Handstitched

G'day, Everything I know about leather is all self taught. Unfortunately, there are no places around here ( Central Wheatbelt , Western Australia) for me to go to if I get stuck or want to learn something different to what I already do. There are places in the eastern states, but some classes are expensive, + travel costs. There is no-one to teach me how make or repair saddles. So, like everything else , I will just have to figure it out by myself. But some 'hands on instruction' would be a great help though. I can do some repairs on saddles....now , but I still have so much to learn . The internet has been a great learning tool with various 'How to...' videos and tutorials etc. This very web site has also been great. Its helped me on many occasions. Now, I am more than happy to pass on what I've taught myself over the years to others ., even if my technique is 'not the norm' or totally different to someone elses technique. Its the end result that matters. Best Wishes for the future. HS

G'day, Not even two weeks into my leather crafting journey over 11 years ago. I had my fingers juuuuust a tad over the edge of the ruler, *cut the leather* and I take the skin of the very tips on 2 of my fingers right off. No blood thankfully . The cut in the leather was nice and straight.........and so were the tips of my fingers That WAS close !! I learnt REAL quick after that. If anything, I just can't seem to stop piercing my fingers while hand stitching Perhaps I should go into body piercing too eh? " Hold still , this won't hurt a bit .....honest !? " HS

G'day, The thin leathers I can roll up into smaller rolls, but obviously the thicker leathers are carefully rolled up 'loosely' to avoid any creasing and tied up with some thonging and stored under my workbench away from sunlight. HS

G'day, When I need to glue leather together, I use contact adhesive,. I use Q tips, or ear buds, cottons tips, whatever you call them over there, mainly on smaller items. Its more precise . That way it reduces the risk of getting glue in all the wrong places. And the tips are cheap & disposable. And where necessary , I use paper clamps, (appropiate sizes), , but in areas that are going to be hidden or stitched etc. as not to have clamp marks on the leather. Or I use a piece of thin scrap leather with the paper clamp so clamp marks don't show up in visible areas. I hope this helps a bit. HS

G'day, Not exactly sure where to put this. A while ago, I restored the canvas ( or loom state as it was ) on an old haybinder. Just put in ' vintage hay binder' in the search engine thingy top right to give you an idea of what I'm on about. While all the costs etc. were covered, I still have a lot of 12 oz loom state left over. Its too thick for linings, so I was thinking of making shoulder bags, and various other bags, perhaps combined with leather trim in some way. I have tried the good ol' google, but not a lot came up. I was also thinking of utilising some leather bag patterns and adapting them to use with '12 oz state'. I'll try experimenting with some off cuts to see if it will take a dye. Can't see why it shouldn't . Some other pattern ideas would be really helpful. thanks HS

Thanks Gary, I've got it. What a beautiful find that is. Thanks heaps.

G'day again, Update. I have since received further advice from someone that has restored more than one of these military saddles. As theres some slight movement ( looseness) on the wood panels, it will best to completely separate the wood from the metal arches . Any movement is not good, especially if it is to be used. If it was just to be a display piece, it wouldn't be an issue. I'd like this saddle to be a useable display piece. So the rivets are to be drilled out, not ground down, to avoid any damage to the metal. Also, that way I can see if theres any damage to the rivet holes. If theres movement, thats because A- the hole is worn or B- the wood has rotted slightly. ( or both). Either way, the wood can then be repaired. The replacing of the rivets is now not an issue. Although I have some of the original leather components, that I may be able to take templates from, I do have some cutting patterns on the way, just in case the originals have shrunk. The person I spoke to, has been really helpful in just about every aspect of the restoration from start to finish, he's even happy to send me bits and pieces that are hard to find elsewhere, and we are now in regular contact. I feel like I've made a new friend. Unfortunately , some saddlers that I tried to contact previously , are not so forthcoming with info, not even a reply at all. I have encountered that before. In one respect I can fully understand that they're only protecting their craft and/or trade, but I'm a person that likes to share & pass on info with those that are willing to learn the art & skills and indeed the joy of working with leather. But anyway, I am making progress, albeit a bit slow, but its progress none-the-less. All the best, HS

