Handstitched

G'Day , I've been asked to do a saddle for a rocking horse, however, out of all the unusual jobs I've been asked to do, I haven't done a rocking horse saddle. The client doesn't want anything too fancy, but still looking nice, a basic shape, but also slightly padded, and somewhere to attach some stirrup straps. ( just like the real ones) Any links/pics to a cutting pattern, tracing pattern etc. , but especially assembly ?? This job has taken a back seat for quite a while, and its about time I got it finished. I'd like to clear my jobs board before the end of the year, and this is one of them. Thanks HS

Thank you very much. I enjoyed making them, and I am happy with the end result..... for my first binder. Theres some very interesting reading there too, I enjoyed reading it.. Theres not a great deal of difference in how crops are harvested here in Oz, and the US. Harvesting started approx 3-4 weeks ago. Some start sooner, and some later. Most of the crops out my way are oats, wheat, canola ( some call that rape seed) and lupins. Canola gets harvested much later when its dry. But most of the harvesting is completed before Summer kicks in.Theres often harvest/machinery bans during Summer as it becomes too dangerous, because of the risk of machines starting fires. I have seen the end result of a harvesting during a ban, it ain't pretty !! The hay is cut while its green, left to dry for a while , and then baled up when the moisture content is right. Theres the standard small bales (mostly sold & used locally and sold to farm/feed suppliers etc. ), large round bales, and the large rectangle, those are mostly for export. Its not unusual to see numerous B double sem'i chock full of large square bales heading to the hay plants. We give them a wide berth. Some look like they're about to fall over sideways, they are that full. But anyway, back on topic. To dye the leather bindings, I modified an old paint roller tray, no room in my workshop, so I did them outside. I pinned the tray down on the ground with tent pegs , and with the help of my Mother ( thanks Mum), I passed them through a tray half filled with dye, and then hung them up to dry in my workshop. I did the same for the oil. It worked great. 'Necessity is the Mother of invention' Thank you once again, and I hope I get the chance to do another hay binder. All the best, HS

G'Day from Western Australia, I recently had the challenging task of restoring the canvas components for a vintage haybinder. I have never done anything this big before. The only canvas type jobs I have ever done is horse rugs. If I was asked a few years ago, I would have flat out refused. But I was up for the challenge. I was approached by the client a few months ago.( it doesn't take long for people to know that I have industrial sewng machines....in fact, I think I'm the only one) Anyway, she said that she ( and the association she belongs to) got a quote from one person/company in the city, which she thought was too high....and so did I. After some number crunching, I was able to give her a price and I got the job. It pays to look after the locals For those who don't know what a hay binder is, I'll attach some pics. But basically, its a vintage farm implement which is operated and pulled behind a ( vintage) tractor, that cuts the hay , rolls it into a bundle,( along canvas conveyers) ties a piece of twine in the middle and spits it out the back...and 'hay' presto, you have a 'stook' . And just to point out, its actually 12oz loom state...not canvas. The only part/parts of the binders that are leather, are the bindings that are stitched along the edges of the canvas, and the straps (with buckles) to secure both ends together. It took quite a while to do, as I was asked to re-use the original timbers. Some were OK....some were not!! The client had some spare timbers....thankfully. But I still had to remove the old copper rivets, de-nail etc. and prepare them for use. After a bit of blood, sweat....(and a bit of cursing), I got them done, they were fitted this morning and work well after a few teething problems with the old machine .But just needed a few additional eyelets fitted to the canvas.. You can have a look here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/40990121@N05/8107780303/in/photostream/ Theres a few other pics too, have a look. All the best, HS

You probably now have more info than you can poke a stick at. But the simple rule of materials x 2 or x 3 ( depending on the item) is probably the simplest, but safest rule, and a rule that I apply, and still be able to make a profit and put $$ in my bank. But one other rule I stick to is , look after the locals, (or ' mates rates' as we call it in Australia) as in , the price I charge for the local people in my small country town, maybe slightly less than what I would charge at my market stall at various venues outside my town. And being the only leather worker ( and horse rug repairer) for about 2 hours in any direction , I am often in high demand. I have hardly done any advertising,, no web sites etc. with the exception of hand made flyers & business cards, and I'm flat out, and with a 3 month waiting list on orders, and it all just started as a hobby, and now a full time business, and I've never been happier. Good luck in your venture, and I hope its is a complete success. HS

G'Day, I'll be attending a ' medieval fayre' in early November this year, and, I have been asked to have a medieval theme for my stall ( they also asked me to dress up in a medieval costume.....I drew the line at that, not one for fancy dress, I'll could be the only one in a cowboy hat .....at a medieval fayre ) However, I have already got myself some celtic /medieval patterns etc , craft aids, 3D stamps etc. to make medieval stuff. I also have a heap of patterns for medieval bags , purses etc....but, these will have an Aussie twist to them , some will be made from ( hair on) Kangaroo hides. But what I am thinking of doing, is getting a medieval sign to hang on my stall instead of my usual business sign/banner. I'm just trying to find out what or if there was a sign for 'leather worker/ leather craftsman' in those days . It won't be words, it would be a symbol of some kind. If so, what is that symbol?? Is there a link to point me in the right direction? I have been searching with not much luck. Thanks in advance. All the best HS

