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dbusarow

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Everything posted by dbusarow

  1. I'm in the same spot as the original poster and even picked mostly the same machines, GA5, Artisan 3000 or Cobra 3. I was leaning toward the Cobra. Now with everyone saying go Cobra 4 I'm wondering if maybe the Artisan 4000 might be better. ?? A 4000 is close to the price of the Cobra 3 but gives the extra throat depth. When I first got into leather a little over 18 months ago an Artisan 3000 or 4000 was the holy grail for a small shop. Has Artisan support fallen so badly (since Steve left to start Cobra) that they aren't in the game anymore? Just curious, and ready to save a few hundred dollars if I can Thanks, Dan
  2. For the style I posted pictures of I do those in heavy harness leather skived down to around 8/10 or so. Bridle leather will work just fine. Dan
  3. I'll go further than electrathon. Don't do it. The felt will not only attract dust but also moisture. Even a safe queen would not be safe in such a thing. Dan
  4. I don't know what you call it but here are some pictures of one taken apart and then going back together slowly. Dan
  5. Nice. Are the longhorns part of their logo or is that a special touch you added? I like it. Dan
  6. Josh, Vary nice work. Well thought out design too. I think I need to add a sheath to my tanker rig now Thanks, Dan
  7. "Promise more than you can deliver, then deliver more than you promised." Now that is a slogan to live by. Dan
  8. Must be luck of the draw then. I got one several months ago and all it needs is a stropping every so often. I love mine. Dan
  9. I got stiffed on the last one but I'm willing to give it a go again anyway. Dan
  10. Thanks, Boise Foundry is exactly what I was looking for. Ooh, brass oxbows too! http://www.boisefoundry.com/saddlecatalog.htm Dan
  11. My wife has a Specialized endurance saddle that she ordered without a horn. She's no decided that she would like a horn and I think I could probably manage installing it and recovering the swells. I hope!! The swells have a kind of Wade ish contour. Can anyone suggest a source for a screw mount horn? Here's a picture of the saddle Thanks, Dan
  12. For interiors I've started using the glycerine saddle soap bars. Dampen the flesh side lightly then use the glycerine bar as a slicker. Tool and conditioner in one. I really like the result. Exterior I gave up on resolene the first holster I put it on. Like you say I thought it made my beautiful (well passable) leather look like plastic. Still searching but Bag Kote is what I'm using now. Dan
  13. I figured preventing dye rub off was the motivation, but the result goes beyond that. That is just plain beautiful. Dan
  14. Bruce, Any chance of getting a shot of the backside of this holster? I'm real curious about the natural back/black front combo. Thanks, Dan
  15. What are the colors REALLY like? I have to admit I'm partial to the green and yellow look myself. Dan
  16. I guess that means you did a really good job. Looks like it from here too. Always good to make the spouse happy. Dan
  17. Welcome, from another Montana newby. I like how your website says you ship to Canada, you can probably throw packages over the border from your shop! We lived in Malta until I was 5, now I'm down south in sunny Whitehall Dan
  18. Go to this thread http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=16609 and scroll down to post 6. Read and then clean up the edges on your holster. It's not too late, in fact you are at about the right stage for the edges of the main seam. Once you get the edges burnished nicely think about the finish. Aside from the boo boo under the trigger guard that's a really nice job. You just need to take care of the details. Dan
  19. Take a look at Wilson Combat. I have 2 of their Practical models I bought many years ago for IDPA. They are great range/competition holsters and are built similar to your description but also have leather on the outside. Kydex between two layers of leather. Wilson's Tactical Assault is built per your description and I have a few mag holders from them built that way. To your question on leather weight. This is just a guess but I have some 2.5-3 oz kip that I held up next to one of my holsters and the lining on the holster is thinner. I'd guess 1.5/2 oz. The outer llayer of leather on my Practical is about the same weight. Outer layer is smooth, inner layer is suede. I think a smooth liner would be nicer, the suede does grab but these holsters do rely on the tension screw for retention so that can be adjusted to som extent. As for bonding I have no idea and kind of doubt Wilson will tell you But it's held up well. And the seams are sewn as well. Dan
  20. Tell us what kind of holster you would like to make. And what gun you want to make it for. That will probably get the advice flowing. Dan
  21. I have 2 of the 142's and 1 145. I only use the 142's now. I bought 1 of each to see which I'd like better and it was no contest as far as I was concerned. But which haft to use has to be a fairly personal choice. The chances of my fingers and palm being the same size as yours is pretty slim. Dan
  22. Looks like the instructor, and YOU, did a good job. That's a very nice first holster. Dan
  23. That's really cool. Thanks rdb. Dan
  24. ant, This one is still available. I'm guessing she would accept an offer in the 750-800 range. You'll need to arrange shipping on top of that. The machine is virtually new and if I worked in that 3/8" range I'd snap it up myself. Dan
  25. I missed this when you first posted it. My loss. Those are some nice looking sheaths. I agree with MADMAX22, the detailing on the belt loop really caught my eye. Dan
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