G'day, I am able to answer my own question now. I received my first piece of advice...yey. basically, 'unless I know a blacksmith ( which I don't) keep the wood attached. ' Theres no smithies in my town, or the next or the next after that . The rivets need to be forged. Anything else will lessen its value and authenticity. And another good point, I'm not sure the wood will be able to withstand all the hammering & pounding of a smithies hammer, not today. The wood stays on. I can now start the restore process. HS

G'Day, I am just about to embark on the restoration of a WW1 Military saddle. Its a UP .( universal pattern) . I'll put some picks up. This saddle was given to me by a local in my town ( in the central wheatbelt Western Australia). He bought ( as is ) it at a market and he put it in his shed, where it remained for 40 years and its in pretty bad shape. But these days, his health and his sight is slowly getting the better of him. I don't make saddles, so this is my first, and indeed, it would be great if I can get it restored before his health worsens. I'll be full of questions from here on. Before I start grinding the old forged (?) rivets off ,that hold the wood to the metal, is there a suitable ( acceptable) replacment? Or do I have to have new forged rivets made? The webbing, seatbelt webbing is not suitable ( so I've read) . So what type , and how to strain it. As you will see from the pics, the wood is in reasonable condition all except a small split where a rivet goes in, and some insect damage. I know a local wood worker that can help on that one. The leather components are beyond redemption , you can see those in the background of the last pic., they've shrunk and are mis-shapen.. So trying to find cutting patterns may be a challenge. Any info that you can provide will be very heplful, and very much appreciated. All the best HS

G'day and thank you for your reply Knowing the owners of the museum, I would think that they would want them be a workable show piece, but not to use in actual smithing. But you're right about keeping the patina , too much 'love' is not always a good thing. Keeping the original nails was my line of thinking as well. I'm sure I have some old tools, or some scrap metal...somewhere, that I don't mind modifying for the job. Thank you very much HS

G'day, I may have a future task of restoring some blacksmith bellows.It will be my first set of black smith bellows, if I get the job. I hope I do, as my profile does state 'challenging projects' . I have done fire place bellows before , but this is way WAY different. I don't have any pics to show you ( yet). I have seen them. They are approx 100 years old, and the leather is in pretty poor shape. They are in a local vintage machinery museum...and in a tight place to remove, so a few weeks advance notice is required, if all goes ahead. I have only attached a sample pic. to give you some idea. Has anyone restored and/or replaced the leather/s on blacksmith bellows? The first thing I thought of doing, is take as many pics as possible from every angle before I even start, not just for a 'before, during & after' diary, but most importantly , as a reference to make sure everything goes back as it should. No need to take apart all the wood or the nozzle, as I am only replacing the leather. But no doubt I will clean up the wood, sand down, stain or oil etc. give it a spruce up. But any other advice, helpful hints tips etc. would be greatly appreciated , especially the removal of all the those domed nails. Keep & clean and re-use? If I do get the job, it will be a good learning experience for me, and perhaps a 'step back in time' to see how they are constructed. I also hope to find a makers mark. Thanks heaps HS

G'Day again, Just when I thought I'd found a product to replace 'Neatlac' , I ordered some, only to be told that it can't shipped by air to my state ( to Western Australia) from N.S.W because its highly flammable. It could come by road, but the freight will far exceed the cost of the product. O'h well, back to square one, but I'm open to suggestions. I'll have a look around at other laquers , that are not meant for leather. Maybe I'll get lucky . HS

G"day, Yes, I agree too, charge him for any alterations. If he wants a new one made, fine, but so long as he's prepared to pay. He'll end up with two bags instead of one. You've done nothing wrong . HS

G'day Tanda4, I now use the method that 'dirtclod' suggested, have been for a while now. I also do any bending, on belts or dog collars, while the leather is still in a damp-ish state, before it completely dries. Skiving also helps. HS

