Handstitched

G'Day, now its my turn. I too have had problems. Mainly with the post being too short. I have found, from my own experience , its depending on which supplier I get mine from . ( I'm in Western Australia) Some are the 'Tandy ' sort, and some are from Birdsall Leather NSW, and some are even some 'non-descript' brand off ebay. I prefer the long durables, 8mm ( line 24's ) from Birdsall Leather. They are also cheaper, but sometimes not always in stock. Before setting, I have a tool that is used for another type of snap. It has a hole in the centre that accomodates the length & diameter of the posts . I place that over the top of the post first on both the eyelet & cap, and give it a few firm taps. That pushes the leather around it downwards exposing a bit more of the post . I guess the same could be achieved using a small socket from a socket set. It makes it so much easier when it comes to setting the stud . Depending on the brand , the hole is either set high or low( if that makes any sense ? ) . This is where the Birdsall brand are good, the hole in the stud is low. My old setters are so 'rounded' & worn now, but they set just perfectly . All the best HS

G'Day, Have a look at the pic. Spot the difference? theres not a lot in it eh ? That and a Consew 226? It took me a while to figure out why my thread was breaking when I first got my machine some years ago. ( My STW 28-B is now a single needle set up , not a twin needle ) . And even to this day, the same problem occurs occasionally . I use mine for horse rug repairs, medium leathers etc. First, my tension was all wrong. I messed around with the tensioners, so basically now , backed right off and totally loose now, that helped . Thats how it is now, don't ask me why, but it works fine. The second problem is....I think...... is the take up lever. My machine is just over 50 years old , and the holes for the thread in the take up lever are now a bit worn almost to a sharp edge. So every now and then, if/when the thread is at the right 'angle' (?) it 'catches' and cuts the thread . Yeh, I know time to replace it, but apart from that, it runs sweet. I also had a look at the tension spring on the shuttle, as the thread was ' codging' up underneath. You can barely see the tension screw in the pic. So I adjusted that too, it was too loose , all sweet now. There maybe other issues with your machine, but I hope that my experiences may help. All the best HS

G'day, and thank you for your replies. The lacquer that was available from NSW Australia, was called 'clear lac'...or something like that from Birdsall Leather NSW. . I guess it was the Aussies answer to Neatlac. Neatlac was the only thing that seemed to work, but I don't have much left. I did try ordering some ( clearlac) several months ago, only to be told that it can't come by air as its highly flammable. Road freight was out of the question, it would have cost more than the product. But now, I can't find it on their web site. So originally I 'thought outside the leather square', and took a punt. I tried some varnish I found in the shed, on a scrap piece, even though it was 'cedar' in colour ( also water based) . That worked. After it dried, I bent it ,twisted it, and it looked good. Thats when I decided to go to my local hardware shop and get some clear varnish. The product I now use is called ' Pascol Clear Varnish' . Its made in Australia. Water based. In either gloss or satin. I have the gloss. Looks nicer imo. https://www.masters.com.au/product/100842441/pascol-interior-varnish-clear-gloss-1l.jsp;jsessionid=j5R2l1zCBn-5NEDFGEHWMA__.ncdlmorasp1202?bmUID=lpqsJJr#product-overview Its white in colour in the tin, but dries clear. Very little odor. No nasty chemical vapours. I tried one coat first, but only a tiny bit of dye was visible on some paper towel after the first coat dried, so to be sure, I applied two coats. It dried fairly quickly , but as its been cold down here, I used my trusty hair dryer to speed things up a bit. I guess if it was oil based, it will take longer to dry, and may have issues later. You may not even have to try this as 'Neatlac's variants are readily available in the US and theres so many suppliers in the US . I really do envy you guys. Theres a LOT that we can't get down here. As a result of my little experiment , I can now go ahead and make a heap of heavy belts with a retail value of approx $4500 - $5000 . I do appreciate that to many leather workers, this is not the done thing, but........it works. Thanks once again Best regards, HS

