dbusarow

Scott, Good looking rigs from what I can see. But you need to put up some bigger photos for a critique. These photos are too small to see any detail. Dan

Congratulations Lobo. How about posting a picture of the new place? And what's your website's URL? Dan

My EDC holster is one I built about 4 months ago and used vinagaroon on. I've worn it almost every day for those 4 months. I do have a Glock in it, not a blued 1911, but no odd effects at all. I also have one for a blued Les Baer custom but that gun doesn't spend a lot of time in a holster, just range time. It does get used and I'm not concerned that the vinagaroon is going to eat the finish (on my prettiest most expensive gun). Dan

woolfe, Any chance of you making J-hook versions? I really do not like that style clip, but I'd be happy to order J-hook style if you were minded to make some. ETA: My wife couldn't handle me getting into a new hobby (kydex molding) Dan

Steve, These two quotes made me laugh out loud. I can't figure out what type of situation they'd work in though. Any suggestions? I really want to try them out some time Dan

I've got some Hermann Oak 6/7 and I'm going to try a 2 layer belt made from that. I ordered from Weaver and asked for moss back, which they don't carry, but it appears that they split it down to 6oz for me. The flesh side is very smooth and the thickness seems very consistent. Not looking forward to 6 feet of hand stitching though Dan

Sandpaper works fine. I start with 150, then 220, then 320. I think some of the true artists here go up to 600 or higher. Depending on how much you need to remove you may also want to consider careful use of a blade. When making holsters I clamp the two pieces in a wood working vise and then use a bare utility knife blade as a draw knife to get the edges exactly the same size. Then use the sandpaper for final clean up. Hold the blade between your thumb and index fingers, one pair of fingers on each side of the piece, and come in at a very shallow angle, almost parallel to the line you are trying to clean up. Take it slow at first but I picked up the technique pretty quickly. Dan

Nice work indeed! Dan

Neat design. Thanks for sharing Lobo. Dan

I just got a side of HO 12+ oz old world harness leather. It's mostly 14/15 oz with some spots over 16 oz. I got it for reins and other tack strap goods. But while I was looking at it I thought it would make a great gun belt. It's flat beautiful just the way it comes and should be heavy enough to hold up any gun I'll be pacing daily. So my question is, is this a good idea? I have to wonder if there's a downside to just using a single strap of heavy leather vs two layers of 8 oz veg tan? Just looking for your opinions. I already made a belt for myself and it is really comfortable but if this was such a good idea I don't think I'd see so many 2 layer belts. Thanks, Dan

I had the same thought. But it was conchos and by carr52 http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=6606 Not sure why the image doesn't show right but the description will make sense. If a ranger style is OK this might be the ticket for you. Dan

Take a look at this one from Wilson The 3 screws on the back are there only to attach the belt loops to what is a pouch style holster. There is also a tension screw in the front under the trigger guard. The main feature of the holster is that the front is cut very low so that the entire ejection port is exposed. When the barrel gets to that point you can start rotating it onto the target. I have 2 and they make great competition holsters. And a decent open carry holster if you aren't being too active. It sticks out too far for concealed carry but that's an advantage for competition. Back to the OP's question. This is a really simple design with a couple of twists. It's basically just a pouch holster, use the file folder pattern method to create the pattern for the holster itself. Not absolutely needed but my Wilsons and by the sound of it the Chapmans, have an inner stiffening material. The Wilsons use a plastic sheet and it's plenty strong. I wouldn't mess with metal. And then to contain the stiffener and cover the T-nuts for the rear screws you need to line it. Cut a small piece of leather for the belt slots (Wilson style) or do an Askins style belt loop (Chapman style) and you're done. Dan

Lobo, I figured that these belt loops would make it more comfortable. I wear a pancake almost every day and the only thing I'd like to change is that little lump digging into my hip bone at the end of the day. I wear IWB at 1 oclock for church and other occasions where I'll be in company and won't be wearing a jacket; a sweater or western style vest covers just fine. Works well and it's not too uncomfortable. But you won't find me riding a horse with an IWB holster on Oh man, that's got to be like a holy grail. Good luck on that one, looking forward to seeing it. Dan

Really nice Lobo. Have you found that your new OWB design works as well as a traditional pancake with respect to automatically tensioning the gun? I can see where eliminating the little bit of leather on the inside of the belt would make it even more comfortable. Guess I'll have to make one and try it out myself Thanks, Dan

Just waiting for my recipient to send me his address and then it's off too. Dan

Randy, it looks to me like the bottom half of the horn cap is missing so there's nothing to sew the top half to. Is that correct twofour878? Dan

My opinion is that you wouldn't even notice a thin piece of metal (say 20ga or thinner) between two layers of 7/8 so you may as well put it in there. It can't hurt and it might help. I haven't built a thumb break holster though so accept this advice with a grain of salt. Dan

Guilty as charged I'll start using the maul. Dan

I think the single tube punch is what I really meant. Just a simple one size hole punch. So the 5, 6, 7 and 8 go on my order. For the bag punches, where I really want to only get the ones I'll use , is the 3/4 what you would use for something like a bridle buckle? I'm not planning on building any saddles so I don't think I'll need the 1 1/8 or 2". Thanks! Dan

Russ, I've got the large set in that style. It, and the rotary punch I'm using for smaller holes are what I'd like to replace. The handle on mine is already mushroomong and I really haven't punched that many holes with it. Thanks for the suggestion though. Dan

Thank you sir. What do you use for the buckle slots on your straps? Is there a "standard" that says e.g. for a 1/2" buckle use a X" slot? Dan

If it's like the double sealed metal containers I've dealt with, punch an old scratch awl into the cap and pry it out with the awl. They actually come out pretty easily once you've punched it and have the leverage. Don't be gingerly either, give the awl handle a good whack! Dan

I'm going to order some bag and drive punches for holster and belt making and was hoping to get recommendations on the best sizes to order. If I had more money I'd just get one of each but with a limited budget what sizes would you guys recommend? The punches I'm thinking of are bag punches for holster belt slots (just 1 1/2" belt for now) and a 1 1/2" belt buckle tongue slot. Drive punches for Chicago screws and snaps for the belt. And throw in bag and drive punches for the same holes on horse tack just for fun! Thanks for your help. Dan

Welcome aboard Justin. I'm just over the hill from you near Silver Star. Dan

I'm using an Osborne awl with the CS042-1 1/2 awl blade. I stab it through all the way. All the same size, none seem too big. This is at 6 spi. If you are going for finer stitches this may not work. I'm still a beginner so take this with a grain of salt. Dan