G'Day, No doubt you've had a read the post, titled " Copyright Infringement" ? Its quite informative. Its a bit of a grey area. But I agree with 'Veedub 3' . Err on the side of caution. Hope this helps HS

G'day again, After much searching, I have finally found a product that is as close to 'Neat-Lac' as I will get, here in Australia ( according to the info I received) . Its one of my own suppliers. I should have looked there first eh? Duh!! But it is still as flammable, so it will have to come by road, not by air. Approx 2 weeks, which is better than none at all. http://www.birdsall-leather.com.au/DLL500w/Leather-Lacquer-500Ml/pd.php I will order a 1 ltr tin ( or two) , put some into a spray gun ( with a dash of thinner), and spray the backs of the hides with two coats to be sure, so I don't have to seal each and every item/project I make....one at a time. Hope this helps any other Aussie leatherworkers that are used to using 'Neat-Lac', and are having difficulty finding an ( Aussie) substitute. All the best, HS

G'day, thank you for your reply. After messing around for a good ( frustrating) hour or more today, the only thing that seemed to work is 'Neat-Lac' . I used it very sparingly as I don't have very much left , ( I've been making it 'stretch' by adding a little bit of solvent). But anyway, it seemed to work. But, I have 5 of these Buffalo hides, certainly not enough Neat-Lac' to seal the lot. I let it dry completely, rub the back of the belt with a cloth...nothing, no residue. I add a bit of moisture ( with a spray bottle) to 'simulate' sweat, and so far, I haven't seen any residue come out on the cloth. Tandy's here in Oz, no longer supply 'Neat-Lac' , and I'm having difficulty finding a subsitute. I don't use a lot of 'Neat-Lac', but when I do , I always seem to have a good result....so I would like to get some more,... of a similar product 'Clear-Lac' seems to be a good subsitute from what I've read on LW.Net, but suppliers in the US won't ship it O/S ( Australia) as it is flamable. I have yet to find any Australian suppliers HS

G'day, At the beginning of the year, I bought about 5 sides of 5mm drum dyed ( black) Buffalo hide for heavy belts & dog collars etc. I'm not sure which part of the globe that they actually came from, but they were a 'new year special offer ' from a regular supplier in Melbourne Aust. They certainly made some beautiful 1st grade belts, dog collars etc. , that was until a customer asked for a refund at one of my regular markets today. The dye came out on his white dog, he was not happy. I tried giving him a different ( cow hide) collar, which he didn't want, so in the end I had no choice but to give him a refund. ( under Aust. consumer law) . It was obvious that the hides were not sealed. So, I took off all the Buffalo hide belts & collars from my rack, went into my workshop tonight. I sealed them...BUT .... black residue kept on coming off on the polishing cloth. No matter how many coats of sealer I put on ( I tried chemical & water based ), black residue still came off. All was well when the sealer was dry, BUT....with just a tiny bit of moisture ( ie simulated sweat), black residue came out on the cloth. I tried oiling them ( just as I have with harness cowhide leather without any problems at all) , but still no joy. No matter what I try, I keep getting this black residue on the cloth. I can't have black dye coming out onto a customers clothing.....or their dogs. Any suggestions?? Thanks HS

G'day, I have an early USM GSB-2 20T cutting press just sitting in my workshop. Quite an old machine, but fully operational, but I haven't used it...yet. Its only been sitting there for about 5 years . Like the one in the pic, but nowhere near as nice looking. The original price was $7,250 aud. I bought it for $800 aud from a former leatherworker. And only $30 bucks to transport it. I also paid around $1000aud for a stack of assorted cutters of different shapes etc. Quite a bargain. BUT, It needs 3 phase power, and where live in the central wheatbelt of Western Australia ( the bush) theres no 3 ph. power or infrastructure, so I would need to get a hefty 9-11KVA 3ph generator to start it, due to the size/weight of the flywheel & oil pump attached to the motor.Once started, it would only need half that. Depending on what sort you buy, this particular machine would need 55ltrs of oil ( about 12 gal. in your measurement) for an oil change. When I bought it, the seller advised me to keep it serviced regularly ( depending on use). He also suggested that each and everytime I turn it on "put a few dollars into a tin" to go towards servicing ( or repairs) . Mine is an older machine, but a newer machine may not need as much attention. (?) Just do some number crunching, work out the economics, and benefits etc. before purchasing. HS