G'Day , Thank you for that, and handy to know. But the same problem still exists, it can't be shipped internationally by air. I just had a look at one of my leather suppliers in the east ( australia) . they no longer supply the lacquer that was available before. Just a heads up, there are very few leather suppliers in Western Australia. Nearly all my supplies come from the eastern states where there are several suppliers and it takes 2 weeks for them to get to my place. There is one( very small one) in Perth ( Western Australia) ...and thats it. Even he has limited supplies. I have a wholesaler for my sides of leather in Perth. The clear varnish seems to be working quite well . Its white in colour , water based, and dries clear, and is flexible . I use 2 coats .Dries pretty well on its own, but I use a hair dryer to speed things up ( its winter here right now) I can now finally make a heap of belts with these hides...yey ! All the best, HS

G'Day, Just had a quick look at a few vids by Lisa Sorrell, and I'm hooked. She makes some very good points about bespoke . Those boots are just stunning. HS

G'Day, I was recently given a pair of old work boots to repair (?) , made by a popular Australian brand . They were found dumped on the side of the road , and for good reason.However, the new owner asked me if I could repair them.Now, just a heads up, the owner isn't short of a few bob either . In a pigs ear. I took one look at them and He doesn't want me to spend more than $50 on them....fair dinkum . You can buy a new pair for less I'm sure. The soles are melted, and gravel has stuck to the remaining melted rubber. One idea I had in mind was remove and grind off the gravel etc until there is some sort of 'smooth' surface to attach a new sole with adhesive, either a new sole, or just a piece of rubber cut in the shape of the sole. I'm not a boot maker or repairer,but I get all the 'odd jobs' when you're the only leather worker this side of woop woop , but I'm open to suggestions , apart from the rubbish bin. Thanks HS

G'day, I've had 5-6mm some drum dyed buffalo hides for a few years now, but I couldn't use them for belts as the dye was coming off on the back. The hides were not sealed. Which may explain why I got them cheap. I have tried various leather sealers all to no avail, the dye keeps coming through.I did try the tiny bit of neatlac that I have left, and that worked. But Neatlac is obviously no longer made, and although there are alternatives available in the eastern states Australia, they can't be shipped by air, and I'm in the west. Road freight will be too ex$y . There in lies my problem. Needless to say, the hides stayed on the rack ever since. So, I did an experiment today on some scraps of this leather . I tried ordinary domestic ( water based) varnish/lacquer , as used for woodwork . I put on two coats, one was not enough. And whacko...it worked !! the same as neatlac did . Theres a 'before & after pic' . Its takes longer to dry, but a hair dryer helps. I let it dry completely . I flexed it, bent it around etc and all looks good. So I'm guessing that the varnish ingredients can't that much different to Neatlac and its variants . Hope this tip helps someone else. HS

G'day JBerhard, No doubt by now you have all the info you need, and found out the age. I have a Seiko STW28-B . I too wondered what the age of my machine was, just out of general interest. So, I contacted Seiko in Japan. I gave them every detail I could find with attached pics. In the pic attached, just below the model number plate , is the serial number plate . The first two digits, " 66" turned out to be the year. It was made in November 1966 . I was born Feb 1966. Its 50 years old, and like me, they make them to last, ha ha !! All the best, HS

G'day , I have a Pfaff 60 . Its actually my Mothers, she used to make our clothes on it when we were kids. Its a domestic machine, but just a really good strong and heavy one and can be adapted for industrial use. We brought it with us when we moved to Western Australia from the UK in 72 . The wooden case got a bit damaged on the way over. Its also has a red & cream coloured wooden cover with carry handle. But now I have adopted it into my workshop and, with a leather needle, and an industrial thread , I use it for sewing thin leathers , upholstery leathers etc. Its is forever reliable, has never broken down. I've gone through a few drive belts, but thats about it. The functions are basic , as well as the servicing. Its one of four machines that I use. I have attached a pic. My workshop isn't always that tidy hope this helps. HS