G'Day again, I agree ( I'm not a lawyer either) , I also see it as free advertising for the companies in a unique and creative way. Who knows, they may even ask me for an order. thanks for your reply. Best regards, HS

G'day, What an interesting, but very serious topic. I have often used ( Australian) beer bottle tops and turned them into fridge magnets, with or without some sort of leather fob or surround. ( I am a consumer of such beverages, hence the good supply of bottle tops) I did get an opportunity to speak to a rep from one of the (Aussie) beer companies, he said quote: " We don't mind you using the logos, just don't alter or change the logo in any way" . Fair enough. We also have to remember, that there are many that use beer cans for ' beer can art ', as in cut up beer cans/soft drink cans and turn them into cars, bikes etc, and often with logos clearly visible, and sell them at markets etc. Have a look at these: http://www.flickr.com/photos/40990121@N05/7899941714/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/40990121@N05/7899942654/in/photostream and the beer cans: http://www.flickr.com/photos/40990121@N05/6748011377/in/photostream Apart from being creative, I also see them as a recycling initiative , as well as art. Any thoughts?? HS

Thank you very much:) They sure do look quite weird, The fact that they are a very serious problem here in Australia,( approx 1.3 billion+...and counting) may also have been the motivation behind the first & second prize. But there are people that love them when they come to my stall , and some that hate them . 'Beauty is in the eye of the beholder' thats what I tell them anyway. It's quite a strong, durable leather and easy to sew, even on a domestic machine with the right needle, and the amount of products that can be made is only limited by your imagination. http://www.flickr.com/photos/40990121@N05/6828796423/ All the best, HS

G'Day G'Day , We had our local country show at the weekend, the weather was awesome, and had some great sales through out the day. I couldn't fault the day at all . It was a long tiring day, but the best of all... I made a Cane Toad Skin Handbag and a stubby holder to go in the exhibition shed. I got the bag finished about an hour before the entries closed...phew!! The bag got first prize , and the stubby holder got second . heres a link to the pics: http://www.flickr.com/photos/40990121@N05/7814084780/in/photostream/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/40990121@N05/7814085270/in/photostream/ P.S. 'Brutus' my Q'Stitch Colt machine should also get a mention...it did all the stitching .( the Pfaff 60 under the red cover did a little bit too) http://www.flickr.com/photos/40990121@N05/4111321665/in/photostream/ All the best, HS

G'Day From Western Australia, It does sound like something is a miss on the linkage on the motor perhaps (?) Sounds like something needs adjusting? This is my 441 clone: http://www.qstitch.com.au/Page/leather-saddlery-sewing-machines ( I didn't pay that price ... mine was cheaper It has a 3/4 HP motor, and I have really put it through its paces. It can really sew that thickness.) http://www.flickr.com/photos/40990121@N05/7010739149/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/40990121@N05/6864625162/in/photostream/ If you can see by the pic, its a direct metal rod type linkage to operate the motor, not a chain, but there is a chain for the foot. I have adjusted that so I don't have to press too far to drop the foot. Although I don't have a servo or speed controller like the Cobra , I've learnt how to speed up and slow down the machine.( after much practice). The harder I press down on the pedal, the faster it goes , and vice versa. I've done so much sewing on it now, I'd be lost without it, and I have my machine adjusted just right and set up for me and me only ...and no-one else. If anyone else used my machine, it may seem totally foreign to them compared to their own machine. Perhaps when you get your new machine, you can adjust it and have it set up to the way you want it. Hope there is at least some help on here for you, and I wish all the best in the future, HS

G'Day from Western Australia I too have a 441 clone . A 'Q Stitch Colt' from Queensland. http://www.flickr.com/photos/40990121@N05/4111321665/in/photostream/ The pic is a bit old now as I now have a slotted plate and the apt feed dog ( not the blanket plate in the pic) , a double toe foot, with a centre groover, and I use that for just about everything. I did buy an edge guide, but I've never used it. I seem to have developed my own technique of keeping things straight.......practice I guess , ( a good light also helped) I did go slightly off sewing a gun belt , my friend then said to me "thats called a 'humanity stitch' " , I like that But I am fascinated by the 'French Boxing ' attachment. It would be good to know if anyone here has tried that? I just bought the accessories that I know that I was likely to use frequently ( apart from the edge guide), and as a result, I've now set up my machine to do a variety of leather sewing jobs, and have the tensions etc just perfect ( that took yonks) , and without having to change plates, feet and feed dogs all the time. All the best, and Happy Sewing HS

G'Day again, Thank you for your responses. I almost used the air compressor, but I changed my mind. I'm glad I did. I think I'll just stick to using a brush for my own peace of mind. A good oiling and a simple brush over sounds the best. All the best HS