G'Day, I have finally found out when my machine was made. From the reply from Seiko. Quote: "Dear ***** Thank you for your contact to us. Model STW-28-B Serial number WS 6611007 It was produced in 1966. We do not have any more information because it is the too old machine. Best Regards Yuzo KURA Seiko Sewing Machines HA!!! I WAS right The '66' is the date of manufacture. I'm happy now HS

G'day again, I'm getting warmer. I did find that pic.(Number 002). I identified that machine as soon as I saw it. The other is the accompanying pic in the same article. Both are from 'The Craftsman' Vol. 12 # 5 dated 'July-August 1968. The last pic is my Seiko machine taken from a similar angle. Look familiar? The article is about a company called 'Cal-Leather' run by a gent Mr Archie Frischling, and making leather highway patrol jackets Unfortunately , theres nothing in the article that mentions the name of the machines used. They could also be Consew Machines But I'll try to contact Cal-Leather to get some more info. HS

G'day darren, and thank you for your reply. I think contacting Seiko will be the next 'port of call'. I always post any queries on here first. I do have a collection of Leather Craftsman magazines dating back to 60's, and in one of the magazines, theres a pic of someone making leather police jackets on one of these machines. The machine in the pic is pretty much identical to mine. Thats what made me think that these machines were made in or around the 60's . I'll try to find that pic, and put it up, thats if I can remember what volume it was, so it may take a while, as theres so many. thank you once again HS

G'day, I have already tried the search function on here for this info, and google, no luck. I would like to know how old my machine is. No doubt a common question for many early machine owners. The machine I use for horse rug repairs, and medium weight leathers, canvases etc. is a ' Seiko STW- 28B. Serial # is : WS-6611007. That number could also read as: 7/11/66?? ( 7th July 1966 ????) But I could be totally wrong It would be great to know how old it is , or approx when it , or approx when they were first was manufactured? It was originally a twin needle machine, but I only use one needle , serviced regularly, mainly a good clean & thorough oiling. Adjustments are rarely made. And, ( touchwood) it works perfectly. Although a tad fast at times, but thats easily remedied with a change of pulley ( a 'round to it ' job ) . But it really is a great and strong machine. Thanks for any help HS

G'day Beautiful peeps, I had yet again had the honourable task of being a leatherwork Judge at a different show. Only this time slightly closer to home. Only 2 hours drive each way instead of 3+ And, pretty much the same as before. No whips. And..... what was also disappointing, and perhaps a bit frustrating, that apart from the exhibit numbers being way less than the previous show, they were also the same exhibits as the other show. I recognised them the very second I walked in. All but one. But by the same / regular exhibitor. I could tell by the style , pattern and braiding, beautifully made , but only the colours were different. My heart sank!!! Hardly a challenge for this newby Judge eh? I nearly disqualified the lot!!! ( but one) . I had to check with the Stewards regarding Judging the same exhibits twice, but at two different shows. It also lets the Stewards know I'm on the ball. The rules should really be almost 'universal', and the exhibits should not have been shown IMO , but on this occasion the Stewards allowed it. Apart from the fact, there'd be nothing left to exhibit. So I took a deep breath, pretended I was Sergeant Schultz ( " I know no-thing" ) and continued on. O'h well, I just pretty much gave the same placings and comments as before. While I was more than happy to Judge, I did go home feeling quite dissapointed. But I do hope there are more and / or new exhibitors next time, it was also a great learning experience for me. All the best, HS