G'day, Everything I know about leather is all self taught. Unfortunately, there are no places around here ( Central Wheatbelt , Western Australia) for me to go to if I get stuck or want to learn something different to what I already do. There are places in the eastern states, but some classes are expensive, + travel costs. There is no-one to teach me how make or repair saddles. So, like everything else , I will just have to figure it out by myself. But some 'hands on instruction' would be a great help though. I can do some repairs on saddles....now , but I still have so much to learn . The internet has been a great learning tool with various 'How to...' videos and tutorials etc. This very web site has also been great. Its helped me on many occasions. Now, I am more than happy to pass on what I've taught myself over the years to others ., even if my technique is 'not the norm' or totally different to someone elses technique. Its the end result that matters. Best Wishes for the future. HS

G'day, Not even two weeks into my leather crafting journey over 11 years ago. I had my fingers juuuuust a tad over the edge of the ruler, *cut the leather* and I take the skin of the very tips on 2 of my fingers right off. No blood thankfully . The cut in the leather was nice and straight.........and so were the tips of my fingers That WAS close !! I learnt REAL quick after that. If anything, I just can't seem to stop piercing my fingers while hand stitching Perhaps I should go into body piercing too eh? " Hold still , this won't hurt a bit .....honest !? " HS

G'day, The thin leathers I can roll up into smaller rolls, but obviously the thicker leathers are carefully rolled up 'loosely' to avoid any creasing and tied up with some thonging and stored under my workbench away from sunlight. HS

G'day, When I need to glue leather together, I use contact adhesive,. I use Q tips, or ear buds, cottons tips, whatever you call them over there, mainly on smaller items. Its more precise . That way it reduces the risk of getting glue in all the wrong places. And the tips are cheap & disposable. And where necessary , I use paper clamps, (appropiate sizes), , but in areas that are going to be hidden or stitched etc. as not to have clamp marks on the leather. Or I use a piece of thin scrap leather with the paper clamp so clamp marks don't show up in visible areas. I hope this helps a bit. HS

G'day, Not exactly sure where to put this. A while ago, I restored the canvas ( or loom state as it was ) on an old haybinder. Just put in ' vintage hay binder' in the search engine thingy top right to give you an idea of what I'm on about. While all the costs etc. were covered, I still have a lot of 12 oz loom state left over. Its too thick for linings, so I was thinking of making shoulder bags, and various other bags, perhaps combined with leather trim in some way. I have tried the good ol' google, but not a lot came up. I was also thinking of utilising some leather bag patterns and adapting them to use with '12 oz state'. I'll try experimenting with some off cuts to see if it will take a dye. Can't see why it shouldn't . Some other pattern ideas would be really helpful. thanks HS

Thanks Gary, I've got it. What a beautiful find that is. Thanks heaps.

G'day again, Update. I have since received further advice from someone that has restored more than one of these military saddles. As theres some slight movement ( looseness) on the wood panels, it will best to completely separate the wood from the metal arches . Any movement is not good, especially if it is to be used. If it was just to be a display piece, it wouldn't be an issue. I'd like this saddle to be a useable display piece. So the rivets are to be drilled out, not ground down, to avoid any damage to the metal. Also, that way I can see if theres any damage to the rivet holes. If theres movement, thats because A- the hole is worn or B- the wood has rotted slightly. ( or both). Either way, the wood can then be repaired. The replacing of the rivets is now not an issue. Although I have some of the original leather components, that I may be able to take templates from, I do have some cutting patterns on the way, just in case the originals have shrunk. The person I spoke to, has been really helpful in just about every aspect of the restoration from start to finish, he's even happy to send me bits and pieces that are hard to find elsewhere, and we are now in regular contact. I feel like I've made a new friend. Unfortunately , some saddlers that I tried to contact previously , are not so forthcoming with info, not even a reply at all. I have encountered that before. In one respect I can fully understand that they're only protecting their craft and/or trade, but I'm a person that likes to share & pass on info with those that are willing to learn the art & skills and indeed the joy of working with leather. But anyway, I am making progress, albeit a bit slow, but its progress none-the-less. All the best, HS

