first to lock the stitch in and then go forward. Or B ) hold the 2 threads firmly and just go forward, if so, how do the threads 'lock in' at the start ?? and the same at the end , 'to back stitch or not to back stitch' ?? I do currently 'backstitch' , but is it necessary?? Thanks in advance for your help.
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