G'day from a very wet Western Australia. Apart from making leather goods, I also do horse rug repairs, and as many will know ( and as someone on here put it) 'it's like throwing a handful of sand onto your machine.' When I clean and service my Seiko STW 28B,( Consew 226 equivalent) I use a new or a clean paint brush to remove any debris, dirt, dust etc. from around the feed dogs and various moving parts. Is it a good idea to use an air compressor to blow the dirt and debris away, or does this just blow or force all that dirt into places that it shouldn't go?? Thanks for any help Handstitched:)

Sorry for the delayed response. I have an account with Birdsall Leather. They have been very helpful right from the very first day I started leatherwork over 8 years ago. They help anyone from a beginner, to the advanced ( I once was a beginner, but I'm now somewhere in between) . I also have an account with the Cane Toad skin wholesaler . best regards HS

Thank you for your response. And your right, they do get quite messy. On my machine, I do make regular checks , do regular cleaning, and indeed, regular oiling, its become a (good) habit now. And, as my own rule of thumb, after I do an inspection of the rug for damage, what repairs need doing etc. I go over the whole rug with a stiff brush to clean away any 'debris' etc. . Unfortunately, I don't have the luxury of washing facilities so I end up smelling like a horses butt by the time I've finished, and when I've done quite a few rug repairs, my dog is real friendly with me too !! But I enjoy it Best Regards HS

G'Day from Western Australia, I had a similar problem with my Seiko STW28B ( once was a twin needle , now single needle, see pics) I use mine for horse rug repairs, and I found that the thread was 'codging up' underneath, (bobbin side) . It was getting frustrating as it was happeneing on every job. After spending a bit of time paying closer attention to it (and giving it a good service) , I took apart the shuttle,removed the bobbin, and I tightened the tension screw ( its very tiny, you can just see it on the pic ) , and hey presto, no more 'codging up'. The diagram that Bob has attached is pretty darn close to how my machine is threaded. And despite the foreign language, those diagrams are very helpful. That may not be the exact problem, but I hope this helps:wave: Best Regards HS:wave:

G'Day again...( it's still a scorcher ...again) Thank you so much for your responses and the PDF. I do have an old broken camera lens that I use like a magnifying glass and to see stuff really REALLY close up, close enough to see the numbers clearly on the shaft. Now after having an even closer look through that old lens , the difference I can see is this: The Schmetz 794 S is more 'chisel shaped' at the end, and the GB 794 H appears to be a lot sharper and pointier at the end, and the 'scarf'' appears to be beveled slighty on one side. I'm guessing that this has something to do with the picking up of the thread as the shuttle comes around. It seems to work OK though, and as far as sewing leather goes, I can't really tell the difference. I've learnt so much more about needles in these past few days . All the best, and thanks once again. HS

G'day from a scorching Western Australia, I have just purchased a packet of needles for my Q Stitch Colt ( Juki 144 clone). The needles I normally use are 794S 180/24,the brand is Groz-Beckert.The thread I use is 277. But I didn't notice until after I got home that the number is 794 H. 180/24 I looked closely under a magnifying glass, but I couldn't see any difference whatsoever. I was hoping to see a difference in the points ( ie chisel point & round point. ) but they looked the same....unless I need to look even closer still? Is there a difference between the two numbers?? All the best, HS:)

G'Day, I think it would pay to keep the screw threads clean so as not to get a build up of 'old' loctite. It would be good to get some feedback on that question ? HS

G'Day, I got the loctite 222 on Monday, and at $21.00 a bottle, its a lot just for one screw, but it may save me a fortune over time. HS

G'Day, Have a look at the 'Cane Toad' thread on here, and a few pics as well. I would think they would be quite durable. I have had some of my customers that have shown me Cane Toad leather products like wallets, purses etc. that they bought 20 years ago. ( not from me). Although showing obvious signs of wear and tear, they looked quite good. But I'm not sure how long they would last on heavy items like holsters etc. HS:)

G'Day, Amongst my many leather talents, I can also make various leather goods from Cane Toad leather. I'll attach some pics from my photo page. I do get a lot of pre-made Cane Toad leather goods like bags, wallets etc. from a taxidermist, but I can also obtain the skins as well to make a lot of my own Cane toad leather goods. The skins can come in a variety of colours. They are very easy to work with, and , depending on the project, some parts of the skins can be sewn using a domestic machine (with a leather needle), however, because the Cane Toad secretes a toxin from glands near the head, that part is often quite thick & tough ( after tanning) and care needs to be taken not to break a needle when sewing that part. It does take a little time to trim and arrange the skins,( if making large items) and to sort them as each skin has a *different texture ( *after tanning ,also, males & females have different textures), so a project may take longer than usual to make, but the end result is worth it. When I make anything from cane toad skins ,I just trim the daggy bits off, I then glue each piece into place and then sew, a bit like putting a jigsaw puzzle together. Most of the items in the pics are pre-made, but some of my own items are, stubby holders, barrettes, BIC lighter cases, books covers, tobacco pouches and asstd. small items. http://www.flickr.com/photos/40990121@N05/6828793379/in/photostream/ Have a browse at the other Cane Toad pics on my photo page. Enjoy:yes: best regards HS