G'day, I am able to answer my own question now. I received my first piece of advice...yey. basically, 'unless I know a blacksmith ( which I don't) keep the wood attached. ' Theres no smithies in my town, or the next or the next after that . The rivets need to be forged. Anything else will lessen its value and authenticity. And another good point, I'm not sure the wood will be able to withstand all the hammering & pounding of a smithies hammer, not today. The wood stays on. I can now start the restore process. HS

G'Day, I am just about to embark on the restoration of a WW1 Military saddle. Its a UP .( universal pattern) . I'll put some picks up. This saddle was given to me by a local in my town ( in the central wheatbelt Western Australia). He bought ( as is ) it at a market and he put it in his shed, where it remained for 40 years and its in pretty bad shape. But these days, his health and his sight is slowly getting the better of him. I don't make saddles, so this is my first, and indeed, it would be great if I can get it restored before his health worsens. I'll be full of questions from here on. Before I start grinding the old forged (?) rivets off ,that hold the wood to the metal, is there a suitable ( acceptable) replacment? Or do I have to have new forged rivets made? The webbing, seatbelt webbing is not suitable ( so I've read) . So what type , and how to strain it. As you will see from the pics, the wood is in reasonable condition all except a small split where a rivet goes in, and some insect damage. I know a local wood worker that can help on that one. The leather components are beyond redemption , you can see those in the background of the last pic., they've shrunk and are mis-shapen.. So trying to find cutting patterns may be a challenge. Any info that you can provide will be very heplful, and very much appreciated. All the best HS

G'day and thank you for your reply Knowing the owners of the museum, I would think that they would want them be a workable show piece, but not to use in actual smithing. But you're right about keeping the patina , too much 'love' is not always a good thing. Keeping the original nails was my line of thinking as well. I'm sure I have some old tools, or some scrap metal...somewhere, that I don't mind modifying for the job. Thank you very much HS

G'day, I may have a future task of restoring some blacksmith bellows.It will be my first set of black smith bellows, if I get the job. I hope I do, as my profile does state 'challenging projects' . I have done fire place bellows before , but this is way WAY different. I don't have any pics to show you ( yet). I have seen them. They are approx 100 years old, and the leather is in pretty poor shape. They are in a local vintage machinery museum...and in a tight place to remove, so a few weeks advance notice is required, if all goes ahead. I have only attached a sample pic. to give you some idea. Has anyone restored and/or replaced the leather/s on blacksmith bellows? The first thing I thought of doing, is take as many pics as possible from every angle before I even start, not just for a 'before, during & after' diary, but most importantly , as a reference to make sure everything goes back as it should. No need to take apart all the wood or the nozzle, as I am only replacing the leather. But no doubt I will clean up the wood, sand down, stain or oil etc. give it a spruce up. But any other advice, helpful hints tips etc. would be greatly appreciated , especially the removal of all the those domed nails. Keep & clean and re-use? If I do get the job, it will be a good learning experience for me, and perhaps a 'step back in time' to see how they are constructed. I also hope to find a makers mark. Thanks heaps HS

G'Day again, Just when I thought I'd found a product to replace 'Neatlac' , I ordered some, only to be told that it can't shipped by air to my state ( to Western Australia) from N.S.W because its highly flammable. It could come by road, but the freight will far exceed the cost of the product. O'h well, back to square one, but I'm open to suggestions. I'll have a look around at other laquers , that are not meant for leather. Maybe I'll get lucky . HS

G"day, Yes, I agree too, charge him for any alterations. If he wants a new one made, fine, but so long as he's prepared to pay. He'll end up with two bags instead of one. You've done nothing wrong . HS

G'day Tanda4, I now use the method that 'dirtclod' suggested, have been for a while now. I also do any bending, on belts or dog collars, while the leather is still in a damp-ish state, before it completely dries. Skiving also helps. HS

G'Day, No doubt you've had a read the post, titled " Copyright Infringement" ? Its quite informative. Its a bit of a grey area. But I agree with 'Veedub 3' . Err on the side of caution. Hope this helps HS